Montrondo, Sunday 29th June, 2025
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| With our friends on "God's rock" (la peña de Dios) in Montrondo on Friday evening |
Dear all,
Well here we are again at our house in Eladio's village in Montrondo in the north west of Spain where it is far cooler than sweltering Madrid. We are here with my oldest friends, Andy and Amanda but more about that later. First left me rewind to last Sunday.
Last Sunday we woke up to the news that Trump had joined the war between Israel and Iran to destroy all the latter's nuclear bomb advances. That had the world on tenterhooks. What would happen now? One thing is Gaza - awful - but now another war and with Iran. It didn't bode well. Iran retaliated by bombing a US military installation in Qatar after which Trump called for a ceasefire which the other sides violated. None of this looks good and the world is watching with bated breath. What will Trump do next? Hadn't he promised no more wars in his electoral campaign? You can't trust him of course.
Much more benign and entertaining was watching Carlos Alcaraz play in the final at Queen's - the runner up grass court championship before Wimbledon. He played against 23 year old Jiri Lehecka who if he hadn't been plagued by so many injuries would be a higher ranked player. He is in fact an excellent player and gave the Spaniard some trouble but he came through winning 7-5, 6-7, 6-2. We watched the whole match which was nerve wracking and, as always, I only really enjoyed the trophy ceremony. Next comes Wimbledon and I am wondering if Alcaraz can perform a hat trick and win again for the 3rd consecutive year. I hope so.
Later Amanda and I had our last Facetime call before their arrival on Wednesday. We were both so looking forward to their visit. They will be here till 6th July and the idea was to spend most of the time in Montrondo and El Cuetu to get away from the heat and for them to see Eladio's village and enjoy Asturias.
A cheeky group of guests arrived at midnight when the latest time of arrival is 9 or 10 pm. They had booked for 3 but 4 came and I had to sort that out. They were not my favourite guests. Normally I love them all but there always a few bad eggs.
Monday came and it was time to weigh myself. I had dreaded putting on weight after a bit of indulgence during with Sandra and Adele in Santa Pola but I was in for a pleasant surprise. I had lost another 900 grammes and a total of 9.1 kilos. My weight is no longer a state secret my friends (hahha). I know weigh 62.4 kilos and don't have much to lose;perhaps a couple of kilos. I have 6 more weeks of Mounjaro to go which is certainly doing the trick and I recommend it to everyone. That perked me up for the day for sure.
That morning we met Suzy's therapist, with her permission, for the first time and it did us a lot of good. She is progressing very well although she has her days. We are in a far better place than we were a year ago. I came out feeling hopeful for my daughter who wants to take up her career in nutrition again and rekindle relationships with her cousins and some friends - but bit by bit. She is doing well for the moment which makes me hopeful.
It was boiling hot that day as it had been for weeks. I had a hairdresser appointment in Villaviciosa at 3pm the wrong time to be in the street. It was 36ºc and it felt like walking in a sauna. I went to Suzy's hairdresser as Conchi couldn't fit me in. I was astounded to pay 61 euros for dying my roots and cutting my hair vs 15 euros for both with Conchi. I shall not be going back to Suzy's hairdresser but at least I no longer looked like a witch with so much white hair.
On Tuesday I was up at 5.30 am, the day the ceasefire was announced but which was promptly violated by both sides which made Trump cross of course.
I went food shopping with Suzy and of course we also had coffee together. Later Eladio and I met up with Roberto and Mari Carmen who was bringing me my last Mounjaro pen (they all come with 4 injection doses). It was so hot we had to go inside. We were home for a late and light lunch and then had a short siesta. Later we were in touch with our accountant who sent us our income tax returns results and OMG we had a lot to pay which made a big dent in our savings. Airbnb and Booking take their share and then what we are given is taxed quite heavily by the Government damn them.
After a light dinner soon it was time to drive to the airport to pick up Andy and Amanda who were travelling from Bristol and arriving at 9.25 pm. We were there by about 9.45 but they didn't appear until an hour later as their plane was diverted by a storm and they got a bit lost. I went in at one stage to check the announcement boards to make sure their plane had landed which it had. While in the Arrivals Lounge I was shocked to see so many homeless people sleeping there. This has been a huge social issue in Spain and big news. The news is now old but these people continue to make their home there. Many of them apparently work during the day but don't earn enough to pay for lodging. You would think our socialist and communist government could do a better job helping them out. We left home in the storm which immediately cooled the atmosphere which was a relief. Finally our friends were with us and we could drive home. At around 11 pm our time we were showing them their room and feeding them on soup, bread and cheese as they were starving.
I was up at just after 6 am on Wednesday morning while my friends slept. The day was ours for the taking and we had something to look forward to, dinner in Madrid with our friends Gerardo and family at Quënco, the place Eladio and I celebrated our wedding all those years ago. I consider them my Spanish family since I lived with them during my year in Spain as a young student of Spanish from Nottingham University. Gerardo and his sister Irene to whom I taught English in exchange for board and lodgings, were 13 and 11 and I was 21 when we first met. To think they are now 58 and 60 and I am 68 shows how our friendship has lasted nearly a lifetime. Their family were an essential part of our wedding with Irene and her sister Julieta being my bridesmaids and Gerardo driving me to church. They met Amanda who came to visit me in Madrid in 1978 and of course at the wedding so she is also their friend. They have been back to the restaurant many times but we hadn't been very often. Would you believe the owner still remembered me when I made the booking? We were in for a very nostalgic and beautiful reunion where our marriage began in the company of people who meant and mean so much to us.
Amanda and Andy's arrival marked the beginning of a holiday for us both and we were going to have a great time.
Tuesday's storm freshened up the air and it was a lot cooler. Thus we took our friends and Pippa on our hour long walk in the woods which we all loved. It was time for coffee at Alverán when we got back and Suzy joined us which was a pleasure. We came home to find Oli and family already at home and waiting for us for lunch. We had the most delicious and wonderful reunion lunch all together made for us by Tana who is such a blessing in our lives. Here we are around the table on the kitchen patio just enjoying being together as well as the food. I love it when my dearest English friends come to visit - it makes me go all British again hahahaha.
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| Family lunch with both girls, Miguel, Elliot and Juliet. |
We all convened to the pool later but we oldies did not join Oli and family in the pool. That must be a sign of our age. We were all rather impressed with how well 5 year old Elliot swims under his father's keen supervision. Miguel is a first class swimmer so he couldn't have a better teacher.
At around 7 pm we set off for Madrid leaving the car at the local Metro station and taking the train to Cuzco, one stop away from the Real Madrid stadium. We were soon at Quenco and arrived before our friends. We were led to our table on the small but lovely terrace I remember so well. It was like stepping back into the past. We spoke about the vicar from England who married us, Brandon Jackson who was an important figure in our family. We Googled him to see his age as I couldn't remember and were devastated to read he had died in 2023 aged 88. He was an essential part of our wedding and it was sad to learn of his death that night when we revisited the venue where we had our wedding party. Andy took some lovely photos of Eladio and I and Amanda before Gerardo and company arrived and I particularly like the two I am reproducing below.
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| Quenco revisited ´- what a happy night. |
Soon Gerardo and his wife Vicky and Irene and her husband Tomás were with us and it was all hugs and chatter and a while before we ordered. I honestly think ours was the happiest table at the restaurant that night. Here are some pics to remember it.
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| Quenco revisited with my best friends and my Spanish family. Oh how I love them all |
A great night was had by all and we were sad to say goodbye but it was getting late.
We were home by midnight and all slept amazingly well, given three of us are dreadful sleepers. Only Eladio always sleeps like a log; lucky him.
I was up at 6.30 on Thursday, the day of our departure to our beloved village, Montrondo, where Eladio was born and where we rebuilt the family house. Amanda had been there before it was restored over 30 years ago but it would be Andy's first time. We told them we were going to the end of the earth in a way as Montrondo is so rural and remote, lying at the end of a road before the mountain range we love so much. Only 10 or 11 people live there all year round although many come back for the holidays, like us. We would be getting away from the heat of Madrid as being so high up and in North West Spain Montrondo always enjoys cooler temperatures.
Before we set off I got a photo of Andy and Amanda having breakfast on the kitchen patio.
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| Andy and Amanda having breakfast on our kitchen patio before we set off for Montrondo |
As we set off we were all looking forward to our traditional pit stop at Palacio de Bornos in Rueda, a village in the province of Valladolid and famous for its delicious white wine. We would drink the wine accompanied by local ham, cheese and bread as well as chocolate which would serve as our lunch that day. We got there on the stroke of 12 midday which was very early for a Spanish lunch but we didn't care. Being Andy's first time there, I arranged some wine tasting for him which must have been one of the highlights of his day.
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| Wine tasting in Rueda |
And here we all are around the table enjoying the food and wine. Palacio de Bornos is one of many happy places as those of you who read this blog or know me will appreciate.
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| Lunch in Rueda at Palacio de Bornos |
It was a 2 hour drive from there to our village and we arrived at around 3 pm to find it bathed in sunshine and everything green and lush. I love Montrondo at this time of the year.
Soon we were showing our friends the house and their quarters. It always takes a while to settle but when we were finished and after Eladio had got out the outdoor furniture, Amanda and I were playing Ludo (parchis) which I introduced her to when she came to stay in 2022.
I had eaten too much at lunch but everyone was hungry at around 6.30 pm so I served them an early dinner. It doesn't get dark here till 10.45 pm so when they had finished, we suggested a walk around the village for them to see it and get their bearings. The most important building is the church which was built in the 1770's. It was where people dressed up to go on Sunday's, mass being the only event of the week. Eladio was baptised there, took his First Holy Communion there and more importantly it was where he was ordained as a priest aged just 24. Here too we attended his parents' 50th wedding anniversary and latterly their funerals. We went to get the key from Manolita, one of the few people living here all year round and after greeting her walked across the lush fields to the old church. On our way we took some photos which I am happy to share here.
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| Walking round the village and showing our friends the church on our first day here. |
The church is small but beautiful, with its centre piece being the amazing altarpiece Just look.
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| Inside the church |
We also admired the very old pews and confessional boxes from where Eladio often took confession. Andy asked him if he had ever heard anything that shocked him but he said he never did. I wonder.
From the church we went to visit the very Spanish like cemetery where his grandparents and parents are buried in a family niche. If you have ever watched Almodovar's "Volver" where the women are sprucing up the graves in one of the first scenes, you will see just how similar this cemetery is. Spaniards seem to love putting plastic flowers on graves; something which horrifies both Amanda and I but who are we to judge?
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| In the cemetery in Montrondo |
I then invited my friends to climb up to the belfry but only Amanda came up with me. It's quite a place with its huge bells and wonderful views of the village. Here is a photo Amanda took of me which I particularly like.
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| In the Belfry in Montrondo |
I was under strict instruction from Eladio not to even attempt to ring the bells. I wouldn't know how but was tempted. My husband does know how to ring them and often did it in his youth. I explained to Amanda that the tolling of the bells in Spanish village is a true form of communication. Depending on the number of tolls and pace of the ringing, it could mean a death, a birth, marriage, etc, even war. And all the villagers know what each type of ringing means.
From the church and belfry we walked back to return the key to Manolita and then took our friends to the village common, El Campo, and then to the end of the road where the mountains begin. Andy and Amanda are keen bird watchers and were pointing out lots of them, some of the names I had never heard of but then I am not a great fan of birds thanks to Mr. Hitchcock.
It was still early by the time we got back so Andy, Amanda and I played sevens (a card game) until it was time for bed. I could not have been happier in their company and in our lovely village and country house.
I slept quite well although I woke up far too early on Friday morning. Friday was market day in Villablino, the nearest town to here and I always love going. Villablino is a former mining town which was once very rich until the coal mines closed some years ago. My father-in-law, like many people from villages in the area, used to work in the mines and would cycle every day there and back on a torturous mountain road. It must have exhausted him. Thankfully he gave up mining when he married Eladio's mother and took over the family farm.
The 30 minute drive is over a spectacular mountain pass which never fails to impress. Before shopping we had to pick up the family lawn mower that we took last time to be mended. Here is Eladio picking it up.
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| Eladio picking up the lawn mower in Villablino |
By then it was coffee time which we had at Bar Amigas across the road. We sat in the shade as it was so hot. I have never experienced such heat in this area and it was only 27ºc but it felt like 40ºc, And here is a photo to remember the moment.
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| Coffee in Villablino on Friday |
All the bars in the town serve free food with coffee, as you can see on the table. My friends were amazed that the bill for 4 came to only 5 euros!
We duly did our shopping at Gadis, a supermarket where you are spoiled for choice. We then walked to the market but it was so hot, we just wanted to leave. We had lunch that day at Cumbres de Omaña in Senra, some 4km from Montrondo at what I call "the grumpy man's bar", The owner is very unwelcoming but the food they serve is good country fare and the portions are enormous. Being on Mounjaro I found it far too much.
We came home to chill outside in the coolest place here, on the terrace behind our house. Amanda and I played Ludo - or rather the more complicated Spanish version called "parchis". I have always loved this game and passed on my addiction to Amanda. I couldn't have felt happier playing my favourite game in our lovely village in the mountains with my oldest friend.
It is so calming and distracting and I always tell my friends that Rafa Nadal played it before matches. I needed calming down as a crisis was unfolding at home which, thankfully, Olivia dealt with. There is always something.
We went for our walk in the evening when the sun was not so strong. But even so it was very, very warm but not as hot as in Madrid where the temperatures reached 40ºc this weekend. We took our friends on the old path to the next village, Murias. That was the path or track the villagers used before the road was built. There are great views of the village from there so I had to have a photo of my companions to show you.
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| On our evening walk on Friday along the old path to Murias |
The halfway point between Montrondo and Murias is a rock which the locals call "la peña de Dios" and means God's Rock and I would love to know who named it. Every nook and cranny in this area has a name, many of which I have learned over the years since coming for the first time in 1984. We spent a while there trying to get a good photo of the four of us; one of which I have chosen for this week's feature photo. It was a lovely moment and I so enjoyed showing our friends the rock and the path and beautiful surroundings. Here is another one.
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| At God's Rock on the old path to Murias |
The light was excellent for photos so I asked Andy to take a photo of Eladio and I and he took a good one. This is it.
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| Eladio and I on the old path to Murias on our walk on Friday evening |
On our way back we had to take more photos, this time by the Montrondo sign at the entrance to the village. I wonder how many photos I have taken there over the years; the same as at God's Rock, hahaha.
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| A photo here is a must for everyone we bring to Montrondo. |
We came home to have dinner and we were all hungry although my appetite was nowhere near as big as usual thanks to Mounjaro.
The day ended with the three of us; Andy, Amanda and I, playing Sevens again. I felt a bit bad at winning all three games. I don't know how I do it hahahaha.
I had not too bad a night and got up at 6.30 am on
Saturday morning. It was to be even hotter that day meaning we could not go for a walk until the late evening. We had lunch booked at the old prison in Murias, now turned into a restaurant and hotel called
Hotel Rural la Carcel. There was nothing to it but to stay at home and make use of the back garden where there is shade. Amanda and I played Ludo again of course while Andy and Eladio read or turned to their phones. Eladio lay under the shade of the apple trees on one of the very comfortable summer beds. It was such a relaxing scene, I had to have a photo. This is it.
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| Relaxation mode - Eladio under the shade of the apple trees yesterday morning. |
We relaxed until it was time to drive to Murias. Normally we would have walked but it was far too hot. Our friends loved the hotel, both the building and especially the gardens and here we took more photos like the one below of Amanda and myself. |
| Hotel Rural La Cárcel |
Thankfully inside was cool. The dining room was once the prisoners' refectory and Eladio told us stories from his past. Especially interesting was the story of his father being arrested by the Guardia Civil in Franco's times for possessing his father-in-law's revolver and some dynamite for which he nearly got sernt to the prison where we ate yesterday. Thankfully it never happened.
Lunch was good but for my taste the menu was pretty heavy. Eladio and I went for lamb casserole which was disappointingly tough. Below is a rather nice photo of me with my husband.
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| Having lunch in the prison yesterday |
It's quite a good place to eat out but as expensive as Madrid in our opinion. We all concluded that the grumpy man's bar was a better option.
As we left, Andy who is nuts on birds, wanted to see the stork family that lives in its nest above the church in Murias, up close. It was hot but we were interessted too. And here is my husband admiring the storks.
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| The stork family in Murias |
I am not keen on birds myself but love storks. They are such homely and romantic birds apart from being elegant. Besides, they bring babies don't they? Andy used his binoculars and spied a whole family, the couple with its fledglings.
We spent a while there admiring the storks until it was just too hot and we had to go back. Eladio and I went straight to our bedroom for a much needed siesta after the heat and a big lunch. I slept for an hour at least, sleep I really needed. So did Amanda who doesn't get enough either, after which we played ludo. We waited for the heat to recede before we went on our evening walk This time we took our friends along the main road to Murias. Here Amanda took a photo of me by a signpost indicating distances to local places and not such local places - quite a funny signpost really. This is it.
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| On the road to Murias from Montrondo there is an intriguing sign post. |
Even more intriguing were the shadows of our bodies while we walked in the evening sun. Amanda took a video as it was rather a funny moment.
Before we reached Murias we took a turn through a birch tree lined path up the hill and past
the river which takes you to the top of the villages. It's the most beautiful walk I know in the area. The only thing was we were plagued by flies the whole time. Andy said the walk should be called "The Lord of the flies" and he was not wrong. I just love the tree lined path and insisted on yet another photo.
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| On our walk yesterday to the top of the villages above the main road |
The walk would take us all the way to the end of Murias. It is beautiful but the flies were a total nuisance. Only when we reached the village did we get rid of them. Once in the village we took the road back to Montrondo and were glad to see we had done over 12,000 steps that day.
We had a makeshift dinner after which we more or less went straight to bed as we were so tired from our exertions. I slept really well last night totalling 6.5h hours and once again was the first to wake up. And here I am in the silence of the house finishing this week's post. And what a wonderful week it has been. Next week promises to be great too as tomorrow we shall be leaving for Asturias on the coast to stay at our new but house in El Cuetu. It will be far less comfortable than this one but there is a lot more to do in the area. You will hear all about it next Sunday when all good things will have come to an end as they always do.
Meanwhile, let me wish you a happy Sunday,
Cheers all till next week,
Masha
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