Sunday, 17th February, 2024.
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| With Eladio on Valentine's Day in La Granja de San Ildefonso, an hour from Madrid. Visiting the Royal Palace. |
Good morning again friends and readers,
If last week we celebrated my birthday, this week we celebrated Valentine's Day and spent a night at the elegant and comfortable Parador in La Granja de San Ildefonso, about an hour away from home. But before I tell you all about our visit, let me rewind to last Sunday where I last left off.
It was a quiet day, just the two of us and five guests who were not around much, except for the Chinese family who spend nearly all day in the kitchen, Their cuisine is complicated to make and the grandmother seems like a slave to her husband and son's palate and hunger. What must she think when she sees us preparing such different and simpler dishes. She looked on with great interest as I prepared roast suckling lamb with red peppers. If only I could exchange a word with her. But all I know is "ni hao". She is 77 so no doubt remembers life under Mao Zedong. She nodded knowingly when I showed her a vintage bound foot shoe I bought years ago at an antique market in Shanghai where she is from. Her mother may well have had to have her feet bound too. Her son, JZ, took his parents on a 20 day tour of Europe, their first time here and maybe her first time outside China. What must she think? I wish I knew.
That day, the day after the Spanish film about the Andes crash in 1972, won so many prizes at the Spanish Academy awards, I re watched it. This time I knew who all the characters were in the magnificent film, The Society of Snow, as I have now read 2 autobiographies and 1 biography. Have you seen it yet?
Monday was 12th February, my brother George's birthday. He would have turned 69 but sadly died aged just 46 of the worst type of skin cancer, melanoma. It was last week I came across a letter from him to me written 45 years ago in February 1979 which is an absolute treasure.
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| Treasure of a letter from George to me written 45 years ago in 1979 |
He was studying Latin American Studies at Portsmouth Poly and I was on my year in Madrid as part of my degree in Spanish and Portuguese at Nottingham University. You may not know that my dear brother became schizophrenic shortly after graduating although all the signs were there years before. At his funeral I spoke to his psychiatrist who told me boy teenagers who took drugs were easy victims to schizophrenia. It was so unfair as my dear brother was a golden boy, blond, blue eyed, over 6 foot tall, handsome, kind and gentle with an amazing talent for music, languages and sport. He enjoyed the talents but was never able to benefit from them professionally. Women fell at his feet as he was so handsome and the letter is full of the stories of the different women in his life, bless him. In that letter I can see the George I knew before mental illness turned him into a misfit in society. How cruel that must have been for my parents. God bless you George. I have never stopped loving you and if I didn't understand you were ill until the very end, please forgive me. PS. What would you think of the world today I often ask myself.
George was very much on my mind when I went to the hospital that morning to have a small cyst removed surgically from my back. There had been 3 attempts to remove it so in the end I had to have a small operation. The dermatologist assures me it is absolutely benign but even so; it had to go. George didn't pay attention to all the small lesions or marks on his skin so when he finally felt really ill, it was too late. Poor George. He would have laughed to see me all dressed up for surgery though. I took a picture to share. I look ghastly but had to share the moment, hahaha.
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| Dressed up for very minor surgery to remove a tiny but persistent cyst on my back this week |
I wonder what he would think of my increasingly wrinkled face. Last time he saw me I was just 44, so relatively young and pretty.
I was soon home and out again with my husband for a mid morning coffee at Manacor. There we discussed our trip, poring over a map of Europe I found online. But we also spoke about the wood cabin in our garden which is deteriorating and needs complete refurbishment. That or pull it down and replace it. That's when I had the brilliant, or not so brilliant, idea of replacing it with a proper living in cabin to rent on Airbnb. I had said just before if only we had another room in the house I would fill it too. But with over 9 guests the kitchen gets too full.So how about an independent luxury wood cabin for 2 people with everything included? We are now working on the idea. All our best ideas seem to come when we are having our morning coffee I commented to my husband.
From Manacor we went to our bank to pay the awful tax arrears for 2019. I am hoping that is the last of the payments to the Spanish tax agency. All of this was discussed with my friend Amanda during our weekly Skype call that afternoon. I do love sharing my life with her and vice versa.
That night this week's grandparent duty commenced. Eladio had to go and sleep with the kids and I would be there at 7.45 the next day to help him get ready and take them to school.
I was up at 6.30 on Tuesday morning as I need time for my breakfast and shower and reading the headlines before I am talkable to, hahaha. But you probably know that already. I was there by 7,45 with Oli's door key this time. Remember when I had to sit outside for 20 minutes as Eladio didn't hear the door bell a while back?
Elliot was very keen to be on time for school, so much so he made us leave far too early. Here is Eladio with both kids leaving their house.
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| Taking the kids to school on Tuesday morning |
They are very sweet in the morning if a little stubborn, hahahaha. For example Juliet refused to put her coat on as you can see in the picture. We were one of the first to arrive at their school and killed time by taking them to Juliet's play ground which is full of all sorts of fancy tricycles. By 9 they were both in their classes and we were free but exhausted.
Eladio came home to shower and have breakfast while I set up my PC to do some guest related work. I was having problems updating Windows so then spent at least 2h on the phone to a Microsoft customer care agent who spoke to me from Bogota of all places. But she sorted it so the 2h were not spent in vain. I had lots of back office work to do and when all was updated I got a new reservation for out house in Asturias, quite a good one. The place is now fully booked from 20th July to the end of August. Amazing!
Eladio had to spend the night again with the kids. I don't like seeing his empty side of the bed and didn't sleep well myself. I think I managed 5 or so hours and was up again at 6.30 on Wednesday. It was Valentine's Day my friends and we were off to La Granja de San Ildefonso, a beautiful little town near Segovia and near the mountains of Guadarrama. But first we had to take the kids to school. That morning Elliot was sleepy and a little down. He again wanted to be ready well in time for leaving even though there was loads of time. While we were dressing Juliet he nearly fell asleep so I held him in my arms. Juliet joined us and Eladio took this picture. It was a nice moment but OMG I look so old.
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| With my grandchildren on Wednesday morning |
As I lead Elliot into his class, Juliet kissed him but pushed him in too and he burst into tears, poor little boy. I honestly don't know what came over him so took him aside and comforted him as best I could. Olivia later said he smelled of my perfume (Viktor and Rolf Flowerbomb). So I left feeling sorry for him.
We came home to get ready to leave for
La Granja de San Ildefonso not far from Madrid and near to Segovia. Tourists who come to Madrid often include Segovia, Toledo, El Escorial, maybe even Avila and Aranjuez but I think they haven't really discovered this picture postcard town .We were staying at the Parador for one night to celebrate Valentine's day, something we had been looking forward to for a while. The Paradors are state run luxury hotels usually located in historic buildings in towns or places with special appeal. They are a guarantee of quality. There was an article in The Times about them this week so I thought it appropriate to share it
here. We had stayed at the Parador in La Granja in 2011 but I was just as impressed this time as I was then. It's absolutely stunning and so big you can't take a photo so I pinched two online. It was once The Princes' "house", i.e. the sons and daughters of the Spanish monarchs at the time. No wonder.
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| The Parador in La Granja from the outside and inside |
We checked in around 12.30 and were given a warm reception. I had booked the St. Valentine's romantic package which included a meal, breakfast and I think a room upgrade as ours was magnificent. This is it or part of it. There were also some delicious chocolate strawberries awaiting us in the room.
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| Our lovely room at the Parador. |
We would settle in later as we were keen to visit the most important monument of the town, the Royal Palace, before lunch.
We had been before quite a few times but it never disappoints. In the early 18th century it was built by the first Bourbon King of Spain, Philip V, who was the grandson of Louis XIV, the sun king. He modeled it on his grandfather's famous Palace of Versailles. It was Philip V who also made changes to the Royal Palace of Madrid in the style of Versailles. The gardens too resemble the French royal style of the time and they are amazing, especially the fountains which I have never seen working. The Palace itself measures 25.000 m2 and the gardens 360 acres which I gather is even bigger than the French original. At first the palace was meant to be the summer residence of the Spanish court from the 1720's during the reign of the first French king on the Spanish throne. Philip V, whose second wife was the infamous Isabella de Farnesia (Elizabeth Farnese) and with whom he had 7 children. (PD he had 2 surviving sons with his first wife Maria Luisa of Savoy who died very young). When he abdicated in favour of his son, Louis I, he retreated to La Granja. However his son died and the next in line was too young to reign, so Philip V took over again and that is when the Palace became the official court location. The history at the time is fascinating but I won't bore you with it. Just let me show you some of the photos taken that day. We managed to get one together taken by some passersby and that is the one I chose for this week's blog. Here are some more.
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| Visiting the palace and gardens in La Granja de San Ildefonso |
It's funny I am wearing red. Well, that reminded me of the very first time we visited the Granja. It was before we were married in 1981 and I was wearing a red jumper knitted by Eladio's mother. I remember too that Eladio didn't stop taking photos of me that day, like he still does, bless him. Once home, I went and looked for the album and found them but more about that later.
There we were celebrating our love once again. As my dear friend Sandra said, we don't just celebrate it on Valentine's Day but everyday. I think we do or at least we try to. Love has to be tended to and kindled and there has to be time together to celebrate it like this week. Oh how I love my husband.
After walking only a minuscule part of the magnificent gardens we ambled back to the Parador for our Valentine's Day lunch. I didn't take any photos but can tell you it was magnificent too. We both went for suckling pig which meant we wouldn't be hungry for dinner. To top that Eladio also had a first course of the famous bean stew which hails from La Granja.
We then went back to our room where we unpacked. You would have thought that for one night we wouldn't need very much but oh we do. It's not clothes that we needed but all our PCs, phones and related items as well as my morning coffee things. Only when we had set everything up could we sink into the amazing 2 metre bed with its fabulous memory foam mattress. I couldn't sleep so read my book. It's called
The Scarlet Papers by Matthew Richardson and was named The Times' thriller of the year. Set in the Cold war, this spy story is one of the best I have ever read. I finished it that night and that has me wanting to read more books by Matthew Richardson. It was recommended to me by dear friend Adele. Thanks Adele. A great find.
At about 7 pm I invited Eladio to join me at the spa, one of the main reasons I had chosen this Parador. He declined, preferring a bath and shower in our room. So, off I went on my own in the lovely white and fluffy bath robe and slippers provided by the hotel. The spa water circuit was one of the best, especially the giant jacuzzi and the sauna.
I was back in our room an hour or so later and ordered a big glass of red wine for myself which I had with a little salad left over from lunch. That's when we ate the chocolate covered strawberries and they were divine.
We woke feeling splendid and happy and very much looking forward to our breakfast. The Parador buffet breakfasts are famed.
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| Wonderful breakfast at the Parador |
I went for sweet, as always and Eladio for savoury. That's how we are, even different in our taste for food. I piled my plate high and would not be hungry for lunch. Once home it was back to my on and off diet.
Before leaving La Granja we decided to visit the other important building in town, the
Royal Glass Factory. We had never bothered before as glass is not particularly my thing - it was the same in Venice but it was worth the visit.
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| At the Royal Glass factory in San Ildefonso this week |
I could tell you the history of it but would probably bore you. We left at around 11.30 and took the scenic route home past the well known skiing town of Navacerrada which borders with the province of Segovia, both being in the Guadarrama mountain range. I think I might have told you before that Madrid is the highest capital in Europe with the highest peak - Peñalara, measuring 2428m. The town of Navacerrada stands at over 1880m and it is often from there that TV journalists report on snow in the region. There was no sign of it that day. We got out to take pictures like the one below.
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| At Navacerrada in the Guadarrama mountain range in Madrid on our way home from La Granja on Thursday |
I did a bit of shopping before coming home and with time on my hands after unpacking and having lunch I went to find the album where the photos of our visit to Granja would be. It took a while but I found the album and came up trumps. For some reason we have never forgotten that day trip. We visited the palace, inside and out and then went to have a picnic. I even remember using the gas stove as you will see in the set of pictures below. Obviously in those days we could not afford to eat out. But what a find.
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| Visiting La Granja for the first time in 1981 |
1981 was the year I came to live in Spain. We found a flat together and married two years later. I knew when I came to be with Eladio that we would marry. What I could not envisage is how our life would pan out. I could never have known that I would still be in love with him 43 years later or that we would be celebrating Valentine's Day in that same place. We were just 24 and 36 in those pictures. I look serious, I wonder why. I shared them with my friends and Sandra told me I look better now than aged 24 - no way. She says it's because of the blond (fake) hair and lipstick. Whereas my friend Amanda, tells me I have kept my looks (thanks darling) but it is Eladio who has blossomed. I loved this comment from her "I was thinking Eladio has grown into George Clooney". When Eladio saw the photos again after all those years, he told me I looked stunning. Was I? I never noticed and that is the truth because I was so obsessed with my weight.
It's curious now I think of it that we chose to go to the Parador in La Granja for Valentine's Day, one of the first places we visited on our journey of love which began in 1980. I only hope the journey continues for many more years.
It was a lovely break and good to be back.
The house was full of guests. That night 2 young Croatians arrived. The girl, Tonka, is from Rijeka. That town is damned for me as it is where my Aunt and all her family (Gloria, Derek and children, Jacqueline, Michael and Antony) died in that terrible air crash in May 1971 travelling from Gatwick to Rijeka where they were going to spend a holiday on the Island of Krk. But how could I tell that to Tonka. Thankfully she told me she lives in Split which we visited on our road trip. What a wonderful city. We loved Croatia.
That afternoon I had another of my multiple dental appointments with my dentist of more than 30 years, Dr. Garralda. It was to uncover the gum to reveal the screws for 3 implants and cover them with some metal objects upon which he will place a bridge. I left with plenty of time. It was raining and when I came to a zebra crossing I spied a woman with a dog who I thought would cross it. She didn't but the car behind me didn't stop and bumped into me. What a shock he gave me and my neck lurched with the bump. I got out thinking the back of the car would be completely damaged to find hardly any. We have yet to see if if has damaged the camera at the back. The man was very apologetic and obviously hadn't seen me. We filled out an insurance report paper on the bonnet of his car and in the rain. Soon I was in the car and on my way to the dentist. I got there just on time. The procedure was not particularly nice but it went well or so we thought.
I was home around 6 and after telling Eladio about my exploits - mainly the accident, I had some free time before dinner. As usual we were in our bedroom by about 9pm ready to watch the news.
However good the Parador bed was and it was great, there is nothing like our own bed. To think it is the same one we bought when we married in 1983. We have only changed the mattresses which are also memory foam. Pippa was happy to sleep in it that night too after spending the night on the floor in Tana's room.
Friday dawned and we went for a walk - a walk to the nearest cafe. Friday was the day the world learned that Alexei Navalny, the ex leader of the opposition, if that really exists, to Putin in Russia. He was jailed for being the opposition, nothing less and sentenced to 30 years in the worst prison possible in the Artic Circle. We don't know much more. The Russians have not given the body to his family nor will they say where it was. All they say is that it was a sudden death. Putin will never own up will he? Navalny had already been poisoned by him but recovered in Germany. He should never have returned to Russia where he was arrested upon arrival and now he is dead. What an awful story. RIP. You were very brave, too brave but the world will always remember you.
Both Friday and Saturday were quiet. On Saturday we had a man come to explain the installation of solar panels on our roof which many people around here are doing. I'm not sure we'll do it as the initial investment is pretty high and we might not even be here at this house to see the return on investment. I say, let the next owners put them in. In any case it only reduces your electricity bill by half; not that much. I left Eladio and the man for an appointment to have my nails done. I spent nearly an hour falling asleep while the girl at the nail bar did a great job.
The rest of the day was quiet. I actually slept for about 1.5h and then watched the end of the new series on Netflix called One Day. It is marvelous. It's working class meets upper middle class at University with two great characters, one of them of ethnic origin. It's also a story of will they get together finally or not, so called "sexual tension". They meet once a year on 15th July for 20 years and wow it really hooked me and I didn't think it was my thing. Pretty twisted ending though I'm sorry to say. It's based on a huge best seller of the same name so I might be reading that soon too.
That day was not quiet for Oli and the kids. Miguel was stationed in Zaragoza this weekend to do some filming. So off they went to join him which was a great idea. I got some great photos of our sweet grandchildren visiting the TVE van with their father which I have to show to you. I especially love the one of Elliot with the microphone, don't you?
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| Elliot and Juliet with their father Miguel visiting the TVE van on Saturday in Zaragoza. |
I had a funny night. After my short siesta yesterday I woke up with blood in my mouth. One of the gums surrounding one of the implants was bleeding and it would bleed all night. I have a hemorrhage in my mouth and spent most of the night with a guaze pad on. This morning I rang my dentist on his mobile (bless him) and he told me to apply hydrogen peroxide and to come and see him tomorrow. I sincerely hope this doesn't complicate the ongoing treatment.
And today is Sunday, the last day of the week, the Day of the Lord or so they say. And I'm thanking the Lord for all the good things in my life (apart from my "bloody" mouth hahaha).
Next week will be a new week and will not bring much fun or anything to look forward to apart from dental appointments and a bone density test. I can't wait for all this to be over and for us to be on our travels in April. Roll on April I say
Cheers then till next Sunday,
All the best Masha
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