War in Israel. A wonderful girly week in Santa Pola with my daughter Suzy and my soul sisters Adele and Sandra. On the beach, lunch on the island of Tabarca, walk to the lighthouse, trip to Callosa, Algar and Bolulla, Alicante by night, tapas at Nou Manolin, a "mascletà" on the National Day of Spain, visit to Elche, the city of palm trees and other stories.

 Santa Pola, Sunday, 15th October, 2023

With Adele (in blue) and Sandra (in pink) by the port in Santa Pola last Sunday

Good morning friends from Santa Pola. Is the week really over? How can it be? It went so fast. When you are  enjoying life time always flies doesn't it? But we packed lots in and this has been a holiday to remember.

It was also the week Hamas, the Gaza terrorist group, attacked Israel, provoking out and out war. The Israelis never saw it coming and neither did anyone else. Last weekend the terrorists launched their unprecedented attack which started at a rave party where hundreds were killed. More were killed by multiple rocket blasts and the worst of all, almost 150 people were kidnapped from kibbutzum and settlement areas including children and old people. Some of those killed were beheaded. This echoes Nazism I'm afraid and I am with Israel.  Since then the tensions have increased and there is out and out war in Israel which is very destabilising for an area which is  permanent hot pot. It is being likened to Yon Kipur which I remember as a child some 50 years ago.  It is said the attack comes after agreement  talks with Israel and Saudi Arabia and that Gaza is being backed by Iran, a common enemy in the Middle East and everywhere. Otherwise, how could Hamas on its own take on the mighty Israeli Army. Hamas couldn't have done this without help. Now Israel is retaliating, hoping to get the the hostages which I think is mission impossible. Whatever they do, they will be criticised. 

Sandra my friend is of Jewish origin and was appalled. I was too.She remarked that few people on social media were standing up for Israel. I am though and immediately posted "My heart goes out to Israel". I wrote to Kelly, my ex Nokia colleague who is from Tel Aviv. She wrote back to say she was on holiday in Ireland and that it had turned into a nightmare and added "I can't believe what I hear and see it is inhuman and barbaric. My family is OK in Tel Aviv, thank God. Can't wait to be back home with my people and try to contribute to the effort. Those poor, poor, captive families; little children taken whose parents were massacred, youngsters, soldiers, ... Masha please pray for their rescue"

The war hovered over us the whole week but as you know, life goes on and it could not spoil our long planned week together. Sandra and Adele, my bosom friends from Nottingham University where we met in the first year in 1976, arrived the Saturday before last as you will know if you read last week's blog post.

That day we tried to do some shopping but it was Sunday, so not so easy. From the Udine supermarket I drove them to Santa Pola, our nearest town, along the old coastal road which I had to show to them as it is simply gorgeous.

We parked near the castle and went to have coffee and cake in the square. Here are my dear friends at the cafe last Sunday. We had our coffee with a locally made "ensaimada" similar but not the same as brioche. 

Coffee and cake time in Santa Pola last Sunday

We then walked towards the port but got waylaid at a boutique called La Casa where my friends bought lots of clothes. We turned it into a party, laughing and fooling around and started talking to a lovely Spanish woman - a teacher of English from Elche who lives in Murcia. She dressed beautifully and we hit it off immediately. She was just our kind of woman. Sandra and Adele went back twice afterwards. 

Eventually we walked to the port although we came back to the shop (La Casa) where Adele got another dress hahaha. I didn't as I am far too fat. I waited outside on a bench in the shade and a lady from Elche  sat next to me.  When she got up she looked at me and said "oh you are so beautiful, you look like a  a princess. Was your mother a princess?" I as astonished and laughingly said yes. She certainly gave me an up. That is the second lady to comment something similar recently. Thank you ladies you made me feel so much better.

We came home to find Suzy making our lunch again. She is such a darling. It was  a make yourself tuna fish salad after which we all chilled out. The weather was great as it has been the whole time and around 5 pm I took my friends down to the beach. 

We took our chairs down but forgot our towels except for Sandra hahaha. The beach was quite full being a Sunday and bank holiday but not crowded. We made a beeline for the lovely, calm and clean water and then my friends went "walking in the sea". Here they are in the distance. 

The girls "walking in the sea" last Sunday afternoon

When they finally emerged I took them on a long walk to the end of the beach, as far as the rocks. Our apartment is on a cliff above this beach which is why it has such good views. And here they are in one of my favourite places in the world. 

By the rocks at the end of "our beach"

Before heading home we went in again and were determined to come back again , despite our very full programme, hahahaha.

Dinner was "bits and bobs" after 3 showers hahahaha. But first for drinks on the terrace, Protos rosé wine. Here is Sandra on the phone to her Jewish neighbour in Brussels talking about the war. 

Sandra on the terrace last Sunday

We went to bed around 11.30 and I watched more of  The Good Doctor Season 6 until I fell asleep.  I slept quite well and was up on Monday morning at 7.30 am.

That day we were going to the island of Tabarca and I had booked a table for lunch at Casa Gloria in the village part of the island but right by the sea. I wanted my friends to try the Alicante version of paella called "Arroz a banda" - my favourite.

Monday was a regional holiday - the day of Valencia so places were fuller than usual. I have never seen so many people on the ferry which takes 25 minutes from the port of Santa Pola. This is the view approaching it. 

The island of Tabarca

On the catamaran I looked up the history of this islet, the smallest inhabited island in Spain and known for its marine reserve. In 1700 it was known as St. Paul's island as it is said the apostle disembarked there once. It was a refuge for Barbary pirates until the end of the 18th century and a base for raids on the Levante coast. It was once part of the Republic of Genoa until it was conquered by Bey of Tunisia in 1741. However, Charles III of Spain conquered it in 1760. The people of the island spoke Genoese because, according to legend, .a group of Genoese sailors were shipwrecked and settled there. Amazing story right? Today it lives off fishing and tourism. It is a beautifully kept little island, half of which is built up on which comprises the small village. Here are my friends just before we disembarked. 

About to disembark on the island of Tabarca

I have been many times so was my friends' guide for the day. I walked them towards the fortified village and they found every street charming, as did I. 

Just one of the many pretty streets on the Island of Tabarca

We made our way to the end of the village and the island from where you can see Santa Pola. A nice Dutch lady took this photo of us on this pretty Mediterranean tiny island. 

At the far end of the island, the nearest point to Santa Pola

People were swimming everywhere and we wished we had brought or swimming gear. Boats were everywhere as were jet skis and two young jet skiers from further down the coast took another photo of the three of us with the small castle in the background. Everywhere we looked was beautiful with such sharp colours. 

The three of us on the island on Monday

I had booked a table at Casa Gloria in the village, a restaurant we have frequented in the past and where more locals go than tourists. It was once recommended to me by a local and we always head there. I love where it is located, right by the sea and away from the crowds. This is it.

Casa Gloria in Tabarca

We had calamaris followed by the typical "arroz a banda" which were both delicious. Here is our rice dish which we finished. 

Arroz a banda at Casa Gloria in Tabarca

We could have or should have gone for a walk around the island but it was too hot. Instead we went to have an ice cream and then took the first afternoon ferry back which left at 16.15. We headed home feeling a little tired and had a nap, etc until it was time to go out again.

That afternoon I had planned a walk to the lighthouse at the far end of the cliffs where our apartments are located and from where you get great views of the island we had been to in the morning. It's one of my favourite places in the world and I was keen to share it with my girls. Sandra had seen it 10 years ago when she came here but it was a first time experience for dear Adele. 

On the cliffs by the lighthouse this week

It's a bit over an hour to walk there and back and the three of us came returned in need of a shower after all our walking to the lighthouse and on the island. Only then could we put our feet up on the terrace and enjoy a few glasses of wine and some laughs. We always laugh when we are together. 

Bedtime was around 11.30 and I slept well that night. The next day, Tuesday, I was taking my friends to my old stomping ground, Callosa, Algar and Bolulla. It was in Callosa  in 1972 that my mother bought a house for a thousand pounds and my Aunty Masha a house in Bolulla for 500 with a donkey in it. Those were our "Callosa Days" which you can read more about here. That post is about Aunty Masha being laid to rest but it is also about how Spain became part of our lives and how I came to live here. I could never have known in 1972 that I would marry a Spaniard and eventually live here. Those years from 1972 to around the time I got married in 1983 were happy years. We would come every summer and bring friends from around the world. We revelled in rural and poor but beautiful Spain in Franco's time and after he died when progress began and we learned the language. So I was keen to take my friends to "my villages", Callosa and Bolulla, where also my love for Eladio began. We fell in love there in the summer of 1980 and, as you know, the rest is history.

It's a long drive but worth it across the coast. On the way we passed pretty La Nucia but even prettier Polop  where we stopped for photos.

A stop to see the view of Polop from La Nucia

We reached Callosa de Ensarría at around 11.30 in the middle of their "fiestas" called Moors and Christians. Everywhere in the Valencia region the fiestas reflect and relive the history of the reconquering of Spain from the Moors.  Spain was under the Moorish yoke for 800 years until 1492.

Fiestas in Callosa

As I remember every street as if it were yesterday, I took my friends to the ice cream parlour, La Jinonenca which looked as if time had not passed since we first went there. From there I took them to the street called Calle de las Flores where our little town house was located. It looks forlorn and run down today but could be done up marvelously if needed. This is it today. Every time I go back I have to have a photo sitting on the street outside.

Outside our old house in Callosa

But back in the 70's it was a house full of joy. As a family we invited many friends to join us there and our summers seemed wonderful and endless. Those were the days. But time has passed and the memories live on in my head and heart.

As I tried to explain to my friends what our summers were like, I walked them to the old wash house where women used to wash clothes in public. We did too. We also used to sing there as the acoustics were marvelous. This is it today; pretty but a relic of the past.

The old public washing place in Callosa

Walking back to our car we passed the main square where festivities were going on. 

The main square in Callos with the festivities going on

A group of children were dancing and I had to take a video. This is it. As I watched the children I remembered vividly how in this very square Eladio and I watched the village beauty contest in the summer of 1980. That night saw the beginning of our love of each other. It's a night I shall never forget.

From Callosa we drove to my Aunt's village, Bolulla. She bought her house there after one of her Russian students at the University of East Anglia said her boyfriend, Tony, had bought one for a song. That very summer, she and my mother drove all the way from England to buy a house each. Tony was not happy as he wanted to be the only foreigner there. My Aunt started the trend by telling all her friends and on our visit there this week we were told by a young Lithuanian couple that today there are 28 nationalities in Bolulla. Imagine.  That is something amazing for such a small village. It is surrounded by orange groves and other fruit trees which was how the villagers made their living. My Aunt's house today is owned by an English family. I wish I had bought it as I would be very happy to have a little place there. Here are some pictures of our visit.

Bolulla with my friends. I carry this village in my heart

When my brother George, my cousin Sasha and I first arrived as teenagers in the 70's we had no transport and it was not easy to get to Benidorm or Altea unless my Aunt took us or we hitchhiked. So we discovered a place called Algar, 3km from Callosa and 3km from Bolulla. There from the rocky mountains comes a stream which turns into waterfalls and where natural pools are formed. The water is freezing but we didn't care and that is where we swam in the summer. There are bars and restaurants and many a happy time was spent there. So I was keen to take my friends this week. Sandra had been 10 years ago and for Adele it was a new experience. 

First things come first though - i.e. food. We were hungry and got a table by the pool at Casa Don Juan, like old times for me. Here is Sandra enjoying the moment. 

Sandra at Casa Don Juan at Algar this week

We shared tapas type food and I have to say their grilled mushrooms were just divine. They are grilled with olive oil, parsley and garlic and are typical of the area. 

Mushroom with garlic at Algar

Later we chilled by the pool like old times. I was so happy to share these places with my dear friends. This is the pool where many a good time was spent with my family years and years ago. It's like coming back to the scene of the crime. I am forever drawn. 

The pool at Algar

After our rest and I suppose digestion, I led my friends up the steep path towards the waterfalls. Adele and I were soon in our bathing costumes and in the freezing cold water next to the very powerful cascade. The moment was magnificent, a moment to remember. Sandra took photos like these ones and a video too for me to share here.

Bathing at Algar

After our fill of the main waterfall we walked up the very steep wooden steps which led us further and further up into the mountain where there are many natural pools. What a divine place. I have been coming for years yet Las Fuentes de Algar always give me a thrill and I love to take people there.

We came down feeling thoroughly refreshed. I had 89km to drive home but we stopped en route at Lidl in La Nucia for more provisions - primarily rose wine for my friends (and me).

Dinner was on the table, courtesy of Suzy, when we got home. Thank you darling. We then chilled out on the terrace with a glass or two of chilled wine. What a wonderful day we had.

Wednesday dawned and all we wanted to do that morning was to spend it on the beach. We did that after my handyman, Bernardo, came to fix  a few things in the apartment. My girls love our beach and I do too. We swam several times and then walked to the far end. On our way back we stopped for a coffee at one of the beach bars. We ordered 3 cappuccinos but were astounded when the bill came to over 16 euros at 5.50 euros per cup!  Coffee in Spain costs approximately 1.5 euros to 2 euros and a smart place will charge 2.5 but never in my life in Spain have I paid 5.5. Even Sandra and Adele who live in Brussels and in France thought it was scandalous. It was extortionate and similar to prices paid in Switzerland. I know we were paying for location but the other bars further along charged 2.5. So, what a rip off from "Conviction Beach Club Bar". Never again. 

Soon it was time for lunch and we slowly made our way back, had our showers and sat down to eat bits and bobs from whatever was in the fridge. The pièce de résistance was Sandra's home made guacamole. After some leisure time, we were out again. Sandra and Adele were keen to visit Alicante, the capital of the province which is about 18km from here so quite a short drive. We found an underground car park not far from the famous Explanada - Alicante's version of Barcelona's Las Ramblas, but far quieter. It is the city's most famous claim to fame after the Castle of Santa Barbara. Designed by architects Miguel López and Alfonso Fajardo, it was built in 1959 and was inspired by the Copacabana Boulevard. It runs parallel to the port and is lined with rows of palm trees. The floor is decorated with over 6 million tricolour marble tiles which forms a mosaic wave effect. I have been there hundreds of times but it never fails to impress me. 

On the Explanada with Adele on Wednesday night

At the end is Kiosko Peret, its most famous terrace bar which serves divine ice cream and horchata - ground almond/tiger nut milk. I had an horchata and my friends went for rose. Here they are enjoying the moment.

Sandra and Adele at Kiosko Peret on the Explanada in Alicante

From Kiosko Peret, I walked my friends to the Postiguet beach, Alicante's town beach which is small but beautiful with the castle above it. I had to have a photo of my friends to show you. 

Sandra and Adele by the Postiguet beach in Alicante on Wednesday night

Sandra being more a city girl then me was keen to explore the back and side streets which I am not at all familiar with. So I was on new ground that night for once. I have to say the old town is very pretty. They were also keen on having tapas for dinner. The best place to take them was to Nou Manolin which I had read about many times but never been. Incredibly upmarket and supposed to have the best tapas in Alicante it is quite famous. We walked there to find a queue until the bar opened at 8.15 pm on the dot. Then everyone rushed in to get a seat around the semil circular bar and soon every seat was taken.

Nou Manolin tapas bar inside 

It is obviously very popular. We found the prices very high but then again the place was divine as was the food. The only thing I couldn't stand was the noise but Sandra loved it. And here we are at the bar deciding what to order. 

At Nou Manolin on Wednesday night

For the record we had their Russian (potato) salad of which I was told they make 20 kilos a day, some anchovies, grilled whitebait, cod fritters and tomatoes. What a feast.

After this wonderful culinary experience we ambled back to the car park and then drove home. The day ended with drinks on our lovely terrace.

Thursday was 12th October, the national day of Spain, the day of the Armed Forces, Columbus Day and also the Feast of the Virgin of Pilar, so a national holiday. That morning Adele suggested that instead of breakfast we go out for brunch. I don't think I have ever done brunch but I much enjoyed it. We parked at the port in Santa Pola and walked to the Choco&latte bakery on the corner of the main square; Plaza Glorieta.

We were soon sitting down on the terrace in the square with a table full of the most delicious food. I went for the chocolate covered croissant and the "ensaimada". My girls went for savoury followed by an "ensaimada" which we all love.

Brunch in Santa Pola on the National Day of Spain

Of course there were going to be events in Santa Pola on 12th October. We saw a construction going up just by the castle and a few feet from our table but weren't sure what it was all about.

The  set up for the "mascleta" by the castle in Santa Pola on Thursday

I asked three policemen what it was and was told it was for the "mascleta". So what is that you may ask? As it's so difficult to explain I have copied the answer from Wikipedia: "A mascletà is a pyrotechnic event characterized by the achievement of a noisy and rhythmic composition that features, particularly during daytime, in street festivities; it is typical of the Valencian Community. It gets its name from the masclets that are tied by a wick to form a line or firework display"

These are very popular in the Valencia region which is firework mad. In the old days I remember seeing people with missing limbs and hands and scarred bodies from manhandling fireworks. Today there is much more security. The whole place was cordoned off so no one would get burnt.  But the Mascletá, a word from the local dialect of Valenciano, wasn't starting until 1. It was to be preceded by some sort of town hall declaration with the Guardia Civil involved. I later read the party that governs in Santa Pola is the right wing PP and that the mayor is a woman, so was not surprised when I heard things like "viva España" and "viva la Guardia Civil". You see Spain is divided politically as it always has been and unfortunately a sense of pride of national belonging is seen as right wing. Even the use of the Spanish flag is seen as "fascist" and is only approved by the left wing for football and over sporting activities which is a huge pity. 

Anyway, before the mascletá, we had time on our hands and my friends were keen to visit the clothes shops. Sandra and I found Adele in a lovely boutique called "El Armario de Carlitos" on the main street. I was in no mood for clothes shopping but the boutique was amazing with all their clothes sourced from places like Istanbul or Florence. I got talking to the assistant, a lovely woman called Natalia who is a great saleswoman. The girls brought patchwork jackets but then Natalia brought out the most divine black jacket with white spots which I could not resist. Neither could two other ladies. We all got talking and the whole episode turned into a spontaneous clothes buying party. We had to have photos. Here is one of that great experience. I shall be going back to that shop.

Having fun with my girls and other ladies in a boutique in Santa Pola on Thursday

We were having great fun but had to curtail our stay at the shop so as not to miss the "mascleta". We stood in prime position and I took this video. Honestly it was so loud I have never heard anything like it.  

The end of the "mascletà" in Santa Pola on 12th October

I'm not sure I liked it but what an experience. My girls were slightly shell shocked afterwards, hahahaha. We then sat down again to have a drink at Choco&Latte where we seemed to spend the whole morning.

Needing to move, we walked through the old castle and then along the extremely long promenade by the sea. I found it very hot and all I wanted to do was go home and have a shower.

We chilled out for the rest of the day, the highlight being playing the card game "sevens" until late in the evening. 

Friday was Adele's last day as she was leaving on Saturday. Sandra is leaving today and our girly week will be over unfortunately. It was to be a beach day and we had a great morning on Playa de Arenales. 

Here are my girlies walking down to the beach which was slightly fuller than usual owing to it being a bank holiday weekend. 

Walking down to the beach on Friday morning

I just love the beach in the morning with so much sun and I also love the wooden walkways past the dunes to the beach, like this one.

Walkway to our beach

We walked the length of the beach and came back to have coffee at the beach bar (chirringuito) near where we had placed our chairs. This time we were charged a reasonable 2 euros per cup. We left around 1 pm to get some provisions for lunch and on our way to Unide (local supermarket) we picked up Suzy. My daughter, kindly, made us our midday meal.

Later we played sevens again and for the record my friends, I won which is always satisfying. But frankly I don't care whether I win or lose. I just liked playing with my friends. I always loved card playing but have no one to play with in Spain. 

We were having dinner in Elche that night so I took my friends to see this historical walled city, so influenced by the Moors in Spain.  Elche is the second largest town in the province in Alicante and is considered the shoe capital of Spain. It is famous for its palm trees - the Palmeral de Elche  which is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the only palm grove in Europe with North African origins and the largest on the continent. Within the "plameral" there is a beautiful park called "El Huerto del Cura" which we visited. It is a magical place and contains a unique tree, the Imperial Palm Tree, the only one of its kind in the world. This is because it has seven "suckers" that have grown symmetrically from the main trunk. A kind visitor took our picture.

 

By the Imperial Palm Tree at the Huerto del Cura park which is part of the huge palm tree grove which makes Elche famous. 

We actually bought some of the fresh dates from the park which had been picked that morning. They are delicious. 

From El Huerto del Cura which means The Priest's orchard, we walked into the main town. It is partially surrounded by Islamic stone walls from the times Spain was under the Moorish yoke. No wonder there is so much Islamic influence in Spain.  We walked through one of the main squares, La Glorieta; which was teeming with people and atmosphere with palm trees everywhere, on our way to show my friends the Basílica of Santa Maria. It is the most beautiful baroque cathedral where a famous religious musical play is performed every August called The Mystery of Elche. 

The Basílica de Santa María in Elche

As I read on the Unesco Heritage Website," the mystery play of Elche - which is entirely sung - is a sacred musical drama of the death, the passage into heaven (known as the Assumption) and the crowning of the Virgin Mary. The crowning moment is when an angel (a child from the village) is lowered down from the dome on a rope. We have seen the play twice and it is unique.

We then had cocktails at the bar opposite the church. I went for mango mojito, Sandra for a gin tonic and Adele a glass of Rueda white wine. My friends loved Elche and kept telling me how friendly everyone is in Spain. I think they are right.

From the main square we retrieved our car to drive to La Finca where were having dinner. This is top notch fine dining. La Finca, run by the chef Susana Diaz, has one Michelin star and the eating experience is fabulous. The only thing I missed was having dinner in their wonderful garden but it was closed and we ate inside in very modern installations. The whole eating experience was heaven for our taste buds and other senses. 

We drove home after a wonderful day together. We did so many things and had such fun. I do love my girlies and hope we meet up again soon, not just once a year. 

Saturday came and as Adele wasn't leaving until the afternoon off we went to the weekly market in Santa Pola where we had a field day buying cheap clothing. 

Clothes shopping at the Santa Pola market yesterday

When we had had our fill, we drove into the centre again where we sat at the same bar as always in the castle square. Of course my friends had to return to the dress shop called La Casa, hahahaha. 

From there we went to Mercadona for them to buy Spanish ham to take back and for me to get some final provisions for our stay. Suzy made our lunch again and shortly afterwards Sandra and I drove Adele to the airport. 

We came back to a quieter apartment and got out the ludo board and then played cards until it was time for a small dinner. Before going to bed we watched a programme on the BBC summarising the first 7 days of war in Israel. It is very frightening. 

And today is Sunday. Shortly I will be driving Sandra to the airport and then will carry on to Madrid which should take me 5 hours or so. I am hoping I won't get too much traffic and will let you know how I got on next Sunday. It was sad to say goodbye to Suzy but great to have been with her. 

Cheers then my friends, until next Sunday

Masha