Sunday, 23rd April, 2023, Berbentane (Avignon Provence), France.
 |
| We are off. Leaving our house, Madrid, Friday 21st April, 2023 |
Dear friends and readers.
I am writing to you from a wonderful Airbnb house in the countryside outside the village of Berbentane, near Avignon in Provence, France. It's an area I don't know but made sense to stay here as it is the half way point between the border of France to the Côte D'Azure, where we are going today. Besides, Provence is well known for its beauty.
Last Sunday I spent most of the day planning the outbound part of our trip or rather perfecting it. I literally did nothing else. French guests arrived whose English was better than my French (boohoo) who are from Brittany. The day we left we had three English guests coming but I didn't get to meet them. I hope Lucy and maybe Suzy, will take care of all the guests in our absence.
On Sunday I decided on our accommodation for the first week by scouring Airbnb, Booking and even Camping sites. Airbnb was the winner. Our first nights were to be in Blanes, Berbentane (Avignon), Biot (Antibes) today, Capanne di Marcarolo (Genoa) tomorrow and then three nights in a place called Dogaletto very near Venice. We are hoping also to pass through and stop or visit Verona, Vicenza and Padua. (Links in blue are the Airbnb places I chose). I know I had originally said I wouldn't plan more than 2 nights ahead so as to be able to be more flexible, but the corporate organiser in me, decided otherwise. For now I have stopped at Venice and we shall see where we will stay in Slovenia and the rest of the Balkans.
I could think of nothing else and time flew. I slept badly as I already had what my mother used to call "reisefieber" which translates into "travel fever", a state of excitement, nerves and some anxiety before a trip. In our house we referred to each other as people with "itchy feet", i.e. loving being on the go, loving traveling. This being the biggest trip of our life, I had a bad bout of "reisefieber" that night.
I was awake early and raring to continue with my trip planning, or rather fine tuning it. I was hell bent on making my own map and I'm not good with computers. Google Maps (My Maps) helped and this is what I came up with. I'm sure it could be done better but I am happy with how it is so far. As to whether we will stick to it, the road will decide as will getting advice from locals, especially in the Balkans and Turkey. You can see it here. Later an ex Telia (Yoigo) colleague who lived for many years in Turkey told me the routes through that country were great and that she had nothing to add. I'm glad. Another ex colleague, from Nokia, way back, put me in touch with a lovely Armenian woman who has also advised me about travel in the area - lots of churches and monasteries, apparently.
 |
| Map of the outbound trip - should say Biot after Berbantane - oops |
All in all, if we make it as far as Armenia, that will be a total of 6.160 km. The round trip will include about 13 countries and the trip back this time through Greece, Albania and Montenegro comes to around 6329 km so a total of 12.500 km approximately. We have a departure date but do not have a return date. That will depend on the road and how we feel.
In my Skype call with Amanda that afternoon, she mentioned a BBC programme called Race Across the World which she said made her think of me. Well, not quite. In this competition 5 couples are given 1300 pounds per person to make it to Singapore by road and not air. That would be the cost of a plane ticket to Singapore which is the furthest point in the world you can reach by road from London. They are not allowed to use their own money and as they leave Greenwich, the starting point, their mobile phones are confiscated. They have just cash to make their way which will probably take about 50 days. At some point they will all go through Turkey like me which is what made Amanda think of us. I had to watch and started the first episode. I am most interested in the couple from Bradford, a father and his rather lazy son. But they are quick on their mark and made to the "continent" before the others. Thank God we don't have to race to Yerevan.
Soon after talking to my dear friend, Oli and the kids arrived. We had some fun time in the garden in the shade as the sun was quite hot. Here is a hilarious picture of Oli breastfeeding Elliot (aged 3 and a half!!) with Juliet protesting. I hope she doesn't mind me posting it.
 |
| Fun in the garden - both kids fighting to be breastfed (hahahaha) |
They stayed for dinner which was a bit chaotic as it always is with the babies, but fun as well. That night I slept better but woke up at 5.30 still feeling the "reisefieber" which wouldn't go away until we left. I think I've still got it - hahaha - I am still sleeping very few hours during the trip, so far.
Tuesday came, just 3 days until the trip of our lives. We didn't go on any walks at home this week as my knee has been playing up. It's quite clear that the bulge of water on the knee is quite big and it was hurting at night. I hope it doesn't play up on our trip. We went out on a few errands and came home for lunch just on time. I spent nearly all of the afternoon on planning the route for the trip back from Armenia to Madrid. I made another map which you can see here. Again, all will depend on the road and locals' advice as I'm pretty lost when it comes to Turkey which is a huge and practically unknown country to me. I have been to Istanbul twice and Ankara once but that's it, nothing else.
 |
| Return route |
I also generated a document with the full details of accommodation for the first week and looked up places to stay in Ljubliana and Zagreb, as well as Tbilsi and a couple of other places.
Meanwhile Eladio's handy man (Freddy) came with another worker to continue fixing the bathroom in my father's old room where the plumber had dealt with the leak. The good news is the leak is mended and on 3rd May Freddy and co will come and paint. They put the enormously heavy bookcases back which practically hide all the damage so I was able to make the room available on Airbnb again (sigh of relief).
The highlight of the day was my Skype call with Sandra (Brussels) and Adele (Brittany) who wanted to wish us a happy trip. Sandra knows Italy well and was full of suggestions. She also told us to be careful, especially in the Balkans. We will, I'm sure, but no doubt will have some scrapes.
I was so busy working on my map, it was way past the time for our dinner which we had outside on the terrace. Despite the reisefieber, I slept a few more hours that night, just over 6.
On Wednesday we had to do big food shopping to leave Lucy, Suzy and Pippa lots of provisions. We set off and had a nasty surprise. One of the new tires of my Mini was punctured. It was a good job we went in the Mini and not the Volvo as otherwise we would have set off on Friday with a puncture. We were lucky in that a local garage was able to fix it in under half an hour for just 29 euros. I call that efficiency. Well done Tallers Pereira in Villaviciosa de Odón.
We then did the shopping where we bumped into our ex Chinese family, Amanda and George (not their real names). I told them about the other Chinese family who had been here at Easter and showed them a photo. It was a huge coincidence when Amanda told me the man (Marco or Mo-gu-a) is "famous". He is an ex Chinese secret policeman, who, fed up of the regime (politics), upped and left China for Spain - Valencia with his wife and little boy Junlin. Amanda told me he had a website and went to it and there would you believe was a video of our house he had posted (with my permission). You can see it
here. She told me he has many followers. She also said everything he says in the video is positive so it's great publicity for me hahahahaha. I was tickled pink, so was Eladio. This was the photo of us with Mo-gu-a and his wife Echo and boy Junlin who were with us at Easter.
 |
| The Chinese guest who took the video. |
I later wrote to them to tell them our other Chinese guests "knew" him and showed me the video which I thanked him for. His wife, Echo, told me lots of their "fans" loved the house and could they please post my Airbnb link. Well, of course they can. If you are worried about my safety, don't be, the address is not disclosed and people will only be able to find us via Airbnb which is how I operate anyhow.
We were home late, had a quick lunch and then I was off again, to the hairdresser in the heat of the early afternoon. I asked Caty to cut my hair more than usual as it had to last 2 months. I wasn't watching as she slightly changed my hair style. Whey did she do that? I honestly don't know. Hope it grows soon. We were joined by Oli and the kids later and again had a chaotic dinner together with Elliot sticking his fingers into the humus jar and Juliet throwing her broccoli soup all over Oli and our garden chair and cushion - lovely! They left as our French guests returned and we went up to bed. Despite my "reisfieber" I was able to enjoy a great Spanish film called "Con nada a cambio" (
With nothing in return) on Netflix. I slept on and off that night.
And then it was Thursday, the day before our departure. We have been talking about this trip for about 2 years, inspired by an Australian Airbnb guest who is still travelling the world with her sister. She mentioned Georgia and it captivated me. There are plans to meet with her and her sister Sharleen in Turkey. Wouldn't that be great?
I spent a lot of the morning packing our medium sized suitcases. I arranged the clothes so that we can see which clothes are where and won't have to unpack as mostly we will be only be sleeping one night at places. We did a hundred other things related to packing and being ready for the journey the next morning but we did so leisurely. We both agreed that it is often the planning that is just as much fun as the event itself. It is, isn't it?
Eladio had folded the back seats so we have plenty of room at the back of the Mini. He had said several times there was room for us to sleep in it if we are stuck somewhere and proved it to me by lying down in the back hahahaha. I like luxury hotels, can do budget and clean bed and breakfasts, but sleeping in the car? Well, no.
 |
| Eladio proving to me we could sleep in the back of the Mini. But what about the luggage, would we leave it in the street? Hahahaha, you won't see me sleeping in the Mini. |
We did as much as we could that day and by mid afternoon were free of tasks. It was a lovely sunny afternoon and evening and we were joined by Oli, Elliot and Juliet for a last night family dinner. Why did I not take a photo to remember the night? Well, it was chaotic as a a 3 year old and a 1 year old at dinner make it so. I was probably too busy trying to get Elliot to eat and not put his fingers in the food while taking off his clothes hahahaha. This is him that evening, a photo to remember; half naked - as usual:-)
 |
| Elliot on our last night at home |
Before he left, I took him into the kitchen to show him our journey on the maps on the wall. We have a world map, a map of Spain, a map of Europe and I think a map of Costa Rica and Nicaragua where Suzy lived. He loved his geography class and listened to every word. When I showed him where Paris was - he is into Lady Bug (a Frency cartoon series), he asked where Valencia is as he has been there. He then asked where "Maris" was and I thought he meant Paris. He then said "Maris, where I live". Of course he meant Madrid so I showed him. That was his first geography lesson and I think he was spell bound.
And then they were off and we won't see them until we get back. They will be bigger by then and we will be a bit older (boohoo). We went to bed early and of course I didn't sleep much, just over 5 hours. I was up at just before 6 am. Wow, was it really Friday 21st April, the day of our departure on a trip we have been talking about for 2 years? Yes it was.
We were ready to leave at about 9.30 but with one thing or another didn't get into the car which was less full than we had thought, until nearly 11 am. Suzy was there to see us off (with little Pippa) as was our neighbour, Julio - the best neighbour you could have. Suzy took photos of our departure, one of which I chose for this week's feature photo as it is very symbolic. Here is another.
 |
| Setting off on Thursday morning |
We had a long drive to Blanes on the Costa Brava, 709 km which the satnav told us would take 6h. 33 minutes. Of course it took longer. We took turns driving and although I hate overtaking lorries on motorways, I gained confidence quite quickly and I know it will help Eladio if I drive too. We stopped for lunch - a lovely picnic as well as for petrol, and a couple of breaks. On the way I got a beautiful message from Mother Seraphima - the Mother Superior of my Aunt Olga's Russian Orthodox convent in Sofia where we will be visiting as one of the highlights of the trip. She wrote: "Christ is risen. May God send you a guardian angel to protect and guide you on her way". Bless her. That was very comforting. I am warming to her very much and can't wait to meet her.
As we drove, our English guests arrived. One of them is an artist for Redbull - good for him. They loved the house -3 of them will be staying until 2nd May. I hope all goes well in our absence.
We didn't get to Blanes until well past 7.30 pm due to horrendous traffic on the motorway near Barcelona - I suppose it was weekend traffic. There I had booked a home stay at an Airbnb apartment - our first experience in a shared Airbnb; i.e. with the owner living there. The apartment is right by the sea but we were too tired to go out. Besides, Blanes - very pretty - was not in our plans. More in our plans was to settle in, relax, have dinner and go to bed. The host was nice; Teresa and, of course, we exchanged experiences as Airbng hosts. As to the place, it was not great. The building was being refurbished which she didn't tell us, the bed was tiny as was the bathroom and frankly the place was not particularly clean. But it was good enough. We just needed somewhere to sleep. The nicest part was the lounge.
We were soon sitting in it with a glass of wine and having our "pistachio moment". We love to relax over a glass of wine and some pistachios before dinner, when we can. We have brought 3 bottles of wine to last us for a while. Here is my dapper husband during the "pistachio moment".
 |
| Eladio at our Airbnb in Blanes on our first night |
We had packed lots of food as we shall not be dining out for 2 months. Lucy had made us some tortilla and delicious cream of pumpkin soup which we ate in the apartment. We went to bed early. Although it was small, the bed was comfy. We are used to an enormous bed but will have to make do with what we find on this trip.
Eladio fell asleep immediately but I couldn't so turned to Netflix where I watched new episodes of "The Diplomat" on my PC.
I was awake at 6 am on
Saturday morning and had the apartment to myself. I made a coffee in Teresa's Nespresso machine and sat by the terrace with these views. The building was covered in scaffolding which you can't see in the pic but it really spoiled the view.
 |
| Our rather disappointing Airbnb in Blanes - the owner should have included the fact that the building is undergoing refurbishment in her listing. |
 |
| View from Teresa's flat in Blanes |
We were out on the street with all our belongings by 9 am at least. We had 2 suitcases, 2 PC cases, 2 big M+S bags of food and a Sainsbury's bag of cooking and eating utensils. Most importantly the bag contained my travel kettle and plunge cafetiere.
 |
| All our belongings for the trip |
The drive to our next Airbnb in Berbentane, near Avignon was 3h.45 minutes - 375 kim - across the border into France. But we didn't see anything, just drove past Perpignan, Montpellier, Narbonne and Nimes. We stopped for a coffee on the way and noticed just how many places there are to stop - "aires" - on the N9 in France, so many compared to motorways in Spain. We got a bit lost at times but made it to Berbentane. This is the house we are staying at, run by the owners, Mireille and Jean Louis, neither of whom speak anything but French. There was nothing for it but to get out my school French which was good enough for a one night stay hahahaha. Maybe if I stayed longer I would improve my knowledge of the language.
 |
| Our Airbnb in Berbentane |
We brought in all the luggage and soon I was preparing our lunch in the kitchen when I asked Eladio to bring me the Sainsbury's bag with all our stuff. It wasn't anywhere to be seen. We could only conclude he had left it on the street outside our Airbnb in Blanes. I was furious but checked my tongue, not wanting to spoil our holiday. It did mean, though, that we would have to find somewhere to replenish the items, especially the kettle and cafetiere; damn it. This was Eladio sitting at the table on the kitchen patio here yesterday. We have had nice weather so far but much cooler than Madrid, of course. But, that's fine.
 |
| Lunch here yesterday on the kitchen patio |
There would be no siesta for my husband as we wanted to spend the afternoon in Avignon. It is most famous for the Palais des Papes. In the 14th century, King Philip IV of France, in a dispute with Rome over funding for wars and for political reasons, sent the papacy to this town. There was another papal seat in Castellón Spain. So, the whole town has a medieval feel about it. It was teeming with people but quiet as, unlike in Spain, people don't speak as loudly, hahaha. Our first picture together was outside the Papal Palace taken by a Spanish lady from Cádiz. This is it. It was our first proper tourist location and we liked Avignon.
 |
| Outside the Palais des Papes - Avignon, yesterday |
 |
| At the top of the palace which is more like a fortress |
 |
| Eladio taking a moment to rest at the top of the palace |
But Avignon is probably more famous for its
bridge, the Saint-Bénézet bridge, more commonly called Pont d'Avignon. Who hasn't heard of it? Legend has it that it was built in the 12th century by a young shepherd, Bénézet, who heard voices from an angel to build a bridge in Avignon. But what has really made it famous is the song "Sur le pont d'Avignon". We had to cross it (over the River Rhone) but didn't dance or sing. However, we were really surprised when we got to the end of it to see it is broken, or the end is missing. Why wasn't it reconstructed I wondered. This is the view of the bridge from the river side. The River Rhône dominates Avignon, near the river mouth, and dominates Provence. It is a huge and powerful river and more than 800km long.
 |
| The famous bridge in Avignon |
The French make money from everything so you even have to pay to cross the bridge which we did, of course. Here is Eladio posing for me.
On the bridge in Avignon yesterday
We would have loved to visit Villenueve les Avignons on the other side but instead went in search of a hypermarket. Thus we went to a boring shopping centre where there was a huge Auchan and spent a fortune and too much precious time replenishing the items lost in the bag left behind in the street in Blanes, damn it.
We were "home" at around 8.30 pm and noticed how it gets darker earlier in this region than in Madrid. Mireille had kindly laid the table for us and I made a simple meal of gazpacho, ham, salad, bread and fruit for our dinner - with some of our wine.
This is a lovely Airbnb but I'm afraid I didn't sleep well. Sleep just wouldn't come and I was up late texting, reading, etc until finally I was able to sleep.
Today is Sunday and I can already hear Jean Louis making our breakfast. Apparently we will be served jams from fruit from the garden and hopefully a fresh French baguette. Today we are off again, this time to Biot near Antibes which is a nearer destination, about 2.5 hours. I can't wait to be on the Côte d'Azure.
So, I will leave you now as I have to get going. Cheers and thanks for following our trip and reading my blog.
No comments:
Post a Comment