Camposanco, A Guarda (Galicia), Sunday 21st August 2022
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| Group photo during our amazing Franco Anglo Spanish party on Thursday night, without a doubt the highlight of the week and month. |
Good morning from our little hotel near A Guarda, a small seaside town in the province of Pontevedra in Galicia, very near Portugal. A Guarda is the lobster capital of Spain and it is where we have come for the first part of this year's wedding anniversary trip.
39 years ago today we got married and we have every reason to celebrate. We first met in the summer of 1980. I had just graduated and was 23 years old. I had no idea then that that chance meeting with Eladio would become a happy marriage and lead me to leave England for Spain the following year. I had no idea either on 21st August 1983, the day we married, that I had made the best decision of my life. As a Finnish friend, Anne, once told me "your marriage is as good as it gets". She is right. But before I relate our trip here, let me rewind to last Sunday.
Last Sunday was the perfect family day. We had a quiet morning, including our much cooler walk as the temperature dropped a few degrees, finally, this last week. Our French family were happily settling in. I spent time by the pool reading and so did they. Things livened up when Oli and family arrived in the middle of the afternoon. Marianne, my little French friend, joined us immediately; happy to play with Juliet and happy to be given a swimming lesson by Miguel who is or was a semi professional swimmer. His speciality is the butterfly stroke; probably the most difficult.
While Elliot slept, Juliet bathed with her father and I had to capture our lovely smiling granddaughter soon to turn 1 year old in the pool.
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| Little Juliet with her expert swimmer father, Miguel, in the pool last Sunday |
Eladio joined us too but didn't go in the water, preferring to sit in the shade on a bench under one of the chestnut trees. That was when my much awaited electric fly and mosquito racket which is called a "bug zapper" arrived from my trusty supplier,
Amazon. Here he is about to unbox it.
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| Eladio showing my new electric fly swatter which was delivered by Amazon last Sunday |
It had great review so I had high expectations. We tried it out that night and it worked well with wasps while we had dinner but not so well with flies. It comes with a light for use at night that attracts and kills bugs. I managed to kill 3 wasps manually and then when it was fixed on the table it killed another. It literally fries them and when it does it's like fireworks. Elliot was interested as it's quite a fun thing to use but dangerous for kids because of the voltage. He understood perfectly when I told him it wasn't for children and sat happily eating the tortilla Lucy had made for dinner.
Marianne was happy to play with both babies and Elliot was increasingly convinced she is "Lady Bug" (Marinet) from the French comic series. Later I caught them all singing the theme song. I wish I had taken a video as it was such a fun moment.
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| Singing the Lady Bug song with Marianne |
We laugh a lot with our French family. They are just our sort of people and there are great vibes in the house when they are with us. It's such a pity that our anniversary trip had to coincide with their stay which meant that we only had 5 days with them. Marianne has such charisma. When she grows up, no doubt, she will break many men's hearts. I was heartbroken to say goodbye to her on Friday morning.
All in all Sunday was a marvelous family day. Monday came and it was quiet. We went for our walk while the French family went to visit the pretty old town of Chinchón to the south of Madrid. When we returned I skinny dipped and even showered outside - what a wonderful feeling. Monday was 15th August and the Feast of the Assumption which mean it was a holiday in Spain and in France too. Lucy took the day off so we had to fend for ourselves which was fine as we ate leftovers.
The highlight of my day was a video call in the afternoon with our friends Kathy and Phil. I went to school with Kathy who lives in Keighley, West Yorkshire. They are coming in October for 10 days which will be great. In fact I have a lot to to look forward to after our anniversary holiday. Our dear au pair, Pernille, from Denmark is coming at the beginning of September, then Amanda and then Kathy and Phil - wonderful. To top it all, in November, I shall be going to Yorkshire myself for some event at our old school - St. Joseph's College. There will be a mass on 19th November, at the school, hopefully followed by a lunch. It's the perfect excuse to revisit Yorkshire this year. Then it will be Christmas and the year will soon be over. Lots to look forward to.
Once again that day I learned new French words from little Marianne. I think her parents would prefer for it to be the other way round and they are right. On Sunday and Monday I learned that an e-book is a "liseuse", that a dog's tail is a "queue" (makes sense or does it?) and that to bark is "aboyer". I then looked up what to wag a tail is in French and the verb is "remuer". Thus "le chien remue la queue". Easy right? This is useful vocab when talking about dogs. Marianne has been left in charge of feeding both Pippa and Phoebe as I think I told you last week. Thus she feeds them "croquettes". I kept calling it "nourriture" (food in French) when the right word for dog food or the type Pippa eats is "croquettes".
Another lesson or "leçon" in French. As I told my friend Kathy, I'm not sure our French teacher, Miss Doyle, from SJC would be happy with my memory. But not doubt she would be happy to see me learning more French so many years later.
Tuesday was the day my dear friend Julio and ex Nokia colleague was coming for dinner. I was also expecting a new guest, a young solo traveler, Lucy S. from England. I always like receiving guests from my home country. But we had the morning to ourselves and it started with our walk in the early hours of the day before it got too hot. Here is Eladio equipped with hat and sunglasses with Pippa, of course.
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| Eladio and Pippa on our early morning walk on Tuesday this week |
I came back to skinny dip and shower outside while my dear husband mowed the lawns. As he was busy I did the food shopping, making sure I left lots of provisions for Lucy, Pippa and Phoebe our cat.
It was while I was out I noticed the sky was clouded and hazy but I could also smell smoke. I was worried there was a fire in the neighbourhood. To check I looked at the whatsapp group formed by many neighbours and that's when
I find out the cause. The clouded sky and smell of burning came from wildfires in Portugal near Salamanca, about 250km from the capital. How could that be I wondered and the answer was a westerly wind bringing it to the sky of Madrid. It was really strange.
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| The Madrid sky affected by wildfires in Portugal 250km away from the capital |
Meanwhile in the north of Spain where it is much cooler, I was sent news by my sister-in-law about a shark swimming in the sea at our favourite beach in Asturias; "la playa de Poó" - the one with the funny name. It was the most surprising news I had read for a long time.
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| A shark in the sea by our favourite beach in Asturias - La Playa de Poó. |
Apparently the poor animal - not that I like sharks - was injured, something to do with its fin - and was swimming in circles close to the beach which had to be closed to the public that morning. If you can read Spanish this is the
news article Dolores sent to me.
I missed Eladio while out shopping and came home to unload everything with dear Lucy who is such a help. We couldn't live without her. I had a short siesta after lunch and then was up to start preparations for our dinner that night with Julio. I also had time for a long skype call with my dear friend Amanda who is coming out to see me/us in September. That afternoon, Lucy, our young UK guest arrived too and she seemed delightful. Lucy studied Spanish and French so she has come to the right house, especially this week where the three languages, English, Spanish and French were being spoken most of the time. I think she loved the place and remarked she now understood why I was as a "super host". I told her that this house was not your typical Airbnb. It's so international. Amanda remarked that my mother would have been proud of me. Well, she would have enjoyed my guests just as much as I do.
But back to dinner for Julio. For the occasion we had "salmorejo" ( a thick type of gazpacho), my famous tuna salad and then salmon the Finnish way with dill and sour cream - delicious. Dessert was fresh mango and raspberries with vanilla and mango ice cream. Julio approved and even told me he repeats with great success some of my dishes for friends and family. This was my tuna salad. The tuna is whisked with finely chopped spring onion - be sure to include the green part - and mayonnaise. It is actually a recipe I invented myself years ago. The tuna mix goes in the centre and then I decorate the rest of the plate with eggs, tomatoes and avocado.
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| Tuna salad as one of the ingredients for Tuesday's dinner with Julio |
Julio, now a University professor - oh how proud of him I am - never comes empty handed and brought a box of red wine. We actually ended up drinking Rueda white wine which went better with the dishes I served but it would come in handy for our dinner party on Thursday.
Before we dug in to our beautifully laid table on the kitchen terrace we had to have some photos and here they are. I feel so small and short next to my tall friend Julio (hahaha). Oh how I love him. We have been friends now for 22 years, since I joined Nokia in 2000. We still sorely miss and missed that night, our "third musketeer", Fátima, who so sadly died in December 2019. She was in our thoughts that night as she always is.
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| With Julio who came for dinner on Tuesday night |
The food, the wine, the company, the pleasant temperature - finally - made for a wonderful evening together. Julio left early as he always does and so we went to bed early too. Julio is known for leaving early and not saying goodbye at big events, especially parties, so as to leave unnoticed. I do the same. It may seem rude but if done carefully no one usually notices.
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| Leaving without saying goodbye is quite an art. You have to do it carefully so that no one thinks you are rude. |
So when our guest Lucy mentioned the expression "French exit" during her stay here, I was reminded of Julio. Funnily enough I had never heard of it but was intrigued by the meaning and origin. This is what I found: "
Mid 18th century said to derive from the French custom of leaving a dinner or ball without saying goodbye to the host or hostess. The phrase was first recorded shortly after the Seven Years War; the equivalent French expression is "filer à l'Anglaise, literally "to escape in the style of the English". I also read it is sometimes called an "Irish goodbye"; something to do with not wanting to reveal their drunkenness or not having their keys taken so they can't leave. I then carried on researching and there are all sorts of variations in many languages in Europe but it is mainly either an English or a French exit. PS. In Spanish, like English it is also called a French exit or French leave- "
despedirse a la francesa". My father who adored etymology would have approved of my interest but I wonder if he knew the expressions. Do you? PPS "French leave means to be absent from work without permission.
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| Many of the different ways of saying to leave without saying goodbye |
I find the subject fascinating but must return to the tales of my week. On a final note, even though Julio left early that night, he did say goodbye, hahaha.
Wednesday dawned and I was up far too early at 6 am - I had forgotten to take my sleeping pills; dammit. It turned out to be a good day. After our morning walk I took my guest Lucy to buy food. We also had to rush to the petrol station to fill up the tank of my car which was dangerously running out of petrol. I was pleasantly surprised to see the price of petrol has gone down a bit but still paid a lot more than a year ago. I then took Lucy to Alverán for a coffee which was great except for the noise of some road works. It was good to chat in English and to get to know each other. Our trip out finished with a visit to my doctor's for a prescription and then to a chemist - I love chemists in Spain and always have. They are clean, cool and very efficient. We came home to chill out by the pool; Lucy in the sun and me in the shade.
Lunch was "spag bol" made by the other Lucy (funny to have two Lucy's in the house) and then a short siesta. Our French guests were back from a visit to Toledo. 12 year old Marianne was not impressed and is not into museums and monuments unlike her mother who is a history and geography teacher. It figures. I then went online to find things Marianne might find more fun for a girl her age. Her passion is animals so I think her parents will take her to the zoo. I don't like the fact that animals are trapped in zoos to be shown to us human beings but there isn't much option. To cheer her up I asked if she wanted to help me bathe Pippa and she jumped at the chance. Pippa did not mind at all that our little guest was part of the proceedings. I taught Marianne how to wash a dog properly and after drying her thoroughly she was deemed "prope". I had forgotten the word so there came another lesson in French. Later both Lucy and I gave her a lesson in English which was a lot of fun. Marianne and I are now connected via whatsapp and I have vowed to send her 3 new words a day in English and she has to do the same in French. Later her father thanked me for being so attentive to his daughter. He had no need to as she is such a wonderful girl. She has charisma. It's so evident.
I introduced her to my dear Uni friends, both excellent French speakers, Adele who lives in France (now in Brittany) and Sandra who lives in Brussels. We had a good old chin wag for nearly 40 minutes. I do wish they lived nearer me. Ah and I learned another French expression which I found funny bur related to. It came from Adele who has had her sons and grandchildren staying with them for a week or so. It is "
chic-ouf" and is used to describe enjoying the arrival of your grandchildren but being happy or relieved when they are gone. You can read more about it
here as I cannot now go into a long description of the meaning and origin new expression or you will be bored stiff hahha.
The day ended with dinner on the terrace; mostly leftovers and so to bed.
Thursday was the highlight of the week or the month, the day of our planned goodbye dinner with Jerome, Peggy and Marianne. Lucy, our English guest would be joining us as would Oli and family. We were to be 11 people including our little grandchildren and what a blast we had.
I spent a good part of the day on the preparations and so did Peggy as we both contributed to the dinner. I feel so comfortable with our French guests, it's like having friends to stay. The afternoon was quiet too which we spent round the pool. Oli and family arrived a little late but were on time for dinner. By 8.30 or so we were all sitting around the table outside the kitchen. Again, before any one could dig in we had to have photos of course. Miguel our cameraman made sure we got a group photo which I would later print for Peggy. I also wanted one with Marianne, Elliot and Pippa. Later I printed them both and put them in the last 2 frames I had as a gift for our French guests. I have chosen the group photo for this week's feature photo but the one that means most to me is the one with Marianne, Pippa and Elliot. I miss her so. She is now in charge of feeding Pippa and Phoebe but I think she was a little sad we were leaving. It was bad planning not to be there throughout their stay and I wish we had but I had booked this holiday ages ago. However, we have agreed that next year they will come and stay with us in Montrondo. That will be something to look forward to, I know.
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| With beautiful Marianne and my adorable grandson Elliot who thinks she is "Lady Bug" (Marinette) from the French cartoon series |
She had dressed up specially and looked amazing. I was told I looked good in my French red dress, the one I bought in Ile de Re, but I'm not so sure.
The food was delicious and so was the company. I remarked that it was was the perfect "entente cordiale" if only it hadn't been for Brexit which breaks my heart. Part of my Airbnb experience is meeting guests like these from all over the world and I have to say that Thursday night was one of the best experiences of interacting with guests. I would say 99% of our guests are wonderful and some are very very special, so much so they end up becoming friends like Jerome, Peggy, Marianne and lovely Lucy. And here we are around the table before digging in, apart from the wine of course of which there was a good choice of bottles of both French and Spanish origin.
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| Everyone around the table |
The mixture of languages was perfect too; English, French and Spanish. All of us know at least 2 of the languages and I kept feeling that my French was really improving. I do love the language and it is a pity I never learned more. In Spanish you would call it my "asignatura pendiente" (unfinished business). I could curse my adored parents for not teaching me more languages or teaching them to me properly. They were polyglots and wonderful teachers but somehow I missed out on that. In any case I do like practicing my French and learning new words.
Then the fun part started. Previously I had shown Marianne our old chest full of disguises. The chest belonged to my great grandparents and is quite old. Inside it is covered in old newspaper and you can see the date; 1860 something. I love our old oak chest; a family heirloom. Marianne couldn't believe what she was seeing - all the girls' outfits from when they were little to when they went out for Halloween in their 20's, so there was much to choose from. We chose some Hawaiian looking stuff, mostly garlands and skirts as well as wigs. We got them out before my dessert, a delicious strawberry mille feuille of my own invention.
As we put on the outfits, laughter emerged as you can imagine. Here is one of us all in our outfits and one of Jerome and Eladio which I found the funniest haha. It was a classic fun moment from a wonderful dinner which each and every one of us enjoyed immensely. It was an absolute blast where all the ingredients were perfect, good food, wonderful people, lots in common, a beautiful evening; not too hot nor too cold all of which made for a perfect atmosphere and international dinner; one to remember.
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| Photos from the dinner party - fun with our international guests - a party to be remembered. |
There was more to come when dessert was served. I think everyone enjoyed my tart.
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| My strawberry mille feuille |
Oli and family had to leave early as my daughter had to be up for work at 6 am the next day to go to work. Lucy, bless her, cleared the table, while we sat round happily talking until it was time to go to bed. No one, by the way, made a "French exit" hahaha - thank you Lucy for the expression. We had such a great evening, a real blast, one my best parties hahaha as Suzy remarked when she saw the photos.
Friday morning came, the day of our departure. It was so sad to say goodbye to our French family, especially Marianne. But we vowed we would see each other next year and I really hope they come with us to Montrondo. I also hope I see our English guest Lucy who stayed on until yesterday when a Dutch family would arrive. Hopefully they would make up for our absence.
We left just after 10 and had quite a long drive ahead of us as it is more than 500km to A Guarda. But it was pleasant with not much traffic. We stopped at a pretty village called Puebla de Sanabria in the province of Zamora for our picnic lunch. We found a spot under the trees next to the river Ter - what a beautiful place to have our picnic. People were bathing in the river and it seemed a pleasant place to come on holiday.
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| Our picnic lunch in Puebla de Sanabria |
We must have reached our destination, Hotel O Novo Muiño, 4km or so from A Guarda, at around 5.15 pm. The modest little 2 star hotel, 200 metres from the O Muiño beach - next to Camposanco - had been recommended to me by my sister-in-law Dolores who had stayed here before with her family. It may be modest but it is in a quiet location, surrounded by vegetation and the sea and has all that we need, including a wonderful swimming pool.
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| Our modest but well located hotel |
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| The pool at the hotel |
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| The view from our terrace. We were told we had a sea view but you can hardly spy the sea for the trees |
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| The 200m walk to the beach - surrounded by pine trees |
The room; sparse and modest but large, boasts a small terrace which for me is a must. I can't stand hotel rooms without at least a balcony. I unpacked and set up my Nespresso, travel kettle, PCs, etc. The only thing I left behind - dammit - was the remote control for my Fire Stick but no worries I quickly ordered one from Amazon and it will arrive tomorrow.
Eladio was tired from driving and was soon asleep on the enormous bed (another plus) while I made my way to the pool. It was sunny and the temperature most agreeable - about 25ºc. The water was not cold and I enjoyed 2 swims and then sat in the shade with my mobile phone for entertainment.
Knowing A Guarda is the Spanish lobster capital and lobster being my favourite food in the world, I made a reservation at restaurant that came recommended -
Riveiriña - and is located in the port of the town, 3.5km from our hotel. We could have walked there but were tired. We had a sea front seat and could not resist ordering a "mariscada". A mariscada is a huge platter of seafood and is typical on the north coast of Spain where the best seafood comes from. A mariscada is a marvel for taste buds but not good for your fingers which get very sticky. For once, though, I didn't care. For starters Eladio had "pulpo" (octupus) and I had "zamburriñas" (mini scallops) which we didn't need but ordered them because we both love these dishes. These were my zamburriñas. I actually only eat the scallop and not the roe as I am not into roe as I am not into caviar. The first and only time I tasted caviar was in the Russian Embassy in London when I was a teenager. It came served on "doorstop" bread. I shall never forget hahahaha. Well, my scallops were divine. Here they were (not are hahaha).
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| My zamburriñas |
When the "mariscada" came even we couldn't believe our eyes at the size of it. Just look.
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| The amazing "mariscada" we had on our first night here |
It consisted of lobster, crab, barnacles, cockles, scallops, mussels, large prawns and what I think are called razor clams. We ate most of it and washed it all down with a wonderful bottle of local wine from the Albariño region. Dessert was an ice cream in the street after which we drove home. Keen to see "our beach" we wandered down to it. It was late by then but I got quite a good photo of my dear husband. It was my goodnight photo for the family. On the other side of the water is Portugal just a stone's throw. We heard that from the Port of Pasaxe nearby there are taxi boats that take you across the river to
Caminha. I hope that while we are here we get to visit the small Portuguese port.
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On our beach "O Muiño" (the mill - "molino" in Spanish)
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Our beach is where the mouth of the famous Galician river, "El Miño" is. So basically we are by an estuary and what a beautiful one it is. I love being by the sea don't you?
We slept amazingly well that night and I didn't wake up until 7 am yesterday, Saturday. The day was ours for the taking, the first day of our anniversary trip here.
After a modest breakfast we decided to take a walk we had spied next to the beach that goes as far as the port in A Guarda. What a beautiful walk along the Miño estuary, what a discovery. I wished Oli and family who went on holiday to Montrondo yesterday could have joined us. Here are a few shots of this glorious walk.
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| On our beautiful walk yesterday |
The walk was long and we needed a coffee afterwards. Where better than at the sister hotel of El Molino? It belongs to ours, O Novo Muiño but is right on the beach. We could have booked a room there but preferred ours because of the pool although both hotels can use it.
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| Hotel Molino on the beach, nothing special but a great location |
The Hotel Molino is nothing special but wow the cafeteria terrace is because it looks out right over the sea. We had read bad reviews of the restaurant but because we loved the location we decided to book a table for dinner there that night. Below is a photo of Eladio having his coffee. What a place, what a find.
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| Coffee time yesterday |
After our coffee it was beach time. The weather was perfect for bathing and there weren't too many people so down we went with our two beach chairs to enjoy some quiet time on the Playa O Muiño.
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| "Our beach" - Playa O Muiño yesterday |
As this is Galicia I didn't expect the water to be warm. I expected it to be quite cold but it was absolutely freezing so I hardly went in. What a pity. It reminded me of bathing on the Lanzada or San Vicente do Mar beaches further up the coast. Few people were bathing and I understood why. But it was pleasant to sit there. I had forgotten my kindle so we didn't stay long. Besides we had a lunch reservation at
El Perro Verde just up the road from our hotel.
El Perro Verde literally means the "green dog" in Spanish and the expression is used to say something is very strange or different. The actual expression is "más raro que un perro verde" - stranger than a green dog. Well, the place wasn't at all strange but the food was different to that served in this area. What I loved about it most was the location - a green bungalow with a beautiful garden. We sat inside though as the table we were assigned was in the shade and it was not warm enough. How can I describe the food? Well, different, I suppose with lots of Asian dishes, such as curry or South American dishes, like "bao" (from Venezuela) but they were good. The desserts looked English with things like Apple Crumble and Lemon Meringue Pie on the menu. I went for the latter which was divine. Overall, the food was very good and I suppose that is why "El Perro Verde" is so popular.
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| Eladio leaving El Perro Verde restaurant yesterday after lunch |
Before going up to our room we took the car into A Guarda in search of a supermarket to get a toothbrush for Eladio and some shampoo both of which we had forgotten to bring. Once back in our room I have to admit we spent the whole afternoon there quietly until, yes, once again, it was time for dinner. We returned to Hotel Molino and were ushered to the best seat on the terrace overlooking Portugal.
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| Dinner last night with views of Portugal across the estuary. |
What a marvelous setting it was. As to the food, it wasn't marvelous but was quite acceptable. We had fish of course and I also had a scallop served the Galician way - baked and grilled in an onion sauce. This was it.  |
| Scallops are served like this in Galicia |
Afterwards we slowly walked back to our hotel - just 200m or so and back into our pleasant and large room. Netflix entertained me until I fell asleep. This morning I woke up at 8 am, which rather wowed me as I am never up so late. I seem to be sleeping very well here.
Today, my friends, is Sunday 21st August and, as you know, our wedding anniversary. We hugged to celebrate our day and then went down for breakfast. I am now writing this post in our room and afterwards we plan to take the other walkway by the coast, the one that leads to the Port of Pasaxe from where the taxi boats take you across to Portugal. The only thing planned for today is our anniversary dinner which you will read about in next week's blog post from Oporto. We are leaving for Oporto or Porto (in English) on Wednesday and it will be my first visit in over 40 years. For Eladio it's his first time. But for now we are enjoying Galicia.
Cheers then friends and readers. I wish you all the best until next week.
Masha
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