Last day in Montrondo and so to El Cuetu, a fabulous week in Asturias, Elliots "graduation" photos, heatwave, bathing in the sea, visiting Comillas and Ribadasella and other stories.

 Sunday, 19th June, 2022

In Ribadasella yesterday by the Marina beach. 

Good morning everyone from lush and green Asturias on the north coast of Spain. We have now been here for nearly a week. Before I recount our time here, let me wind back to last Sunday when we were still at our house in Eladio's village, Montrondo.

As we were leaving the next day we had to wash the sheets and towels and Eladio performed a task outside which I had to record. You see he was sharpening his father's old scythe which he would later use to cut down the grass in the field behind our house. That is not something many people use these days. For Eladio it is a symbol of his youth. As a boy, he used it every summer with his father to cut the grass from their fields to make hay for the cows and it was hard work. Thus he is something of an expert. 

Eladio sharpening his father's old scythe

Not many people know how to use one and in Montrondo probably only those aged 65 or more.  A scythe in Spanish is called a "guadaña" in Spanish and I just loved watching my multi task and multi talented husband sharpen his. Thus I did a little interview in which I asked him what a scythe was used for, how he learned to use it and his memories of using it when he was young. You can watch the interview here on my YouTube channel. 

My husband has his feet firmly on the ground, having been brought up on a farm in rural and poor Spain just after the Civil War. He is so cultured too as you know and that I think that is one of the things that most attracted me to him. In the car on the way here, he and his brother were talking about their education at the seminary in León where they suffered much hardship but learned so much. At one stage in the conversation my husband, who last week recited verses  to me in French from a poem by Victor Hugo, this week recited whole passages from the Bible in  Hebrew; verses and verses. I have heard him before reciting passages from the bible in both Greek and Latin but never in Hebrew.  What a memory he has or rather what a superb education he had.   I was once again amazed by him. He didn't think he had done anything special but oh he had at least in my eyes. 

But back to last Sunday in Montrondo. It was a lovely sunny day and that morning we went on the short but beautiful walk to the nearest village, Murias. I love Montrondo in June when nature is at its best. We took the old path where the grass had grown quite high and was still a little wet from the rain the day before. The sun shone though and soon everything would be dry.

On our walk to Murias last Sunday

We came home for a coffee as there are no bars open at midday in Murias and while my husband cut the grass in the fields with his sharpened scythe.  I made our lunch: "bacalhau à brás". Sorry I didn't take a pic. 

Meanwhile Oli and her family were in the middle of their beach holiday in Oliva in the Valencia region. I was happy to see a super photo of Elliot in his element on the beach. He is so big now and not yet 3 and isn't he lovely?

Elliot looking radiant last Sunday in Oliva

The afternoon was quiet and most of Eladio's family left in the late afternoon. It was our last night in the village and everything was peaceful. 

I was awake just before 7 am on Monday morning. We had aimed to leave at 10.30 and at 10.30 we left. Coming with us were Eladio's brother and wife, Toño and Dolores. It was to be their first trip to Asturias to see our "new house". So it was goodbye Montrondo. I took one last look at the house and wanted to share this photo with you. We finished building it in 2015 and are still in love with it. The only drawback and it is quite a big one  is that it is sandwiched in between two other houses that belong to Eladio's family. That's because it was the original family house and the buildings next to it were annexes which have now been turned into houses. We really should have built a new house on a different plot of land in the village but never thought about it at the time. In any case we still love it. 

Our house in Montrondo.

The journey to El Cuetu takes 2.5 hours. Montrondo is in the province of León, next to Asturias but El Cuetu is on the far east side of Asturias, bordering on Cantabria so is quite far away. We stopped for a coffee at a bar in Campomanes, got lost a bit and finally arrived in Llanes - that lovely coastal town -  about 14km from us - at 2 pm. We were to have lunch there but first I wanted to go to Aramburu, that gourmet store, to get provisions mainly for our dinners. 

Lunch was at the Hotel El Sablon right next to the town beach of the same name. It was cloudy and grey but warm; typical of Asturias and people were actually bathing. The restaurant is one we like for its views, The menu of the day had its faults but served its purpose.

Where we had lunch on Monday in Llanes

From Llanes we went straight home. I wondered what our guests would think of the house. We love it but it has its faults too. After settling in, Dolores and I drove to Posada to get more provisions while the men sat on the terrace outside the house talking. They like being together. Later we joined them over a bottle of Rueda wine and pistachios before we had a rather too heavy dinner in the kitchen.

I think we all slept well that night. On Tuesday morning I woke up to grey skies. I just hoped the sun would come out for our guests to enjoy El Cuetu and surroundings in the sunshine.  It was warm and the sun did come out later as often happens here. 

If I was happy to be back, so was Pippa, our miniature chocolate dachshund. Here she is asking to go in the house. Notice all the geraniums. Houses here are always decorated with flowers - mostly geraniums and hydrangeas and the house without them would look quite plain.

Pippa, happy to be back in El Cuetu

On our first full day here, it was Eladio who suggested the plan for the day. We would drive to Llanes, walk on the Paseo de San Pedro, come down and have a coffee at La Galerna in the main square and then walk across town to the other beach, Playa de Toró, and have lunch at the Mirador de Toró. We stuck to his plan, except that it was market day and in between the coffee and lunch, Dolores and I had a field day as we both adore markets. Here are some pictures of the morning.

Dolores on the San Pedro walkway

Eladio checking his phone on the San Pedro walkway

After our coffee we walked to the pretty little port in Llanes and there was the weekly market. My sister-in-law and I had to inspect every stall. I came across one with attractive baby clothes. Not sure of Juliet and Elliot's sizes, I had to ring Oli and send her photos. She was at the beach at the time but soon told me both the sizes and what clothing she liked best. I liked her choices and was happy with my purchases.

Buying clothes for Elliot and Juliet at the market in Llanes on Tuesday

From the market we went on the other walkway in Llanes - Paseo de San Antón - which takes you past the harbour where we could see fishing boats coming in or leaving. It's a beautiful walk too and some of the houses are magnificent. So is the Toró beach. 

Playa de Toró in Llanes

It was at the Mirador de Toró restaurant where we had our lunch. I had discovered it when I was here last time with Sandra and Adele. It is very popular because of the excellent food and its prime position overlooking the mountains and the pretty beach.

Finally while we were there the clouds lifted and the sun came out. If it was about 24ºc in Llanes the rest of Spain, below the north coast, was sweltering with temperatures reaching 40ºc in Madrid that day. I thanked my lucky stars we were somewhere much cooler. 

The lunch was brilliant. My fellow diners went for the rice with lobster and I chose mini scallops and a seafood salad. It was all washed down by local cider; so typical in this area. Here are my fellow diners about to dig into the rice.

Lunch at El Mirador de Toró on Tuesday

That was to be the end of our day out, except for a stop for an ice cream by the port on our way to the car. We came home to rest. Everyone did their own thing. My thing was to read outside on the terrace. This week I enjoyed a book by the  Afghan doctor Waheed Arian .  Called "In the wars", I  was inspired to read it after I saw an article in The Times about this heroic and inspiring man who survived the Red Army, the Taliban, and made his way to the UK where he was imprisoned at the age of 15. Remarkably he went on to study medicine, his lifelong dream, at Cambridge and today works for the NHS. But he is much more than that and his story is very inspiring. This is my sort of book and I loved it. 

Later we all convened around the table on our modest terrace. We also did some "gardening" or rather pruning and watering of the flowers which were wilting quite a lot. I was happy with the result. And as we dud the day before, we had an "aperitivo" on the terrace before dinner. This time it was local cider and some fancy crisps. Here is Eladio pouring the cider which you have to do from as high as you can so as that it has more sparkle. 

Cider with crisps (not with Rosie) on Tuesday evening. 

We didn't have dinner proper until 10 pm. The days here are so long as we approach Midsummer and it gets officially dark at 10.04 pm. Once again that night I slept remarkably well.

Wednesday came and it was to be the warmest day I have ever experienced here with temperatures rising to 26ºc but nowhere near as hot as in Madrid where it was sweltering at about 40ºc.  Later in the week Asturias was also affected by the heat wave in Spain. We decided it was to be a beach day and took along our swimming costumes, flip flops and towels. We wanted to show Toño and Dolores our favourite beach, the one with the unfortunate name of Póo which has no meaning in Spanish btw. It was sunny when we left the village but the beach was covered in clouds and the views which are usually so spectacular with the backdrop of the Picos de Europa mountains were not visible. It felt strange. However the sun was out in parts and it was very warm with people on the beach. We had a coffee first at the hotel there which, if we didn't have a house in the area, would be the ideal location for a holiday.

Coffee by the clouded beach of Póo on Wednesday

The tide was out and, similar to lots of English beaches, we had to walk quite a way to the edge of the water. Plenty of people were bathing there and I was dashed I wasn't wearing my swimming costume. Silly, me. But I did enjoy paddling and the water was cold but tolerable.

Eladio and Toño walking in the surreal fog towards the sea

Soon, though the cloud lifted and we walked the other way to the far end of the beach towards inland, to the village of Póo. We had never been that far as usually the tide was in. What a wonderful walk it was, what a wonderful quirky geological marvel we were submerged in. I haven't been to Costa Rica or Nicargua but it looked similar which such rich and lush vegetation.

Walking to the end of the beach while the tide was out

We then walked up the cliff we think is a peninsula. We had to navigate the cows though. But I didn't mind as I love cows and most 4 legged animals. I love the contrast with nature and beaches. That is the magic of Asturias and most of Spain's green coast. 

Up on the top overlooking the beaches but there was not much visibility I'm afraid

It was walking down the cliff when we realised we were in the fenced off cow part of our walk and we had to climb under the electrified wire. I caught Eladio doing so in this very funny picture. Thank goodness we are still supple enough to do so at our ages.

Eladio climbing under the electrified cow fence above the Póo beach on Wednesday

From Póo we drove to the tiny village of El Mazuco, nestled in the mountains prior to the Picos de Europa. We had booked a table at "El Roxin", quite a famous restaurant and funny that there should be one in such a village. However, El Mazuco is well known for fighting during the Spanish Civil War - apparently 2000 people lost their lives there. It has also featured in the odd Spanish film. What Mazuco has going for it though are the views of the valley below. The road leads to Llanes but it is a torturous one. "Roxin" has its own farm and everything they serve comes from it or at least that is what it says on the menu. Eladio and Toño went for the goat stew and Dolores and I had lamb chops. Both were delicious but the portions were so big, we took a doggy bag home which would be next day's lunch. 

As we walked out of the restaurant I admired the view from the village. This looked like Switzerland with  lower mountains, but just as beautiful. 

El Mazuco or rather views from it. Spectacular

Once home, the men had their proverbial siesta while Dolores watched something on TV and I sat outside enjoying my book. Later we all convened on the terrace where we sat most evenings. However we had to go out, leaving our magical place, to buy some milk for our breakfasts. I drove and Dolores went with me to Puente Nuevo where the nearest shop is located. Once home, I realised I had left my phone at the shop. I wasn't much worried as people in this area are known for their honesty in general. Had it been Seville for example I probably wouldn't have got it back but I did. 

We had our aperitif at around 9 - pistachios, almonds and cider - which meant I was not hungry for dinner. No one was really. The day ended like it had most days with me falling asleep watching something on Netflix,  mostly re watching Borgen. 

Again I slept well but was up earlier on Thursday morning at 6.20. It was going to be even warmer that day and I was determined I would get my bathe on one of the local beaches. We did my friends and it was marvelous. 

As usual though we had a leisurely breakfast. Every day here I have arranged a buffet breakfast in the mornings as each and every one of us has a radically different choice.  Eladio goes for kefir with fruit, sultanas and walnuts.  Dolores has cottage cheese with marmalade, Toñó has toast, fruit and yoghurt and I, as you probably know, always have porridge and an orange with coffee of course. We then did some washing. Usually here as it is quite damp, clothes take a long time to dry but not on Thursday which was possibly the warmest day here with temperatures reaching an unheard of 30ºc, 10 degrees less than in Madrid though. 

Every morning too we have tended to the flowers, the geraniums and hydrangeas which in this heat need water every day. When we came they were all wilted. Now they look splendid after all my dead heading and Eladio's watering. Without them the house would not look as pretty as it does. Everyone in this area decorates their houses with flowers and I love that. Hence the photo below of me looking out of our new stable door with all the geraniums. We took a few more photos which you can see below.

Fabulous to be back at our little house - Casa del Cuetu - in Asturias. Love our stable door.

Our house, Casa del Cuetu

Did I ever tell you I love stable doors? I always have. It has to do with my love of animals no doubt.

By 11 ish we were on the road for a short drive to the nearest beaches. I think it is about 7km to Playa de Niembru, a pretty beach side village. The tide was completely out so we continued on to Barro. It's a relatively small but beautiful beach. I have not often seen it on a warm day with people bathing. We have been so lucky here in that the weather was great yet there were not too many people on holiday. Those that were, were mostly retired people like us hahaha.

Playa de Barro

Here we had a coffee at the hotel on the beach and stayed there for a while. We could have bathed there but we were keen to show our guests other beaches. There are so many in the area of Llanes it is difficult to choose.  Llanes has 50km of coast and 38 beaches! Although Póo is my favourite, I love all of them. We drove on towards Celorio and stopped at the Playa de Borizo where we had once been and it was so windy we had to turn back. But not on Thursday. It was a marvelous day, the perfect beach day and I was determined to bathe. We didn't have beach chairs so had to make do with sitting on rocks and on the sand. As soon as we were in our bathing costumes, Eladio and I made a beeline to the water with Pippa following us. I should point out that she hates water and always avoids it. However, she found herself in a difficult situation as she wanted to be with us and hesitatingly followed us, although she was terrified of the water. Before she had to swim, which she hates, I scooped her up in my arms like a baby and took her out of the sea. Fortunately Toño and Dolores were on the shore and they were her refuge. The water was marvelous with the odd wave to surf over and not too cold. Oh how I loved my first bathe in this area since shortly after we bought the house in September 2020. 

Later we had to wash and dry Pippa who was still trembling poor lamb. I then kept her wrapped in a towel until she left  - like a baby hahha.  She wouldn't be going in the water again.

Pippa being dried after her adventure in the sea at Playa de Borizo

We could have had lunch at a nearby restaurant but had lots to eat from doggy bags so went home. Before I heated everything up we all had a much needed shower. Then we ate a bit too heartily. I suppose the sea air builds up an appetite.

The afternoon was warm and I sat outside finishing my book in the shade. It was during my quiet time that Oli sent us some beautiful photos of Elliot taken by the nursery. They were for his "graduation". He will be turning 3 in September and starting school proper. His nursery will hold a graduation ceremony at the end of this month which we shall go to. I find it funny that babies can graduate hahahha. But I loved the photos. I wonder how the photographer got the kids to pose properly. People remarked to me that he looks like Eladio. Does he? What he does look is jaw dropping gorgeous in my view as a non impartial grandmother hahahaha.

Elliot's nursery "graduation" photos"

I wonder if I will get to go to his University graduation ceremony in over 20 years time? When he was born my father told Oli "I hop he has a productive life". What wise words. So, do I. 

Believe it or not at about 7 pm it started to rain but it didn't last long. The rain freshened up the air and we sat outside again after dinner. Like old times, Dolores and I played Ludo which we thoroughly enjoyed while the men were both on their PCs in the kitchen consuming very different content to what I would consume. 

After more episodes of Borgen I went up to sleep past midnight I think and once again slept like a baby.  I was up at around 7 am on Thursday morning. Eladio's brother was keen to visit the pretty seaside town of Comillas in the next province to ours, in Cantabria, near Santander. That's because as a young man he studied at the famous University and Seminary there; a very imposing building. We have been there a couple of time recently  but Comillas is always worth the visit.

We stopped though first at Posada - our nearest town- for more provisions. Dolores and I were in luck again as it was market day. This time we didn't buy anything as it has generally all the same rubbish these days at  most markets the world round with some exceptions.

It was market day in Posada on Friday

It was only around 11 am but boy was it hot. On Friday the temperatures reached 39ºc, according to our neighbour in El Cuetu. That is totally unheard of in Asturias and is a clear indication of climate change. I hoped for another bathe in the sea but there wasn't enough time if we wanted to have a coffee at midday, see Comillas, visit the old University and have lunch. Thus we sweltered from the moment we set foot in Comillas. We had a coffee in the main square where there was another market which looked better than the one in Posada. I was in luck that day as I finally found the sandals I had been searching for - flat and white or whitish and the type that cover bunions. I hate my bunions which I inherited from my mother and which she, no doubt, inherited from hers. Never mind about them. The new sandals were perfect, very comfortable and hide my ugly feet. I have a pleasant face, nice green eyes, not a particularly nice body but awful feet hahahha. None of us is every entirely satisfied with our body or maybe a handful of people but very few.

Enough about my feet which I needed to walk back to our car which was sweltering too. We drove to the imposing Seminary, now a private University which of course for my brother-in-law meant so much. The building is unique and enormous. 

The old Seminary and University in Comillas

Friday was by far the hottest day and at 1.30 pm it was nearly unbearable. I looked forward to stepping inside the building to feel the cool. We got tickets for a guided visit which turned out to be a wrong choice. The young guide was a bit of a Taliban about the visiting rules - no one could be out of her sight, we couldn't touch anything and of course no dogs. Pippa stayed outside in the extreme heat but in the shade. The guide spent about half an hour on the steps in the strong sunshine explaining the main door. If she took that long to explain the door how long would the visit last? I looked it up on internet and read that it would last 1.5h. Thus we left which wasn't easy as we were not allowed to leave alone as the guide had to have the whole group within eyesight. Once outside and on our way to the car with Pippa we were told off by the security guard for taking a dog with us in the grounds!!! I left thinking what awful rules and staff. One saving grace though was the view from above. From the main door I spied the Castle of the Marquess of Comillas and a beautiful church designed by the famous Catalan architect, Gaudi. 

The view from the old University in Comillas on Friday

By then it was time for lunch and we headed to the small village of Caviedes where we had booked a table at a restaurant called Cofiño. It was recommended to us by our friend Gerardo who knows the area like the back of his hand. I couldn't believe the heat when we got out of the car. Once again no dogs were allowed so Pippa had to stay outside tied to a tree in the shade. We gave her a bowl of water. She drank it gratefully. Before we left I poured a whole bowl of fresh water all over her for her to cool down. It wasn't exactly cool in the restaurant where I imagine they use the air con about 3 times a year but that day it could have been stronger. Gerardo had recommended the local bean stew (cocido montañes), the fried squid (rabas) and meat balls. He also told us the portions would be enormous. That's no issue here as we always take a doggy bag home. Thus we would be eating the same again yesterday.

Lunch at Cofiño on Friday

Cofiño lived up to the recommendation. We loved it. The only but is that the menu is a bit lacking; lots of heavy food but then again in Cantabria that is pretty much the norm as it is in Asturias.

The drive back takes 45m and we came home to more extreme heat. No way could I sit outside on the terrace that afternoon. So I had a shower, washed my hair and on purpose did not dry it so as to feel the cool for a while. Again though that night it rained and cooled the air a bit. Again we had our aperitif outside and just fruit  for dinner and a little almond cake each - naughty but nice. 

It was the hottest night ever and I found it difficult to sleep but eventually my eyes shut - rather late, after 1 am, I think. I was up at 7 am on Saturday, Toño and Dolores' last day with us here. The forecast was for warm weather - 26ºc - so we decided to take our guests to a new beach, Guadamía, in Pría, near the famous Bufones de Pría (sort of geysers that emerge from rocks in the field) but oh boy the weather forecast was wrong. When we got out of the car it was freezing and definitely not beach weather. I had to content myself with the view of this unique little beach; another gem in this area.

Playa de Guadamia

None of us was wearing a coat or a jumper as we had expected a hot day. As we couldn't bathe we decided to visit the pretty coastal town of Ribadasella, one of the most famous holiday towns in Asturias .We had our coffee on the main street lined with enticing shops - mostly boutiques, where we have bought clothes before. I was so cold I bought myself a cardigan which I will need today and tomorrow as the temperature has plummeted today. 

Coffee in Ribadasella

While the two brothers engaged in conversation, Dolores and I explored the shops. Before returning to El Cuetu, I wanted to show them the main town beach, Playa de la Marina, with its magnificent "indiana" houses where I could happily live. 

La Marina beach in Ribadasella

We had to have photos and finally I got one of the 4 of us when a kind passerby who was from Argentina but with Spanish roots, offered to take one. 

In Ribadasella yesterday

He also took the one of Eladio and I illustrating this week's blog post. 

If it had been warm we would probably have stayed at the beach but it wasn't so we drove home which is about 20km or so away, not too far. 

The afternoon was much cooler and conducive to reading outside  surrounded by flowers and a bit too much noise from the neighbours who were repairing a motorbike! Then the rain came and brought with it the end of the heatwave. That means no more bathing in the sea here. But we have had our fill of sea and mountain air here and have relaxed and slept well. This has been a holiday to remember.

Today my brother and sister-in-law will be leaving but we hope they come again. We shall probably be returning home to Madrid tomorrow or on Tuesday so have a bit more time to enjoy here.

Now I have come to the end of this week's tales, I must leave you to get on with the day. Cheers everyone, until next Sunday.

Masha