Saturday, July 13, 2019

A quiet and hot week, the girls are back, chilling in the garden, "The last Czars" and our connection with Felix Yusupov and other stories.

Madrid, 14th July, 2019

Suzy and Eladio chilling under the trees by the pool this week. We spent most afternoons doing that this week.

Good morning my friends.  If you are French then let me say I hope you have an enjoyable Bastille Day. It's going to be another scorcher for us which I am not looking forward to. 

The week has been quiet. Last Sunday we went for our walk early and came back to find our Taiwanese guests, Jason, Sarah and Peter, had already left. I was sorry not to say goodbye in person as they were lovely people. Later they gave me a 5 star review, bless them. It's good to keep the ratings up as that maintains my super host status.  Bashra was also leaving but had come back from her Moroccan wedding at 6 am and thus didn't leave until past 1 pm.

Lucy, with a little bit of help from me, got the rooms ready for the next guests who were arriving on Monday. That meant the house was pretty empty on Sunday which was rather nice for a change. We had a quiet day only going out for our walk. The afternoon was spent by the pool with the dogs and reading together quietly.

We did not hear from the girls in Montrondo but not doubt they were having a lovely time. I want to go too soon and maybe we will this week.  How I long to escape from this heat to the cool of the mountains there.

The day ended with us watching the fascinating new series on Netflix about Nicholas and Alexandra and the downfall of the Monarchy in Russia which lead to the revolution.  Called "The last Czars", part documentary, part drama,  It is right up our street. Oh, I hate Rasputin though. The series makes it very clear he is one of the main reasons for their downfall.
A scene from The Last Czars on Netflix which we watched this week. 

Monday would be a busier day. I was up quite late for me at 7 am.  After writing a bit of this blog, I went on our morning walk with Eladio. It was warm and sunny but actually Monday turned out to be one of the coolest days of the week with the temperature only topping 30ºc. What a relief. That morning we went out on errands. I finally got to send my father's book to some close friends, ex pupils of my father and relatives: Sandra and Magda, Maggie, Brenda, Anne, Andrei, Daniel, Richard and Valya. Each book weighs 600 grammes which made for a total postage payment of 130 euros, more than what the books cost. I think it's the most I've ever spent at a post office. I just hoped they would like the book. So far I got feedback from Sandra, Magda and from my dear friend Anne from Finland. She wrote: "Only on page 13 and already in tears. "This is the biggest act of love I have seen anyone do for their loved one, you are amazing". Sandra wrote: "We are both SO impressed with what you have achieved. And your dad's amazing life story. And his amazing daughter! Masha, you are unbelievable. And we love you lots". Magda, her 90 odd year old mother, a Jewish survivor of WW2, wrote: "Thank you for the book. I enjoyed reading it. wonderfully written. Not only did you write about your father but now I know a lot about your life too. I think you are becoming a writer. Very talented. Looking forward to your mother's life story too, if you can find out details in Russia." That will be difficult". Indeed it will. What lovely feedback from my dear friends. Indeed too the book was written with love for my father, a lot of it. 

From the post office we went to the chemist, the Chinese shop (equivalent to a sort of Poundland) to change something and then to do more food shopping at Carrefour Market, the gourmet supermarket I so favour in our area. I was home on time to finish making lunch  - a summer "cocido madrileño" and also to cook the prawns for a salad for dinner that night for when the girls came back from Montrondo.

I was also busy getting the green room ready for our next guests, Nora and her friend Karin from Norway. It looked lovely when it was ready with the flowers (pink and white hydrangeas) and the plate of tantalising fruit including some thick black cherries that are in season now.

We had a short siesta and at about 3.45 I came down to make a cup of tea and read. It sure felt cooler that day under the trees by the pool. At about 5.15 our guests arrived. The two Norwegian girls are very young  and are kindergarten teachers just starting in their career. They arrived by taxi without their own transport, despite my insistence they hire a car. Thus I knew they would have limited means of going shopping, etc. They were soon down by the pool and I was surprised to seem them in quite old fashioned clothing for such young girls. Or maybe their way of dress is the height of fashion in Norway. Who knows?  Later I took them shopping and had to urge them to buy things like ice cream or chocolate. They didn't even want alcohol and have to be my only Scandinavian guests not to have bought any. They got shop made pizza instead. Karin wanted "crusty bread" and I showed her the bread counter. It turned out she wanted "cracker bread", showed me a photo and I lead her to where they sell Ryvita which is called Wasa here. Once home, they unpacked their food, swam a bit, played some table tennis outside and waited for the oven to heat to bake their pizza. Meanwhile I peeled over 30 prawns for a summer salad for our dinner. The girls arrived just as I was in the throes of making it. It was good to see them. They had come back relaxed after 3 days in the village. Oli had to leave to go and pick up Miguel while Suzy, Eladio and I laid the table.

Oli and Miguel joined us just as we were finishing dinner on the kitchen terrace and I think appreciated my efforts with the prawn, avocado and mango salad. This was it before we polished it off.
Dinner on Tuesday night
We were up late talking around the table and we missed the news but of course as I keep up with it during the day I knew the main topics. One was the leaked mails from the UK Ambassador in the US which included scathing comments about Donald Trump. The US President has said now he will have no dealings with him (later in the week he resigned). The "special relationship" will no doubt be in trouble and this has caused a major diplomatic issue. On a much nicer note, at Wimbledon, Nadal, Federer and Djokovic all cruised through the last sixteen rounds and would not meet until the quarter finals on Wednesday which they would cruise through too.  The big three are all in their mid or late 30's and there is really no competition from the younger ranks.  Meanwhile in the ladies tennis, the 15 year old thunderbolt, Coco Gauff, who made an astonishing debut at Wimbledon, was finally knocked out in the Last 16 by Simona Halep. No doubt though, she will be the next big player in women's tennis and will be back and win Wimbledon one day.

As were clearing up after dinner there was a freak thunderstorm which thankfully cooled the air. It meant we could sleep at last without the aircon. There was lots of lightening and thunder but hardly any rain.

We went to bed late and watched episodes 3 and 4 of The Last Czars and got to the bit where Felix Yusupov kills Rasputin. One of my family's claim to fame is that my Mother's family were both friends and relatives of the Yusupovs.  My mother's godmother was Felix' mother, Zinaida Yusopov, who the family called "Aunty Fairy" because "she was such a lovely person". The Yusupovs were the richest family in Russia. The direct contact  is that my mother's maternal grandmother, Olga née Ribeaupierre, was the first cousin of Zinaida, also a Ribeaupierre before she married. Here I have a photo of both cousins probably taken in 1905 or so just as events were getting ugly in Russia.
My mother's maternal grandmother Olga Stachovich née Ribeaupierre (right) with her cousin Zinaida Yusupov née Ribeaupierre in about 1905 in Moscow.
In fact the family were so close they escaped the revolution together towards the very end. In 1920 it is said the two families including Felix Yusupov, got on the same ship, one of the last that King George V sent to rescue white Russians. My grandmother, Sophie Lieven, née Stachovich was pregnant with my mother on that voyage and who was born later in the former Russian Embassy in Rome where the families lived for a while hoping to return to Russia. That's how my mother came to have such an illustrious godmother.  Here is a painting of Zinaida Yusupov which hangs in the Yusupov palace - now a museum in St. Petersburg - and which my mother always had a copy of.
Zinaida Yusupov all in gold in a painting that hangs in their former palace in St. Petersburg
On my only ever trip to St. Petersburg in 2004 I visited the palace and saw the painting which I recognised immediately. While there, I imagined my mother's family visiting the Yusupovs or attending one of their famed lavish parties. So, of course you can now understand why I was watching with great interest the new series on the downfall of the Tsar and Tsarina. No doubt the Yusupovs knew them well and no doubt my mother's own family, the Lievens, would have known them too.

We watched it until well into the night, just as Rasputin finally met his death. But it was too late, the damage he had caused with his great influence on the Tsarina and hers on the Tsar, all because he could cure the hemophiliac son, Alexei, the Tsaravich, was too great for any undoing of it after the monk's death and history would take its course.

Tuesday came and it turned out to be the second coolest day of the week with the temperature only reaching 30ºc again which was came as a respite. It was on Tuesday that Airbn notified me that I am a super host again. I have been one since shortly after starting on this adventure which brings people of so many nationalities to come to our house. It always gives me a kick to get the badge and at the same time I strive as much as possible to keep the status always worried some guests won't be happy here and will give me a low rating, like the unpleasant Moroccan boys recently. But for now I am still a super host and hope to keep the status as long as possible.
Super host again with Airbnb!
If that gave me a kick, something else totally different gave me the surprise of the day. I noticed on LinkedIn that the post for my most recent blog had been read or followed by the FBI again (yes) but also this time by the Foreign and Commonwealth Office. I wonder why these two institutions are interested in my blog? It's either employees surfing for fun who have found me or that I am being followed for my comments on politics or stories of spies in my father's biography. I prefer to think it's the former and not the latter. The latter is a little frightening and very Big brotherish. 
Interesting to see that both the FBI and the Foreign and Commonwealth Office follow my blog!
That morning, Eladio and I went out on errands again. We went to get a mobile phone car adapter for Eladio to use Google Maps as his preferred sat nav in his car. He had been using an old "tom tom" which after using our phones during our trip to the UK and Ireland, he wants to use here too so as to replace the out of date "tom tom".  He is right, no sat nav system is as good as Google Maps.  We got it at the big Carrefour in Majadahonda. Whilst there I wanted to look for some new sun beds for Montrondo as one had broken and the one that is left is very uncomfortable. I wanted the rocking or swinging type where you can lie back with your legs up and either read or even sleep comfortably. We found some really cheap pink ones which were actually quite comfortable. We then went to see if there was anything better at Leroy Merlin (LM) and Verdecora but in the end went back to Carrefour to get the pink ones. We got 4; 2 for Montrondo and 2 to go under the trees by the pool at home. I'm not sure I like the colour by our pool but I can assure you they are really comfortable. I used them that afternoon and was delighted with the result. 
Our new swinging or rocking pink sunbeds that are so comfortable
It was full house for lunch on Tuesday except for Suzy who teaches usually from 12 to 3 or 3.30. My father was happy to see Olivia again and commented to her that he thought the name they had chosen for their baby, "Elliot", was very distinguished. 

Later both Miguel and Oli left to go back to their flat where they would stay this week and Suzy went off to an afternoon private lesson, leaving us "home alone". The Norwegian girls were out too so we had the house and garden to ourselves. 

The day ended with dinner on the kitchen patio table with Suzy and then upstairs to bed to watch more of The Last of the  Czars. It was as I walked from Oli's room to ours that I noticed the high windows that had recently been cleaned by professional window cleaners. The light was lovely and the view was stunning of the greenery and flowers from our garden. We live in this great big house and often take it for granted. However, I stopped that night, took a look, loved what I saw and took a photograph. It seemed to me that with a window view like that no pictures can be as good. It's nothing special I suppose but it made me happy.
The window and view from the upstairs hall in our house. A wonderful sight.
That night we got to the part when the Tsar and his family are about to be assassinated.  I was nearly asleep so suggested we watch the gruesome chapter the following night. 

I didn't sleep badly as it was so much cooler that night and we didn't need the aircon either for a change. But I was awake quite early on Wednesday morning at 6.30.

Wednesday was a good day. It was just Eladio, the dogs and me on our walk that day as Suzy was busy preparing her lessons. We did the food shopping that day for the second time this week - oh how full our fridge was - and I made a Portuguese dish for lunch, one of our favourites. Called "bacalhau à brás", it's a great favourite with our Iberian neighbours and is made of cod, onion, finely sliced chips, parsley and eggs. In a way it's a sort of scrambled eggs. This is the recipe I used.
My bacalhau à brás which I made on Wednesday for lunch
My father loved it and even Suzy, usually a vegetarian and sometimes vegan, tried it as it was just so delicious.

After my siesta, Suzy invited me out to do some clothes shopping. I had no need for any clothes as I have so many, but I was happy to join her. We went to a big "mall" called Gran Plaza 2 in Majadahonda. Here she bought lots of dresses at H+M or rather one dress and two short pant type dresses. She looked lovely in them.  When we got home we had  a sort of fashion show by the pool and this is one of the pictures I took.  Elsa managed to get into most of them apart from the one below. I love her in this dress and laughing her head off as I said something very naughty to make her laugh and which I can't repeat here hahaha. The next day when Suzy was out, I tried on this dress and it actually looked good on me which was surprising as I am so short (5.4ft) and I didn't think long dresses suited me. If there is an occasion maybe, with Suzy's permission, I shall wear it.
My beautiful daughter Suzy in one of her new dresses
We arrived back to find Eladio reading on one of the new sun beds which are so comfortable. I took this photo of him to remember the moment.
Eladio chilling out on one of the new sun beds on Wednesday
After the fashion show, we joined him. Well, Suzy did, as I had a swim. I love the photo I took of them chilling out under the trees with Norah in the background. That's the photo I have chosen for this week's feature photo as it sort of sums up this week. We have nearly every afternoon reading by the pool and generally chilling out in the afternoons. How nice to be joined by Suzy. Every moment we have with her I treasure as I know we won't have her for long. The latest thinking on her part is that she will return to her beloved Bali straight after Christmas. Thus I intend to enjoy every moment we have with her.

As we were chilling out, Oli had just come back from a scan and sent us the results. Elliot is growing perfectly and is at 64 percentile, meaning he is a little over the average weight for a baby his size (just over 7 months) and already weighs just under 2 kilos. The doctor told Oli and Miguel he would probably weigh about 3.5kg when he is born. That was lovely news. Roll on 6th September, her due date.

There was more good news that day and it came from Wimbledon. The big three (Djokovic, Federer and Nadal) were all playing their quarter final matches. They all got through but so did another Spaniard, Roberto Bautista which meant there would be two Spaniards in the men's semi finals for the first time ever. Grass has never been a favourite for Spanish tennis players who are outstanding on clay but find grass slow. Now poor Bautista would play Djokovic who predictably beat him in a four set match. Nadal played Federer in a highly anticipated semi final on Friday echoing what must be one of the most exciting matches ever - the final in 2009. This time though it was the Swiss who beat him and who will now meet Djokovic today in the men's final.  I think that the winner will be Djokovic who seems to have the edge on them all but let's see what happens today at the All England Club.

After a delicious dinner outside, accompanied by our dogs, it was time to watch the final episode of The Last Czars (I prefer to spell it with a "t") which of course was the story of their terrible assassination. It was only in 1991 that the Soviet government finally told the world the truth, that the whole family had been killed as they had only ever admitted to killing Nicholas II. I have to say the series is great although quite flawed in many ways. I remember my mother criticising the film Dr. Zhivago for many errors - one being the way the Russians cross themselves - and no doubt she would have found fault with this series. My main complaint is the nearly complete lack of mention of the Tsar and his family being rescued, even before they were imprisoned, and going into exile possibly to England. After all George V was his first cousin. There was much talk and negotiations going on which the series hardly mentions. I am sure there are others but that for me was the most outstanding.  I also think the series tends to paint far too black a picture of both the Tsar and the Tsarina.  Of course they were not perfect and made many many mistakes which would lead to the revolution but I think the series was a little biased against them. In any case, Netflix or whoever the producer is, has made quite a unique piece of film history and I can thoroughly recommend it.

Thursday came and it was to be a scorcher as was Friday with temperatures rising to 37 and 40ºc respectively.  We went on our walk early as usual and even so it felt too warm. That day, apart from our walk, we didn't leave the house. I spent part of the morning cooking, something I love to do when I have lots of time on my hands. I made a fresh broccoli and mushroom soup and then a dish I have never made before but which I know Eladio loves: pork rib stew with potatoes. This was it and it went down very well with everyone. It's actually terribly easy to make. The ribs must be cut individually then fried until they are browned. You add chopped onion and garlic and paprika and a little fresh tomato sauce or paste. To this you add vegetable stock and potatoes.  The stew is then cooked for about 45 minutes. I was worried the meat would be hard and the potatoes soft but as the meat was pork it  cooked quite quickly. So now I have a new dish to add to my repertoire. I won't make it very often though as it is rather fatty and meat as you all know is slowly going out of fashion. It's not the ideal dish for a hot summer day but oh my was it tasty.
Pork rib stew made the Spanish way - delicious
Just as we were finishing lunch, my two Norwegian guests arrived with their friend, another Norwegian who is studying at the local Uni. They were so hot they had come home to cool off by the pool and would spend the whole afternoon there. That afternoon they came to thank me for their stay and presented me with a box of Lindt chocolates. That was so sweet. Their comment in the guest book was sweet too where they thanked me for making them feel so cared for on what was for them their first trip abroad on their own. They promised to come back. I hope they do as they were wonderful guests and so well behaved for their age; just 21.

I spent the afternoon under the trees on the new sunbeds, going in and out of the pool to cool off too. Eladio, finding it far too hot, disappeared to read in our air conditioned bedroom. Suzy was so busy with her lessons that day we only saw her fleetingly and not even for dinner as she was back late.

On Friday morning, Norah and Karin left early at 6 am to catch their 8 am flight back to cooler Oslo. That day our next set of guests would arrive, 4 English people who were coming for a wedding. There must be a lot of weddings in the area as we receive lots of wedding guests. I was looking forward to receiving English guests. It's always nice to host someone from your birth country.

If Thursday was hot, Friday was to be even hotter reaching 40ºc which is pretty unbearable. Again I spent most of the day at the house and our day was very much like the other days of the week. Suzy had a friend round for lunch, Pili - a friend from the girls' school, St. Michael's. They spent a few hours by the pool while I read.  Later Suzy accompanied me to Getafe, a dormitory town outside Madrid, where my friend Mari Carmen has her chemist shop. I wanted to get some pills for which I don't have a doctor's prescription. I had never seen her chemist shop and it was odd but nice to see her behind the counter with her white coat on. But we couldn't stay long as that evening Eladio and I were going out to dinner and Suzy was going out too - to her sister's for dinner which would be cooked by Miguel who is quite a chef I have to say.

Eladio and I went to La Txitxarrería in Pozuelo, a favourite of ours. We had one main course each and that was it apart from the bread and of course a bottle of cider that we shared. We were home by just past 9.30 and on time to meet our English guests who were supposed to be arriving at around that time. We stayed up to wait for them and they arrived a bit late after getting a bit lost. They seemed a lovely group probably in their 40's. It turns out two of them are from Yorkshire (Harrogate and Barnsley) would you believe and one of them had worked in Bradford for some years. I liked them immediately and knew they would be a pleasure to host. As soon as they had settled in, off they went to nearby Boadilla to have a tapas dinner. Meanwhile, Eladio and I went to bed to watch another episode of La Mirada. I didn't hear the guests come home but I did hear Suzy come home so went into Oli's room where she is sleeping to have a chat. Feeling wide awake, both Eladio and I watched more stuff on the TV in the hope of falling asleep but it evaded me until past 1 in the morning.  It was hot which didn't help, despite the aircon which is not very strong in our room at least.

On Saturday I was awake at 5 in the morning and finally got up at 5.45. The temperature at that time in the morning was 25ºc so I had my breakfast outside. Oh so hot my friends, I  am tired of it.  Our walk was so hot too, Eladio had to take his t-shirt off and that was at 8 am in the morning! Hopefully this morning it will be a bit better as the temperature now at 6.48 is "only" 21ºc! The heat got me down on Saturday, perhaps more than any other day. I managed to prepare lunch for everyone (Oli and Miguel were coming) and made a bean stew, another winter dish for a summer day but easy to make and which would fill everyone. My English guests slept on until about midday. I think they must have come back from their dinner on Friday night very late. I slept too, by accident. After preparing the lunch I went to lie on one of the sunbeds in the shade reading my book and although I was in the shade it was just too hot. So I went up to our air conditioned bedroom to read and promptly fell asleep until after 12. I thought my "fabada" (bean stew) would have boiled dry but thankfully it hadn't. 

Lunch with the family was the highlight of the day. I think though the only person not feeling the heat, thank goodness, is my father as his room is on the ground floor and is the coolest in the house. We spent the afternoon in our air conditioned bedroom, first having a siesta and then watching TV. I wanted to watch a new hospital series on Amazon Prime, New Amsterdam, and did so, in English, while Eladio was asleep. He is no fan of hospital series but not wanting to leave the cool room, he ended up watching it with me, although I had to switch to the dubbed Spanish version. We must have binge watched about 5 episodes only interrupted by me going down to help my guests get their clothes ironed for the wedding they were going to. It was the two men, Murray and Robert, who wanted their shirts and a suit ironing. I got Lucy to help although she protested a bit not understanding why it wasn't their English wives who were doing their ironing. It was a bit hard to explain that English women are more emancipated than Paraguayan women and for a 5 euro tip from Robert, she did the job. Definitely English women are more emancipated than Spanish women too when it comes to tasks like ironing hahha, which I tried to explain to my Spanish husband also.

Our eyes feeling dry from so much watching the box, we finally left our room at about 7.45 to go down to the pool, Eladio to clean it and me to have a bathe to cool off. Later we had dinner with Suzy who then went out to see a friend. The day ended with us watching Pedro Almodóvar's latest film, "Dolor y Gloria" which is now available on Netflix. We did not like it and found it strange and boring and just couldn't really get it, not understanding the plot or script. I wasn't happy to see Antonio Banderas taking heroin or kissing another man. In fact, it was so boring we fell asleep. Dolor y Gloria definitely has to be Almodóvar's worst film ever.

I slept on and off all night, feeling too hot even with the aircon it. The room temperature was 27ºc which is too warm for proper sleep. When we put air conditioning in the bedrooms, dining room and our study a year after moving into this house, the one we put in our room wasn't powerful enough for the size of our bedroom and never has been and we need to change it but never seem to get round to doing it. Thus I slept on and off and heard our wedding guests get home at about 3.30 in the morning. I myself got up at 5.30 and here I am now writing and complaining about my sleep and the heat to you from my desk at this time in the morning. We may well escape the heat by going for a few days to Montrondo this week but still have to make the decision.

Today is the Wimbledon final between Djokovic and Federer. May the best man win. Yesterday Serena Williams was beaten in the women's final by Simona Halep 6-2, 6-2 and later said it was the best match of her life. Serena was hoping for a 24th grand slam title to equal Margaret Court's but that was not to be as Simona made history herself as the first Romanian to ever win the title.  Today too England will play New Zealand in the final of the Cricket World Cup at Lord's Here of course I am on the side of my country's team.

Our day will be less exciting and another scorcher which you will hear about in next Sunday's post.

Meanwhile my friends, I wish you a good day and week ahead,

Cheers till next Sunday,
Masha

Saturday, July 06, 2019

Visit to Howth, last day in Dublin, home again and too hot for words, a party in Madrid, biography of my father now available on Amazon Kindle and other stories.

Sunday 7th July, 2019
At the summit of the pretty fishing village of Howth
Good morning again everyone.

It's hard to believe this time last Sunday we were still on holiday. We came home on Monday to the heat of Spain and life is back to normal. I think the memory of our trip to England, Wales and Ireland will remain with me always. It was just wonderful.

This time last Sunday we were still in Ireland and decided to visit the small fishing village of Howth and go up to the summit where I heard from an ex pupil of my father's who lives in Dublin that this is where Molly Bloom says "yes" in James Joyce's "Ulysses". It was David who recommended the visit to Howth, just 14km from the city centre. It seemed to us a suburb of the city where no doubt a lot of Dubliners live. It's a beautiful place.

We went by bus, the 31a, which luckily had a stop right outside our hotel. It was enjoyable to see more of the city and the outskirts, some of it beautiful and clean and some of it quite the opposite. The bus took us to near the summit with its sweeping views including Dublin in the distance. We walked the short way up to the top from the bus stop and were overawed when we got there. What a wonderful spot we had come to, supposedly the highest point of the peninsula on the northern edge of Dublin Bay. We learned we could take the cliff walk down to the village - some 4 km which we were keen to do, but first for some photos. The photo illustrating this week's post is of me at the summit. The view was divine and the sunny sky helped as visibility was great. It just summed up lush Ireland for me with its rugged coast and I understood why it is called "the Emerald Island". It made sense.
One of the views from Howth summit
There were various walks along the cliff back down into the village and we took the easiest as we had been warned that the walk closest to the edge was rather dangerous and that sometimes helicopters had to come out to rescue people. We didn't want to chance it. The walk down was lovely too with very few people which was a bit of a respite after the crowded city of Dublin.
Eladio on our walk down from the summit to the village
As we approached the village we took the harbour path and were rewarded with more beautiful views of the coast line. I envied the people who lived in some of the superb houses perched on the top like the white one in the photo below. What a place to live.
The view of the small beach next to the harbour from the cliffs approaching the village of Howth
Some people were swimming but then the Irish are made of hardy stuff, not like us who are used to bathing in far warmer temperatures. It was funny to think that the maximum that day in Howth and Dublin was about 18ºc and more than double that in Madrid our home town. We were not looking forward to the heat I can tell you.

We wandered along the pretty harbour and admired the views and fishing boats and then started seeing a lot of people dressed in kilts. We were in for a surprise as there was a bagpipe championship being celebrated that day. Eladio didn't know the Irish wore kilts like the Scottish. I did, but had never seen any. The pipers looked magnificent. I wondered what the difference in the music and bagpipes was and looked it up. Apparently the Irish bagpipe has three tubes rather than two.
Irish pipers in Howth last Sunday
They were a delight to watch and an unexpected surprise. How lovely to be in Ireland and be rewarded with bagpipe playing.

From the pipers, we wandered down to the end of the harbour for more beautiful views like this one.
View from the harbour of Howth
We could have taken a boat to the Eye of Ireland but we are not ones for boats. In any case we had to go as I had booked a table for lunch at 1 pm. I chose well as the Bloody Stream pub was superb. Here Eladio went for soup and Irish chowder stew again and guess what I went for? Well, fish and chips of course, the last but one I would have on our holiday. I would need to go on a strict diet upon our return as I had eaten far too much on our trip.

As soon as our lunch was finished it was time to take the bus back to Dublin. We caught it by the skin of our teeth but soon we were back in the city and it dropped us off right by our guest house. We both went straight to bed for a well earned siesta. We had walked a lot that morning but we would walk again later in the evening, totaling over 14km again that day.

We woke up and I had to decide what to do. Eladio generally just falls in with my plans hahah. I suggested we go and see the catholic cathedral, St. Patrick's the patron saint of Ireland. It was a 30 minute walk there and a bit far out of the town. Unfortunately it was closed but it was worth seeing.
St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin
We didn't want to go out to dinner so once again bought some food to have in our room. Naughtily I chose M+S and we later had a scrumptious dinner of crab meat, prawns, avocado and tomatoes followed by raspberries.
Our picnic dinner in our room on our last night in Dublin
We were in bed early and watching some silly series on my iPad which  proved to be good entertainment on our trip, until we fell asleep.

I woke up on Monday morning, the day of our return at about 6.15. We would have plenty of time on our hands on our last day as our flight home wasn't until 5.45.

So what could we do in Dublin that morning I wondered? I looked up the top things to do there and came across The Little Museum of Dublin which had rave reviews and is supposedly the favourite museum of all museums in Ireland. So that's what we did. The museum is located in an old Georgian style house across the way from St. Stephen's Green. We got there just on time for the 11 am guided tour by the delightful Lucy in period dress. I loved every minute of it. It was short, funny and very informative. One thing I shall always remember Lucy telling us was that in Irish there are 33 versions of the Spanish word "mañana" adding that not one of them has the same urgency as if "mañana" has any urgency at all.
Lucy addressing the group at the Little Museum of Dublin
We got a short history of the city and of Ireland and lots of exhibits to illustrate this. This tour was far more entertaining and informative than the Historical Walking Tour.

Once our tour was over, we didn't have much to do so decided to do some last minute shopping at M+S to get gifts for the girls and buy more of their delicious crab meat at 8 euros a tiny tub to take home. We also got some of my father's favourite sweets at a Spar opposite Trinity College. After that we decided to walk back to our guest house, retrieve our luggage and take a taxi to the airport to have lunch and twiddle our thumbs there. All we wanted really was to go home.

And that's what we did. We were there far too early even to check in, so went to the food court where Eladio chose a curry and I chose my last fish and chips of our trip. We had a long wait after checking in so I took the time to continue reading the kindle version of my father's book so as to send the corrections as soon as possible to my publisher. I continued to do that on the airplane too and on Tuesday morning sent them off hoping it wouldn't take too long for the corrected version to be uploaded on Amazon.

The flight was smooth and the plane packed with children. We had a turbulent landing but thankfully arrived safely. We arrived to a warm evening, much warmer than in Ireland but thankfully the extreme heat wave was in remission. Suzy was coming to pick us up and I couldn't wait to see her and Oli when we got home. I was also very impatient to see Pippa, my adored and spoiled miniature dachshund. We had never been parted for so long and the reunion was going to very joyful. Suzy sent me a selfie of her and Pippa taking a siesta. In my absence, our spoiled little dog had latched on to Suzy in lieu of me, following her around everywhere. Pippa always has one reference person and that's me and when I'm away it's usually Eladio. If he isn't there then it's one of the girls. So, no, I couldn't wait to see her.
Pippa and Suzy having a siesta the day we arrived.
We were home by about 10 pm and were greeted warmly by Oli, Lucy and the dogs, especially little Pippa. We spent some time with the girls and then had to do the dreaded task of unpacking. I always unpack straight away when I get home and Monday night wasn't going to be different. Just before we had arrived, our latest guests, a father and his daughter, Bea, from Eladio's family's home town of León, had already arrived and we greeted them. They were to stay 3 nights. We would have lots of guests this week. It's going to be a busy month for Airbnb guests.

I had a cold shower before going to bed as it was so hot - 30ºc in our room. However, there was a breeze outside so we slept with the windows open and the ceiling fan on all night. The following days would be literally boiling although nothing like last week according to our daughters. It was a huge shock to the system coming from the cool British Isles and Ireland to scorching Madrid, however much we are used to the heat here. Climate change is the culprit though of the extreme weather we are having and it is difficult to bear even for someone like me who quite likes the heat.

I woke up at 6. 30 a.m. Spanish time and decided to get up and get on with the day. The heat got the better of me and I had a headache and felt tired all day. In a way I longed to be back in England or Wales but not so much Dublin which I found far too crowded.

It was good to greet my father and give him all my presents - mostly sweet tooth related, including Joanne's milk chocolate aero bars which he much appreciated. He was looking good and told me that Lucy had taken very good care of him. I was pleased to hear that.

I spent most of the day settling in and getting used to being home again and that was difficult with the heat. The best moments of the day were lunch with my father in the air conditioned dining room and dinner with the girls on the terrace.  There wasn't much "food in the cupboard" so Suzy and I went out briefly to stock up a bit. We also had  a coffee together at El Kiosko. She was busy for the rest of the day with her lessons and had to give her online ones in our air conditioned room poor girl. I also spent time by the pool - the only place to be during the afternoon - but even that was too hot and I just kept going into the water to cool off, sometimes taking little Pippa in with me but making sure not to wet her head which she hates. Elsa went in off her own bat which again is usual but it was just so hot. Norah, despite suffering the heat won't go near the water, silly dog hahaha. All three dogs were in dire need of a walk but with this heat it was impossible even late at night. The only time we could contemplate our walk this week was very early in the morning.

I slept slightly better on Tuesday night but battled with Eladio in the early hours as to whether to switch off the aircon and open the windows instead or  not. He won the battle but he was right, at least some cool air came in and with the ceiling fan we slept better after that.

Tuesday was another day wrestling with the heat. It's funny, I've lived here so many years and should be used to it but this heat wave is really getting me down. I think it's because of the contrast of the weather on our holiday in the UK and Ireland. I was seriously thinking this morning that maybe we might want to think about living there when I retire or at least spend long periods there. Where would we choose to go you may wonder? Easy peasy, it would just have to be my beloved Dales in Yorkshire. All because of the heat, Tuesday was another day without a walk and another day without mowing the lawn which had grown so much in our absence. I urged Eladio to get a gardener to come and do it as I don't want another fainting episode.

I spent part of the morning, following my friend Joanne's advice to send the manuscript of my father's book to various publishers. She particularly wanted me to send it to an author and producer called Alison Rosie at United Agents but as I don't know anyone there I doubt anything will come of it. Alison Rosie produced the film from the book Testament of Youth. I had never heard of her so looked her up and saw she was from Yorkshire. I even bought one of her books; "The very thought of you", set in WW2 and I enjoyed reading it under the shade of our horse chestnut trees by the pool in the afternoon. Suzy joined me later and I was happy to see she was reading my father's book. About time I thought hahaha. I went in and out of the pool taking Pippa in too occasionally. Eladio joined us later with his kindle so we were a sort of reading family that day hahaha.
Reading in the shade in the garden
Suzy posted the photo above later of the two of us in the shade.

In our absence a strong gust of wind had blown one of the tables into the pool. Last time, like Humpty Dumpty, Eladio had put it all together again. This time it was proving much more difficult. In a way I was happy as the table was old and ugly and I wanted a new one. So I searched the web to buy a new one. There weren't many to choose from but I finally found one I wanted which would replace the old of more than 30 years and would look a lot better. This is it. I hoped it would be strong enough though to resist the wind.
A new table had to be ordered to replace the one that got destroyed when it was blown into the pool for the second time. 
However, my amazing husband decided to try to put it back together despite the rotting wood and guess what? He did it. I still wanted it to be replaced by the new one but then I received an email from the supplier to say it wasn't in stock and they would reimburse me. Now I have to continue living with that horrible old table which we have had for far too long. Eladio did the Humpty Dumpty thing again hahha.

Our time by the pool was brightened up by watching Oli on the TV or rather watching her on our mobile phones. She did a complicated story about gas emissions from making wine after 3 men had died in a winery in Zaragoza. She was word perfect and no doubt the subject had been thrown at her with little time to prepare. She did the report at a winery in a town outside Madrid called Colmenar de Oreja and they very kindly gave her a box of three bottles of wine. She, of course, being 7 months pregnant could not drink it. Neither did I because of my lingering headache.

On the subject of Oli's pregnancy, I am delighted to tell you that the baby finally has a name. Her little boy who is due at the beginning of September is to be called Elliot. I'm so glad he is going to get an English name. Oli will talk to him in English too as will we all, so as to give him a second language in a natural way, just as the girls learned it. I can't wait to meet little Elliot.

It was only Eladio who had some of the wine for dinner which we enjoyed together around the kitchen patio table. I conjured up a tuna fish salad and it was wonderful for the 4 of us to be having a meal together as it has been nearly every night since Suzy got back. What a change from having dinner alone with Eladio. It's lovely of course but I do miss our girls.

Just as we were finishing, our guest,  a young girl called Bea from Eladio's Leon, arrived with her mother Cristina who had come to replace her father who had driven her here. They are a lovely mother and daughter. Later the two of them had a swim in the pool and would have dinner on the terrace as we went to bed. They would be staying an extra night. There would be another guest arriving on Thursday and four more on Friday. It would be a full house this weekend.

Thursday came and I had a party to look forward to. Tony and Teresa, ex heads and previous owners of the PR agency I used at Yoigo, were holding a do to celebrate the ending of their chapter with Ketchum and the opening of a new one called, fittingly, T and T Consultants. It was something I would look forward to all day and a chance to dress up and go out to town.
Invitation to the party we went to on Thursday night
On Thursday I was busy with Airbnb guests. Bea and her mother Cristina were changing rooms as a new guest was coming, Bouchra from France. I did some more quick shopping with Suzy that morning and once lunch was organised had some time to myself and sat by the pool chatting to Cristina while her daughter was swotting for her exams at the local University. We sat with her in the afternoon too by the trees and it felt like being with a friend. That's one of the upsides of being a host on Airbnb. You get to meet people from all over the world and some of them become your friends. Bouchra, a beautiful young girl who lives in France but of Moroccan origin, arrived in the early evening and I had to welcome her and show her around. She loved the house and was soon in the pool cooling off.

It was getting late and Eladio and I had to get ready to go to the party. For the occasion I wore a little black dress with a transparent embroidered ultra thin long jacket type garment which I had picked up at a market in Santa Pola a few years ago. We drove to Madrid and arrived at our hosts' house in about 25 minutes and amazingly found somewhere to park in their street. The party was in full swing when we got there. It was great to see Teresa and Tony the hosts but disappointing that none of their ex employees such as Isabel, Carlos or Gustavo were there. Really only ex clients of the PR Agency Ketchum were invited but of course clients don't know clients, they know the employees and therefore I only knew a few people. But the food and drink was of excellent quality and it was a beautiful night. Teresa and Tony live in a top floor flat which has a huge terrace and their own swimming pool, something unheard of in the country's capital.  Eladio took a photo of me by the pool with a glass of Rioja in my hand.
At the party in Madrid on Thursday night
Eladio spent most of the night talking to a Scottish guest who is married to a Spanish girl from Jaen and who, surprisingly for me, is pro Brexit. I later spied a few guests I did know such as Sebastian, ex head of the Association of Communications Directors, as well as Jose Ramón Caso, a well known politician under Adolfo Suárez' government when democracy was restored in Spain. Today he works as a Public Affairs expert for Ketchum which is now part of the Omnicon media group. I also encountered an ex Nokia colleague, Reyes. All in all we had a nice evening and at about 11.30 made a quiet exit as we are not late nighters.

It was on our way home that I found out my father's book is now live on Amazon Kindle. My publisher, Habemus Estudio, had uploaded the corrected version of the manuscript and I was so thrilled to see it live on Kindle and not just in Spain but worldwide. This is the link to the UK site but you can find it on most country's sites too.
My father's book on Amazon Kindle
Later I created my author page which you can see here.  I am so new to this. Let's see if there is any interest out there. Who knows?
My author page on Amazon Kindle
We were in bed by nearly 1 in the morning, very late for me and I didn't sleep that well. I had a nightmare my Taiwanese guests arriving at midday on Friday had arrived at 6 in the morning and had taken over the house while their rooms weren't ready. Who said being an Airbn host doesn't have its stresses hahaha?

So Friday came and I had 4 new guests coming and everything had to be ready for them. In the meantime, the window cleaners arrived to clean windows we can't access and they created a huge upheaval and all this with my guests about to arrive and their rooms not ready as other guests were vacating them and leaving late. It was a nightmare of a morning and both Lucy and I had to rush until everything was ready. It finally was and it was  a relief they arrived late. Typically they arrived while I was in the middle of lunch but out I went to greet them. They are a Taiwanese couple and their son who live in Michigan US and the mother of the wife, an old lady who had flown from Taipee to join them. I say old as she looks and moves like an old lady but later I found out she is only 68. I had a bad feeling about these guests and wasn't really looking forward to their stay but I was completely wrong as they turned out to be lovely people.   Their son, aged 24, got on with our French Moroccan 21 year old which I thought was great.

Oli was at work and Suzy was busy - later they would leave to spend three days in Montrondo - and Eladio and I made ourselves scarce and sat in deck chairs at the back of the garden to leave our guests the pool to themselves. . We will have new guests next week from Norway and the UK and I look forward to meeting them. Airbnb is obviously about making money to help upkeep this house but it's also about meeting people from all over the world and getting to know different cultures.

We needed our quiet time in the garden on our own that afternoon while I finished my book by Rosie Alison - nothing special I'm afraid - and talked together. Later we had a nice quiet dinner while our Taiwanese guests went out to Boadilla in search of tapas. I wondered how they would get on as hardly any English is spoken in this neighbourhood.

We went to bed early and finished another episode of "La Otra Mirada".

Saturday came and it was another hot day. Our guests, Jason, Sarah, Peter and the grandmother were going into Madrid for the day and I showed them how to get there. It was Gay Pride day in Spain and I knew the city would be crowded for them, just as Dublin was for us.

The girls were in far fresher Montrondo and sent us some photos from La Palloza bar where they would have lunch.
The girls in Montrondo this weekend
Our day was quiet and started early. Eladio couldn't find a gardener to come and mow the lawn so yesterday got up earlier than usual and set about the task. I, meanwhile, went on our walk with Pippa. I left at around 8 am and by 9 it was already hot. It was to be my first walk since I got home and I really needed it. Hopefully after publishing this post, both Eladio and I will take all three dogs out for their walk.

Our Moroccan guest, Bouchra, had the pool to herself that day and spent most the time at home as the wedding she was going to didn't start until the early evening. It was to be a full blown Moroccan wedding. I was stunned when she later sent me a photo of the bride. Just look.
The bride at the Moroccan wedding Bouchra went to last night
Meanwhile, we spent time by the pool and Andy, our Scottish guest joined us in the early evening. He remarked to Eladio what a paradise the place is. He's right. I swam to cool off and when the heat receded, brought out a bottle of cider and some pistachios for Eladio and I to enjoy by the pool. We never really do that so it was rather special. Later as we were making dinner, our Taiwanese guests arrived back from their long day in Madrid. They had brought lots of fruit to eat and sat with us as we had our dinner. We then got into a long conversation, mostly about the history of Taiwan which was extremely interesting for us. Jason is a teacher of mechanical engineering at the University of Michigan and his wife Sarah a cognitive psychology researcher. We spent at least an hour or two around the table getting to know our Asian guests who have lived in the US since 1980 but still have rather strong Chinese accents. Today they are leaving for Toledo and Córdoba. From there they will go to Seville, then to Lisbon, Sintra and Porto. This is a family who has traveled a lot and a family who, despite our cultural differences, we found it easy to relate to.  We will be sorry to see them go.

Today we shall be saying goodbye to them and to Bouchra and then will have to prepare the rooms for our next guests and so it goes on.

Now my friends, I have come to the end of the tales of this week and now it's time to publish this post and give my father a hard copy.

Hoping you have enjoyed the read, cheers till next Sunday.

All the best/Masha
 c



Saturday, June 29, 2019

Goodbye The Cotswolds, a stop in Shrewsbury, to Anglesey to find my grandfather's roots: Llanfairairpwl, Llandegfan, Beaumaris, the Menai Strait, South Stack lighthouse, Holyhead with Barry, Treaddur bay, Church Bay, a last night dinner in Anglesey and off to Dublin.

Sunday 29th June, 2019

Happy to be in Anglesey where my grandfather and his family were from. Here by the Menai
Suspension Bridge


Good morning everyone from Dublin's fair city. I can't believe our wonderful holiday to discover my father's and his ancestors' roots is nearly over. Where did the time go? It has been wonderful and the holiday packed with emotion. 


Last Sunday we  were still in The Cotswolds. We were very happy at the lovely little Airbnb cottage called Dartbury Lodge on the grounds of the owners' beautiful property and I took some photos that morning to remember it. It has been like a home away from home with everything we could possibly need provided for us. It's a place to recommend and the hosts were lovely.


View from the front. Hill View bungalow (left) belonging to the owners Katy and Graham and our cottage to the right (with the red car next to it) called Dartbury lodge. 
Dartbury Lodge - our home in The Cotswolds
The property as seen from the back

That day we decided to stay near home - Dartbury Lodge near Yatton Keynell in the Chippenham area - and visit 2 of the prettiest villages near us rather than going further afield. Being Sunday I also booked a table for a Sunday roast at a nearby pub.

Following our hosts' recommendations we visited the town of Corsham and then the beautiful fairy tale like village of Lacock which I had seen with the girls on a trip here two years ago. Corsham which I had never heard of is a historic market town in west Wiltshire on the south western edge of The Cotswolds. It's actually a town and was once a centre for agriculture and wool as well as the quarrying of the beautiful Bath stone which apparently still goes on today although we never saw any quarries. What we did see was the superb Georgian style high street although it being a Sunday everything was closed.
Some of the beautiful Georgian Bath stone houses on the High Street at Corsham

Corsham High Street last Sunday
A bit further up and just by Corsham Court (private manor house) we saw the Weavers' houses in a Dutch style called The Flemish houses. They were lovely. The problem though with taking photos in beautiful areas is that there are so many  cars it is impossible to take photos without them. Anyway, here are the Flemish houses.
The old Flemish houses belonging to weavers in the past in Corsham
Everywhere we went we saw peacocks ambling freely and walking along the streets with their long and beautiful feathered wings. They seemed immune to people looking at them.
A peacock in Corsham

Like them, we  wandered around the beautiful streets and made our way to Corsham Court, a spectacular country house owned by the Methuan family who still own it and live there.  It was closed for visits so I just spied it through the gates next to the Church of St. Bartholomew.
The magnificent Corsham Court 
It was Sunday and the church was open so we went to see it. It was one of those lovely English churches you see in villages all around England. Eladio who knows a lot about churches remarked that they were all like mini cathedrals. Here I am outside St. Bartholomew's.
St. Bartholomew's church in Corsham
What surprised my Spanish ex Catholic priest husband was to see people inside chatting and having tea and cakes, something you would never see in any Spanish church. A christening had just taken place and was being celebrated. It was rather nice and both of us talked to members of the congregation.

From Corsham we drove to Lacock, one of the most famous villages in The Cotswolds and made even more famous by some of the Harry Potter films being partially filmed there. I also read that part of the upcoming Downton Abbey film has been filmed there too and I am not surprised as it is a perfect period drama location, just as Castle Combe is. It features in Pride and Prejudice also and other films. But it's bigger than Castle Combe. It is just a most beautiful picturesque medieval village, the type you only usually see in paintings or on chocolate boxes. I mean it is just stunning. Visiting the 13th century village of Lacock, once a thriving wool industry,  is like stepping back into history. It is totally unspoiled and is now nearly completely owned by The National Trust. There is a magnificent abbey there too in amazing grounds but we didn't visit it thinking the 13 pound entry fee per person was rather expensive. In any case it was the village we really wanted to see.

My photos do not do justice but let me share some of them for you to get an idea.





Picturesque Lacock
It was interesting to see that many villagers sold their goods by leaving them outside their houses for people to take and pay for by placing money into a letter box or openly in a box. That is something I have only ever seen in England but know it happens elsewhere. Sadly I commented to Eladio that this would not really work in Spain as people would probably just take the goods and not pay. We did buy something via this method; locally made fudge and home made strawberry meringues.
Cakes on sale in the street

Rhubarb on sale

Sweets, cakes and jam on sale on someone's wall. 
As you can see I couldn't resist the sweets and cakes at this little stall on someone's wall outside the prettiest little cottage you could imagine. They were to take home to my father. I also bought a post card for him which I posted at the quaint old post office.

Happy with our visit to Lacock, we walked back to the car to drive to the little village of Ford very near our lodge where we were to have a Sunday roast at The White Hart. The White Hart was a lovely old pub and was very busy that day as I imagined most pubs in England would be on a Sunday.
The White Hart pub in Ford
There was lots on offer on their menu but for me there was nothing more enticing than their roast beef and Yorkshire pudding which we both had. It was more than delicious.
Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding at The White Hart in Ford last Sunday
We then drove home to take a siesta after which we planned a long walk to work off our lunch. But that was not to be. When Eladio got up from his siesta he gave me a huge shock by suddenly fainting. He got out of bed, came into the lounge and sat in the chair next to me where I was on my PC. He tried to talk to me but couldn't and suddenly collapsed. He gave me the biggest scare ever when he fainted. I really thought he was dying on me and I panicked. Thank goodness our neighbours returned from their weekend in Ascot just as it happened. He passed out but thankfully soon revived but looked completely yellow and was covered in sweat. Graham dialed 999 and an ambulance arrived with a lovely paramedic called Heidi about 5 minutes later. I was impressed with the speed. Feeling confused and very woozy, she took lots of tests to rule out any heart or brain problem. Thankfully there were no red flags. But it was difficult to diagnose him as he was very confused while trying to explain his symptoms. He could hardly get his thoughts together to do so. Thus Heidi, debating whether to take him to the hospital in Bath performed more tests and he passed them all, thank goodness. She was with us for over an hour and during that hour he slowly recovered so she left with strict instructions to ring again if anything happened. Thankfully nothing did happen. He went to bed and slept well all night. It was not a nice end to our stay in The Cotswolds and we had both had a dreadful scare.

I should add that on Sunday I was delighted to hear that the 37 year old Spanish tennis player, Feliciano López won his second Queen's tournament winning both the singles and doubles title. The British press were delighted his partner was Andy Murray and me too as he has been injured for a long time and this could be his comeback.

On the homefront, Suzy sent us a video or two or her singing at the wedding she went to on Friday. She sang the same songs as she did to her grandfather on his 100th. She sang beautifully again. You can see here here on my You Tube channel. Well done Suzy. 

Monday came, the day we were leaving for Wales. Thankfully Eladio woke up a new man with no sign of his fainting episode the next day. We got ready to leave our lovely cottage which we would miss and left at around 10 am. Our next destination following in the footsteps of my father's and his family's roots was to Anglesey where his father, Revd. John Collins Lloyd, was born. But we would stop half way in Shrewsbury where he met my grandmother. He was posted there as a curate from 1915 to 1919 at the Church of St. Mary the Virgin, a beautiful red brick building with one of the tallest spires in England. Here he may have well met my grandmother, Dorothy Gertrude Scull, as they lived nearby at 121 Abbey Foregate. In his letters to her that I have and which are written during their courtship, they are all posted from his house on Coton Crescent. I was keen to see the places they met and that he mentioned in his letters.

Amazingly we parked on Castle Street where my grandmother had lived at 31 Castle Street before the family moved to Abbey Foregate. This was the house, a beautiful Tudor building. 
31 Castle Street where my grandmother once lived
The church was just around the corner on St. Mary's place. Today it is a redundant church but is still used for the occasional service. It is upkept by the friends of St. Mary's and is the only completely medieval church in the town. It dates from Saxon times and once again Eladio commented it looked like a mini cathedral. I felt so awed to be there, so emotional, so respectful of my past and again I shook with nerves, love and joy all at the same time. Here I am outside the church and inside trying to imagine my grandfather as a young man there.


Outside my grandfather's first church in England, St. Mary's in Shrewsbury

Inside my grandfather's first church in England
In some of his letters to my grandmother during their courtship, he complains about the vicar. I think he found him a little strict or bothersome. I looked at the names of all the incumbents and found the one who would have been my grandfather's "boss" during his time in Shrewsbury. It was William Geoffrey Pennyman. I think his complaints were about his work overload when all he wanted was to spend time with my grandmother with whom he had fallen desperately in love to judge from his letters. In those letters he also mentions meeting my Grandmother on the bridge and he would have referred to the English bridge that crosses the River Severn nearby  where they would meet on their bicycles. So I had to see that too of course. Here I am on their bridge.


On the English bridge in Shrewsbury where my grandparents used to meet during their courtship
It was very special being in the beautiful town in Shropshire where my grandparents fell in love. We were there for about 2 hours and soon it was time to move on if we wanted to get to Anglesey at a reasonable time in the evening.

It was another 2 hour drive or a bit more. We drove on the A5 for most of the way and then the North Wales Express the A55, only stopping for a picnic lunch shortly after leaving Shrewsbury. It was sunny there but when we drove past what we thought was Snowdonia the fog made its appearance and it would stay for our arrival and the next day.

We arrived in the town of the famous long name llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch near where we would be staying. The long name is shortened for practical purposes to Llanfairpwl. By the way it actually means "Saint Mary's Church in the hollow of the white hazel near a rapid whirlpool and the Church of St. Tysilio of the red cave. OGO - This comes from the word "ogof" meaning "cave" in Welsh." Would you believe that the St. Mary's was my grandfather's first church where he was appointed curate after his ordination in 1910 at the Cathedral of St. Asaph? We would be visiting it the next day.

We found our little Airbn place, "Paddleboard Cottage" down the road from Llanfairpwl and just on the Menai Strait in an area called Moel y Don.  We were supposed to use a key pad code to get in but as we had never used one before we needed the owner, Nicky's help. She lives just next door and popped over to help us open the door but then left us to our devices. This is the cottage by the way, nice but a bit below expectations. It is described as a water front property but there is a house right behind it that blocks the view. Also the dirty looking beach on the strait is downright ugly with the tide out the whole time and just mud instead of sand. However, inside the cottage it is fine but  it wasn't as nice as our cottage in The Cotswolds and we couldn't help but compare the two.


Our old Welsh Airbn cottage

The deck with a limited view of the waterfront
The not very nice waterfront

The kitchen which is on one floor with the lounge. Downstairs are the two bedrooms and tiny bathroom

The lounge - notice my PC, the first thing I set up when we arrived
Eladio went straight to bed while I unpacked everything and settled in. I then went out for a short walk to explore the area which I didn't find very beautiful but at least peaceful and surrounded by green. Perhaps it was because of the fog. In the followings days when the fog lifted then the views were lovely.

Later I rang Val, my friend Joanne's sister, who lives in Llanfairpwl and who had very kindly offered to take us on a tour of some of the points of interest in my grandfather's life on the island. She had also invited us out to lunch in Beaumaris. This was so kind of her and Eladio couldn't understand why she would want to do that. I'm not sure either but am extremely grateful.

We had a light bite for dinner then watched a bit of TV on my iPad and went to bed early again.

I woke up at 5 a.m. as usual here and  up to more fog. It would rain later though the sun did come out in the early evening finally. Back home in Madrid it was sizzling and there was a tremendous heat wave but not in Anglesey I am afraid.


Val wasn't picking us up until 10.45 so we had time to go shopping. I chose Waitrose in Menai Bridge which I heard later was the supermarket Prince William's wife, Kate Middleton, used to shop at when the lived on the island shortly after their wedding. I do love Waitrose. Here I am at the till.
Shopping at Waitrose on Tuesday morning in Menai Bridge





Just as we got home, my publisher had sent me the e-book version to my kindle. It was to check all the text for any more mistakes and facts to be corrected. This meant I would have to re-read it again. It felt funny seeing my father's book on my own kindle and I got rather a thrill out of it.
My father's book on my kindle
It's not yet ready for sharing with the wider world but is in the final stages.


A short while later Val (Valerie) was here to pick us up. On the way to her house - would you believe she lives in the old rectory of my grandfather's first curacy in Llanfairpwl? - she told me her story of how she had moved to live on the island. Originally from Lancashire, a few years ago, she bought one of the flats in the Old Rectory as a holiday home and when she split up with her partner came to live here two years ago. . About my age, she loves it and is quite integrated and has even begun to learn Welsh, such a difficult language. There at her house with views of my grandfather's church as well as the magnificent Brittania Bridge, she introduced us to her friend Alan who had help planned our guided tour that morning. Born and bred into a Welsh speaking family, he is now retired and history is his hobby, especially local history. When he first spoke to me I couldn't understand a word he was saying as he has a very thick Welsh accent when he speaks English. However, later he spoke carefully and slowly and I, at least, was able to understand better although I kept having to asking him to repeat himself. He told us that Welsh is on the decline and that sometimes, as happens in other parts of the world, the language divides society. He is not for indendependence and told us the movement was not very strong. Although people in Wales voted overall for Brexit, many people here are regretting the decision, especially farmers who live off subsidies from the EU. Alan's explanation of the situation makes sense as what will the latter do when they no longer receive subsidies, many of which exceed 100.000 pounds a year, far more than what they make from actual production? The main income on the island comes from sheep farming. Also Anglesey is famous for its copper mining and now tourism.
The Old rectory of my grandfather's first church which has now been turned into flats, one of which belongs to Valerie
Val's garden with its view of my grandfather's first church
From the Old Rectory we walked the short distance to my grandfather's first ever church, the Church of St. Mary. Joanne and Alan had got permission for it to be opened especially for us. That was so kind.  In the rain walking down the field to the church, I once again got rather an emotional feel. This would be one more of my grandfather's churches I would see on this trip this one being his first and the place where he started his pastoral service after ordination in 1910. He would be here for 3 years and lived in the nearby White Lodge.
The Church of St. Mary in LlanfairPwl where my grandfather started out on his pastoral career in 1910
Inside my grandfather's first church as a curate
The current vicar was in the church with the warden and he explained how services today are held in Welsh and English at the same time. His name was Eric and although he also had a  Welsh accent I understood him perfectly.
In the church with Val, Alan, the current vicar and the church warden
We later walked in the grounds and went down to see a statue of Nelson built by a former Marques of Anglesey which serves as a navigation aid and then back to Val's place for a cup of tea. I should add that her cocker spaniel, Alfie, joined us.
Walking in the grounds of the church with views of the Brittania bridge
Val's house is in a great location on the Menai strait with its views of my grandfather's church, the strait itself and the Brittania bridge. The latter was first built for railway traffic in October 1850 and was designed by the famous Sir. Robert Stephenson. Further down is the Suspension Bridge to Bangor which was built earlier in 1826.


The next stop on our agenda in Tuesday's guided tour was to the nearby town of Llandegfan. My first lesson in the Welsh language was to learn that "Llan", pronounced Clan, means church which figures. There are 100 churches in Anglesey but worship is declining. We were told the congregation on a Sunday at St. Mary's was not much more than about 13 people. I wonder what it would have been in my grandfather's days.


Llandegfan Church of St. Tegfan's
I loved this second church and imagined my grandfather walking into it just as I did that mornng, over 100 years since he did. Amazing. This is it inside, a jewel of a place.
Inside St. Tegfan's church in Llandefan
Alan explained it had been founded in the 6th century and although it has been rebuilt many times there are some remains of those early times, including the beautiful font.


From Llandegan, our guides drove us to the pretty little seaside town of Beaumaris meaning pretty marsh, if marshes can be pretty. It was a pity it was still raining and foggy so we missed seeing the Snowdonia mountain range or Puffin Island. I would have liked to see the Norman castle but there was no time to see everything. Here we had lunch at the Bulkeley Hotel. The Bulkely family are known in the area and the 10th baron of Bulkely built the hotel in 1832 for a royal visit to the town. He later invented the famous Hansom cab. It was a lovely "oldie worldie" place and we enjoyed a great meal of fish and chips. Val insisted on treating us.
Fish and chips at the Bulkeley hotel in Beaumaris
After lunch Val drove us to  a superb viewing point on the Menai Strait where we could see the two bridges that cross to mainland Wales. At that moment the sun came out and we got good views.


View of the Suspension Bridge

Eladio and I with the Menai Strait behind us


After a little photo session there, we returned to Val's house where Alan showed us some old picture post cards he had collected of scenes of LlanfairPwl in the past, around the time my grandfather lived on the island. I, in turn, showed my new friends some photos of his time there, including one of his mother, my great grandmother, Marian Collins. It must have been taken around 1910 at least. Notice her long dress and hat.
My great grandmother, Marian Margaret Collins in Anglesey around 1910
We had a packed programme and it was time to go back to Paddleboard Cottage to rest. On the way, Val drove us to the railway station to see the famous sign of the long name of the village. And here I am standing by it. It must be the most photographed place in the village.
Taking a photo of the full name of the village with its English pronounciation underneath at the train station.
It would have been here that my grandfather would have caught the train back to Holyhead and it would have been here that the train he would catch to either Shrewsbury or London would pass when he travelled.




We were home way after 5 pm. Eladio went to rest and I began reading the e-book to look for mistakes until I nearly fell asleep too. The sun had made its appearance and by then our location by the Menai Strait looked a lot more attractive. We went on a walk on the fields above it past sheep and cows and enjoyed the views.
On our walk on Tuesday by Moel y Don where our cottage is
It was still sunny when we returned to the cottage at about 9 pm and, although we were not very hungry, we had a small crab salad followed by strawberries, raspberries and bilberries with a meringue shell which was delicious.


Wednesday came and our search for my grandfather's roots on the island continued, this time to see Holyhead where he was born and where we would be in the good hands of Barry Hillier. While I was writing my book, Andy D. came across an article written by Barry about my great great grandfather, John Collins, after he had seen his grave at the town cemetery. It was full of information on his heroic efforts in The Crimean War and the Indian Mutiny and very interestingly included his obituary when he died in 1904. This mentioned the mourners, including my grandfather and all his siblings. I knew at the time that his siblings were called Tom, William and Ellen but there was another one mentioned, Noel. Noel proved to be a mystery which only Barry would unravel for me. His real name was Owen Noel Lloyd and he was the youngest brother who I was to find out sadly died of TB aged just 16. I kept telling my father about his uncle who he never knew referring to him as Owen. It then transpired he was commonly known as Noel (he had been born on Christmas Day in 1899). My father suddenly remembered when I mentioned the name Noel and he said "Oh Noel, I remember my father telling me about him". Later Barry would find his birth certificate where the informant was my grandfather, John Collins Lloyd. I found it very poignant that my grandfather lost his brother aged 16 and years later would lose his own son, Raymond, also aged 16. It was my newly found cousinKatriona from Glasgow who sent me Noel's photo, aged 13, which would complete the picture.
Little Noel aged 13
After reading the article about my great great grandfather, I wrote to Barry who by the way is a trustee of the Holyhead Maritime Museum. He wrote back immediately and provided me with all the research material from his article and much more. He also found the grave of Noel which lies together with his parents, my great grandparents, William Fox Lloyd and Marian Margaret Collins (daughter of John Collins of the Crimean War and Indian mutiny fame). William Fox Lloyd, by the way was the chief steward on board the Cambria ship, or the Mail Ship, as it was called then and was really the ferry that sails from Holyhead to Dublin and back - hence our keeness to take that same trip to Ireland, following in his footsteps. This is a photo of my great grandfather with his crew - he is the man with the cap in the middle.
My paternal great grandfather, William Fox Lloyd, the chief steward on the Cambria, the ferry from Holyhead to Dublin.
So I was to see all their graves but also other significant areas of interest related to their lives in Holyhead over a hundred years ago.


Eladio and I were to meet Barry at the Maritime Museum at 10.30 on Wednesday morning. We set off on plenty of time and decided to drive quickly to one of the island's most famous landmarks, the South Stack lighthouse which I know my father remembers well from his holidays with his father's family in Anglesey when he was a young boy.


Anglesey is quite large, much larger than I had imagined and we were staying at the opposite end, near Bangor, to Holyhead which, by the way, is on  a separate island "Holy Island". It is an important gateway to Ireland - just 50 miles to Dublin - but the town which still has a very important port, is not as thriving as when my ancestors lived there or so I was told. Anglesey has a population of about 50.00 people and measures 150 miles. Today Holyhead has a population of about 10 to 12.000. My father recently told me the name for Holyhead in Welsh was "Caergybi" and boy was he right as I was to see on all the signs in the town.  What a memory! I learned this week that Caergybi means "Cybi's fort" after the Welsh saint or rather Cornish saint as he was born in Cornwall.  He was a king in the 6th century working mostly in North Wales. We were to see the church named after him, the church my ancestors worshipped at.




As we drove into Holyhead on our way to the lighthouse, amazingly we went right up the street where my grandparents last house on the island was, Alderley Terrace. I made Eladio stop so as to see the old house at number 19 which my father remembers very well. It is not very beautiful but is larger than it looks with 5 bedrooms. Today it is on sale for about 150.000 pounds. Barry wondered whether I would be interested in buying it but of course I am not. Here I am outside the house. That was quite an emotional moment.
Outside 19 Alderley Terrace my grandfather's old house
From there we drove about 3 miles up the road to find the South Stack lighthouse which is on a little island. Apparently there are 400 steps to reach it. Unfortunately we didn't have time to go down them so took photos instead of its amazing positioning. The coast of Anglesey is very treacherous and we would learn of the many shipwrecks over the years that caused a lot of loss of life in the area.
Eladio by the South Stack lighthouse just outside Holyhead
At 10.30 we met Barry outside the Maritime Museum. It was wonderful to see the man who had helped me so much with my book. He had done so voluntarily and I just didn't know how to thank him enough. We got into his car and he drove us first to the Maeshyfryd Cemetery. There he led me to John Collins' grave and we had a photo taken together at the grave he had told a story about and which had led to us corresponding and finally meeting.
With Barry by John Collins' grave - my great great grandfather
I could just about make out the inscription: "In loving memory of John Collins late of the 82nd regiment (of foot) who served in the ???? Crimean War and the Great Indian Mutiny. Died 4th November 1904 aged 76 years. At the bottom of the headstone was written: "Erected by his son David John Collins - RIP". David John Collins was my ancestor who was awarded two medals by the King of Siam at the end of the 19th century for his important surveying works there. We had researched his life and only know he was born in Dundee on his way to India with his family. It seems he was well educated - probably from money awarded by Lord Wellington to those who fought in the Indian Mutiny and the CrimeanWar - and seemed to have lived all his life in Siam, India and Burma. There is no record of him attending his father's funeral in the obituary Barry found so we can possibly presume he never ever returned to the country where he was born but must have arranged for the headstone from afar.


The other grave I was most keen to see was Noel's and his parents, my great grandparents. Here it is. It was a humbling moment and very emotional to be there.
Noel's grave where he is buried with his parents

My great grandparents' grave


The words on the inscriptions had faded too and we could just about read them. "In loving memory of Noel. Beloved youngest son of William and Marian Fox Lloyd. Alderley Terrace. Born Christmas Day1899. Died 24th October 1916. Thy will be done". What sobering words. The inscription for his parents is: Also William Fox Lloyd who died May 28th 1936 aged 76 also Marian M. Fox Lloyd died August 27, 1940, aged 78.


We then drove to the road across the way from the railway station where my great great grandfather, probably with some of the money he earned for his part in the Crimean War and Indian Mutiny, had bought a refreshment house, a sort of café, probably hoping to gain the business from rail travelers. A few yards up was the pub he would later buy called The Sydney Inn, one on a row of 5 pubs called The five sisters on the Rhos y Gaer terrace in Holyhead. Today it is called The Dublin Packet - name of a ferry to Dublin - and is not in use. So, as I said in my biography, my grandfather was born in a pub yet he would go on to be a man of the church.


We were to see a church in Holyhead that day too, the Welsh church of St. Cybi's where my grandfather and his family worshipped. There was a flower festival going on and coffee and cakes were being served - something unheard of in a Catholic church and which fascinated my husband. I loved the church and again imagined my grandfather walking in there. We know he sang in the choir and had a wonderful voice, so good that he was awarded a chorister scholarship by New College Oxford.
Walking with Barry into St. Cyb's church
We also saw the port which has changed a lot from my great grandfather's day and the British School, the primary school a few steps from Alderley terrace which my grandfather and no doubt his siblings attended. It is no longer in use.
The primary school (The British School) my grandfather and his siblings went to in Holyhead
After seeing all the significant places related to my ancestors in Holyhead, Barry drove us back to the Maritime Museum perched on the beach near the port where we were to have lunch overlooking the great breakwater which is the second longest in the world.


I was to try Welsh lamb for the first time and Elado had local mussels.  My father used to tell me how his father, no doubt missing his Welsh food, used to order lamb from Wales to be sent to Henbury in Bristol where they lived by the Royal Mail! My lamb was good and the Bistro pertaining to the museum was a lovely place. Afterwards Barry showed us around the fascinating museum which was once a life boat shelter. Today it is filled with maritime memorabilia related to the area. Even more fascinating was the restored WW2 shelter across the way.


Our day in Holyhead with Barry ended at just after 3 pm and we had had a marvelous trip to my ancestors' roots, the main objective of coming to Anglesey. We said goodbye but were to see Barry again on our last night on the island.


The afternoon was spent lazily. I carried on with the e-book corrections and had a cup of tea sitting out in the sun on the terrace of our little cottage while Eladio had his siesta. Later I would fall asleep too on the sofa. The sun was still shining at 7.30 and once again we went out for a walk to enjoy the last rays of sun and the beautiful scenery. We were not disappointed. I just love the view of the Menai strait and lush green fields with their cows and sheep.
As seen on our walk on Wednesday evening
One of the black and white cows came up to greet me hahaha. That was one very friendly cow.
A friendly cow greeting me on our walk on Wednesday evening
We came home to make dinner - Lincolnshire sausages and asparagus. We loved them. Tired, we went to bed early again on our last but one night on the island.

On Thursday I woke up to brilliant sunshine, at 5 am in the morning. It was to be our last day on the island and the only day on our own. I had reserverd it to visit the beach my father and his cousins and family would go to when on holiday in Anglesey; the Treaddur Bay Beach. It's quite near Holyhead and about 25 minutes from our cottage.   We were there quite early and I was thrilled to be there.
Treaddur Bay
I wondered if it had changed much since my father was last there, probably in the late 20's or early 30`s. I have one photo of his brother and two cousins, Blodwen and William on a beach in Anglesey, presumably Treaddur which my cousin Katriona sent me. This is it.
My father's brother Raymon (the one leading the horse) and cousins Blodwen and William in the 20's very possibly on Treaddur Beach
There weren't many people bathing that day but if there had been I would have noticed a big change in dress. Just look how the two boys are wearing a jacket and tie. Before setting off for a walk on the beach and coastline, we went to buy a post card for my father which would be the last one I would send from the UK. The coastline is lovely and we walked along paths which belong to the Anglesey Coastal walk - it's a 150 mile round walk - and only wished our stay there could have been longer. The headlands were beautiful; it's a rugged coast and a bit like the coast in the north of Spain with lots of green, rocks, mountains and on that day blue skies.
Treaddur Bay


On the rocks above Treaddur Bay
It was a warm day but not warm enough in our opinion for sitting or bathing as we are used to far warmer temperatures. When we had had our fill of Treaddur Bay, we returned to our car and drove to our next and final destination; Church Bay which is a bit further up the coast. My friend Jackie had recommended the Lobster Pot restaurant there and as I can't resist lobster, I had booked a table for lunch there on Thursday.
The Lobster Pot at Church Bay
The drive to Church Bay was short; about 20 minutes and soon we were parked next to the restaurant which we later learned has been there since the 1940s and is very popular especially in the summer. We had time on our hands to see Church Bay before lunch and walked down the steep path to see what is a beautiful little cove with a sandy beach.
The beautiful little beach at Church Bay
With our walks at both bays we had worked up an appetite and were both looking forward to eating lobster which I can tell you my friends, together with crab, is probably my favourite food on earth and it's not often I get the chance to eat it. Well I did that day and I got my fill as you can see.
Delicious locallly sourced grilled lobster at The Lobster Pot in Church Bay
The lobster came with chips which I ignored as I wanted a desert (raspberry pavlova) and I had another dinner that night, our last dinner on the island with friends.  As soon as I got in the car to drive home, I promptly fell asleep and then went straight to bed for a 2 hour siesta. I was much in need of it.  I woke up feeling bleery eyed and thinking my goodness how was I going to face dinner out and more food. But the dinner was to be a special one. It was to be our last one on the island but also dinner with all my new friends who I had made while writing my father's book and who are related to Anglesey in some way; Joanne, her daughter Elisa, Val, Alan, Barry and his wife. We were to go to Dylan's at Menai Bridge and the table was booked for 8 pm to suit both UK and Spanish tastes.


It was a balmy night, the warmest since we arrived in Anglesey and I was able to wear a summer outfit. Dylan's is on the seafront with lovely views and the night was perfect.
The view from Dylan's
We were there on time as were our guests and soon there were 8 of us around a table with the best views from the restaurant. Neither Eladio nor I were hungry but managed to eat hahaha. It was an unhurried, informal and lovely evening, the perfect end to our stay on the island. Barry asked me how I felt now I had seen Anglesey and all the places on our long trip to my ancestors' roots. I told him I felt satisfied and that it was the perfect end to the journey of writing my father's book which started in January. It was something I really needed to do; to see many of the places I had written about. I never imagined I would ever visit Anglesey and it is thanks to my father's book that I have now. After I published the book as I think I have told you before, I had this sudden urge to take a trip to the United Kingdom and Ireland to trace his roots and I am very happy that I have done so. In a way it closes a most beautiful chapter in my life and I shall remember it for everyone. That is what I told my new friends when I handed out a book each and thanked them all personally for their contribution to the book and to our stay on Anglesey. I gave them a signed copy of the book each which I hope they all enjoy. I think I got quite emotional and they did too. Here we are all around the table on our last dinner on the island, a wonderful way of celebrating our visit there and a great way to end our stay on my grandfather's beloved Anglesey.
Last night dinner on the island
It was getting late, after 11 pm and we were the only people left in the restaurant. And so our lovely night finished at Dylans with my new found friends. They asked whether we will ever return. I would like to definitely.

My night at the restaurant was interrupted by phone calls to Spain to explain to new Airbnb guests how the air conditioning worked. Suzy was out and asked me to tell them. She was out with her sister, Oli and their bosom friend Elena. They would send us some lovely photos of the three of them together celebrating Oli's ever increasing bump - she is seven months pregnant now. I imagine her boyfriend, cameraman Miguel must have taken them. Here is one of the three of them. It's lovely.
My beautiful daughters including Oli with her bump and their friend Elena in a photo they sent to me on our last night in Anglesey
We went to bed late and would be up again early on Friday morning when I would have to pack and we would vacate Paddleboard Cottage for the last stage of our journey. It would be to Dublin on the ferry where I would be following in the footsteps of my great grandfather William Fox Lloyd who was a chief steward on that same sea route for many years. We were also to visit Ireland for the first time ever and I felt quite excited.
My great grandfather, William Fox Lloyd, chief steward on the Holyhead to Dublin ferry route
The ship we traveled on, The Dublin Swift, was very different to the ships he would sail on. One of them was the HMS Cambria built in 1897, 10 years after my grandfather, John Collins Lloyd was born, and no doubt it was modern for its time. During WW1 it was used as a hospital ship. This is it, compare it to the Dublin Swift hahaha.
One of my great grandfather's ships

The Dublin Swift, the catamaran we took from Holyhead to Dublin on Friday
One thing probably hasn't changed and that's the breakfast served on board. My husband couldn't resist the full Irish breakfast. I could not face it at noon. Our ferry left at 10.40 and arrived at about 13.50 and was no doubt a shorter trip than in my great grandfather's days.
Eladio enjoying his full Irish breakfast on board the Dublin Swift from Holyhead on Friday
It was a short journey made longer by quite a wait when we berthed. Finally we were ushered out by a young Romanian steward and touched Irish soil - well concrete. Here is Eladio by the ship which brought us to Dublin for what would be our first ever trip to the Republic of Ireland.
Eladio upon arrival in the port of Dublin
We arrived to very warm weather and rather sticky too but we felt lucky to be escaping the intense heat wave in Spain and other countries. In France on Friday they reached the historic temperature of 45ºc. In Zaragoza it reached 43ºc. We took a taxi to our guesthouse, The Celtic Lodge, not a great choice actually.
Our modest lodgings in Dublin

We had chosen it for its central location and good reviews but really it's not very nice. But I have to say it's very clean.  Here I am in our room wondering where on earth to put all our luggage or how to unpack. In the end we had to keep our suitcases open on the floor. There was no alternative.
In our room at The Celtic Lodge in Dublin
It was a far cry from the beautiful Airbnb cottages we had stayed at in England and Wales but we were not complaining. Eladio was tired and slept a siesta while I stepped out into the streets to explore. We are on Talbot Street just off the main thoroughfare, O'Connell Street, and I have to say the streets were teeming with people. It was very warm and people were scantily dressed to say the least. I guided myself using the very tall millennium obelisk which can be seen from the end of Talbot Street and next to the impressive GPO (General Post Office). I walked up Mary Street which must be one of the main shopping streets. Here I bought a pair of amazingly comfortable Skechers which I would need for walking in Dublin.

I went back to fetch Eladio at about 3.30 and I think we walked the streets in search of some of the most famous landmarks until about 6.30. Thank God for the Skechers. We went in search of the Molly Malone statue. I'm sure you know the song about Molly Malone which starts like this: "In Dublin's fair city where the girls are so pretty I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone". It's probably Ireland's most famous song and I used to sing it to the girls very often when they were small. Molly Malone is a fictional fishmonger in the song. When I saw on the map that there was a statue of her, that's where I wanted to head first. We walked along O'Connell Street until we came to a bridge over the River Liffey, The Carlisle Bridge. From there we walked past the Irish bank and Trinity College Dublin, both important landmarks here.

Walking in Dublin on Friday exploring the city
The streets were packed, so packed I found it a little invasive, especially as we had come from the countryside. I could never live in a city. We found the lovely statue and were able to take a few photos in peace until the hordes arrived.
By the statue of Molly Malone in Dublin
From there we made our way to Temple Bar but for some reason didn't find it. We would later. We walked back and wandered into the courtyard of Dublin Castle and back on our heels and passed Trinity College. Here we had a look in.
Eladio in the library courtyard (Book of Kells) in Dublin on Friday
Founded in 1592 and Ireland's most famous University and one of the oldest in Europe, it really is magnificent. It boasts some very famous former pupils such as the writers Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde. Even Michael O'Leary of Ryan Air fame studied there hahaha.

We walked back to our guest house stopping to see statues, take photos and generally watch things going on in the streets and returned to our little room at about 7 pm. We were very hungry as we hadn't really had lunch that day. We had lots of Waitrose food left over from our stay in Anglesey which I didn't have the heart to throw away and that was what we ate, picnic style, sitting on our narrow beds. But it was lovely. We slept well as the mattresses are comfortable thank goodness.

I woke up on Saturday at a later time than usual - 6.30 Dublin time - and "core blyme" it was raining. How could it be raining yet sizzling all over western Europe I thought? Luckily it didn't rain for long and it turned out to be a pleasant day. Dublin was full of people who had gathered for World Pride Day which is something I am all for but I have to say it packed the streets so much I found there were too many people and longed to be back in quiet Anglesey or The Cotswolds. We tried to ignore it as much as possible as, after all, we were here to discover the city.

Our day started with breakfast at our guesthouse which served all the things I least like for breakfast. I cannot face a cooked breakfast and neither do I like cereals very much and certainly not orange juice from a carton. Thus I took my own fruit to the dining room, as well as my cafetiere and ground coffee and only had the toast. Eladio went for the full Irish breakfast and wouldn't be hungry for a long time hahaha.

I had booked a 2 hour historical walking tour starting from the gates of Trinity College at 11 which would last until 13 where we hoped to learn something of the history of Ireland. Friends had suggested we take one of those ghastly touristy hop on and hop off buses but I hate them, feeling like cattle on board. I far prefer to walk and walk we did that day. My Samsung health app showed me that by the end of the day we had walked over 15 kilometres!

We left the hotel early to walk the 20 minute or so stroll to get to the beautiful Trinity College. On our street, Talbot Street, I spied a statue of James Joyce, the famous Irish author and had to have  a photo with him as I did with Molly Malone. Here I am in the best hands to discover Dublin.
With James Joyce in Dublin, perhaps Ireland's most famous author
We were at Trinity College well on time, as were hundreds of other people. Dublin seems to be a huge tourist attraction for people from all over the world and there are hundreds of different ways of touring the city and Irish gift shops every few metres or so.

At 11 we set off with a group comprising mostly of Americans but also people from Germany, India and England. Our guide, Brian I think his name was, spoke with a very thick Irish brogue and very fast too that I had a little trouble following him. I had to translate a lot for Eladio. He was a very nice guy but he rambled a lot and told us so much history of Ireland in a higgledy-piggledy fashion, that at times I lost the thread.  But I got an overall picture of the troubled history of the country and the past oppression of the Catholics by the 10% of protestants in the country. I asked him if he could ever envisage a united and independent Ireland including north and south. He told me it was very difficult but not impossible and hoped to see it in his lifetime.

The tour took us along the main sights of the city including Christchurch, The castle and fleetingly the area of Temple Bar which is the area most teeming with people.
Temple Bar
We ended up at the castle, a ruin really and partially a palace now with lovely Georgian architecture. Our guide rambled on so much about all the different battles in the history of Ireland, so feeling tired and losing the plot, we left just before he finished.

Feeling hungry too we headed for a lovely place we had seen the day before, The Bank of College Green, once a bank, the Ulster Bank, I think but now a thriving bar. The big banks in Dublin, as in many places, are more like stately homes with their beautiful lobbies. This was one of the best I have ever seen. We sat upstairs admiring the dome and ceilings, the chandeliers and decor to the sound of someone playing the piano and to other diners talking loudly.
Lunch at the Bank of College Green
There was Irish food on the menu and Eladio went for the seafood chowder while I went for traditional shepherds' pie. Both were delicious.
Shepherds' pie at The Bank of College Green
We then wandered back to our modest little guesthouse for a siesta after so much walking. I think we slept for about two hours believe it or not. But our day didn't end there. We left the Celtic Lodge to roam the streets again in the general direction of one of the city's best known parks, St. Stephen's Green. The sun had come out and it was actually very warm. We got a bit lost by taking a different route until we found our bearings again, always The Carlisle Bridge just off O'Connell Street.
Carlisle Bridge
I wanted to capture the flag of Ireland on my phone. I found it here. It seemed that all the flags flown that day were World Pride rainbow flags but I finally found my Irish one.

From Trinity College we walked up Garratt Street which was so full of people it felt like queueing to walk which I do not like. We queued too to get an ice cream from a kiosk called Ginos and I was served a lovely scoop of pistachio (my favourite) by a young girl from Mexico. There are  people from so many nations of the world in Ireland, it feels like the United Nations.

There were even more people in the park  - a beautiful ornate one I have to see with wonderful flowers - either having a picnic and a drink or two or just resting in their Gay Pride outfits after a tiring day. The lawns were full of them, except for the best kept lawns with their beautiful flower beds.
The park teeming with people resting from Gay Pride day at St. Stephen's park yesterday

One of the beautiful flower beds at St. Stephen's Green 
We sat for a while contemplating the gardens and the people and then took  a walk around the park - as if we hadn't walked enough already. We loved it and took lots of photos. Here is Eladio in a quieter area of St. Stephen's Green and me by one of the pretty flower beds.
Eladio in the park yesterday

Me in the park yesterday
It was getting late and time to walk home. Neither of us felt like dinner out and once again had a picnic in our cramped bedroom of food still left over from shopping at Waitrose in Menai Bridge. That night we both slept like babies. I really have caught up on lost sleep here in Dublin.

And today is Sunday, the last day of our journey to my roots and what can I say? It has been amazing, tiring, emotional, happy and a wonderful thing to do. It has also been a need satisfied after writing my father's book and I am so happy to have visited his educational institutions, the places he lived, his father's churches and of course the family graves. I now feel as if I have nearly closed a chapter. It's still not completely finished as the book has still to be published on Amazon as an e-book but that should happen very shortly. Only then can I go on to the next chapter in my family history - the story of my mother.

Today we shall be visiting the pretty little seaside town outside Dublin called Howth but you will hear all about that in next week's post.

Meanwhile, I wish you all the very best from Dublin, a city I have always wanted to visit.

Cheers till next time,
Masha




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