Montrondo in danger of fire, hottest day of the year, to the Rias Bajas in Galicia with Suzy for this year's wedding anniversary, 5 days of sun, sea, Albariño wine and good food and other stories of the week.

 Hotel Mar Azul, Playa Major, Sanxenxo, Rias Baixas, Galicia, Sunday 24th August 2025

This year's anniversary photo

Good morning from our hotel near Sanxenxo where we are leaving today after five days of sun, sea, Galician Albariño wine and good food. 

Last Sunday we were at home in Madrid where the temperatures were unbearable. It was the hottest day of the year on record and where the thermometer went as high as 46ºc in Jerez. In Madrid it was 40ºc and sweltering and we hardly left our air conditioned rooms. 

It was hot in Montrondo too and we were startled and worried to hear that a village meeting had been called in the evening to inform about the fire which has been ongoing since Friday 7th August. On the phone to my sisters-in-law they feared the worst and would possibly be evacuated the next day. Thankfully that didn't happen and today although the fire is still alive it seems to be contained and will not reach the village. But the people didn't know that last Sunday and feared losing their houses. All the able people gathered the next day at 7.30 in the morning and  cleared and cut grass from the fields and built fire walls to stop the flames reaching properties. Montrondo was on my mind the whole night.  As I wrote last week, Spain is on fire and has caused so much damage. It is quite frightening. In just two weeks 358.000 hectares have burned.

We were to see a lot of the damage on our road trip to Galicia especially in the area of Orense and because of the fires we even had to change our itinerary. 

Monday dawned in Madrid and it was just slightly less hot. We had to go out and do lots of errands which included the fastest ever hair dresser appointment where I had my roots done but walked out with wet hair. I did so to get back and prepare lunch for Oli and family whom we hadn't seen since they left Montrondo for France. 

The news from our village was that so far the efforts of the villagers and the local volunteers who took turns to watch out for fire, were paying off. 

Local volunteer fire fighters on the mountains of Montrondo making sure the fire doesn't reach the village.

They are heroes and I was glad to hear that finally they had some proper help from the forest fire brigade and Army. 

It was on Monday that Zelensky travelled to Washington to meet with Trump about peace for Ukraine after the latter's meeting with Putin in Alaska. He was joined by quite a few European leaders and at least this time, Trump treated him well. Of note he wore a sort of military type black suit after the criticism for not wearing a suit at their first meeting in February. All I know is that the US has promised some sort of security protection but in exchange for what we do not know. Will Zelensky have to give up some of the territory Putin wants in order to reach a peace agreement? Sadly that is very probable.

In the US, importantly too, the top two seeds, Jannik Sinner and Carlos Alcaraz were playing in the Tennis Master's final in Cincinnati. We were just about to watch it when after losing the first five games, the Italian retired owing to illness. It was a sad way to lose for Carlitos. I hope Sinner will be on form to play the US Open which starts today. 

On Tuesday we had lots to do before leaving on this year's anniversary trip. We have always celebrated our anniversaries but since 2020 we have gone away to celebrate. In 2020 we went to Nazaré in Portugal, in 2021 we went to La Rioja, in 2022 we went to A Guarda in Galicia and near Portugal, in 2023 we went to St. Jean de Luz in France. However in 2024 we didn't travel as Suzy was ill. Even so, we went out to celebrate and had dinner at La Finca, a superb gastronomic experience in Elche. For the record here is a photo of each anniversary since 2020.

Nazaré, Portugal 2020

 

 

La Rioja 2021

A Guarda 2022

Saint Jean de Luz 2023

La Finca, Elche 2024

For the record too here is a photo I post every year of our wedding day. 

 

Our wedding day on 21st August 1983 - 42 years ago this week.

Oh how young we were then with all our married life ahead of us.

This year we decided on Las Rias Bajas (estuaries or fjords) in Galicia again.  Galicia is in North West Spain and shares a southern border with Portugal. 

Galicia in North West Spain

We chose it to get away from the heat of central and southern Spain but also because we love the area. It is often called "Galifornia" because of the similar lifestyle and appeal of California. I think they are different in many ways but the beaches, scenery are just as beautiful or more. Galicia is more rugged and is not sophisticated with lots of old traditions which we love. The food is plentiful and delicious, both from the sea and the land.  Galicia is also part of Green Spain with wild coasts and green forests. Unlike California it has a strong Celtic heritage in its language and culture.  It has its own identity which sets it apart in a way from the rest of Spain. Don't forget either that Galicia is Camino de Santiago country too. It has its own magic which we love. Suzy came with us to make this year's anniversary even more special as she also loves Galicia. Who doesn't?

Just before we left I heard from the owner of our Airbnb in Sanabria (Zamora) that we couldn't stay because of a forest fire; another one. Amazing. Sanabria is a beautiful area known for its lake of the same name. There was nothing for it but to find somewhere else to stay to break the long journey to Sanxenxo. I found it in Verin, a small town in Orense near Portugal. But I was worried the A52 road to the Rias Bajas may be closed because of fire. Thankfully it wasn't but we saw a lot of scorched earth on our journey that it made the damage you see on TV real and frightening. 

Strong evidence of forest fires on our way to Galicia

Long before we saw this apocalyptic scenery, we stopped for a coffee at Villacastin, about 100km from Madrid. For the record, 3 coffees, 2 chocolate bars, 1 yoghurt and 1 croissant cost 15 euros vs 12 euros for 1 coffee and 1 croissant on a motorway in France. Unfortunately about 50km after we left the place, Eladio realised he had forgotten his phone. I rang insistently to no avail until, Eureka the cafe people rang to say they had it. We shall be picking it up on our way back today. That was a scare. My husband told me he has hardly missed his phone while we have been away. I would have gone back for mine but he didn't want to.

We took sandwiches with us and had a picnic on the way and here is a picture to show you.

Picnic on our way - sorry about the kitchen roll!

We got to Verin which was surrounded by scorched earth and soon found our little boutique hostel called A Morada do Cigarron right in the centre. It was dirt cheap, comfortable and well located next to the ubiquitous Plaza Mayor. This was it.

Our place for the night in Verin

Verin is a an unassuming but attractive Galician town near the Portuguese border famous only for its Monterrei wine. Luckily for us it's not a tourist town so was very quiet.  Eladio and I had been twice before when we stayed at the Parador but I'm afraid it was fully booked when I rang. As soon as we were settled in, Suzy and I went out to explore. We had a decaf and then searched the local boutiques for clothes which we found. I got two t-shirts and Suzy got some lovely tops. When we had had our full of shopping we went to collect Eladio for a drink and dinner somewhere. 

As we came out of the hotel we took some photos to share here.

In Verin about to hit town

We didn't have to go far to find a nice place for a drink. We tried the local wine and Albariño - more famous - at Vinoteca Gandaina which we loved. It was a great start to our anniversary holiday.

Wine at Vinoteca Gandainas in Verin on our stop off there. I love Suzy's new top.

The owner of our hotel also runs and owns a restaurant come tapas bar called A Peixeria and that's where we had  the best dinner of our trip. We were served delicious scallops, octopus, an incredible salad made with local tomatoes and mini scallops called "zamburriñas" in Spanish and which I adore. I ended up having them nearly every day here when they are a luxury in Madrid but as they are fished here they are on offer at most restaurants in the area.

A Peixeria in Verin served us the best meal of our trip

After all that wine and food I slept amazingly well at our modest Hostel. We had our own breakfast in the room as we had taken lots of provisions (as usual) and breakfast was not on offer.  On our journey to Sanxenxo we saw more scorched earth but thankfully the Rias Baixas has been spared. We stopped in this famous seaside town which was brimming with people and a bit too busy for our liking. But we walked on the promenade of the famous Silgar beach to remember our holiday there in 2012. Of note Sanxenxo is a place much loved by the disgraced former King of Spain and the not disgraced former PM Mariano Rajoy. 

Eladio and Suzy by the Silgar Beach in Sanxenxo

At about 2pm or so we set off to find our hotel which is a few kilometres away. Called Mar Azul it is on the road to O'Grove peninsula and opposite the Pregueira and Major beaches which is actually one beach with two names. It is cheap and cheerful too but we have been very happy here. Our rooms were big and both had views of the beach and the beautiful Island of Ons. 

View from our room

Suzy and I went down to the beach as soon as we had settled in. It was a bit windy that afternoon so we didn't stay long. But after that the weather has been marvelous, warm but not too hot. While there, we spied a place for dinner by the beach and also somewhere to have a drink before we went to eat. They served the best "Pulpo a feira" (octopus) we had on this trip. We came home to watch the sunset from our terrace. The sun sets later in this area as we are so far north. Just look.

Sunset on the beach from our hotel terrace. On the horizon the Island of Ons

Thursday came and it was 21st August, 42 years since our wedding. Eladio always counts our anniversary from the summer we met in 1980, which makes it 45 years together. That is certainly something to celebrate and it is amazing to think we are still in love. That's what holds everything together.  We could never have imagined when we first met that we would still be together 45 years later. I don't know how long we will live but as long as we do, we shall celebrate our wedding anniversary. 

The anniversary lunch was to be in the pretty town of Cambados, the capital of the Albariño wine region, but first for a walk on the beach which is quite a climb down from the top and down very steep dunes. Suzy took this week's feature photo and this year's anniversary photo. Here are some more of our time on the beach that morning.

Morning walk on the Playa Major on our anniversary

When I posted these photos on Facebook a friend called Eladio "grand seigneur" (gran señor in Spanish I suppose). The definition in French is "a man whose rank or position allows him to command others". I'm not sure that's true but he does look dignified. I'm sure when he was a young boy in humble Montrondo he could never have envisaged marrying me and travelling the world together. 

After our walk Suzy drove us to the pretty fishing town of Cambados where we had stayed at the Parador - again fully booked. It is such a pretty town. Here are some pics.

Enjoying Cambados

We had a wonderful drink at a very chic tavern - Albariño again and I wish I could remember the name.

Albariño wine with a tapa which we took home for dinner (haha) in Cambados

I had booked a table at a Michelin star restaurant called Yayo Daporta which did not go down very well with my husband who, although married to me, still maintains the taste for food he had as a child. He far prefers plain food. I do too but I love creative tasting menus at posh restaurants.  I loved every item on the tasting menu but my husband was not impressed. Here are some of the dishes we ate and which cost a fortune Eladio didn't think was worth the money and which made me feel terrible:-(

Some of the food at Yayo Daporta which didn't impress Eladio

I learned my lesson and next year I will choose a restaurant that serves plainer food.

In the afternoon Suzy and I spent time on the beach getting tanned but with lots of factor 50 sun screen lotion. We were eating the tapas from the tavern in Cambados for dinner when a catastrophe happened in El Cuetu. The guests who arrived that day sent me photos showing me the house had not been cleaned for them; not even the sheets. Once again, the cleaner, Rosa, had let me down. As usual she wouldn't pick up the phone but she did send garbled audio messages. In a nutshell she had forgotten to clean the house and I had to cancel the reservation on Booking. That was my first and hopefully last time. I felt awful for the guests. I have no other cleaner but this one and cannot find another one until we go in September after our last guests have left. I can only hope she doesn't let me down again before the end of the season which is close. That was not a good end to our anniversary but I suppose problems like this one go with the job and I refused to panic or lose sleep over the issue as there was nothing more I could do.

Despite the catastrophe, I didn't sleep too badly. Friday was a good day. Eladio and I had breakfast here which is not too bad. We then drove to San Vicente do Mar near O Grove where I wanted to take Eladio and Suzy on a wonderful coastal walk called "Sendeiro Pedras Negras" - the Pathway of Black Stones  although they are not very black. We had been on that walk when we came in 2012 after our friend Pili who has a house in San Vicente suggested it and I had forever remembered it for its beauty and stunning scenery. Let these pictures I took describe it for you.

The stunning walkway Pedras Negras in San Vicente do Mar

It was a walk to remember and I hope to go back again one day. After a coffee in San Vicente we drove to the Island of Toxa famous for its thermal waters and soap by a brand of the same name; Toja in Spanish. It's a very chic and upmarket place and we were impressed. We specially liked the church made of scallop shells and the park and soap museum.

La Toxa

Soon it was time for lunch and I had booked a table at El Pescador in nearby O Grove. I thought it was one we had been to before but my memory failed me and instead of going to La Posada del Mar which is now closed we went to El Pescador. O Grove is Spain's seafood capital and I was looking forward to more scallops and Eladio and Suzy to more octopus. We all enjoyed the food, especially the "mariscada" (seafood platter). Just look.

"Mariscada" at El Pescador in O Grove this time drowned by Ribeiro white local wine.

When we had had our fill of seafood which actually is not filling at all, we went in search of an ice cream for dessert and then it was time to come home to the hotel. It was very hot on Friday afternoon so Suzy and I went down to the beach at around 5.30 pm.  As usual we came back more tanned and in need of a shower after bathing in the sea.

Dinner was from our dwindling provisions in our room. I didn't need more than a piece of fruit a yoghurt and a date. 

And soon it was Saturday, our last day here. We chose Combarro as our main destination that day. It is often hailed as the prettiest village in Galicia and we had never been. I had read it was famous for its stone granaries (hórreos) of which there are more than 60 on the sea front. They were used not so much for grain as for drying fish and they are quite a spectacle. Combarro is a very picturesque fishing village with narrow cobbled streets and plenty of granite crosses too (cruzeiros) and is one of the stops on the so-called Spiritual Portuguese Camino. We loved it. But so did other people and thank goodness we went quite early and beat the crowds. Here are some photos I took in Combarros.

 

Combarros, hailed the prettiest village in Galica. We certainly loved it.

Before leaving we had a coffee on the sea front and then shopped for our picnic today at a local supermarket.  Lunch yesterday was by our beach at Al Mar restaurant where I, at least, tried to save my appetite for dinner last night with our friends Gerardo and Vicky. They were on holiday at their family summer home in San Vicente where Gerardo and his siblings have been coming since they were children. 

 

 After a siesta, Eladio joined Suzy and I at the beach - his first time and our last. We bathed together in the very cold water and came out out feeling invigorated. I shall miss that beach. Maybe we will come here again next year as this area is so lovely and the beach superb. After our showers, we got dressed up - well, I did and at 8.30 or so set off for dinner with our dear friends Gerardo, his wife Vicky and one of their 5 children, also named Gerardo who is actually now a strapping young man. Gerardo who I have known for 60 years when I was an au pair with his lovely family in Madrid and who drove me to my wedding, booked a table at a little tavern near O Grove. We got to Meson A Lareira do Lareixo first and sat on the splendid terrace enjoying our last glass of Albariño white wine. We took some photos before our friends arrived which I am happy to share here.

Dinner last night

Our friends were a bit late getting there which sparked the fury of the waiter. I couldn't believe how rude he was to us, shouting for everyone to hear him that being late had complicated the restaurant's logistics for that night. We would have left there and then as his behaviour was unacceptable but we would not have found anywhere else to have dinner on a Saturday night in August. Despite all this we had a good dinner as the food was excellent and of course enjoyed each other's company. It was great to coincide here in Galicia with what I always call "my Spanish family".

The night came to an end very late for us and we were in bed after 12pm. I slept well last night and woke up today at around 7 am. Soon it will be time to leave for the long trek back home to Madrid. As my father always used to say "all good things come to an end". Unfortunately they do. We have had a great time here and will remember this trip always.

That's it now for this week my friends. Have a good Sunday and cheers till next time,

Masha