Saturday, November 09, 2019

Home again, reunited with Elliot, TV debate with all male Spanish election candidates, a special lunch with Fátima and Julio, 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall and other stories.

Sunday 10th November, 2019

Delighted to be reunited with Elliot after nearly 12 days
Good morning all,

Here I am again on another Sunday writing my blog.  It  seems quite unbelievable that I have been doing so since 2004. That's 15 years of my life. I only wish I had started before but there you go. I wonder if one day little Elliot will be interested in reading it. Let's hope so. 

We didn't see him that day as Oli and her little family had plans. Thus our day was quiet. Our French guests, Françoise, and her family left here quite early. They would be journeying back to Versailles where they live but spending the night in that beautiful little town; St. Jean de Luz, just over the Spanish border. I suggested they stop at Burgos, a beautiful cathedral town just 2 hours or so north of Madrid. They took my advice and later thanked me for it. Later they left me a 5 star review. I am notching them up as the Colombians who I never met also gave me 5 stars. Way to go.

It was blustery and cold with intermittent rain here on Sunday thus we postponed our walk until the afternoon. We had to do some emergency shopping and I spent the time afterwards cooking our lunch which we would have with my father. I made marinated ribs with potatoes and paprika which everyone loved. 

When we got back from our sunny afternoon walk it was to find our next group of guests had arrived. Jia and her husband and friends are Chinese but live in Palma (Mallorca). They speak perfect Spanish so there were no "lost in translation" moments with them thank goodness. They were here for 3 nights to show Madrid to their friends and were perfect guests. Andy, our Scottish lodger, was home late after 10 days away but we wouldn't see him until the next day.

Monday came, the start of another week. We went for our walk and then I went to see my best friend Fátima. I have written many times about our friendship which was forged in 1991 when we worked together at Motorola. Nearly 3 years ago she was diagnosed with bowl cancer that had spread. Since then, my most positive friend who I admire so much has gone through more than 7 full rounds of various types of chemotherapy. As I watched her go through them, I was amazed at her positive attitude. Plus, she never lost her hair and had few side affects which is quite remarkable. Her own doctor is amazed at her patient, the likes of which she has never seen. I like to think I have been there for her but perhaps not enough. Now that she enters the stage of palliative care with no more treatment possible, our friendship will continue and I shall remain as close to her as possible. We cried together yesterday and hugged when she told me. What else could we do? When my mother and brother were dying we couldn't talk about it but with my dear friend Fátima we did and shall continue to do so. Nothing is taboo with us. On Wednesday we would have lunch together with our other soul mate, Julio, to whom she would break the tragic news that day. Oh how unfair life is. Her daughter and only child, also called Fátima, is a tower of strength for her and I promised on Monday that I would help her with her career. I intend to do so of course. Right now and rightly so, Fátima is my priority.

The only thing that could cheer me up on Monday was the arrival of Oli and Miguel with little Elliot. My father was dying to see him too as the last time we saw him was on 24th September, the day Suzy left for Bali (sigh). The first thing we noticed was how he had grown. He is near to 5 kilos and measures 60 cm. Most clothes for babies from 1 to 3 months no longer fit him. He is definitely going to be a big boy. I asked for a photo with him and I got it, the one illustrating this week's post.
We noticed just how much Elliot had grown after 12 days since we had seen him
We had a lovely lunch together and my father was able to see his great grandson close up. If last time he had said to him "I love you", this time he said "darling Elliot" which filled our hearts. He is not usually demonstrative but I think Elliot has stolen his heart.  His Aunt from far away, Suzy, had asked for a video and a video she got. This is it.

Lucy whisked Elliot off to comfort him allowing his mother to eat her lunch with two hands but soon after he was at her breast again. I suggested the exhausted couple take a siesta while Eladio and I looked after little Elliot. I wanted them to be able to catch up on their sleep but I also wanted time to bond with my darling grandson. We took him into our room in his pram and I talked and sang to him for about 1.5h and he behaved perfectly. He now focuses on things and seems to like the toys hanging in his pram. He caused no bother whatsoever and I loved every minute of being with him.
Little Elliot content in his pram beside me in our bedroom
Oli, needing some time to herself and time to do some sport, went out for the first time on her own since her baby was born. She went to the swimming pool nearby while Miguel babysat. I had to do some work for my customer; a media report with all the clippings on the recent press release - I was happy to see there were 28 of them which is pretty good considering the news was rather regional.

I then set about making our dinner which we would have together in the dining room. Oli came rushing back to join us with her hair still wet and feeling guilty about leaving her baby. We all told her not to worry and that he had been fine.

While we were having our dinner, one of the Chinese guests, Chan, was making the group's dinner. He told me he had been a chef in China but is a waiter now in a Chinese restaurant in Palma. We spoke about the difference between Chinese food outside and inside China. He told me that Chinese food outside China is a bit like Chinese McDonalds. I totally understood. He also said spring rolls were virtually unheard of in his country. He comes from near Shanghai - the only city I have ever visited in his country - ah well Hong Kong too -  and we had quite a banter going as he made his wok with some funny leek type vegetable.

When Oli and her little family left we rushed upstairs to bed to watch the General Election political debate - the only one with all 5 candidates for the role of Prime Minister.  Today will be the 4th general election in 4 years all owing to hung parliament results and the most voted party being unable to form a deal with other parties. These are the 5 candidates; all men of course.
The 5 men candidates to govern Spain
The picture of the 5 of them says it all. They are all men, not one woman. They may have lots of women in their parties but not one woman candidate for PM. That is what struck me most. I noticed too how the far left candidate, Pable Iglesias, wore a tie which is unusual for him and that the far right candidate, Santiago Abascal, didn't. No doubt both men's teams studied the subject. The debate went on for nearly 3 hours and resulted again in a sort of stale mate as to how the candidates would deal with yet another hung parliament. The elections are today. So let's see what the outcome is this time.

Thus I was asleep really late. I slept fitfully with my dear friend Fátima on my mind.

Tuesday came and it was raining but soon the sun came out.  Tuesday in England was Guy Fawkes' Day, one of those English traditions I really miss. We continued our home routine and after our windy but sunny walk with the dogs, went to do the weekly basic food shopping at my not so beloved Mercadona - Spain's low cost and ever popular supermarket.

Our Chinese guests were out and about and in fact on Tuesday we didn't see them at all, apart from briefly in the morning. Our day panned out very normally and there is not much  else to tell.

Wednesday came. At least it wasn't raining but it was cold. I now only wear winter clothes. It's so sad that summer is over. Christmas is round the corner as the shops remind me but there will be no decorations or tree in this house until December.

I had a busy day on Wednesday. We went on our walk with the dogs and when we came home it was to say goodbye to our 4 young Chinese guests who were a pleasure to host. That day I did not make the lunch as I had a date with Fátima and Julio. I desperately needed a visit to the hairdresser but before setting off, Eladio and I had our first video call together with Suzy since she left on 24th September. It was great to see her looking happy; happier than she had been before she left. My teacher daughter was getting ready for her lessons and later sent a photo. I love her fake glasses. I think her little Chinese pupils love her too.
Suzy in teaching mode, about to start her online classes on Wednesday
I took longer at the hairdresser than I would have wanted. I always find it a complete bore, compared to most women who find it pampering which I don't. I had half an hour on my hands before going to pick Fátima up so used it to look for some brown winter boots and I found them. Look:
Me in my new boots which are so comfortable and warm
I then drove to my friend's house to pick her up for lunch. Dear sweet Fátima has difficulty walking these days as she can hardly feel her legs. I watched sadly as her daughter Fátima, helped her up the ramp from their garage. We hugged and I drove to the nearby restaurant, El Tinglado, in Boadilla. To make things easier for her, I dropped her off at the restaurant door and then went to park. When I walked into El Tinglado it was to find both my friends. We are a threesome whose friendship was forged during our time with Nokia. Julio, my colleague, hired Fátima when she was 9 months pregnant in the year 2000 and we have been close friends ever since. It was to be a sad but pleasant encounter. Fátima told him her heartbreaking news and the three of us hugged. It was Julio who made us cheer up and take a "carpe diem" attitude afterwards. He is also sad as one of his sisters is very ill too. When he asked me how I was, my only answer was that I had all the luck my dearest friend did not and only wished I could pass her on some of it. At least we all ate heartily and enjoyed the wonderful food on offer at this rather New York style oyster bar; although I have never eaten oysters there haha. As we walked out after lunch I took a selfie of the three of us. We vowed to have lunch again as soon as possible and that we will do. Here we are the 3 Nokia musketeers. One of the best things about that Finnish company was the friends we made. Everyone knows the company's slogan; "Nokia Connecting People" but we employees had another one; "Nokia reuniting colleagues" and that's just what we did on Wednesday.
With my dearest friends, Fátima and Julio. 
After driving Fátima home and agreeing to see her on Friday, I went home to find a very quiet house. I went upstairs to lie down for a while and was woken up shortly afterwards by our new Airbnb guests. Manuel and Gelia. They live in Barcelona  - a topic I didn't bring up with them - and were visiting their son who works at the Santander HQ nearby. They seemed a very nice couple in their 60's a bit like us hahaha.

If I felt sad that day about my friend, Fátima, Olivia cheered me up when she announced she would be coming with Miguel (and Elliot of course) to have dinner with us. They even offered to make it and brought with them all the ingredients to make sea bass cooked in a thick layer of salt and accompanied by roast vegetables. Seeing Elliot again made my heart soar and I took him straight away to see his great grandfather. He was delighted to see his great grandson and held him on his lap with great care, touching his face and hands with so much love it was painted on his face. My father has never been demonstrative but with Elliot that has changed. One day when I showed him a new photo of Elliot he said "I would like to see him every day". On Wednesday while my father was holding him, I asked him what it felt like to be a great grandfather. The dearest man replied "I feel exhilarated". That is a lot coming from him but well, of course he must. If it's amazing to be new parents, very special to be grandparents, especially for the first time it must also be pretty thrilling to be a great grandparent. I love the way my father shows his love for little Elliot. Here is a photo of the two of them most clearly communicating.
Great grandson and great grandfather communicating together.
While the meal was in the oven, Miguel and Olivia bathed their little baby in a huge baby bath contraption which is so big it nearly takes up the whole of my daughter's bathroom. There were the usual comments of nervous first parents as to the temperature of the water - we have all been there, hahaha. He didn't like his bath but was soon swaddled in a thick towel and dressed. He was then handed to his grandfather for comforting. There is nothing more calming than my husband - he has that effect on people and Elliot always quietens down when in Eladio's arms. Here they are together. I love seeing them together.
Eladio calming down little Elliot
We had a lovely dinner together which was totally unexpected and cheered me up tremendously. I love seeing Elliot and agree with my father. I too would like to see him every day. The new family left at around 10 pm after which we went to bed and continued watching a new series on Netflix; Hache which we are quite enjoying.

Thursday came and brought some rain but the weather soon cleared and the sun came out, permitting us to go on our walk. It was by far the coldest day of the year so far and we had to wrap up well, Meanwhile, in our village, Montrondo, it snowed for the first time this autumn. I wish I had been there. I always seem to miss the snow there and it is my dream to be trapped in the village due to snow. Oh I do love snow.
Snow in Montrondo on Thursday this week. We missed it by just a few days. 
Our day continued normally. While having a cup of coffee after our walk, I coincided with our guests from Barcelona in the kitchen and we had an interesting chat. Thankfully I found out that they are not for independence and told us their side of the story, the story of the silent majority that doesn't often hit the headlines. It was mostly the wife, Gelia, who spoke. As a teacher of maths in a secondary school in Catalonia she was able to tell me firsthand just how radicalised schools are there.

It was on Thursday that Spain's most celebrated woman scientist, Margarita Salas, died aged 80. Here she is dubbed Spain's Marie Curie but I am sure that outside Spain, except in scientific circles, she is unheard of. Her fields of expertise were biochemistry and molecular genetics and much of her work helped improve DNA testing. She will be sorely missed as an amazing role model for women scientists. RIP

On the topic of women role models, if on Monday we had a debate among the 5 men PM candidates, on Thursday it was the turn of 5 women from the topper echelons in the main parties vying for votes in today's general election. Yes, it was good to see 5 women politicians debate but I couldn't help feeling that maybe politics in Spain would be a lot better off if we had a woman Prime Minister, something that seems a long way off. Hopefully Elliot will see it in his lifetime. The 5 women rewarded us with a far more stimulating debate than the male  candidates,  digging deep into Spain's biggest problems which don't all boil down to the fight for independence in Catalonia. Politics aside, I was fascinated to see that all the women, 4 of whom must be in their 30's or early 40's, were wearing trousers. However, women are still not in the driving seat of politics.
The 5 women politicians from Spain's top political parties in the TV debate on Thursday night
The debate lasted until past midnight after which there was a long analysis of how it had gone. Oh how late Spanish prime TV is. It starts at 10 pm. which is probably when prime time is over in most of Europe. Thus we switched off our lights very late that night.

Friday came and after our walk and leaving lunch prepared I went to see my friend Fátima to have coffee together and also to take her some of my signature broccoli, carrot and mushroom based home made soup as I know it must be difficult for her to cook these days. We agreed to meet again today while out voting in the general elections. I will only be accompanying them as you know already I cannot vote here or in the UK:-(

I was home on time for lunch and also for the surprise visit paid by little Elliot and his parents. I quickly performed a bread and fish miracle and upped the quantities available so there would be enough for everyone. My father was delighted to see his great grandson again and as he was leaving for his siesta when lunch was over, he said "beautiful Elliot". Well, my father is right on that, he is beautiful even though he is still a very new born baby and most babies are not beautiful.

We all had a siesta including Elliot who is very colicky at the moment and is driving his poor parents mad at night. We spent part of the afternoon googling remedies for colicky babies and came up with different sorts of massages, etc. They seemed to do the trick for a while as when we went out that night for dinner, his first night out at a restaurant with his parents, he spent the whole time sleeping.  Elliot was warmly dressed for the occasion in a beautiful striped and fur lined outfit his parents got for him at El Corte Inglés. He looks lovely in it don't you think? It would keep him warm all evening.
Little Elliot snug in his new fur lined striped outfit

It was our first dinner out with Oli and Miguel since his birth and I was eager for them to try out the lovely food at a Moroccan restaurant (Tuareg Arab Restobar)  in Villaviciosa recommended to us by Fátima's daughter, also called Fátima. Eladio and I had been last month. I loved it but Eladio didn't so he wasn't too keen to go again. However, he changed dishes this time and  liked the food more than last time. Oli and Miguel loved it as did I. Their humous and falafel are out of this world as is there pastilla (pastela), not to mention the mint tea and baklava. Here are my three fellow diners enjoying the evening out.
Dinner at Tuareg Arab Resto Bar in Villaviciosa on Friday night
We had a very attentive waitress who kept telling us she recognised my husband and couldn't fathom where she knew him from. I suggested he may have been her teacher and bingo she remembered him from 14 years ago as her teacher of philosophy at his last school before retirement, the Instituto in Brunete. She was overjoyed to meet him again and a little ashamed to admit she did not go on to study although she was thinking of taking up her PE teacher studies again. We all encouraged her to do so. She offered us all free after dinner gin tonics. Only Miguel and I accepted but I just had a few polite sips as I am not a gin tonic fan. I enjoyed the wine though.

It was home to bed afterwards and it would be Elliot's first night at our house. I was worried he might cry during the night and wake up the guests who were in the room next door. But he didn't and must have slept well as we never heard anything. Eladio and I stayed up late watching two more episodes of "Hache".

Saturday came, 9th November. In Madrid it was a holiday for the patron saint of the city, "La Almudena". Worldwide it was the 30th anniversary of the fall of the dreadful wall that separated East Germany from West Germany and which marked the fall of the Iron Curtain and the end of communism. By fluke the Berlin wall came down because of a bureaucrat misunderstanding an order about loosening travel between the wall. It was then that the crowds on either side of the wall began its dismantling and helped East Berliners climb through or over and rejoice together in anticipation of the reunification of Germany.
An iconic photo of the fall of the Berlin Wall 30 years ago this week
That was on 9th November 1989. I was 32 then and had only ever known a divided Germany. My parents had known Berlin and Germany before and were euphoric when the wall came down. Not so long afterwards they visited Berlin to see it for themselves. They bought us back two big pieces of the wall which grace our lounge. One of them came with a paper authenticating it but unfortunately I lost the paper. My cousin, Sasha, son of Aunty Masha, my mother's youngest sister, who lived much of his early years in Germany, was there on the night of the fall, cheering with joy along with everyone else. I wish I had been there too as it was a giant milestone in the history of the last century. I visited Berlin for the first and only time many years later in about 2003 and went on a tour of East Berlin and saw the famous Checkpoint Charlie which really brought home to me what it must have been like when the wall was in existence since its building in 1961 and dismantling in 1989. There are still pieces of it around the city which are now tourist locations, especially the part with the painting of the so called "fraternal kiss" between Brezhnev and Honecker. Some 140 people lost their lives trying to cross it and many more people disappeared for which there are no statistics or proof. Walls dividing people are a shame to our society but sadly today there are many examples around the world, not least the one between Morocco and Spain in Ceuta or the wall between the US and Mexico or the one between Palestine and Israel which Eladio and I saw with our own eyes when we visited Israel 10 years or so ago.

Oli, Miguel and little Elliot had had a reasonable night and didn't get up until past 10. By then I had made our lunch and was raring to go on our walk. But there was time to be with little Elliot while they were having breakfast. He really is quite alert for a baby aged just 1 month and 3 weeks as you can see in the video I took of him playing with the toys hanging over his pram. You can see it here.

They left to go swimming and that's when we went on our walk with the dogs, getting home at nearly 2.15. Thus we didn't sit down to lunch until quite late that day.  Later they sent us a superb photo of mother and child, both wearing stripes. It's one of my favourites so far.
Mother and son in stripes  on Saturday
Eladio said they looked like a mother zebra and its little offspring hahahaha.

The rest of the day panned out as usual and it was dinner alone with Eladio with no sign of our guests. Today, Manuel and Gelia are leaving and we won't have any new guests until Thursday. That's hurray in a way as sometimes it's nice to be on our own.

Sunday dawned and it looks like we will get a sunny day although rain is forecast this afternoon. In England it is Remembrance weekend although Remembrance day is actually tomorrow, 11th November. I have searched high and low for an old poppy that might be lurking in one of my desk drawers but can't find one. Wearing a poppy in November evokes memories of my childhood in England as does Guy Fawkes, Pancake Day and all the other lovely English traditions I have no access to here. Those are the things I miss from having chosen a life in Spain.

I shall be accompanying Eladio and Oli to vote later this morning after which they will join us for lunch.

It has been quite a week but tinged with great sadness owing to my dear friend Fátima's heartbreaking news. She has vowed to live every day as intensely as possible and I shall be there to join her.

That's it for this week now my friends. All that remains is to wish you all the best until next Sunday. 

Cheers till then/Masha

Sunday, November 03, 2019

In Montrondo with Kathy and Phil, Oli in Valencia, day trip to León, a hike in the mountains, Elliot goes to the beach, other adventures and home again.

Sunday  3rd November, 2019

Eladio, Pippa and I on the walk up into the mountains on Tuesday
Good morning everyone.

How has your week been? I can't complain about mine.

We continued our stay in Montrondo with our friends from Yorkshire, Phil and Kathy.  Last Sunday was another good day weather wise. That morning I was up early and had our lunch simmering - Spanish cocido stew - which would do so for a few hours, permitting us to go out. And out we went on a long walk to Senra. It was a lovely day and we enjoyed the scenery. I also always enjoy seeing the cattle. These lovely brown coloured cows always pose for me hahaha.
Cows in a field in Murias de Paredes

We went for a drink at the Cumbres de Omaña bar, the one with the grumpy bar owner, but also to get some bread. Unfortunately the bakery was closed. Here we are sitting in the sun having our coffee - well my English friends had wine of course.
Coffee and wine in Senra last Sunday
As we walked back it got warmer and the sun made its appearance. I just love the autumn colours of these birch trees, my father's favourite tree. I love the way the leaves rustle in the wind. They remind me of the film Doctor Zhivago.
The birch trees in their autumn colours on our walk back to Montrondo
Once home, I saw to the cocido while my friends peeled the apples we had picked on a previous walk. Naughtily we decided to make apple crumble which was most delicious.

It was at lunch time that I persuaded Eladio to get out the terrace table and chairs so we could sit outside in the good weather. We sat there after lunch until it felt a little cold, even too cold for my English friends.
Phil on the balcony terrace of our house
I was bowled over when our neighbour, Toño, called round to offer us some of his runner beans. Of course I accepted as I love home grown vegetables. He then came back with bag of beans but also lettuce and a big courgette.
Lovely home grown vegetables from our neighbour Toño.
Before it got dark I took my friends on a tour of the village. They had been here before but about 10 years ago. I think they liked it. Here they are by the newly restored outdoor washing space where women used to wash clothes in the days before washing machines. Eladio well remembers his mother and grandmother washing there. The sun was just setting when we visited and I got this lovely of Phil and Kathy at dusk.
Kathy and Phil by the washing place in Montrondo
We came back to top and tail the beans which we would have with an omelet for dinner followed by a delicious platter of peeled and cut up fruit.

Meanwhile Oli, Miguel and Elliot were in Valencia. Oli was so happy to be away from the confinement of their flat. She sent us a lovely photo of our grandson. I cannot fathom yet who he resembles. She told me all Miguel's friends in Valencia said he looks like him. Maybe.
Our little angel in Valencia
Here too are the proud parents with their little baby who they took to show to Miguel's friends.
Miguel, Elliot and Oli in Valencia
It was even earlier to bed that night as the clocks had gone back the night before.

I woke up to good weather again on Monday. While our friends were with us I was not  taking much notice of the news so nearly missed an important story that day; the killing by US troops of the ISIS Leader, Baghadi. I don't think that means the end of ISIS though. Brexit news couldn't escape me and I was relieved to hear another extension has been approved this time until the end of January. Also dear Boris Johnson tried to get parliament to vote for a new general election but the bill didn't go through. It did through on Tuesday and the date set is for 12th December. Whether the elections will see Brexit over or not is another question. In any case I cannot vote as I have lived outside the UK for  more than 15 years which I think is very unfair. I can't vote here in Spain yet as I am not a Spanish citizen so I live in voting limbo. Damn it. 

We decided Monday was the day to take our friends to see the city of León in North West Spain. It's my husband's family's home town since they left Montrondo in the 60's and it's a town I am familiar with but haven't really visited as a tourist since I was Eladio's girlfriend. It's a beautiful cathedral city but a bit off the tourist map. It's well known for its cold weather and it rains there a lot but on Monday we got glorious sunshine when the temperature reached 22ºc. It's about an hour's drive there and about 11. 30 or so my husband dropped us off near the magnificent San Marcos Parador (state run hotels in ancient buildings) and went to see his mother.  Most paradors are 4 star hotels with just two of them having 5; Santiago de Compostela and León. It is one of the best in Spain.
The Parador in León, a well known landmark of the city.
We were going to have lunch at this magnificent old convent which was founded in the 12th century but unfortunately works were going on and it won't be reopened until next year. Thus our plans were thwarted and we had to find somewhere else for our lunch in the city.

We had a coffee near the square and then walked along La Condesa avenue alongside the tree leafed Bernesga river until we reached the Guzmán square with its statue of Guzmán El Bueno (famous in the Spanish reconquest of the Moors). That took us to the main artery of the town, the Ordoño street, Ordoño being the first king of León. Kathy was keen to see the shops; Zara, Bershka, Stradivarius, etc, but we didn't see anything we liked. We continued along Ordoño until we reached the pretty little square of Santo Domingo dominated by a beautiful Gaudi building (Casa Botines) - there are not many outside Barcelona. There was a demonstration going on this one for better pensions which I can heartily agree with.
Casa Botines by Gaudi in León
From Santo Domingo we continued along a pedestrian precinct until we reached the cathedral, one of the most magnificent in Spain and well known for its stained glass windows. Like Notre Dame it was burned down in the 60's. My husband at the time was a student priest and lived opposite. It was the job of the seminarians to make a human chain to rescue all the important artwork and statues and take them to safety. It was from the fire in León that firefighters around the world learned that water is not the right method to put out a fire at a cathedral as it ruins the stone. The firefighters of the Louvre used the same method as for the fire of the cathedral of León so many years ago.

The Cathedral in León
It was funny to be showing our friends my husband's city as a tourist as I've never really looked at the city with a tourist's eyes.  León has never really been on the tourist map but since the high speed train (El Ave) was built and it only takes 2 hours from Madrid to León the city now has many more tourists. We even saw groups of Japanese and American tourists something I have never ever seen in León before. But I have to say the city was looking great especially in the sunshine. From the cathedral we went in search of the Plaza Mayor and the Barrio Húmedo. There is a plaza mayor (major square) in nearly every big city in Spain and they are all similar and beautiful with their covered cloistered arcades. The Barrio Húmedo is Leon's drinking and eating tapas area and is supposed to be the best in Spain. In León when you order a drink in the bar you always get a free tapa. Here are my friends enjoying their drinks and tapas in the sun at a bar under the arcade of the Plaza Mayor.
Phil and Kathy at the Plaza Mayor
From the square we walked to the nearby drinking area - Barrio Húmedo which literally means humid neighbourhood, the humid referring to liquid hahaha. We looked at a few restaurants to have lunch at, including the all famous, El Besugo. In the end we went for La Pintona in the St. Martin Square because it was sunny and we could eat outside and thus Pippa could be with us. Once he was free, Eladio joined us. I knew he would love the menu as it had all the dishes he adores - mostly ones you can eat with a spoon. We all ate splendidly there from a 14 euro menu of the day. It's a place to go back to.
Lunch at La Pintona in León on Monday
There was one other city landmark I wanted to show my friends and it was the beautiful romanesque Basilica of San Isidoro near the Plaza de Santo Domingo and that's where we headed. It is located on the site of an ancient Roman temple and its Christian roots go back as far as the 10th century. Eladio told us that it was at San Isidoro where he first practiced being a priest, where he took his first confessions and gave mass. I can hardly imagine him.
The San Isidoro Basilica
By then it was getting late and we wanted to be home in Montrondo before it was dark. We were home by about 6.30 just after dusk and all chilled around until I made dinner. I used our neighbour Toño's huge courgette to make a soup to which I added pumpkin and carrots which we had with different cold cuts. After dinner we offered our guests some Spanish turrón ( a sort of brittle nougat) which is very popular here at Christmas. It is made of only almonds and honey and covered in rice paper. They loved it.

Meanwhile Oli was still in Valencia with her adored baby Elliot and Miguel. She sent us another photo of him and one of her sitting on a bench in a park feeding him - she is forever feeding him hahaha. No wonder he is getting bigger and bigger. I love both photos.
Oli in a park in Valencia with little Elliot

Little Elliot in Valencia on Monday
We heard from Suzy too but didn't get a photo although we did get a video. She is happy to be back, singing again and has found great accommodation from a Finnish friend but will only be able to move in in January. She was happy to tell us the apartment has two rooms, meaning we can go and visit her. Wouldn't that be nice?

We all went to bed early that day and I was stunned when I woke up on Tuesday morning to see I had slept until 7.45 (8.45 before the clocks went back). Of course it was light at that time and the sun came out with the promise of another lovely day.

We had planned to have lunch at Cumbres de Omaña in Senra, the bar with the grumpy man but we had no other plans for the day which looked like being another sunny one. Eladio suggested we walk up into the mountains which surround the village and we all agreed. We had done our other two walks so it was time to hike up above Montrondo and enjoy the wonderful autumn colours and the weather. It's quite a hike up but we were in no hurry and took it in our stride. As I commented to Kathy, we would not encounter any other person as this is very much a local walk and pretty unknown to tourists. That's one of the reasons I love it. We took many photos on the way and it's difficult to choose which ones to post here as there are so many. I particularly like this one of my fellow climbers at a good view point of the village on the start of the walk. 
Eladio, Phil and Kathy on our walk
This is the lovely view of the village although a little hidden by the trees which have yet to lose their leaves. Later that night there was a question on Trivial on the name  which of course is deciduous haha. Kathy got it right, clever girl:-)
View of the village from our walk. 
We reached the birch tree forest, possibly the largest in Spain and which is the first landmark on the climb up the mountain path. We always stop there to admire the view. When my father used to come here he loved the birch tree forest, "el abedular" which reminded him of his beloved Scandinavia. Here are Phil and Eladio reading the information about the forest which is famous for its "urogallo" bird, which I think is a capercaillie that belongs to the grouse family.

A bit further up there is a wonderful view of the highest peak in the area, El Tambarón which at just over 2000 metres high, I have climbed twice. It's a whole day's walk there and back and we weren't going to attempt it that day but we touched it with our eyes.
View of the Tambarón peak from the birch tree forest 
We continued our walk until we reached a mountain spring Eladio told us is called "La Canalilla" (literally little canal). We had a drink and took some photos. The one illustrating this week's post is of Eladio, Pippa and I by the spring. I love it. He kindly took one of Kathy and I, two old school friends from St. Joseph's College still friends 50 years later!
Kathy and I by the stream called La Canalilla
We carried on walking up from there until we reached the first of two refuge huts which would be our final destination that day. We had already walked for 1.5 hours and we had to be back on time for our lunch reservation. 

In the hut many people have written their names over the years from the charcoal to be found from the timbers of an open fire that exists there. I found my daughter Suzy's name and the date was 1994; 25 years ago. She would have been 10 at the time. 
Suzy's name from 25 years ago!
Eladio and our names are etched on the refuge hut further up the path. I urged Kathy to write Phil's and her name too and that she did. Here she is in the process, leaving their names for posterity.

Kathy writing Phil's and her name in the hut 
From the "cabaña" (hut) we made our way down and of course the walk down is much faster than the walk up. We were home by just after 1 pm and not long afterwards were in the car on the way to Senra, 4km away. By 2pm we were sitting at our table in the rather nice dining room of the grumpy man's bar. Here are Eladio and Phil about to enjoy a scrumptious meal.
Phil and Eladio at lunch in Senra on Tuesday
I have to say it was a wonderful lunch. For just 12 euros there was a menu of the day with a choice of three first course dishes and three second course dishes. Eladio, Phil and I went for the lentils. We were served a great big pot which was put on our table for us to have as much as we wanted. I only managed one bowl but Eladio managed two they were so delicious.
The tureen of lentils on our table
Me serving the lentils
We staggered out of the restaurant at about 3.30 pm with very full stomachs which were also full of wine. All we could do when we returned home was to take a nap. Pippa and I slept until 6.30 pm and no one would be hungry that night so we did not have dinner. How could we? Eladio and I did have some fruit though.

We had a great evening that night playing Trivial Pursuit. However, the set was a very old Spanish version with out of date questions. Both the fact that the questions were in Spanish and many of them outdated and difficult for our English guests, had us in stitches at many stages. Phil mostly read out the questions in Spanish and then translated them into English for Kathy - she said she was learning a lot of Spanish that night hahaha - Eladio always keen on answering questions often blurted out  answers to questions which weren't his much to our amusement. The whole game, won by Eladio by the way, was great entertainment.  I must get a more updated version and if possible an international one with fewer questions on Spain. Here are my husband and friends around our table playing Trivial.
A hilarious game of Spanish trivial with our English friends
If we were having a good time in Montrondo, Oli, Miguel and Elliot were also having a good time in Valencia. They had great weather too but of course with higher temperatures; in the mid 20s. That day saw them at the beach, Elliot's first time on a beach. Here are the three of them at the Malvarrosa beach in the town.
Oli, Miguel and Elliot on the beach in Valencia on Tuesday
Later Miguel sent me a close up of little Elliot being changed. He was so looking so big, bless the little angel. I do so love him.
Elliot on Tuesday
Our trivial game went on for a long time as it does but saw us in bed not very late at around 11 pm. I read in bed - the first biography written by my beloved Julie Andrews - until I fell asleep.

I was up at 7 am on Wednesday morning. I had some work to do on another press release for Adamo and then got on with the day. I was free by about 11 when we went on our walk this time along the "camino valle" above the river overlooking Murias de Paredes. We had woken up to rain and we were lucky in that it rained all day except for on our walk. On the way back I was delighted to meet up again with my old friends; a grey donkey and a brown shetland pony who live in a field outside Murias.

I only wished I had something to feed them on.  When I saw them they were at the end of the field so I called them. Eladio said they wouldn't come but they did. They are so friendly. I wish I owned a donkey. I always have. Here I am with both of them who were happy for me to stroke them.
With my old friends the donkey and the shetland pony. 
As you can see from the picture the autumn leaves were in full colour. There is a particular point on the old path between Murias and Montrondo that I love best; it's like a corridor of trees and that day it looked particularly pretty. I got Eladio to pose for the picture below.
Eladio and Pippa on the old path returning to Montrondo on Wednesday
We were home by about midday. I had to do some more work which kept me occupied until lunchtime. We had lots of leftovers so that's what I served that day. Eladio was happy because it was all spoon food; bean stew, cocido soup and ribs with potatoes. We finished off the rest of the apple crumble too.

It rained all afternoon so we stayed in. Kathy and Phil spent the time planning their car journey back to England and Eladio and I read on and off. That night I made a very Spanish dinner for our friends; Spanish tortilla, salad which we had with a plate of ham and chorizo, all drowned down by a delicious bottle of Juan Gil from the Jumilla area. It's our favourite and our friends liked it too. Here is the table groaning with delicious food.
The table groaning with food for dinner on Wednesday night
I managed to get a photo of my friends and Eladio around the table before we all dug in.
The Spanish dinner on Wednesday night
Once again we played trivial on our 1995 Spanish family edition which again was hilarious. My husband is not at all interested in board games but likes the questions in Trivial. However, he can't keep his mouth shut when it comes to giving out the answers whether they be for him or for other people. I accused him of spoiling the game but he just kept laughing saying it was part of the fun. This time we played in pairs and we won but only just. It's the pink entertainment and pop questions that stump us. I suggested we skipped them next time but that would be breaking the rules. We were up playing till past midnight so it was a late night for us all on Wednesday.

In Valencia that day Elliot went to the beach with his parents again.  The temperature there was like summer; in the mid to high 20s, some 10 degrees higher than in Montrondo. Here is a lovely picture of him with his mother.
Elliot with his mother on the beach
I doubt he went in the sea but it was so warm, his mother certainly did. No doubt the sea air would have done him a lot of good. I wish I had been there.

On Thursday morning I was up at 7.15 which again is not bad. I woke up to a cloudy sky but no rain. That day I had to send a press release on the acquisition of new networks announced by Adamo in the south west of Spain and in Andalusia. It was not exactly breaking news; more of interest to the regional press so I wasn't expecting much coverage. I would be on tenterhooks all day on the look out for articles. I kept looking on my phone to see the articles come and I was happy to see that they did. This is just one of them.

Thursday of course was 31st October and Halloween. Until recently it was the Brexit leave date but that was not be to be of course. While the rest of the world was treating and tricking, we totally ignored this pagan festival in Montrondo. I was brought up on Mischief Night and Guy Fawkes Night but not on Halloween which when I was a child was exclusively an American celebration. So I'm afraid it means virtually nothing to me but I do hope that those who dressed up and do celebrate it  had a good time.

It was a beautiful day. Although cloudy at the beginning the sun came out later. We set off on our walk after my work was out of the way and stopped to admire the autumn colours the village was clad in from the beginning of the old path to Murias. It looked just lovely.
The village clad in autumn colours
There was a full herd of cows in the field in front of the village and which belong to the local farmer, Manolo. We later encountered him on the old path with his tractor. I asked him how many he had and he told me to count them as he didn't know hahahaha. Here are his cows, all brown, except for one black one. I got Phil and Kath to pose for the picture.
The field with Manolo's cows with Kath and Phil posing for the camera
This time we had brought along some bread for my friends the donkey and the pony but unfortunately they were nowhere to be seen. The good thing about having friends with us this week is that they could take photos of the two of us. Normally we are on our own and that's not possible. Here we are with Pippa just as we got to Murias de Paredes.
Eladio and I on our walk on Thursday
We continued onto Senra, the next village, which would make an overall of about 8 km of walking although it isn't very strenuous. Waiting for us at the only bar there, Cumbres de Omaña, was a rewarding cup of coffee for Eladio and I and a rewarding glass of wine for our friends. The sun came out and we all regretted not having brought our sunglasses.
The rewarding coffee and wine awaiting us at Senra
It was so warm I had to take off both my coat and my jumper and walked all the way back in short sleeves; something pretty unheard of in Montrondo at this time of year. We had ordered a loaf of bread from the baker who delivers it daily except for Sundays and we were happy to see it hanging in my bread bag on the gate to our property. My neighbour Salo made it for me when we built the house here.
Our bag of bread
It was time for lunch when we got back. I was running out of provisions after a week in the village but managed to rustle up a delicious lunch of "bitki" (Russian hambugers) accompanied by our neighbour's runner beans, some red peppers and grilled mushrooms. We had no fruit left after a week away so naughtily had some turrón (Spanish Christmas brittle nougat) and chocolate. Thus we all had heavy stomachs after lunch and took a long siesta.

Thankfully the general food delivery van was in the village by about 7 pm and I was able to stock up on some provisions. I bought the minimum as we had planned to go shopping in Villablino the following day, Friday, to the supermarket there, Gadis, and to the weekly open market. Our plans were later thwarted as we had forgotten 1st November, All Saints' Day, is a holiday here and everything would be closed.

After a delicious dinner of tuna fish salad, instead of playing Trivial Pursuit which I suspect my husband doesn't like to play we played a game I haven't played for years; 20 questions. That was fun and had us up till quite late. I think we went to bed at midnight.

Just before going to bed, we were rewarded with a lovely photo of Elliot smiling at his mother. He looks so sweet and so alert for a baby who is only one and a half months old.
Little Elliot smiling at his mother.
Friday came, All Saints' Day, and our friends would be leaving in the morning. We were all disappointed the market in Villablino was closed. The good weather disappeared on Friday although it would be quite warm in Asturias where our friends were heading next. In Valencia the temperature reached nearly 30ºc and once again Elliot went to the beach.
Elliot on the beach again on Friday in Valencia
The news was full of packed beaches on the Costas, especially the Costa del Sol. Lucky them I thought while it rained all day and the temperature didn't rise above 12ºc in Montrondo. We had a whatsapp video call with Oli and were able to see just how much Elliot had grown since we last saw him. Gone are his problems with feeding thankfully.

Phil and Kathy left at about 11 o'clock in the rain. They will be making an adventure of their trip back to the UK with lots of interesting stops in Spain and France. That day saw them in Lastres, a pretty  little fishing village in Asturias. They would be staying at a period family hotel and restaurant there called Eutemio which we know from a trip to the area. I would love to go back as Asturias is one of my favourite areas in Spain.

When our friends left, we got down to work. I washed the sheets and towels and Eladio hoovered. We try to keep our lovely mountain house spick and span but that day we found lots of cobwebs which had gone undetected till now. I spent some of my time reading and working but did not cook as we had booked a table for lunch at Cumbres de Omaña in Senra. We got the last table available.
The dining room at Cumbres de Omaña
When we got there we were the second people to enter the pretty dining room but by the end of our meal the dining room was completely full. Of course it was because 1st November was a national holiday. Plenty of people in Spain would be taking flowers to their deceased loved ones' graves on what was All Saints' Day.

Lunch was good and we  felt quite full when we left. Eladio liked the choice on the menu of the day at 17 euros each more than I did, especially the sea food soup. Again a tureen was placed on the table for him to take his fill.
Eladio enjoying lunch at Senra on 1st November
During lunch I was interrupted by my 5 Colombian Airbnb guests arriving but thankfully Lucy would look after them well. The next day 4 French people would be arriving and the following day a group of Chinese guests. My November calendar is quite full this year which is unusual as it is normally a very quiet month.

We came home during a brief spell in the rain and I hoped that later on we would be able to get our walk in but that was not to be. We spent a lazy afternoon in the house on our own with Pippa until it was time for dinner but all I wanted was some fruit, followed naughtily again by more chocolate. We then watched the news and at 10 pm saw the first political debate for the upcoming general elections on 10th November.
Eladio watching the debate on Saturday night in Montrondo with uninterested Pippa by his side. 
In the old days there would have been just two candidates from the PP and PSOE right and left wing parties, but that night there were 7 representatives from 7 parties. My conclusion at the end was that we shall be heading to a similar outcome from the elections 6 months ago; i.e. a hung parliament and wonder whether this time if whoever the winner is will be able to form a government with the support of other parties. The debate finished late and we were not in bed until past midnight.

I woke up at 6.30 on Saturday morning the day we were leaving for home. We had been in Montrondo for 9 whole days and it was time to go home; time to see my father and Elliot and also time to replenish the provisions which no doubt would be down to the minimum.

It didn't take us long to pack, wash and change the sheets etc and by 10.15 we were in the car. As I went to take the rubbish to the dustbin I took one last look at the village and took one last photo.  We would miss our little village and our home away from home. But  hopefully we will be back  soon.
One last photo of Montrondo before we left yesterday morning. 
We stopped in León to see Eladio's mother before we drove home. The poor lady had rather a bad cold and didn't recognise her oldest son. Old age can be very cruel indeed. It's great to live to an old age but not great if you have lost your memory. It was rather a depressing visit to say the least. We left at about 13h and drove out of the city. We stopped for lunch in Benavente, a rather ugly town near León, not famous for much. There is a rather rude expression to describe this town its name really meaning "good wind". Eladio has always remembered that it is described as "Buena villa y mala gente" (nice town, nasty people) which always makes me laugh. The only saving grace of this boring little place is its parador built from a medieval tower. We had lunch there and it was so so this time, not least because the service was rather slow. We didn't leave until 15.15. While Eladio drove I read and nodded off occasionally until we were home.

It was good to be back and great to see my father. What was rather depressing was going into our room and finding few traces of Suzy who had left for Bali the day we left for Montrondo. Oh how sad not to find her at home. I felt very empty inside as I cleared away her things, the ones she couldn't fit in her luggage to take with her.

No sooner had we arrived than our new set of Airbnb guests arrived, two French couples who had driven from Málaga. They are from Paris, or rather Versailles. As they spoke literally no Spanish or English, I had to get out my French which even I think has improved since my lessons last year. Well, I can talk the basics; not much more, but more than enough to host French guests. They looked like pensioners but I'm not sure. They loved their rooms but quickly left the house to go out to dinner. Eladio and I ate what we could find in our rather empty fridge and were soon in our own quarters and in our soft and comfortable bed. It's much more comfortable than the one in Montrondo. We partly watched yet another political debate but I soon fell asleep.

I woke up to a bright autumn day today. Let's see how the weather behaves and I hope we can go on our walk. We need it and so do the dogs. Poor Norah and Elsa have been deprived of their walks since we left.

Hopefully today we shall see little Elliot, maybe for dinner and I can't wait.

I have reached the end of the stories of this week. All that remains is to wish you all a happy Sunday and great week ahead.

Cheers till next week my friends,
Masha