In Montrondo with Kathy and Phil, Oli in Valencia, day trip to León, a hike in the mountains, Elliot goes to the beach, other adventures and home again.

Sunday  3rd November, 2019

Eladio, Pippa and I on the walk up into the mountains on Tuesday

Good morning everyone.

How has your week been? I can't complain about mine.

We continued our stay in Montrondo with our friends from Yorkshire, Phil and Kathy.  Last Sunday was another good day weather wise. That morning I was up early and had our lunch simmering - Spanish cocido stew - which would do so for a few hours, permitting us to go out. And out we went on a long walk to Senra. It was a lovely day and we enjoyed the scenery. I also always enjoy seeing the cattle. These lovely brown coloured cows always pose for me hahaha.

Cows in a field in Murias de Paredes

We went for a drink at the Cumbres de Omaña bar, the one with the grumpy bar owner, but also to get some bread. Unfortunately the bakery was closed. Here we are sitting in the sun having our coffee - well my English friends had wine of course.

Coffee and wine in Senra last Sunday

As we walked back it got warmer and the sun made its appearance. I just love the autumn colours of these birch trees, my father's favourite tree. I love the way the leaves rustle in the wind. They remind me of the film Doctor Zhivago.

The birch trees in their autumn colours on our walk back to Montrondo

Once home, I saw to the cocido while my friends peeled the apples we had picked on a previous walk. Naughtily we decided to make apple crumble which was most delicious.

It was at lunch time that I persuaded Eladio to get out the terrace table and chairs so we could sit outside in the good weather. We sat there after lunch until it felt a little cold, even too cold for my English friends.

Phil on the balcony terrace of our house

I was bowled over when our neighbour, Toño, called round to offer us some of his runner beans. Of course I accepted as I love home grown vegetables. He then came back with bag of beans but also lettuce and a big courgette.

Lovely home grown vegetables from our neighbour Toño.

Before it got dark I took my friends on a tour of the village. They had been here before but about 10 years ago. I think they liked it. Here they are by the newly restored outdoor washing space where women used to wash clothes in the days before washing machines. Eladio well remembers his mother and grandmother washing there. The sun was just setting when we visited and I got this lovely of Phil and Kathy at dusk.

Kathy and Phil by the washing place in Montrondo

We came back to top and tail the beans which we would have with an omelet for dinner followed by a delicious platter of peeled and cut up fruit.

Meanwhile Oli, Miguel and Elliot were in Valencia. Oli was so happy to be away from the confinement of their flat. She sent us a lovely photo of our grandson. I cannot fathom yet who he resembles. She told me all Miguel's friends in Valencia said he looks like him. Maybe.

Our little angel in Valencia

Here too are the proud parents with their little baby who they took to show to Miguel's friends.

Miguel, Elliot and Oli in Valencia

It was even earlier to bed that night as the clocks had gone back the night before.

I woke up to good weather again on Monday. While our friends were with us I was not  taking much notice of the news so nearly missed an important story that day; the killing by US troops of the ISIS Leader, Baghadi. I don't think that means the end of ISIS though. Brexit news couldn't escape me and I was relieved to hear another extension has been approved this time until the end of January. Also dear Boris Johnson tried to get parliament to vote for a new general election but the bill didn't go through. It did through on Tuesday and the date set is for 12th December. Whether the elections will see Brexit over or not is another question. In any case I cannot vote as I have lived outside the UK for  more than 15 years which I think is very unfair. I can't vote here in Spain yet as I am not a Spanish citizen so I live in voting limbo. Damn it. 

We decided Monday was the day to take our friends to see the city of León in North West Spain. It's my husband's family's home town since they left Montrondo in the 60's and it's a town I am familiar with but haven't really visited as a tourist since I was Eladio's girlfriend. It's a beautiful cathedral city but a bit off the tourist map. It's well known for its cold weather and it rains there a lot but on Monday we got glorious sunshine when the temperature reached 22ºc. It's about an hour's drive there and about 11. 30 or so my husband dropped us off near the magnificent San Marcos Parador (state run hotels in ancient buildings) and went to see his mother.  Most paradors are 4 star hotels with just two of them having 5; Santiago de Compostela and León. It is one of the best in Spain.

The Parador in León, a well known landmark of the city.

We were going to have lunch at this magnificent old convent which was founded in the 12th century but unfortunately works were going on and it won't be reopened until next year. Thus our plans were thwarted and we had to find somewhere else for our lunch in the city.

We had a coffee near the square and then walked along La Condesa avenue alongside the tree leafed Bernesga river until we reached the Guzmán square with its statue of Guzmán El Bueno (famous in the Spanish reconquest of the Moors). That took us to the main artery of the town, the Ordoño street, Ordoño being the first king of León. Kathy was keen to see the shops; Zara, Bershka, Stradivarius, etc, but we didn't see anything we liked. We continued along Ordoño until we reached the pretty little square of Santo Domingo dominated by a beautiful Gaudi building (Casa Botines) - there are not many outside Barcelona. There was a demonstration going on this one for better pensions which I can heartily agree with.

Casa Botines by Gaudi in León

From Santo Domingo we continued along a pedestrian precinct until we reached the cathedral, one of the most magnificent in Spain and well known for its stained glass windows. Like Notre Dame it was burned down in the 60's. My husband at the time was a student priest and lived opposite. It was the job of the seminarians to make a human chain to rescue all the important artwork and statues and take them to safety. It was from the fire in León that firefighters around the world learned that water is not the right method to put out a fire at a cathedral as it ruins the stone. The firefighters of the Louvre used the same method as for the fire of the cathedral of León so many years ago.

The Cathedral in León

It was funny to be showing our friends my husband's city as a tourist as I've never really looked at the city with a tourist's eyes.  León has never really been on the tourist map but since the high speed train (El Ave) was built and it only takes 2 hours from Madrid to León the city now has many more tourists. We even saw groups of Japanese and American tourists something I have never ever seen in León before. But I have to say the city was looking great especially in the sunshine. From the cathedral we went in search of the Plaza Mayor and the Barrio Húmedo. There is a plaza mayor (major square) in nearly every big city in Spain and they are all similar and beautiful with their covered cloistered arcades. The Barrio Húmedo is Leon's drinking and eating tapas area and is supposed to be the best in Spain. In León when you order a drink in the bar you always get a free tapa. Here are my friends enjoying their drinks and tapas in the sun at a bar under the arcade of the Plaza Mayor.

Phil and Kathy at the Plaza Mayor

From the square we walked to the nearby drinking area - Barrio Húmedo which literally means humid neighbourhood, the humid referring to liquid hahaha. We looked at a few restaurants to have lunch at, including the all famous, El Besugo. In the end we went for La Pintona in the St. Martin Square because it was sunny and we could eat outside and thus Pippa could be with us. Once he was free, Eladio joined us. I knew he would love the menu as it had all the dishes he adores - mostly ones you can eat with a spoon. We all ate splendidly there from a 14 euro menu of the day. It's a place to go back to.

Lunch at La Pintona in León on Monday

There was one other city landmark I wanted to show my friends and it was the beautiful romanesque Basilica of San Isidoro near the Plaza de Santo Domingo and that's where we headed. It is located on the site of an ancient Roman temple and its Christian roots go back as far as the 10th century. Eladio told us that it was at San Isidoro where he first practiced being a priest, where he took his first confessions and gave mass. I can hardly imagine him.

The San Isidoro Basilica

By then it was getting late and we wanted to be home in Montrondo before it was dark. We were home by about 6.30 just after dusk and all chilled around until I made dinner. I used our neighbour Toño's huge courgette to make a soup to which I added pumpkin and carrots which we had with different cold cuts. After dinner we offered our guests some Spanish turrón ( a sort of brittle nougat) which is very popular here at Christmas. It is made of only almonds and honey and covered in rice paper. They loved it.

Meanwhile Oli was still in Valencia with her adored baby Elliot and Miguel. She sent us another photo of him and one of her sitting on a bench in a park feeding him - she is forever feeding him hahaha. No wonder he is getting bigger and bigger. I love both photos.

Oli in a park in Valencia with little Elliot

Little Elliot in Valencia on Monday

We heard from Suzy too but didn't get a photo although we did get a video. She is happy to be back, singing again and has found great accommodation from a Finnish friend but will only be able to move in in January. She was happy to tell us the apartment has two rooms, meaning we can go and visit her. Wouldn't that be nice?

We all went to bed early that day and I was stunned when I woke up on Tuesday morning to see I had slept until 7.45 (8.45 before the clocks went back). Of course it was light at that time and the sun came out with the promise of another lovely day.

We had planned to have lunch at Cumbres de Omaña in Senra, the bar with the grumpy man but we had no other plans for the day which looked like being another sunny one. Eladio suggested we walk up into the mountains which surround the village and we all agreed. We had done our other two walks so it was time to hike up above Montrondo and enjoy the wonderful autumn colours and the weather. It's quite a hike up but we were in no hurry and took it in our stride. As I commented to Kathy, we would not encounter any other person as this is very much a local walk and pretty unknown to tourists. That's one of the reasons I love it. We took many photos on the way and it's difficult to choose which ones to post here as there are so many. I particularly like this one of my fellow climbers at a good view point of the village on the start of the walk. 

Eladio, Phil and Kathy on our walk

This is the lovely view of the village although a little hidden by the trees which have yet to lose their leaves. Later that night there was a question on Trivial on the name  which of course is deciduous haha. Kathy got it right, clever girl:-)

View of the village from our walk. 

We reached the birch tree forest, possibly the largest in Spain and which is the first landmark on the climb up the mountain path. We always stop there to admire the view. When my father used to come here he loved the birch tree forest, "el abedular" which reminded him of his beloved Scandinavia. Here are Phil and Eladio reading the information about the forest which is famous for its "urogallo" bird, which I think is a capercaillie that belongs to the grouse family.

A bit further up there is a wonderful view of the highest peak in the area, El Tambarón which at just over 2000 metres high, I have climbed twice. It's a whole day's walk there and back and we weren't going to attempt it that day but we touched it with our eyes.

View of the Tambarón peak from the birch tree forest 

We continued our walk until we reached a mountain spring Eladio told us is called "La Canalilla" (literally little canal). We had a drink and took some photos. The one illustrating this week's post is of Eladio, Pippa and I by the spring. I love it. He kindly took one of Kathy and I, two old school friends from St. Joseph's College still friends 50 years later!

Kathy and I by the stream called La Canalilla

We carried on walking up from there until we reached the first of two refuge huts which would be our final destination that day. We had already walked for 1.5 hours and we had to be back on time for our lunch reservation. 

In the hut many people have written their names over the years from the charcoal to be found from the timbers of an open fire that exists there. I found my daughter Suzy's name and the date was 1994; 25 years ago. She would have been 10 at the time. 

Suzy's name from 25 years ago!

Eladio and our names are etched on the refuge hut further up the path. I urged Kathy to write Phil's and her name too and that she did. Here she is in the process, leaving their names for posterity.

Kathy writing Phil's and her name in the hut 

From the "cabaña" (hut) we made our way down and of course the walk down is much faster than the walk up. We were home by just after 1 pm and not long afterwards were in the car on the way to Senra, 4km away. By 2pm we were sitting at our table in the rather nice dining room of the grumpy man's bar. Here are Eladio and Phil about to enjoy a scrumptious meal.

Phil and Eladio at lunch in Senra on Tuesday

I have to say it was a wonderful lunch. For just 12 euros there was a menu of the day with a choice of three first course dishes and three second course dishes. Eladio, Phil and I went for the lentils. We were served a great big pot which was put on our table for us to have as much as we wanted. I only managed one bowl but Eladio managed two they were so delicious.

The tureen of lentils on our table

Me serving the lentils

We staggered out of the restaurant at about 3.30 pm with very full stomachs which were also full of wine. All we could do when we returned home was to take a nap. Pippa and I slept until 6.30 pm and no one would be hungry that night so we did not have dinner. How could we? Eladio and I did have some fruit though.

We had a great evening that night playing Trivial Pursuit. However, the set was a very old Spanish version with out of date questions. Both the fact that the questions were in Spanish and many of them outdated and difficult for our English guests, had us in stitches at many stages. Phil mostly read out the questions in Spanish and then translated them into English for Kathy - she said she was learning a lot of Spanish that night hahaha - Eladio always keen on answering questions often blurted out  answers to questions which weren't his much to our amusement. The whole game, won by Eladio by the way, was great entertainment.  I must get a more updated version and if possible an international one with fewer questions on Spain. Here are my husband and friends around our table playing Trivial.

A hilarious game of Spanish trivial with our English friends

If we were having a good time in Montrondo, Oli, Miguel and Elliot were also having a good time in Valencia. They had great weather too but of course with higher temperatures; in the mid 20s. That day saw them at the beach, Elliot's first time on a beach. Here are the three of them at the Malvarrosa beach in the town.

Oli, Miguel and Elliot on the beach in Valencia on Tuesday

Later Miguel sent me a close up of little Elliot being changed. He was so looking so big, bless the little angel. I do so love him.

Elliot on Tuesday

Our trivial game went on for a long time as it does but saw us in bed not very late at around 11 pm. I read in bed - the first biography written by my beloved Julie Andrews - until I fell asleep.

I was up at 7 am on Wednesday morning. I had some work to do on another press release for Adamo and then got on with the day. I was free by about 11 when we went on our walk this time along the "camino valle" above the river overlooking Murias de Paredes. We had woken up to rain and we were lucky in that it rained all day except for on our walk. On the way back I was delighted to meet up again with my old friends; a grey donkey and a brown shetland pony who live in a field outside Murias.

I only wished I had something to feed them on.  When I saw them they were at the end of the field so I called them. Eladio said they wouldn't come but they did. They are so friendly. I wish I owned a donkey. I always have. Here I am with both of them who were happy for me to stroke them.

With my old friends the donkey and the shetland pony. 

As you can see from the picture the autumn leaves were in full colour. There is a particular point on the old path between Murias and Montrondo that I love best; it's like a corridor of trees and that day it looked particularly pretty. I got Eladio to pose for the picture below.

Eladio and Pippa on the old path returning to Montrondo on Wednesday

We were home by about midday. I had to do some more work which kept me occupied until lunchtime. We had lots of leftovers so that's what I served that day. Eladio was happy because it was all spoon food; bean stew, cocido soup and ribs with potatoes. We finished off the rest of the apple crumble too.

It rained all afternoon so we stayed in. Kathy and Phil spent the time planning their car journey back to England and Eladio and I read on and off. That night I made a very Spanish dinner for our friends; Spanish tortilla, salad which we had with a plate of ham and chorizo, all drowned down by a delicious bottle of Juan Gil from the Jumilla area. It's our favourite and our friends liked it too. Here is the table groaning with delicious food.

The table groaning with food for dinner on Wednesday night

I managed to get a photo of my friends and Eladio around the table before we all dug in.

The Spanish dinner on Wednesday night

Once again we played trivial on our 1995 Spanish family edition which again was hilarious. My husband is not at all interested in board games but likes the questions in Trivial. However, he can't keep his mouth shut when it comes to giving out the answers whether they be for him or for other people. I accused him of spoiling the game but he just kept laughing saying it was part of the fun. This time we played in pairs and we won but only just. It's the pink entertainment and pop questions that stump us. I suggested we skipped them next time but that would be breaking the rules. We were up playing till past midnight so it was a late night for us all on Wednesday.

In Valencia that day Elliot went to the beach with his parents again.  The temperature there was like summer; in the mid to high 20s, some 10 degrees higher than in Montrondo. Here is a lovely picture of him with his mother.

Elliot with his mother on the beach

I doubt he went in the sea but it was so warm, his mother certainly did. No doubt the sea air would have done him a lot of good. I wish I had been there.

On Thursday morning I was up at 7.15 which again is not bad. I woke up to a cloudy sky but no rain. That day I had to send a press release on the acquisition of new networks announced by Adamo in the south west of Spain and in Andalusia. It was not exactly breaking news; more of interest to the regional press so I wasn't expecting much coverage. I would be on tenterhooks all day on the look out for articles. I kept looking on my phone to see the articles come and I was happy to see that they did. This is just one of them.

Thursday of course was 31st October and Halloween. Until recently it was the Brexit leave date but that was not be to be of course. While the rest of the world was treating and tricking, we totally ignored this pagan festival in Montrondo. I was brought up on Mischief Night and Guy Fawkes Night but not on Halloween which when I was a child was exclusively an American celebration. So I'm afraid it means virtually nothing to me but I do hope that those who dressed up and do celebrate it  had a good time.

It was a beautiful day. Although cloudy at the beginning the sun came out later. We set off on our walk after my work was out of the way and stopped to admire the autumn colours the village was clad in from the beginning of the old path to Murias. It looked just lovely.

The village clad in autumn colours

There was a full herd of cows in the field in front of the village and which belong to the local farmer, Manolo. We later encountered him on the old path with his tractor. I asked him how many he had and he told me to count them as he didn't know hahahaha. Here are his cows, all brown, except for one black one. I got Phil and Kath to pose for the picture.

The field with Manolo's cows with Kath and Phil posing for the camera

This time we had brought along some bread for my friends the donkey and the pony but unfortunately they were nowhere to be seen. The good thing about having friends with us this week is that they could take photos of the two of us. Normally we are on our own and that's not possible. Here we are with Pippa just as we got to Murias de Paredes.

Eladio and I on our walk on Thursday

We continued onto Senra, the next village, which would make an overall of about 8 km of walking although it isn't very strenuous. Waiting for us at the only bar there, Cumbres de Omaña, was a rewarding cup of coffee for Eladio and I and a rewarding glass of wine for our friends. The sun came out and we all regretted not having brought our sunglasses.

The rewarding coffee and wine awaiting us at Senra

It was so warm I had to take off both my coat and my jumper and walked all the way back in short sleeves; something pretty unheard of in Montrondo at this time of year. We had ordered a loaf of bread from the baker who delivers it daily except for Sundays and we were happy to see it hanging in my bread bag on the gate to our property. My neighbour Salo made it for me when we built the house here.

Our bag of bread

It was time for lunch when we got back. I was running out of provisions after a week in the village but managed to rustle up a delicious lunch of "bitki" (Russian hambugers) accompanied by our neighbour's runner beans, some red peppers and grilled mushrooms. We had no fruit left after a week away so naughtily had some turrón (Spanish Christmas brittle nougat) and chocolate. Thus we all had heavy stomachs after lunch and took a long siesta.

Thankfully the general food delivery van was in the village by about 7 pm and I was able to stock up on some provisions. I bought the minimum as we had planned to go shopping in Villablino the following day, Friday, to the supermarket there, Gadis, and to the weekly open market. Our plans were later thwarted as we had forgotten 1st November, All Saints' Day, is a holiday here and everything would be closed.

After a delicious dinner of tuna fish salad, instead of playing Trivial Pursuit which I suspect my husband doesn't like to play we played a game I haven't played for years; 20 questions. That was fun and had us up till quite late. I think we went to bed at midnight.

Just before going to bed, we were rewarded with a lovely photo of Elliot smiling at his mother. He looks so sweet and so alert for a baby who is only one and a half months old.

Little Elliot smiling at his mother.

Friday came, All Saints' Day, and our friends would be leaving in the morning. We were all disappointed the market in Villablino was closed. The good weather disappeared on Friday although it would be quite warm in Asturias where our friends were heading next. In Valencia the temperature reached nearly 30ºc and once again Elliot went to the beach.

Elliot on the beach again on Friday in Valencia

The news was full of packed beaches on the Costas, especially the Costa del Sol. Lucky them I thought while it rained all day and the temperature didn't rise above 12ºc in Montrondo. We had a whatsapp video call with Oli and were able to see just how much Elliot had grown since we last saw him. Gone are his problems with feeding thankfully.

Phil and Kathy left at about 11 o'clock in the rain. They will be making an adventure of their trip back to the UK with lots of interesting stops in Spain and France. That day saw them in Lastres, a pretty  little fishing village in Asturias. They would be staying at a period family hotel and restaurant there called Eutemio which we know from a trip to the area. I would love to go back as Asturias is one of my favourite areas in Spain.

When our friends left, we got down to work. I washed the sheets and towels and Eladio hoovered. We try to keep our lovely mountain house spick and span but that day we found lots of cobwebs which had gone undetected till now. I spent some of my time reading and working but did not cook as we had booked a table for lunch at Cumbres de Omaña in Senra. We got the last table available.

The dining room at Cumbres de Omaña

When we got there we were the second people to enter the pretty dining room but by the end of our meal the dining room was completely full. Of course it was because 1st November was a national holiday. Plenty of people in Spain would be taking flowers to their deceased loved ones' graves on what was All Saints' Day.

Lunch was good and we  felt quite full when we left. Eladio liked the choice on the menu of the day at 17 euros each more than I did, especially the sea food soup. Again a tureen was placed on the table for him to take his fill.

Eladio enjoying lunch at Senra on 1st November

During lunch I was interrupted by my 5 Colombian Airbnb guests arriving but thankfully Lucy would look after them well. The next day 4 French people would be arriving and the following day a group of Chinese guests. My November calendar is quite full this year which is unusual as it is normally a very quiet month.

We came home during a brief spell in the rain and I hoped that later on we would be able to get our walk in but that was not to be. We spent a lazy afternoon in the house on our own with Pippa until it was time for dinner but all I wanted was some fruit, followed naughtily again by more chocolate. We then watched the news and at 10 pm saw the first political debate for the upcoming general elections on 10th November.

Eladio watching the debate on Saturday night in Montrondo with uninterested Pippa by his side. 

In the old days there would have been just two candidates from the PP and PSOE right and left wing parties, but that night there were 7 representatives from 7 parties. My conclusion at the end was that we shall be heading to a similar outcome from the elections 6 months ago; i.e. a hung parliament and wonder whether this time if whoever the winner is will be able to form a government with the support of other parties. The debate finished late and we were not in bed until past midnight.

I woke up at 6.30 on Saturday morning the day we were leaving for home. We had been in Montrondo for 9 whole days and it was time to go home; time to see my father and Elliot and also time to replenish the provisions which no doubt would be down to the minimum.

It didn't take us long to pack, wash and change the sheets etc and by 10.15 we were in the car. As I went to take the rubbish to the dustbin I took one last look at the village and took one last photo.  We would miss our little village and our home away from home. But  hopefully we will be back  soon.

One last photo of Montrondo before we left yesterday morning. 

We stopped in León to see Eladio's mother before we drove home. The poor lady had rather a bad cold and didn't recognise her oldest son. Old age can be very cruel indeed. It's great to live to an old age but not great if you have lost your memory. It was rather a depressing visit to say the least. We left at about 13h and drove out of the city. We stopped for lunch in Benavente, a rather ugly town near León, not famous for much. There is a rather rude expression to describe this town its name really meaning "good wind". Eladio has always remembered that it is described as "Buena villa y mala gente" (nice town, nasty people) which always makes me laugh. The only saving grace of this boring little place is its parador built from a medieval tower. We had lunch there and it was so so this time, not least because the service was rather slow. We didn't leave until 15.15. While Eladio drove I read and nodded off occasionally until we were home.

It was good to be back and great to see my father. What was rather depressing was going into our room and finding few traces of Suzy who had left for Bali the day we left for Montrondo. Oh how sad not to find her at home. I felt very empty inside as I cleared away her things, the ones she couldn't fit in her luggage to take with her.

No sooner had we arrived than our new set of Airbnb guests arrived, two French couples who had driven from Málaga. They are from Paris, or rather Versailles. As they spoke literally no Spanish or English, I had to get out my French which even I think has improved since my lessons last year. Well, I can talk the basics; not much more, but more than enough to host French guests. They looked like pensioners but I'm not sure. They loved their rooms but quickly left the house to go out to dinner. Eladio and I ate what we could find in our rather empty fridge and were soon in our own quarters and in our soft and comfortable bed. It's much more comfortable than the one in Montrondo. We partly watched yet another political debate but I soon fell asleep.

I woke up to a bright autumn day today. Let's see how the weather behaves and I hope we can go on our walk. We need it and so do the dogs. Poor Norah and Elsa have been deprived of their walks since we left.

Hopefully today we shall see little Elliot, maybe for dinner and I can't wait.

I have reached the end of the stories of this week. All that remains is to wish you all a happy Sunday and great week ahead.

Cheers till next week my friends,
Masha