La Teilée, France, 19th August 2017
Hello all,
I am late with my
blog but that's because I am in France and have been to a wedding and spending
time with my Franco Russian cousins. So let me catch up slowly as I write from my cousin Zuka's lovely house in La Teillée, near Poitiers, in very rural France.
I left off a while
ago, on Sunday 6th August. It was to be our last day in Montrondo. Again we had
a super breakfast together, Eladio, Oli and I as you can see in the photo
below.
Our typical breakfast in Montrondo |
That morning, Oli,
Pippa and I went on our last walk to Senra and back. On our way we passed a
house with the typical wooden clogs they wear in the area, on the steps. I had
to take a photo to show you. People here wear them with their slippers inside
so that they can walk in the mud or in the past when they tended the cows. They
then leave them on the steps and enter the house with their clean slippers on.
They are quite heavy and have 4 small stilts to avoid contact with the dirt. I
cannot wear them as I tend to fall. Eladio wears them naturally however.
"Madreñas" (wooden clogs) worn in Montrondo |
It was a long way
home from Senra in the sun. After lunch and another game of ludo which Oli won,
it was time to pack to go which is a ritual I never really like. We left at
about 5.30 with a heavy heart as we didn't want to leave our beautiful country
house and return to hot Madrid. It was a long drive home (4 hours) and we were
home by 9.30 to greet my Father, Lucy and of course the dogs. Unfortunately
Lucy had hurt her hand when putting socks on my Father's feet, which together
with a cramp in her back meant she wasn't able to take him upstairs to the
dining room. I felt bad about that.
The best thing
about being home was sleeping in our own bed which is much more comfortable
then our cheapo Ikea one in our house in the village. What I did miss was the
cool of the night in Montrondo as at home we had to sleep with the air
conditioning on. It's been such a hot summer, the hottest in all the time
I have lived in Spain.
Monday was back to
usual and home routine as well as getting ready for our next set of Airbnb
guests, an English family from Rushden in Northamptonshire. While Eladio did
some repairs and cleaned the pool I went on my walk on my own. It was so hot I
had to walk around the urbanization on the pavement rather than going on my
usual path in the hot, dusty and dry fields. Later Oli and I went out to buy
presents for my cousins in France. We also got some stuff from Carrefour, the
French supermarket - the French have always fed the Spanish since Napoleon's
times (hahah) and you find all the big French department stores in Spain. You
never see it vice versa. In any case the Carrefour in Majadahonda is probably
one of the best in Spain. We then had lunch together, with my Father of course
and afterwards Oli and I spent time by the pool.
When my English
guests arrived, she disappeared as she is not that keen on meeting our Airbnb
guests as she feels a little invaded. I do too but it's how I earn my money
these days so I have to do it the best I can. I give everyone a warm welcome
but receiving English guests is always my preferred nationality because of the
synergies. They were a lovely family but who I fell in love with was their 6
year old boy, Brody who was a laugh a minute. He was also very bright and
was keen to learn Spanish. His first words were "hola señorita". He
was avid to learn new Spanish words and I taught him quite a few. As soon as he
could, he went straight into the pool and later said he never wanted to come out
bless him. He and Pippa didn't see eye to eye and I had to keep Pippa away from
him until one day he bumped into her on the steps and waited patiently for me
to come out and rescue him and get her to stop barking. He then said to me:
"you must remember to keep Pippa with you as I am always bound to bump into
her at some time". What a funny little boy he was, adorable really.
Thankfully for our
English guests, Tuesday was suddenly cooler. I don't think they could
have stood the high 30ºs. I had lots of errands to do that day, such as a
bank transfer of cancellation fees to the bothersome Airbnb American lady who after
about 4 months of whatsapping and emailing finally decided not to come and left
me in the lurch. On the bright side that morning, Oli and I went to the market
in Majadahonda where I had to pick up the covers for our sofa in Santa Pola. Of
course we also looked at the great clothes and of course we bought some. I got
a great blue short jumpsuit which I have been wearing nearly every day since. I
also got some colourful flat summer shoes which I adore.
So, happy with our
purchases, we came home to lunch with Eladio and my Father. Our UK guests
spent all day at the pool. In fact in all their 5 days with us they hardly
ventured out as the kids just wanted to be by the pool all the time. In Brody's
case, he wanted to be in it all day and at one stage said he was
"shivering with happiness" - words out of a baby's mouth haha.
On Wednesday I was up early as usual. I was going away to France the next day for 12 days so preparations were in order. But of course before doing anything I went for a walk with Eladio and the dogs. This time I was wearing my new jump suit and the colourful shoes. I felt like a little girl, despite being 60 haha.
Wearing my new jump suit and colourful shoes and feeling like a girl again. |
Before leaving for France I had to make sure there were enough provisions in the house until I come back. So off we went to do the food shopping but before getting to Mercadona, our local supermarket, we went to have a cup of coffee which very naughtily was accompanied by churros and porras (the thicker version I prefer). It would mean I wouldn't be very hungry for lunch that day.
Churros and porras with coffee on Wednesday with Eladio |
We spent the afternoon by the pool or rather at the end of the pool under the trees in the shade while our English guests sat in the sun. It's so funny how the Spaniards try to avoid the sun and the English want to sit right in it. I remember doing that when I lived in England and went on holiday to Spain. How the tables have turned.
Thursday came, the day of my long awaited 12 day trip to France. I was going to to stay with my cousin Zuka and Aunty Valya who live in La Teillée, a hamlet about 40 minutes from Poitiers.
Zuka's house and garden, a part of it actually as it's enormous. |
We would be going to a a cousin's wedding near Geneva, then spending some quality time together in La Teilée and then attending our second Franco Russian cousin reunion in Marueil (not quite sure where hahaha) before returning to Madrid on 22nd August but of course I will be telling you all about my stay in this blog post.
Eladio drove me to the airport to catch the 09.30 Easy Jet flight to Charles De Gaulle. It was arriving at 11.40 and the TGV (high speed train) was leaving for Poitiers at 12.15 so I had very little time to get off the plane, recover my luggage and rush to the station which is in the airport itself. But, thankfully I made it. The train was chock a block and late arriving in Poitiers where it was raining. It was so funny to come to rain in France after the dry heat of Spain. My dear cousin Zuka had come to fetch me but hadn't told me she had fallen the day before on her staircase and broken three toes. She hobbled towards me and I only wished she had told me and I would have taken a taxi. But she's very stubborn and would even insist on driving to Geneva and back for the wedding believe it or not.
We were soon at her rural house in La Teilée and there waiting for us was my Aunt Valya now aged 92 and going very strong. She is pretty amazing, drinks and smokes to her heart's content and is very mobile and extremely independent. She was the wife of my Mother's darling brother (the next down after her, of six siblings of which my Mother was the fourth), Nicholas (Kolya). Zuka, who is really called Sophie, is her only daughter and my only female first cousin and is 10 years older than me. Zuka who was born in France but married an Englishman (Bruce) and was very close to my Mother. So, of course, there has been a lot of reminiscing during my stay here, much of which is rather emotional.
You see, apart from the family Eladio and I formed, I have very little other family. On my Father's side there is just him and on my Mother's side, all 6 siblings are deceased and only 3 of them had children. So I only have 3 first cousins. But I do have second and third cousins on my Mother's side and these are the ones I would be seeing and meeting in France during this stay. They are all of Russian descent and continue many of the traditions and even way of life. I find it rather quaint, having been brought up to be far less Russian than them.
My Mother had 4 cousins in Paris (her family, the Lieven family fled to Bulgaria after the Russian revolution and their family, the Stachoviches fled to Paris - my Grandmother was a Stachovich) born to my Grandmother's brother Alexander (or his wife but I don't know her name) and they were Sasha, Masha, Olga and Nastusha. I would be seeing the daughters of Masha and Olga, also Masha and Marie Heléne and their daughters Marie, Anna, Sophie, Elizabeth and Helen and Catherine. We would all be attending the marriage of Marie to Anas who live in Geneva. I hope you got all that hahaha. It's rather confusing. If you are interested in the origin and descendants of my Mother's family, the Lievens, you can find out more in the "online Gotha" registry, here.
Whilst in La Teilée, my Aunt showed me some very interesting photos I had not seen previously of the family, like this one of my Grandfather, Prince Andrei Lieven, his brother Peter, sister Masha and Mother Alexandra. You might be interested to know that my Grandfather was over 2m tall and my Great-grandmother nearly as tall as him. I wish I had taken after them and not after my maternal grandmother who was small (and fat) like me! I do know that my Mother adored her Grandmother and I only heard good things about her, not so about my own Grandmother I'm afraid.
My Grandfather Andrei (looking at his mother) with his siblings in Russia probably before 1910. What a great photo. |
Our most famous ancestor was Princess Dorothea Lieven, a German noblewoman and wife to the Russian Ambassador in London. She was a very influential political figure in diplomatic circles in the 19th century and is rumoured to have been the mistress of Bismarck. She was famous enough at the time to be painted by Sir. Thomas Lawrence and her portrait hangs in the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg. I have a copy (nothing fancy, it comes from a magazine) which hangs in our own dining room:-)
Princess Dorothea Lieven, our most famous ancestor (b1785 d1857) |
But I am digressing. So back to La Teilée. Shortly after I arrived, my cousin Marie Helen arrived too as she would be going with us to Geneva for the wedding or should I say I would be going with them. It was while talking about going to the wedding my Aunt told us she had decided it would be too tiring a trip for her to take which we respected. It was also then that she let the cat out of the bag and I heard that Zuka's daughter Katty who lives in New Zealand was surprising us all by coming to the wedding, staying here at La Teilée afterwards and joining us all for the cousin reunion which they all dubbed "la cousinade". She was already in Geneva in fact. I was over the moon that darling Katty was coming. I last saw her a year ago for the "cousinade" at Zuka's place and was dying to see her again. Apart from a cousin, for me she is like a sister and we are soul mates. It was all going to be great fun.
We had a lovely dinner together and very soon I went to bed exhausted by the day. I found it slightly cold and hadn't packed enough warm things and was much in need of pairs of socks of which I had none. Thankfully Zuka lent me some warmer clothing.
On Friday I was up at 6.15 as my body clock is so stubborn. We didn't leave until 9.45 and would be driving all across France to the village of Lully in Haute Savoie where we would be staying at a lovely Swiss type chalet called Zelie run by an Airbnb host. It would be interesting to see how he fared as a host compared to me hahaha. Lully is on the border of Switzerland and is over 600km from La Teilée. The drive would be mostly on country roads as there is hardly any motorway. Our journey would be very slow (9 hours) as, apart from the not particularly good roads it was the start of the 15th August bank holiday and it seemed that all of France was going somewhere too.
But first we had to drive to Poitiers to go to a shoe shop (Halle) at a big shopping centre to get some comfortable shoes for poor Zuka's feet for the wedding. While there, both Marie Helene and I bought some great gold sandals which we would both wear and I love even more than the coloured flat shoes above.
The gold sandals my cousin and I bought in Poitiers |
Mare Helene (left) and Zuka outside the shoe shop in Poitiers. |
Our beautiful chalet in Lully in Haute Savoie near the border of Switzerland |
On Saturday again I was awake at 6.15. Soon I was joined by Zuka who wakes up early too. First things first and I got my caffeine fix followed by a very French breakfast of croissants and "pain au chocolate". I would have the croissants nearly every day here and am seriously worried about my weight which I shall fix, I promise, when I get home.
We had the whole morning to get ready for the wedding which wasn't starting until 14h. It was lovely getting ready together with my cousins as there was such camaraderie and a sort of "girly together" feel. I had brought my Queen Letizia black Zara outfit which in the end I didn't really like to tell you the truth and only wished I had brought my turquoise dress I got at Stanley Market in Hong Kong. I could have killed myself when later at the wedding nearly all the women were in blue which is apparently Marie's favourite colour. That was a bit of a mistake. This is what I looked like. Nothing special really.
My outfit for the wedding. |
Marie being given the final touches to her sari before the Muslim blessing. |
Marie and Anas at the Muslim wedding ceremony. |
The next part of the wedding would be the Russian Orthodox blessing, reception and dinner which took place at the Château d'Avully, a restored 15th century castle belonging to the Duchy of Savoy, over the border in France in Brenthonne and very near our chalet in Lully. It would start at 5.30 so we had time to go back to our chalet, freshen up and get a bite to eat as we hadn't had any lunch and my breakfast croissant and pain au chocolat were long forgotten.
We were stunned by the beautiful castle as we parked and walked in over the portcullis.
The beautiful château |
The bride arriving |
The wedding was truly multicultural, because of the mixture of Muslim and Orthodox traditions but also there were people from all over the world, including some of Anas' family who had come from Canada. They were all dressed in traditional outfits and I was happy to catch them on camera looking very colourful indeed and happy too.
Some of the Muslim guests in traditional outfits. Anas' father is on the far left. |
The giving of the bread and salt |
The Tcharishka before and during accompanied by raucous singing. |
The cousins with the bride and groom. |
The Hindi entry ceremony |
After the dinner and the cutting of the incredible cake, dancing commenced and here Katty and I joined in very enthusiastically. However, by about 1.30 in the morning after a very long day, we were shattered again and with a heavy heart left the wedding party to take the short drive back to our chalet in Lully. I have to say it was the most multicultural and exotic wedding I have ever been to and that it was organised with lots of detail and love, not to mention lots of fun and emotional moments throughout. Marie, of course, organised it all and got her lovely sisters and friends to help make everything perfect.
The wedding didn't finish on Saturday. There was to be a brunch for everyone at Anas' brother's house very near Lake Geneva. Again we had lots of time to get ready and here are my two cousins, Zuka and Katty, Mother and daughter reunited after a year, here ready to go.
Zuka and Katty, Mother and daughter together for the wedding |
Me by Lake Geneva the day after the wedding. |
Anas' brother's house where the brunch took place the day after the wedding. |
Flowers in Yvoire |
In the end we had dinner at Les Terrasses again. There were 14 of us and I was happy to sit next to my dear cousin Masha who is known as Mashenka. I am known as Baby Masha and that is to distinguish us. In fact at home I was always called Baby Masha to distinguish myself from my Mother's younger sister also called Masha. There were and are many Mashas in my family hahah. And here we are sitting round the table that night.
Cousins and friends at the dinner on Sunday night, the night after the wedding. |
That night Eladio and Pippa arrived in Montrondo and our English Airbnb guests left. They later wrote a beautiful review and promised to come again.
On Monday 14th August, I was up early again and amazed I had no headache after all the wine at the dinner the night before. After a leisurely breakfast, we packed and left our lovely chalet to take the road again to Poitiers. It would be a long drive again but thankfully there was very little traffic. We set off at 10 am, stopping for lunch on the way. Again it was difficult to find anywhere and I was surprised to learn that in France restaurants close at 2 pm at lunchtime. So we were lucky to get a meal at the Hotel Du Commerce in a small and sleepy town called Tronget somewhere in the Massif Central where we devoured their cold salads it being too late to get a hot meal as the kitchen was closed. Here are my 3 travel partners and cousins enjoying their meal.
Lunch on the way back from the wedding |
Tuesday 15th August came and I spent the day together with my cousins. Zuka took us to Lezay, a village nearby, where there was an open market. Here we bought all sorts of lovely local produce and even Spanish cold cuts. We also bought baklava, a great favourite with the family as my Mother used to make it having eaten it in her adopted country Bulgaria. In the photo you can see Katty and the baklava seller.
Katty at the stall in the market where we bought baklava |
I have been following the news everyday here and on Tuesday evening was happy to hear that Rafa Nadal, the Spanish tennis player had returned to the number one spot in the tennis rankings, overtaking Andrew Murray. Well done Rafa!
Wednesday came and finally I got a proper walk. Katty and I set out for a 1.5h walk that morning before breakfast. I loved the paths and the flowers and trees and we even picked a very French sunflower as you can see in the photo. Katty got it for her grandmother.
Katty with the sunflower |
That night I was happy to hear Real Madrid had beaten Barcelona in the Super Cup (5-1 agg). They are now the winners of the Champions League, La Liga, the Uefa Super Cup as well as the Spanish Super Cup!
On Thursday morning, Katty I went for our early morning walk again and enjoyed it tremendously. The day was spent cleaning and Katty was a whirlwind clearing out and cleaning the old barn belonging to her grandmother. They chucked so much stuff out it was amazing. I did the cooking that day and made fish and chips which everyone loved. As we were eating, Oli was having lunch with my Father in Madrid and sent us a selfie. I immediately responded sending a photo of my cousins and Aunt at lunch for my Father who knows them all.
Zuka, Katty and my Aunt sending their love to my Father |
On Friday I woke up to read that the terrorism had continued when 4 or 5 jihadists had been caught after trying to run down tourists in the peaceful coastal town of Cambrils not far from Barcelona in the very early hours of the day, just past midnight. We would later hear that the terrorists had plotted worse damage having made bombs to explode in the vans but thankfully this was thwarted. Even so at least one person died and more were injured. I couldn't take it, especially as the death toll on the Ramblas climbed to 14 and God knows how many injured, many of them critically.
Later in the day we would hear of more terror, this time in Turku, Finland, of all places, where a man stabbed people at random and killed two. It's not clear yet whether it was another attack of terrorism. I just couldn't imagine terror in peace loving Finland, a country I know very well after working for Nokia for 6 years.
However, life continued here in quiet La Teilée and Katty and I went on our walk early in the morning.
On our walk on Friday morning |
It is so quiet with hardly a soul around and we enjoyed the country paths admiring the fruit on the trees and vegetables in the kitchen gardens. We even saw pumpkins until it began to rain and we got quite soaked. After a 10km walk we came home to make a splendid breakfast which included croissants of course. I just love French croissants ever since I discovered them when doing Inter rail as a teenager. I first ate them at Gare du Nord in Paris and imitated the locals by dunking them into a huge bowl of coffee which is how I still love to eat them today.
We had a mission yesterday Friday, we had to go out and buy the ingredients for the dishes we were to contribute to the Cousinade which starts today. Zuka took us to the Intermarché supermarket in Lusignan and afterwards drove us round the beautiful medieval town. I was to make an elaborate strawberry Victoria sandwich cake and apple crumble. My cousins would make the savoury dishes. So after lunch Katty and I started cooking, as you can see from the photo. Do please notice the wording on our aprons haha.
Cooking for the Cousinade yesterday |
My two cakes came out splendidly in Zuka's super modern oven. You can see one of them here.
One of the layers of my Victoria sponge cake |
However, when I started to decorate it, the top layer cracked, the icing started to melt and the strawberries began to slide off. This is what it looked like; a total disaster.
The cracked and melting cake |
My ever practical cousin Katty came to the rescue whilst I was effing and blinding and being attacked by more and more flies. She successfully parted it in two and lifted them into higher cake trays so that it wouldn't fall even more apart. I can only hope it tastes good. On the bright side the apple crumble looks very successful.
Everybody was busy, the gardener was here, a new washing machine was put in but finally at around 8 we all sat down for our evening drinks together. I had a long conversation with my Aunt about terrorism and where the world is heading too but of course we also reminisced and I ended up feeling very emotional and hugging my Aunt.
The day ended with a lovely dinner together, after which it was more or less time for bed. The next day, Saturday, today, would be a long one as it would be the start of the much awaited cousin reunion.
We woke up early again this morning and at about 7.30 Katty and I set off for another morning walk, determined to get some exercise before leaving for our other cousin, Marie Helene's place in Mareuil about 1.5h away from here.
It was cold and wet but thankfully not raining and even the sun came out but the ground was full of dew and we got our feet and shoes drenched. We passed many fruit bushes, raspberries and blackberries - not all ripe and even saw grapes growing. And here is Katty picking some of the blackberries she would add to our copious breakfast hahaha.
Katty picking blackberries on our walk this morning. |
This morning our walk was only 1.5h long as we had to get on with the day and get ready to go to Mareuil. So my friends, I shall leave off now and publish this post of my time in France up and till the cousin reunion today which you will all hear about next week.
All in all I have had a super time here with my cousins and Aunt, enjoying their company as well as enjoying the French and Russian ways of life. I shall be leaving for Spain next Tuesday after a wonderful time here. The only black cloud of course being the awful terrorist attacks in Spain which shocked me to the core.
That's it for now then, I shall leave you to publish this and then get ready to hit the road again. Thankfully the sun is shining again now.
On that note, it's time to sign off until my next post.
Cheers till then
Masha
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