Sunday, September 11, 2022

The Queen has died, the end of an era. Amanda came to stay, girly trip to Asturias, new PM for the UK, Póo beach, Mirador de Toró, feeding stray kittens, discovering "Dobble", Elliot and Juliet "back to school", the Picos de Europa, Cuerres, Ribadesella, hearing THE news, more exploring and home again.

 Sunday, 11th September, 2022.

The news announcement from The BBC where I read the sad news on my mobile on Thursday. 
The saddest news ever. Not unexpected but still a huge shock. 

By Lake Ercina in the Lagos de Covadonga in the heart of the Picos de Europa (Peaks of Europe). So lucky to get up there with good weather. 

Good morning everyone. What can I say? The Queen has died and I am devastated as so many people are. I just didn't expect it as I'm sure you didn't either. Just like JFK or the 11th of September (it is actually 11th September today) we will all remember where we were and what we were doing when we heard of her death. Thus 8th September will become a date I shall never forget. She has been on the throne for 70 years and a constant, comforting presence in our lives. If her family made trouble, she never did, never putting a foot wrong, giving all of herself to duty and earned the  respect of even the dire hard republicans. It's not that I am a huge fan of the monarchy, I am a huge fan of Elizabeth II and to see her go is to live through the end of an era. It's as if with her passing something has been taken away from us and from our childhood. She was an amazing Queen but she was also a mother and grandmother and became in a way the Grandmother of the nation, just as her mother, the Queen Mother, Queen Victoria did, but I do think she is probably the most loved monarch in the history of the country.  She was too a family woman and it's nice to see her family rally round. But of course her death produces huge change in England. Charles becomes King Charles III, William becomes the Prince of Wales and most striking Charles' wife Camila  becomes Queen Consort meaning she also will be crowned when the Coronation takes place.  Everything I have to write about my week, now pales in comparison. Below you can read about my week which was all about   friendship, which I am sure Her late Majesty would approve of. 

This week has been very different to last week. Last week was all about family time with the stress of having our delightful but tiring grandchildren here the whole time and the visit of Pernille, our dearest Danish au-pair. This week has been all about my time with my dearest and oldest friend, Amanda, in dire need of a break herself, who arrived last Sunday and was coming  for a luxurious 10 days  of free time with me. We have been friends since the age of 11 when we met at St. Joseph's Catholic Grammar School in Bradford, West Yorkshire, many moons ago. I love that our friendship never dwindles. Throughout the pandemic we spoke weekly on Skype and still do but it's so much nicer to be together in person.

While she was preparing to leave, we were already saying goodbye to dear Pernille after a wonderful, short but sweet visit. There were tears in her eyes when she got into the taxi. I begged her not to leave it another 5 years until we see each other again. I hope we can keep that promise.

Eladio and I managed a morning walk for the first time in days. It was somewhat interrupted by an amateur cycling race but we didn't care as we needed the exercise. Oli and the kids were at home when we arrived, Suzy was packing to go and stay with friends and I packed too for my stay in Asturias with Amanda. Lunch was leftovers and there were plenty. There was plenty of cake left too which was a good thing as dear baby Juliet's 1st birthday was actually last Sunday 4th September. Here is a photo of the cake moment which Elliot had missed the day before. They both loved the candle but neither of them ate any cake, hahahahaha.

Celebrating Juliet's 1st birthday again last Sunday
I had a new guest arriving that afternoon - a young girl from Berlin (Tanja) and had hoped the girls and the kids would keep quiet and be tidy. My hopes were dashed as I rose from my siesta. Thankfully Suzy put all the toys away and got Elliot who was running round the house naked out of the way too. I was a bit ashamed to show Tanja the house with all the family round the pool. But I couldn't do anything. So up I went to our bedroom again to escape to my kindle. Thankfully when I came down everyone had gone and it was just us and the guests and Lucy of course.

I had some quiet time reading by the pool and messaging with Amanda who was already at London Heathrow. Her BA plane would by delayed by 1.5h which meant my plans for dinner together got skewed. In the end it was just Eladio and I for dinner but I kept some for my friend in case she was hungry which no doubt she would be. I left the house just before 9 pm and it wasn't until 11.30 pm that we were home!!! What a stress. I hate driving in the dark and hate driving to Terminal 4, that monster of a terminal at Madrid Barajas airport. I could hardly see the signs and think I took the wrong toll road there but I made it. The problem when you arrive at T4 is that the car park is miles away so everyone waits outside in their cars. You are only allowed to be there for a quick drop off and as I arrived there was a policeman shooing the cars away. Luckily he didn't see me but it had me worried until Amanda finally got out. Flying today is not what it was.

The drive back was easier and it was great to chat together in the car on the way home. The only problem then was my friend's big suitcase which I had to take up two flights of stairs as she had done her back in. Mine is not great but I managed.

I was up at 6.15 - far too early - on Monday morning. I couldn't get away early enough as I was so looking forward to our girly trip to Asturias. I think we left at around 10.45 and both of us felt as free as the wind with me at the wheel in my lovely now not so British Mini. We stopped for breakfast, then for a glass of wine in Rueda at the lovely Palacio de Bornos. We didn't have the plate of ham though as we had booked a table for lunch at La Cueva in Alar del Rey further away. We sat outside tasting the  Rueda wine made from the local "verdejo" grape and my friend agreed it is one of the best white wines in the world.  They didn't charge us for the glass when I bought 4 bottles of it to take with us - not all to be drunk in Asturias I assure you.
My friend enjoying a glass of wine in Rueda

Happy as a sandboy - or shouldn't that be sandgirl hahaha

It was a beautiful day, sunny but with a breeze and the further north we went the greener and hillier it got. I have a feeling this area is a bit like Scotland but with better weather and higher mountains- about 27ºc that day. We arrived in our tiny village, parked as best as I could and then unloaded the car. My friend had done her back in so I had to carry all the loads the most difficult part being lugging up the century old stair case, our 2 massive suit cases. We had 4 rooms to choose from and in the end I went for "our room" the room with 2 big single beds. It felt strange to unpack without Eladio around. 

Once we had settled in we sat outside on our terrace with another glass of Rueda until it got dark. It gets dark there now  at 8.45 which makes for a long sunny day. Dinner was a delicious creamy red lentil soup I had brought from home. Entertainment was beginning a film called Mr. Jones set in the early stages of the Cold War. Without subtitles and with a complicated plot I think I just lost it and fell asleep. We went to bed early and I actually only woke up once.

Tuesday dawned and I was up at 7 am - brilliant.  We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and took as long as wanted to get ready. As we were leaving some stray kittens we had seen upon our arrival, were at our door. We fell in love with them, of course.  Later we would make friends and feed them. 

Amanda and the cats

As we were leaving we both admired the view of the nearby mountains from our street and house. We also admired the peach tree with so much fruit on it. It always surprises me that so far north in Spain you get exotic fruit trees and vegetation: kiwi, lemon, orange, peach and palm trees. People say this coast is similar to Brittany but I doubt that French coast can boast such exotic vegetation. It was a pity the peaches weren't ripe hahaha. 

Amanda posing by the peach tree outside our house with the mountains as the back drop

The day was ours for the taking and there is so much choice there I didn't really know where to start to show my friend all my favourite places . But it had to include the beach with  the funny name: "Póo" which my friend thought was hilarious. We drove to Niembru a pretty little village by the sea - well it's really a "ria" (small fjord) where I took Amanda to a spot on the road with good views of the pretty church called Our Lady of Sorrows with its marvelous cemetery. She agreed the location was beautiful.We also visited it on Friday. 
Our Lady of Sorrows in Niembru
Our next destination was the pretty beach of Barro. It really was a beach day and could have kicked myself for not taking my swimming costume when we arrived at my favourite beach, the one with the funny name of "Póo". It was a glorious sunny day and everything looked picture perfect. This was the view I was greeted with upon arrival, a view or scene I never tire of. 
Playa de Póo which is really a fjord. 
Before our walk on the beach and the cliffs we, or I, had a lovely coffee taking in the amazing scenery. Sadly coffee doesn't agree with my friend. We then walked down the wooden stairs to the beach and wondered all along it until it took us to the small village of Póo. We were lucky the tide was out so we got a heavenly walk. Here is Amanda enjoying the moment. I was so happy to share with her all the places I love around the area.
Amanda on the Póo beach
When we had walked as far as we could and back, I took my friend up the hill to the clifftops with wonderful views of the ocean, the Póo beach with its mountain backdrop. Don't forget we have some of the highest mountains in this area in the national park of Los Picos de Europa. Once at the top of the cliff I took  photos of my friend for her to remember the day and where she had been like this one below. 


Amanda on the cliffs above the beach of Póo
Our next stop was beautiful Llanes - that posh and pretty little seaside town about 14km from El Cuetu and easy to get to.  Every time we are in El Cuetu we go several times and this was to be no different. I really love Llanes and so did Amanda. We parked by the Sablón beach and walked into the old town with its wonderful old buildings, many used in Spanish period dramas. I also had to show my friend my favourite gourmet shop, Aramburu, There we bought food for meals in the evening and left our shopping to pick up later as we didn't want to carry it to the restaurant which was a far walk from the centre of town. For the record we bought Iberian ham (of course), some thick asparagus to have with mayonnaise, "pastel de cabracho" - a sort of fish pate- and some meat pie which looked delicious. 

It was quite a walk to get to the restaurant where I had booked a table - El Mirador de Toró ,the one I had discovered in May when I came here with my other girl friends, Adele and Sandra. This restaurant is the best I have found so far, its salient point being its location over the Toró beach. The food is marvelous too and the restaurant full, mainly of well to do Spaniards, many of them local. We both commented that the energy crisis, inflation and all the horrible crises going on only really affect people who are badly off. That is so true and so unfair. I felt privileged to be able to afford eating out every day in Asturias. My friend pointed out - to make me feel better - that I had earned it by working hard all my life; even now with my little holiday rental business. I suppose she is right. 

For the record we both had seafood - I just adore it although I am not really keen on fish. As we left El Mirador de Toró, I had to have a photo of my friend by the Playa de Toró with its wonderful rock formations. 
Amanda . Playa de Toró Llanes
We had booked the table for 2pm and I don't think we left until nearly 5 pm, as we were so enjoying the place. We then walked back slowly into town, remembering to pick up the food from Aramburu and drove home. We did actually stop in Posada to get some salad ingredients for our dinners, except that that night, even though we had only had one course, neither of us was hungry.

Who were hungry were the kittens that seemed to have adopted us since our arrival. We fed them some milk and bread and left out a bowl of water. I only wish I could take one of them back with me, the little white one. I love it. 
The stray kittens who never left our side during our stay in El Cuetu
We had  a lazy afternoon and evening sitting on our little terrace. We played ludo which as you probably know, I love. Then we played or tried to play a game which is new to me - a sort of snap with pictures called Dobble. Amanda had recommended it and I bought it online and it arrived that morning. I think it's fun. 
Dobble - a discovery

We were both tired while trying to play Dobble which should be played very fast and went to bed again before midnight.

Who probably went to bed even later was Liz Truss, Britain's new Prime Minister the news of which was announced that day while we were galavanting round Asturias. Am I pleased? I should be as we now have another woman Prime Minister and I think anything is better than Boris Johnson. However, there are many question marks as to how good she will be. Some say she is more ambitious than capable. Time will tell. For the moment I am unhappy with her cabinet post appointments. There are only 3 women damn her. She has put plenty of non white people in her inner circle which is neither here nor there for me but only 3 women!!! One of them is a lady called Thèrése  Coffey (notice the accents - love the surname)  the new Health Minister  who apparently loves a drink or two and is the heart and soul of the party  at Downing Street.  She is Truss' closest colleague. Not too bad right, except that her appearance is not exactly that of a role model for the job she has to do. I am not fat shaming her - how could I as I am fat myself? Coffey could have chosen any of the jobs going, including  three of the four great offices of state (PM, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Foreign Secretary or Home Secretary) but she went for Health. I suppose she thinks she can turn the page for the ailing NHS. I doubt it somehow. The only good news here is that we finally have a new PM, the Boris Johnson era is over, and, perhaps, just perhaps we can go forward. It will not be easy. 

A new PM for the UK - Liz Truss.
I wasn't thinking of her or BJ or Coffey when I woke up on Wednesday morning. I was thinking of my dear grandchildren, Elliot (nearly 3) and Juliet who has just turned 1. Wednesday 7th was the day they were going back to school. Actually Elliot is starting junior school and Juliet is going to his old nursery next door. As Oli was working I asked Miguel who was off this week for pictures of my grandchildren on this most important day for them. Elliot did know what was going on and smiled happily for the camera. Juliet probably had no idea. These were the lovely photos my son-in-law shared with me which I am sharing with you in turn because I love them so much and they have to be a part of my blog. Who knows, maybe, maybe, one day they will read these words when I am long dead. I hope they do bless them. My father wished them a productive life and I do too. 



It was back to school for Elliot and Juliet on Wednesday 7th September. 
While they were excitedly being taken to their new schools, I was planning our day in Asturias. We had been to the sea on Tuesday so I thought it would be the perfect day to show my oldest friend the greatest attraction of this area: the Picos de Europa National Park. Our  humble house may not be in the prettiest village but it is in a super location, just 14km from Cabrales (one of the starting points to visit the Picos) and the beaches of Llanes. I find that most of the guests who book our house come  to visit the Picos and trek there of course. The most famous walking route is the Cares Route also called The Divine Gorge. Here is a bit more information on it if you ever come this way: 

"The Cares river route runs into the Picos de Europa National Park, in Spain, and is one of the most breathtaking trekking trails that can be done in Europe. The Cares route is called "The Divine Gorge". The path is carved in the rocks of the mountains and it is a wonderful journey over 12 km".

That is one of the things most of my guests do and one day, when my knee is better, I want to do it too. But we did make our way to the starting point which is in the tiny hamlet called Poncebos near Cabrales. From Poncebos you can take a funicular to what was once the most inaccessible  villages in Spain, Bulnes. Bulnes, one of the prettiest villages in Spain according to the Times, was completely isolated until the funicular was built in 2001. Villagers, all farmers I imagine, had to walk one hour to Poncebos and then a few miles to Cabrales (Spain's cheese capital) for their purchases. Today they have cars parked at the funicular station and are able to move much faster. So, I wanted to show my friend Bulnes which I had only seen once. 

The highest mountain in the Peaks of Europe is the Naranjo de Bulnes called   Picu Urriellu locally - something to do with the colour of the rock which is limestone.  It measures 2.519 metres and Snowdonia pales in comparison. Fyi the highest mountain in the Spanish peninsula is Mulhacén in the Sierra Nevada mountain range - near Granada - which measures 3.479 metres. So the Naranjo de Bulnes is not as high but it is still magnificent. 

We saw it from a viewing point from the road and it is clearly distinguishable because of the shape of its peak. See if you can spot it in my picture taken from the viewing point.

The Picos de Europa 
So back to the village of Bulnes. I had hoped we would get a better view of the mountain but a taxi driver later told me it is a 5 or 6 hour trek from the village and could not be seen. I won't be doing that trek in a hurry.

The funicular is really an amazing feat of engineering going right under the mountain rock and measuring about 6 km. It took about 7 minutes and it drops you off some 300m away from Bulnes. The paths and surrounding nature are just heaven and I felt as happy as if I were in heaven as I imagined it as a child. 
In Bulnes
We ambled into the heart of this medieval village which I tried to imagine how primitive it must have been earlier in the last century. We both loved it immediately with its cobbled streets and stone houses. It is so unspoiled thankfully. A fellow tourist took this photo of us having a happy day together. 
In Bulnes with my dearest friend Amanda
We couldn't spend too much time there as we had booked a table for lunch at a restaurant, Casa Pedro Parres,  near Cangas de Onis, San Pedro Parres where I have been countless times and could not recommend more highly. I had booked the table for 2.30, then rang to say 3.30 and in the end we arrived 10 minutes before the kitchen closed. But it was worth it. Not wanting the local dishes, fabada and cachopo - all too heavy, I went for a gourmet hamburger. I actually wanted a good piece of steak but would have had to order one weighing 1kg at 85 euros. That's why I went for the good old hamburger. But just look how it was served. 

Lunch at Casa Pedro Parres on Wednesday
I had it with cider, very typical in this area, as you can see.
Enjoying the cider at Casa Pedro Parres

We could have gone home but as we were in the area I wanted to show my friend Covadonga. It is the site of the famous battle of King Pelayo of Asturias against the Moors in the 8th Century. Legend has it that during the battle he won which was the beginning of the reconquest of Spain, he saw the Virgin Mary in a cave he hid in. The cave where The Virgin of Covadonga is venerated by millions of Spaniards is a tiny little one in the rocks of the mountains where she is known as "la santina" - lots of words in the Asturian dialect end in ina or in and o's become "us" ( pronounced ooze). It's funny to hear. But the place was packed. So we had to park down the hill and walk up. It was then that we were approached by somebody in uniform asking us if we wanted to go up to the famous lakes of Covadonga. From about March to October the steep road leading to these glacial lakes is closed to private transport and a good business is run by a local taxi firm. We said yes immediately as the Lakes of Covadonga, Enol and Ercina, are in the heart of the Picos de Europa range and are a  sight for sore eyes as is the ride up. We went in a taxi with 6 other people, sitting at the back where we hardly saw anything. On the way down we sat at the front and enjoyed the views of this stunning road, often used in the Tour of Spain as one of the main mountain stages. It is here that my cyclist friend, winner of the Tour of France, Pedro Delgado became famous. His name is still written on the road, "Perico" which warmed my heart. 

It's about 7km to reach the top and when we did we were rewarded with great views as there was good visibility.  A young Brazilian girl who was our fellow passenger in the "taxi", offered to take photos of us like the one below and the one I have chosen as my feature photo this week. It was heavenly to be up there. The photo below is of us by Lake Ercina. 
Lake Ercina
We had about an hour to enjoy the scenery and spent most of it at the view top which was one hell of a climb. When we came back down we were rewarded, this time by a herd of goats going past Lake Ercina. What a beautiful sight. The Lakes are haven of nature and peace. 
A herd of goats by Lake Ercina
Upon our descent where we saw vultures whose wings span up to 2 metres, cows and wild boar but not the famed wild horses. Once we got out of the taxi  we went to get our car to drive up to the site of Covadonga. My friend wanted to see the Basilica built 125 years ago in honour of the Virgin. It's quite magnificent. 
The Basilica at Covadonga
But just as we reached the top there was a procession - the "Novena" in honour of the 125th anniversary of the Basilica and the police wouldn't let us past. We were keen to see it too and took some photos. The anniversary also coincided with the Day of Asturias - also in honour of Covadonga - which was the next day, 8th September and is a local holiday. 
The procession in Covadonga
So in just one day I showed my friend a lot of the Picos and we had really packed into one day what should be seen slowly in two. When we started our drive down the mountain to El Cuetu the heavens opened and the downpour of rain was a huge shock. It got dark and was very difficult to drive but we made it. Not everyone did as on our way to Posada to get provisions, we saw an overturned car on the road. Thankfully no one was killed but that showed me how dangerous it is to drive in such torrential rain and on flooded roads. 

We spent the evening playing ludo my friends, probably one of my favourite games. I had to refresh my dear friend's memory and was delighted when she found she likes it as much as me. It kept us entertained from then on and also very relaxed

We  had no idea what was coming on Thursday 8th September, a date now forever etched in my brain. I planned the day again. We would visit Ribadasella, a very pretty coastal town about 25km from our house and go on the main road rather than the motorway. On our way we stopped when I saw a sign for "Cuerres", near a pretty little fjord like beach, Guadamia, but more interesting for me where the cliffs called Castro Arenas are located. The beach is well worth seeing. After getting slightly lost we found the beach and again I wished I had brought my swinming gear as it was a beautiful day for the beach. 

Guadamia beach, so hidden away it is not well known. 

Just further along the same path we came to the cliffs which I love so  much as they were featured countless times in a Spanish period drama I adore called "La Señora! I went with Eladio some years ago before we knew this area. So that day I was delighted not just to see them again but to understand the location, near the pretty Guadamia beach but also across the fields are the famous "Bufones de Pria" - an area where jets of water rush out of holes made in the rocks, a bit like geysers. I think they are called Blow Holes in English.  They are only to be seen though when the sea is rough and it wasn't that day. 
The beautiful cliffs at Cuerres
It was a short drive from Cuerres to Ribadasella which I later learned is the rival town of Llanes. Both vie to be the one of the most upmarket seaside towns in Asturias. I love them both. Ribadasella takes its name from the River Sella and the town is divided by it. It is famous for the Descent of the Sella river - on canoes which is a huge annual event bringing thousands of participants and spectators every year. 
A view of Ribadasella from the other side of the bridge
It was 1.30 by the time we were sitting in a cafe in the old part of the town. We had planned to have lunch at home which was a bad plan as we ended up eating at 6.30 that evening. From the old town we walked to the town beach, the beautiful Santa Marina which is absolutely spectacular. The promenade is various kilometres long and we walked to the end. Here is just a shot but one day you have to see it for yourselves and also admire the splendid colonial type houses on the waterfront. They are magnificent. 
Playa Santa Marina in Ribadasella

It was while we were sitting and relaxing at the far end of the promenade that we heard "The news". I was so glad that I got it in the company of my oldest friend, for whom the Queen has also been a constant presence in her life. It would have been awful to be alone and not share my devastation with someone who understands as Amanda does of course. It was my dear friend Sandra who was actually at the Balmoral hotel in Edinburgh that very moment. She wrote to say the Queen was being medically supervised and that the Royal family were on their way. The news came out of the blue. We all knew she had mobility problems but just 2 days before - on Tuesday - in her last public engagement ever, she had received the new PM, Liz Truss. That photograph would be the last of her reign. 

The Queen's last photo

We could never have imagined it would. That she was under medical supervision did not surprise us. What did was that all her children and Prince William and Harry were on their way to Balmoral to be with her. That could only mean one thing, she was dying. I burst into tears. I just couldn't take it in. Only if you are British and born after she was born in 1926 she (became Queen aged 25 in 1952), can you understand what I felt. I was comforted to be with my oldest friend. Both of us are baby boomers and have only ever known one monarch on the throne, Elizabeth II. She has been a constant presence in our life, leading a country with so much devotion to duty. She sacrificed her life for her country literally and as Paddington Bear said, something we all echo:  "thank you Ma'am for everything".  

We couldn't take it in as we walked back along the promenade our spirits dampened by such sad news. I still hoped she would hang on in there, after all her own mother lived to about 103. I thought she would too. But I was wrong.

Our stomachs were rumbling when we eventually reached the old town. So we rushed home on that lovely country road and were home by about 5.30 or 6. We had a lovely dinner on our terrace, all cold cuts and salads. We felt happy but also alert to what was going on in England and in Balmoral. The sad news came at 6.30 that evening. Again I cried. In fact I cried my eyes out. I just cannot imagine life without here. Of course her death meant the immediate accession to the throne of Prince Charles who is now King Charles III. That will take some getting used to. I just cant get around the words "God bless the King". It sounds strange. He deserves all our support and respect but he will never ever fit into her shoes. She was one of a kind, like Queen Victoria. It's a very sad end of an era.

As if in respect, just as we heard the news it began to rain and we went in. We sat and watched the live blanket coverage, the best we could from Spain as we couldn't get the BBC even though I have a VPN - it kept freezing. I think this blanket news was comforting. It was only about 2 hours later that we resumed our game of ludo and I found it a bit trivial but it was good to take our minds off this sad, sad, desperate news.

Friday came, our last full day in Asturias and it was yet another glorious sunny day. I took my dear friend into Llanes which was full as it was a Bank Holiday. While the new King was being proclaimed and all the fanfare was set into motion, we had a quiet but beautiful day together. We were on our own, away from our dear husbands and free to do what we wanted. It was wonderful to be together as we are so close and anything goes and oh how we laugh so much. Amanda is good for me. I can be my true self with her and vice versa I am sure. We walked into the town and came across a little boutique of which there are many in up market Llanes. I spied a yellow rain jacket with a blue and white striped lining that I thought was perfect for my friend. As it was to be her birthday on her last night here, I bought it as a present. She looks lovely in it. She usually wears darker colours but yellow suits her. 

Amanda's yellow rain coat bought in Llanes
She didn't need it for the walk though as it was so warm. My friend loved St. Peter's walkway as I do and I never tire of it or its views across the ocean. I love the picture below of my glamorous friend enjoying her holiday. 
Amanda on the St. Peter's walk way on Friday. 
We did about an hour's walk or a bit more and then ambled down into the town again, destination Restaurante Campanu which had been recommended to us. It is good. Again I had bay scallops hahaha. Dessert for me was a lovely ice cream in the street from a local van. We sat down for me to enjoy it - pistachio and coconut flavours . my favourites of course - and my dear friend took this rather good selfie. Of course the sunglasses hide all our wrinkles hahahaah. 
A selfie of two happy women in Llanes on Friday
Our day did not end there as I was keen to show Amanda more places I love before we left. One of them is the Andrin beach not far from Llanes, but especially the views from the "chirringuito" (beach bar) at the top. It is a marvelous place. And here is my friend sitting in front of the little beach. I think it is a great picture. Just take in the colours please and think, is this really Spain? Yes it is. Spain is not just Benidorm or Seville or Malaga. The whole of the north coast is the jewel in the crown for me when it comes to beaches and mountains. 
Amanda at the bar above the Andrin beach
We then walked down to see it and I got a view of the bar from the beach. It really is in a magnificent location. 
View of the "chirringuito" from the bottom - the beach of Andrin.
Again I could have kicked myself for not having brought my swimsuit. Every day was a beach day, yet we never went in the water. After seeing Andrín, I wanted to take my friend to see the spectacular Torimbia beach which is one of the best. I took the country road and on our way we again went past the fjord where the Church of our Lady of our Sorrows is perched next to, its cemetery seeming as if it is in the water. See what I mean: 


My friend with the wonderful backdrop of the church on the water
We went into the church or rather grave yard which has been used for countless films and series in Spain. There were 2 people there and we got chatting. The man was cleaning his father's grave and his cousin, a woman, was there with him, her husband to be buried the next day. We were very sorry for her as they were for our Queen. It turned out the man, a Spaniard,  had been born in Australia where he lived for 11 year and felt for the Queen just what we do. That was one interesting encounter. From the graveyard we walked to a promontory above the beach and as we walked we spied a man changing after having swum, I suppose. He was fully naked from the back which is most unusual in Spain - but I bet he wasn't Spanish. I naughtily took a photo which we all laughed at as we shared it with our families. So, now I am sharing it with you. 
The naked man
From there I drove to the Torimbia beach nearby up very, very steep streets where I needed all my driving skills. But it was worth the effort. My friend was bowled over at the beauty of the beach and surroundings as I always am. It is actually a nudist beach but is a hell of a walk down. No doubt if we had walked down I would have got more photos of naked people. Probably we should have gone down, at least for me to have a bathe as I didn't need a swim suit. One day I promise I will skinny dip there. 
Torimbia beach - a marvel and the last beach I was to show to Amanda
We drove home to catch up on the news in the UK. It was a bit strange to be on holiday when the dear Queen died. If I had been at home I would have been watching all the news but in Asturias all we could do was catch up with it bit by bit. We watched the new King address the nation and thought he looked kingly. I wonder whether we will be calling him King Charles III or simply The King as we referred to the Queen as THE Queen? 

The mother cat and her kittens were waiting for us for their food which they got. We left the rest of the cat food to my neighbour's grandson, Pablo, to feed them. What will happen to them after that we wondered. They were so lovely but no way could I bring one home I'm afraid although I did fall in love with the little white one with her sweet and appealing eyes. 


Amanda feeding the cats who will miss us
Once they were fed, we got out the Rueda wine, some crisps and pistachios and played Ludo on the terrace until it got cold. We both remarked that with our husbands things would have been different as we would have had to make their meals on time, whereas there we could eat when and what we wanted.

I think we both slept very well on our last night and at about 11.15 yesterday morning or so set off for the long drive home.  I had to stop just as we left as I received a new booking for that very day at home, in El Bosque. That meant I had to get in touch with the guest and inform Eladio and Lucy. That also meant we would come home to three sets of guests. It turned out they were nearly all from South America: Colombia, Ecuador and Peru. Lucy who is from Paraguay must have felt in her element. The lady who had booked to arrive that day was coming to bring her daughter to study at the girls' old school, St. Michael's. We were delighted to have them. 

Before we left, Amanda had to have  a photo of me in the car setting off and here I am on our little road in El Cuetu. 


Setting off from El Cuetu
Our drive was to be quiet with the roads nearly all for us. It is really quite an easy drive as it is all motorway. So while the new King was being proclaimed with all the fanfare, we were on the road in Spain. I had booked a table for lunch in the pretty town of Fromista in the province of Palencia (like Valencia but with a "pa"). It is on one of the up to 60 different routes of the Camino to Santiago. It also has a beautiful Romanesque church, St. Martins, but we only saw it from the outside as there was no time for more tourism. The restaurant, Hosteria de los Palmeros, is really lovely and we more or less were given a table in a dining room to ourselves. This is it. It was sheer luxury and the food was divine. 
At the restaurant in Fromista yesterday
As I was driving I couldn't drink wine and didn't want to finish the courses of food so brought half of it back which Eladio would enjoy for dinner. 

As we drove south the temperature gradually increased and we came home to 32ºc, 10 degrees more than in Asturias. As the Asturians say there is a price to pay for all the green; i.e. rain but thankfully it only rained once during our stay.

I came home to be reunited with my adored husband into whose arms I melted. It's marvelous but I am still as in love with him since the day I married him, if not more. He is my rock and he is always there. I go away and come back and there he is. He of course carried in the luggage and all our bags bless him. Lucy helped too.  Suzy was home and it was great to be reunited with her too.

Later we had a long dinner on the kitchen terrace while our guests had theirs on the pool terrace. I greeted them all and each and every one of them was having a great time at our house. Life seemed so good, if only we didn't have the terrible news of the Queen's death and all that  that means. We did talk about the Queen at dinner, but covered other topics too as we sat outside not even needing a cardigan. Amanda snapped a picture of the 3 of us looking at something on my phone - probably a picture of our time in Asturias. 

Last night with Eladio and Suzy
I was also reunited with little Pippa who I had missed. She slept with us of course. We went to bed watching a documentary on the Queen - the coverage in Spain has nearly equaled the UK - well not quite, but my goodness it has been round the clock. Madrid's autonomous President, Isabel Diaz Ayuso has ordered 3 days of mourning in the Spanish capital for the Queen for which she has been much criticised. Some say the reason for the extensive coverage  is because of the Royal family's ties with the Spanish monarchy - King Philip being the great great great grandson of Queen Victoria, like the Queen - sorry not sure how many "greats" to put in. 

Today is ours for the taking. Over the pond at Flushing Meadows, the 19 year old Spaniard, Carlos Alcaraz will be playing in the final of the US Open against the Dane Ruud. He is now number 3 in the world rankings but if he wins today he will become number 1 which is extraordinary. I am routing for him as is the whole of Spain. 

Today too the body of the Queen will be taken from Balmoral to lie in state in Edinburgh, I believe, before being flown to London to lie in state until her funeral on Monday 19th September. That I shall watch from beginning to end and will no doubt cry my eyes out. I still can't take it all in. Can you?

All I can say now is RIP Your Majesty - you meant so much to us all. As Amanda's husband Andy put it, it's like losing a member or your family. It is in a way.

Until next week, keep safe my friends, 

All the best Masha

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