Our week in Montrondo, walks, barbecues, shopping in Villablino and in the village, fun in the water with Elliot, lunch in Senra, Santa Marta fiesta and other stories.

 Montrondo, Sunday 31st July, 2022

Fun in the water with Elliot

Good morning everyone. Hope this post finds you well. I couldn't feel better. Here I am with my family - bar Suzy - in our village in north west Spain where we have escaped the heat of Madrid and enjoyed quality time together.

How fast the week has flown past. Last Sunday was our first full day here with Oli, Miguel, Elliot and Juliet and now this morning they are leaving. We will stay on a bit longer  and shall miss them. The kids have had the time of their lives, just as our children did every summer here. 

Elliot especially loved the trampoline. Here he is jumping up and down straight after breakfast last Sunday and still in his pyjamas - well you couldn't do that if you live in a town. 

Elliot enjoying the trampoline last Sunday morning

(video on my You Tube channel here) 

The day was spent quietly. We didn't even go for a walk. We had everything we needed here. Eladio took out all the garden furniture so we had lunch on the terrace at the back of the house in the shade and dinner on the front terrace. There are so many spaces to eat outside here which is wonderful in the summer. This house is at its best in the summer.

I love our house but especially so in the summer when you can get the most out of it. I went outside at 10.30 shortly after the sun went down and took one look at it with all the lights on and it was so inviting I had to take a photo to share with you.

The front of the house at night with all the lights on - it looks so inviting

We went to bed early, far earlier than the children who go to bed at about midnight! Our entertainment was watching a series called "Alba" on Netflix from the comfort of our soft and large bed on my iPad.

Again I slept well that night and woke up at 6.45 on Monday morning. I love my own time in the morning before everyone else gets up; my coffee, reading the headlines and playing Wordle in Spanish and in English.

I particularly liked the front page of The Times that day with a picture of a "young man" with a sheep at the Boroughbridge Show near Ripon in North Yorkshire. It is the boy and the very original sheep that caught my eye. It caught Olivia's journalistic eye too and we both remarked no Spanish newspaper would include something like that on their front page. That is what I like most about the British press. I also know the area and a good friend, Adele, is from the pretty village of Boroughbridge. I once went to the Yorkshire Show - the biggest in England, a few years ago and have never forgotten it. I do wish The Times though had mentioned the breed of sheep. I have never seen a yellow one. Have you?

The Times front page on Monday 

I had my second coffee outside after breakfast and have to show you the back of the house and the field behind it which we call "la era". It's so peaceful. This is pure rural countryside and I adore it. 

The house from the back 

The field behind our house - La Era

Oli persuaded me to join her, Miguel and the children on a walk to Murias in the hope of a coffee at the bar with unreliable hours. I enjoyed the scenery too, especially the freshly cut grass in the fields with the bales of hay. Have you ever noticed that in different regions, countries or areas, there are different ways of stacking hay? It's that time of year of course and I only wish I could transmit the wonderful smell. It is not a smell that Eladio particularly likes. That's because from about the age of 12 he had to work hard to help his father cut the grass with a scythe and pack the hay for the animals in the winter. It was hard work for a young boy and even if the sun was strong his father was relentless; the job had to be done. 

Hay in the fields - it is this time of year

We were in luck when we got to Murias de Paredes as the bar was about to open at 12.30. Here we had a coffee and Oli had a local drink called "mosto" which is basically wine without alcohol. Oli and Miguel were in luck too as both babies were fast asleep throughout. 

Coffee in Murias on Tuesday

We came home to find Eladio preparing the barbecue. I had sausages and hamburgers (bitki actually) but the sausages had gone bad (boohoo). Even so we enjoyed a lovely barbecue outside. 

Eladio preparing the barvbecue

This, by the way, is our lunch time dining room on the terrace at the back of the house which is the coolest place here. Elliot was enjoying playing with a water pistol I regretted buying him in France the week before hahaha, 

Our lunch dining room table with Elliot and his water pistol!

Meanwhile, Juliet was enjoying crawling on a blanket nearby while the meal was being prepared. I can now proudly announce that  at nearly 11 months  she can crawl. She will be walking soon too I think. 

Family scene here on Tuesday 

Eladio and I had the longest siesta ever after lunch, waking up at nearly 7 pm. I suppose we needed the sleep. I thought I wouldn't be able to sleep that night because of the long siesta but amazingly I did. I think the mountain air does me a lot of good. 

Tuesday came and I had fires to put out as they say in Spanish. The washing machine had broken down in Santa Pola - as had the toaster this week in El Cuetu in Asturias. That meant a lot of phone calls. Anything can go wrong in a house as we all know but fixing things from a distance is a challenge. That meant I left late for Villablino to do the shopping. I went with my sister in law Dolores and Oli and family went in their car. 

I like the drive over the mountains and windy roads which takes about 25 minutes. Villablino, a former mining town which is quite ugly, was bustling with people from surrounding villages doing their shopping. Soon we were joined by Oli and family whom you can see in the photo below at the ice cream section of the supermarket. Elliot is an ice cream freak, possibly even more than me hahahha. 

Oli and family at the supermarket Gadis in Villablino on Tuesday morning

I was finished before them so took Elliot for a drink at a nearby cafe called Clave which is nothing special as none are in Villablino. Here he is devouring his peach juice. Oli and co left earlier than us afraid the ice cream would melt.

Elliot drinking some juice at a café with me on Tuesday in Villablino

Dolores and I stayed behind and enjoyed a quiet coffee together. We had a few more errands to do - including visiting a shoe shop where I had spied white sandals I wanted. I actually wanted the Birkenstock type but had to make do with fake sandals. They are comfortable though. Later I bought the real thing on Amazon which maybe I should have done before. They will be waiting for me when I go home. 

After our errands we drove home and were back late. I had hoped to have lunch out so as not to cook that day but the nearest restaurant in Senra - the one with the grumpy owner- was fully booked. I have a feeling it wasn't but that he didn't want our custom as we were taking 2 children with push chairs. Next time we agreed to book without mentioning taking along push chairs.  Eladio refused to make a barbecue again, arguing it was dangerous in the sun. So I had to rush around, with the help of Oli, putting stuff away and making our lunch - steak with small green peppers. They were so hot we couldn't eat them. Later in the week he relented but took the portable barbecue to a less dangerous place. 

Our siesta was only slightly shorter that day and the evening was similar to all our evenings here - dinner together and then to bed for Eladio and I while the babies are up until past midnight. 

Wednesday dawned and as I had slept so much I was awake at 6.15. We didn't do much that day. Of note I made my flagship chicken curry which I'm sure no Indian would claim as authentic but we love it. Accused of being a bit anti social because of my daily siestas and reading outside, I joined Oli and family in the afternoon when they were exploring the village. Elliot was flying along the old roads on his pedal free bicycle which reminded me of the girls on their bikes when they were small. Oh what wonderful summers they spent here. I caught Elliot on his little bike followed by his cousin Luna who he calls his friend - he doesn't understand what cousins mean. Luna is a few months older, she is taller and talks like a 5 year old. Thus he is learning a lot from her. Most importantly and thanks to her his potty training has accelerated since we got here. 

Elliot on his pedal free bike riding in the village with Luna behind him

Their next stop was the well or fountain on the village green which is called "El campo" here. Both enjoyed the water, splashing in it and drinking from the spring where the water comes directly from the mountain. It's the perfect place to swim too but the water is freezing. I had to splash in it too. Oh what  fun. The photo of  Elliot and me in this week's feature photo captures that lovely moment. 

Luna and Elliot (always together) enjoying the water in the "pilón" in the village green while Oli and Miguel look on. 

It was getting late and cold too as the temperature begins to drop here at around 7 pm - oh how lovely it has been to escape the heat of Madrid yet enjoy the sun - so we walked the short distance home. It was time for tea. That night Oli made the dinner with me as the assistant and we made Spanish tortilla which we had with the most delicious ham and "cecina" from a shop Dolores frequents in Villablino. I think it's the best cecina I have ever eaten. Cecina, is like Spanish ham but made from either beef or horse meat. I hope this was from the former. I'm not partial to eating horse. While we made the dinner Eladio looked after little Juliet who increasingly prefers to be held rather than be in her push chair. Eladio obliged and I had to have a photo of the two of them, grandfather and granddaughter. 

Eladio and Juliet. What a pretty picture. 

On the subject of pretty pictures, I love the photos of the day section in The Times which I subscribe to owing to my English origins. So as I was happy to see a photo in Thursday's edition from the agricultural show in Boroughridge in that section the day before, I was even more delighted to see one of  Bolton Abbey, one of my favourite places in the world. Set in Yorkshire it brings back many happy memories. The photo was to illustrate the supposed second heat wave in the UK this week which in my mind is not a heat wave. As a child and teenager I swam in the river there, the River Wharfe, many times and even in the winter. 

Bolton Abbey in The Times this week - one of my favourite places in the world. 

Thursday was very much a family day or family morning. We joined Oli and family on a walk to Murias. It is only 1.3km but when you have two babies in prams that can take a while. Elliot was delighted to find another spring with cold water in Murias and had to try it. His father, Miguel, did his best not to let him get in the cold water. 

Elliot and his father by the spring in Murias  - built in 1905 it's very pretty. It must have been built for use by the villagers when there was no running water in this area. Today it is more decorative than anything else. 

We had hoped for a coffee at the only bar in Murias - El Holandés Errante  - which opens at the very late hour of 12.30 but learned that Thursday was the owners' day off. Why on earth they take a day off in the height of the summer beats me. Thus we started the slow journey home. Here are some pictures of that lovely part of the day when we had to keep stopping as Elliot wanted to change prams or walk Pippa and Juliet had to be taken out of her pram to be breast fed. 

Eladio pushing Elliot's push chair. He prefers Juliet's and had to be persuaded to go in his

Elliot when he wanted to hold Pippa's lead

The perfect picture of us when we stopped so that Oli could breast feed little Juliet

We were home by about 13.30 and it was time to make lunch. It was to be a barbecue again and Eladio was the chef. Here he is serving the burgers and delicious sausages which we had with chips and salad. Some of the chips were fed to the 4 dogs who wouldn't leave our side; Pippa, Nuba, Trebol and Marley.  Oli and I who love dogs weren't at all bothered. Miguel who is not so keen kept shooing them away. I think Oli wants to get a dog like Pippa - a mini sausage dog - so let's see if that ever happens. 

Barbecue on Thursday, our second of the week. 

As we have done every afternoon here, Eladio and I had a long siesta. I didn't wake up until 6 pm!!!! Then I had a cup of decaf tea with a chocolate biscuit. This meant that at dinner time I wasn't at all hungry. I spent the rest of the afternoon in my favourite place here to relax - on one of the sun loungers under the apple trees at the back of the house. 

It wasn't until after our dinner that the Thursday food van arrived. Gelo is the owner and always comes on Thursdays. As there are no shops here and some people don't have cars a lot of the food comes on wheels as does a bank and other services too; badly needed services in sparsely populated rural Spain. It is often called "empty Spain" and that it is except in the summer when villagers who reside elsewhere all arrive to spend part of the summer in their places of origin. Most people in Spain have a village to go to and we are one of them; lucky us. As soon as we heard the sound of the truck's horn, Oli and I dashed outside to get some fruit for breakfast. We had bought an enormous amount of food in Villablino on Tuesday but by Thursday most of it had gone and we needed some for our breakfast on Friday.  Elliot who has never seen a supermarket on wheels - what else to call it? joined us and was awarded with some sweets. Aged nearly 3 - he turns 3 on 17th September - he has only just discovered them. Oli loves them too so got some for both her and her son. I had to have a photo of the two of them by the food van. This is it. 

Food shopping in Montrondo - a food van comes every Thursday. There are others that bring bread, fish and fruit on other days but Gelo's is the one that has most variety. 

We soon went to bed while Oli and Miguel tried to put the kids to sleep and again our entertainment was the series called "Alba" on Netflix watched on my extra large iPad (best Yoigo gift ever). We didn't switch off the light until past 1 in the morning.

I was awake at 6.50 on Friday morning. By 8.30 am Dolores was ready to leave for Villablino to do some serious weekly food shopping. I was in the middle of my breakfast but was ready by 9 and we soon arrived in Villablino, that ugly ex mining town and the nearest shopping centre in the area - a 25 minute drive. 

First stop was Gadis, that wonderful supermarket only to be found in the north of Spain. I filled my trolley very quickly. The next stop was to Familia (another supermarket) for Dolores while I crossed the road and headed to the weekly market. They divide the clothes section from the fruit and veg which is a bit of a pain. Then it was time for coffee at a nothing special bar called Piramide. By then Oli and family had arrived. They also made a beeline for the clothes market where I joined them. They were buying TV cartoon t-shirts for Elliot who lives in a TV character fantasy world. He got a Sonic and Paw Patrol t-shirt. He also got his first underpants branded with his latest favourite character, Spider Man. That's because he is progressing in his toilet training. 

Oli and family at the clothes market in Villablino on Friday morning. 

From there we walked to the fruit market where I just got some cherries as I had bought all my fruit at Gadis. I got Oli to take a photo of Dolores and I buying fruit there. 

Shopping with Dolores on Friday. We met as friends in 1978 and in 1983 became sisters-in-laws

We are now sisters-in-law but first met at a school in Madrid in 1978,  way back. I later met her brother-in-law Eladio in 1980 and the rest is history. This week  on 28th July was our 39th wedding anniversary. We had to have a civil registry wedding first. Our church wedding was on 21st August and that is the one we always celebrate. As I commented on social media this week, marrying each other was the best decision of our lives. 

We were home by 13.50 and in a rush as we had booked a table at one of the only restaurants in the area; Cumbres de Omaña which is run by a very grumpy owner. We got there 10 minutes late and were told off. He is grumpy but his wife is a good plain food cook and the portions are enormous. Here is a photo to remember the moment. 

Lunch in Senra on Friday 

As he is so grumpy I was a bit afraid to ask him for a doggy bag, something that is gradually being introduced in Spain. It will become law in January 2023 and owners will be obliged to give the food in recyclable containers. I was the one to ask for the doggy bag for Elliot's macaroni and I got a grudging reply. It came wrapped in tin foil. I didn't say anything. If I had he would have been rude. 

We came home to unpack all our food which hardly fitted in the fridge and cupboards but I managed it. I always do, just as I do when packing suit cases. Then it was time for a siesta but I couldn't sleep as there was pandemonium  on the floor above us. Unfortunately we didn't sound proof this house which I much regret as you can hear every footstep from our downstairs bedroom. In the end I had to turf Oli and family and some of Elliot's cousins out so that we could get some peace. I couldn't sleep so got up and went to my favourite place - the back garden (La Era) to lie on one of the sun loungers and read my book with a cup of decaf tea and accompanied by Pippa. Soon Eladio joined me. Everyone else was out on the village common enjoying the pre festival atmosphere there. Alejandro, Eladio's youngest brother was playing the accordion but the loudspeaker made it far too loud. I soon found Oli and family and while the parents rested at home with Juliet who was asleep I took Elliot to the village common again where Eladio was talking to villagers he has known since he was a child. I then took Elliot to the new trampoline along with 2 of his cousins and they had a great time. As we walked home we went past one of Eladio's sister's houses where she has some of the typical local clogs called "madreñas" on the doorstep. These are designed for use mostly in cow sheds and are worn with your own shoes or slippers on. They were far too big for Elliot but he was keen to give them a go. They are made of wood and are heavy. Here he is with his feet in these typical clogs. Funny boy. 

Elliot trying out the local "madreñas"

Olivia was in the throes of making dinner - but I was not hungry. One of her uncles had given her courgettes and she wanted courgette omelet. I helped her make it. She also made home made gazpacho which was tasty. 

Most people in the village that night will have made their way to the village green after their dinner for the pre festival music and bar. Santa Marta, one of the main festivals here, was this weekend but began officially yesterday. Eladio and are I not good dancers and nor do we really like loud music or crowds so we went straight to bed.

By Saturday nearly the whole of Eladio's enormous family was here. He is the eldest of 6 and they are all now grandparents. It was to be a special day for many people here. Santa Marta, the patron saint of the village,  is much celebrated here. But I far prefer the village when it is quieter. 

Eladio and I had to go to Villablino on a couple of errands and enjoyed coffee out. I got more lamb chops for our 3rd barbecue of the week which Eladio cooked to perfection. 

Eladio cooking lamb chops on the barbecue yesterday

In the old days, all the family would gather for lunch on Santa Marta in the huge old barn which is now part of one of Eladio's brother's houses. The menu was always the same: potato salad, pie and lamb. We gave up the custom a few years ago but some of the family do continue it in their own group. It was always a joyous occasion. The adults sat at one table presided over by Eladio's parents and the children at another one. Our girls were blessed with happy summers in their father's village as will both Elliot and Juliet in the future. 

Eladio and I had our siesta and only went to join the fiesta when it was practically over. We had missed the best part - a colour and foam party. Everyone got wet and painted and had to come home and shower before going back. Elliot had a whale of a time. When we got there a game of throwing a huge stone was going on. In the photo below you can see it being played. 

Yesterday's fiesta - men playing a game with a heavy stone!

People were dancing, or in Elliot's case riding his bike and I caught his parents kissing. I think they have had a great time here too. 

Oli and Miguel at the fiesta yesterday

Eladio looking on - spot him in this picture

There was a feel good atmosphere with people of literally all ages. Some danced, some played games, some talked and some ordered drinks from the make shift bar in the marquee. I spent some quality time with little Juliet and Eladio caught us on camera. 

With little Juliet at the fiesta yesterday

The fiesta was not over as there would be music and dancing later on until the early hours but as you know dancing is not our thing. We had our last dinner with Oli and her family after which I spent some quality time with little Elliot in La Era. I will miss him and Juliet. 

Today is Sunday and I'm sad they are leaving. But I prefer to stay here where it is much cooler than in Madrid where the temperatures are still in the high 30's. I wouldn't mind going to Asturias but the house is fully booked of course until September.

I shall leave you now as Oi has just come down with little Juliet and I have to babysit while they have their breakfast.

Cheers then my friends until next Sunday. 

Masha