Friday, September 03, 2021

Return to El Cuetu in Asturias, discovering Ría de Barro, lunch at Casa Pedro Parres, walk on the Borizo Peninsula, rush home, freak rain, Elliot learning to swim, Abba is back and other tales of the week.

 Saturday, 4th September, 2021

About to drink some cider at Casa Pedro Parres on Monday 

Good morning all.

You may be wondering why I am publishing my blog today instead of tomorrow Sunday. That's because today Juliet should be born. This morning Olivia will be admitted into hospital for the birth to be induced. So I will be busy as you can imagine. We have to take care of Elliot and will be on tenterhooks all day for news of the birth. But don't worry I shall resume to publishing on Sunday again next week where you will be able to read all about Juliet's entry into the world. These are exciting times for us. This week has been exciting in its own way so read on to find out all about it. 

This week we returned to our "new house" in El Cuetu in Asturias, the house we bought one year ago. We had some maintenance work to do and also wanted to inspect it after so many reservations this year. It was great to be back and we were lucky with the weather. The sun shined throughout and the temperature was agreeable with about 23ºc every day.

Eladio outside our house on Sunday morning

As usual though I shall start this post with Covid figure reports. It may seem as though Covid is over for us, so far, but it isn't. Last Sunday the worldwide figures for the number of those infected and those who had died were 216,766,751 and 4.508.171 Today they have gone up, yet again, to 220.651.402 and 4.567.493. 

Today's world update - stolen from The Times

But today I read that the real figure of mortality could be up to or above 15 million. Why? Because many countries have under reported the numbers; Russia, India and areas of Latin American included.  Vaccinations are going well in the western world but what is worrying is hearing of deaths of people who have been doubly vaccinated. So yes even more need to be vaccinated. In order to reach "herd immunity" (hate that term), 90% of the world's population should get their vaccinations and that is not going to happen any time soon. We feel safe, perhaps too safe and try to be cautious.

But last Sunday we were not thinking about Covid. We couldn't do any maintenance or buy a new washing machine - the other was  old and needed replacing - so we spent a relaxing day. In the morning we explored new and old places. First we went to Llanes, the capital of this area called "El Concejo de Llanes". It is perhaps the most beautiful town on this coast. We had never seen it so full of people and commented that we like it best in May or September with fewer people. We found it difficult to park but managed to find a spot and then headed to the square we always go to to have a coffee. Called Plaza Parres Sobrino, countless Spanish films have been filmed here. It is a timeless square and unspoiled. But last Sunday it was too full of people. We had to have our coffee in the sun as all the tables in the shade were occupied. I left Eladio and Pippa for a while to pop into a 24h chemist and while I walked back I spied a wonderful looking cake shop (pastelería). What they had on offer was as good as the best patisserie in France. I could not resist the tarts; apple, lemon pie and almond. I also couldn't resist going into the amazing gourmet shop, Aramburu in the main square.

We bought what we always buy, "cecina", like Spanish ham but made from beef, as well as some  "pastel de cabracho" and these we bought for one of our dinners in El Cuetu. Pippa had to stay outside. There she waiting. Spot Eladio inside.

Pippa outside the shop. Spot Eladio inside. 

Before driving home, we wanted to visit an area we had seen on a TV programme about Asturias. It was the Parish of Our Lady of Sorrows in the small seaside village of Barro. The Barro beach is actually the nearest to El Cuetu but we had never seen the Church located on a fjord which when the tide is in, looks like it is built on the sea.

The Church of Our Lady of Sorrows on the fjord in Barro

We arrived at about 13h and were immediately overawed by the whole area, the fjord, the church, the views of the mountains and I couldn't stop taking photos like this one. 

The beach by the church

We walked along the road to the church marveling at what we were seeing. Eladio took photos too, like this one of me.

 Near the church enjoying the moment

We recognised the church or rather the cemetery from one of our favourite Spanish series, La Señora, which is filmed in Asturias. It was actually open and we went inside. It's not that the church or chapel was anything special, it was its location that makes it pretty unique.

From the church we walked across the beach to the other side as we spied a stretch of green and paths leading further along the fjord and to small beaches everywhere, like this one in Niembru, the village next to Barro. 

Eladio on one of the pretty beaches just off the fjord in Barro

That morning we had discovered another magical place in the vicinity and what a place too. We shall be back for sure.

It was getting late, past our lunchtime, so we headed home, stopping off on the way at a petrol station to refill one of the gas bottles used for hot water in our old house. It is such an archaic system but there are no gas pipes reaching our village.

That morning, Loli had given us some small green peppers as well as a huge courgette. We would have the peppers with the amazing steak I bought at the luxury butcher shop in Posada on Sunday.

The large courgette Loli, our neighbour gave us. She also gave us home grown mini green peppers and some of her hens's delicious eggs. 

I must say the steaks were very large and that combined with the tarts  made us feel very heavy. We went up to our room for a siesta at 4 pm. I must have dozed off and the next thing I knew it was 6 pm - a 2 hour restorative siesta. It did me the world of good.

I spent the rest of the day or what was left of it reading on our terrace which we love now thanks to the flowers we planted 2 months ago. I was also working at a distance on my new job in hospitality. That day my 3 Danish guests arrived at home. I would meet Ditte and her family this weekend. Then we had guests leaving and new guests arriving in Santa Pola. I was particularly happy about my Lithuanian guests who arrived this week for 6 nights. Vaidas, the father who had booked, seems a great guy and we both agreed we have to meet up. I look forward to that. 

Dinner was a light affair - neither of us were hungry and we watched the news while we ate our meal. The news was again mostly about Afghanistan. No more flights were leaving Kabul and US forces had struck back at Isis resulting in casualties once again. The US struck down Isis forces with drones and there bombs near the airport again. The last US troops left two days later with the world looking on. How will life pan out now for all those who have stayed behind I wonder?

That night we began a new TV series, a Spanish period drama called "La Cocinera de Castamar" (The cook of Castamar) which had been recommended to us by Rania's daughter who is a great fan of Spanish films and series. We liked it or rather I did. Eladio thinks it's a bit too slow. It was to be another series we left unfinished of which there are a lot. 

Monday came and I was up quite late for me at 7.30. We had lots of things to do that day but somehow managed to leave the house late at around 11. We went into beautiful Llanes to buy a new washing machine. All was very smooth; we picked one which they brought in the afternoon, installed and removed the old one. The technician reckoned it was 18 years old and estimated that the new one would last 8 or 9 years. That's programmed obsolescence for you isn't it? We also went into the big ironmonger for various things. I managed to buy some wine glasses to replace all those broken by our guests (damn them). 

We managed a quick coffee at Bar Galerna - where we always go  - in our favourite square and then it was back to the car to drive to the nearest garden centre in pretty little Cué. There Eladio got new soil for the geraniums - a huge 70 litre sack. Whey is soil measured in litres and not in kilos? I don't know. From Cué where people were going to the beach or for a meal, we drove back to Posada - the largest town near El Cuetu. There we stopped for another errand; to get a new shower head and other boring stuff from my husband's favourite shop there, the ironmonger to get what he didn't find in Llanes. We were having lunch out that day. So by 1.30 we were off again.

I had booked a table at the increasingly popular Casa Pedro Parres in the small village of San Juan de Parres a kilometre of so away from the popular town of Cangas de Onis. We went there last year for the first time, upon a recommendation from a friend, Miguel who lives in Cangas. We have been back at least 3 times and love. Recently I saw it feature on Oli's old programme - España Directo - on TVE and realised just how much more popular or well known it has become since last year. We were lucky to get a table but being Monday and the end of August we managed to get one. Here is Eladio sitting at our table outside. We chose to sit outside so that little Pippa could be with us. Just look how pretty the restaurant is and what a marvelous setting.

Lunch at Casa Pedro Parres on Monday, the only day we could get a table. 
Casa Pedro is popular not just for the setting but of course for the food which is outstanding. It's both traditional and at the same time has a touch of the modern. Everything they serve is delicious and surprises you. We decided on cider to accompany our meal as that is the traditional drink of the area and we love the cider pumps used to make it come out sparkling. The photo of me illustrating this blog is just at that moment, about to drink cider from a pump.

I went for the traditional flagship Asturian dish of "fabada", a stew made of butter beans, chorizo and other meats which together are called "compango" here and I wasn't disappointed. It came in an old enamel style pan which are making a come back. What I didn't eat was the blood sausage ("morcilla") which I can't stomach but Eladio and Pippa were glad to eat it for me. 
My fabada
But the best was yet to come; the dessert. Eladio ordered the staple cold rice pudding, popular here and in many places in Spain and I went for what I thought was a traditional brownie. 
Dessert at Casa Pedro Parres was heaven
But there was nothing traditional about it. It came in layers - first a layer of passion fruit, then the most crispy and chewy brownie ever covered in a mixture of cream and ice cream. It was the best brownie I have ever eaten. I told Eladio it was worth going to Casa Pedro Parres just for the brownie. You are probably wondering what the bill came to. Just 40 euros. That's Asturias for you.

With heavy stomachs again, we drove home. Eladio immediately set to work changing the soil of the geraniums and replacing a shower head. I read outside for a while and worked on and off. As you can imagine that night we were not hungry so just had fruit. 

Tuesday came and we had more errands to do so as to leave the house ready for new guests, not that there will be many as July and August are now over. We had to buy provisions for the house, loo roll, etc and other cleaning agents needed to spruce up the place for the winter. By 12 we were finished and had our morning coffee, this time in Posada de Llanes. With time on our hands I suggested we explore a new area I had been recommended. A neighbour, Maxi, who also runs a guest house there, told me of a beautiful walk at the end of the Borizo beach about 11km from our house. I read up about it and the walk is called "Paseo San Borizo" so off we went. Maxi had advised me correctly. What a beautiful place. It was warm that day and there were people on the beach.

The beautiful Borizo beach

It was quite full of people the day we visited. 


We could have sat on it or even bathed in the sea as we had all we needed in the car but we preferred the much needed walk. We parked just on the stretch of green where the walk starts and that overlooks the beach. We were stunned once again by the scenery.

Eladio and Pippa on the walk beside the Borizo beach

The walk took us up the hill of the peninsula with amazing views on either side.
The Borizo peninsula

We went past cows lying or grazing peacefully probably unaware of their amazing location. 
Cows grazing peacefully on the Borizo peninsula

At the top there was access to a nudist beach which I would love to go to one day. I have never gone nude at a beach and it's on my bucket list. 
Playa de Tayada, the nudist beach on the peninsula of Borizo. 
Everywhere we looked was a sight for sore eyes. We just love the rugged Asturian coast which is at its best in the sun, at least in my opinion. You can spy the mountain range on the horizon belonging to the peaks of the national park called "Los Picos de Europa" (the peaks of Europe) which are very popular in Spain. Our house is located half way between this mountain range and these lovely beaches near Llanes, the capital of our area of Asturias called "Concejo de Llanes". 

Again we had lunch out on Wednesday. Maxi had recommended the restaurant just across the road from the Borizo beach. I think it was called Casa María Elena. Once again "fabada" was on the menu and like suckers we went for it again. This time we tried not to eat too much. What we couldn't eat we took home in a doggy bag. 

To drive home we took the coastal road which took us through Barro and the fjord we had seen on Sunday. What a beautiful road. 

The afternoon was spent peacefully until I heard from my younger daughter Olivia that baby Juliet was getting very big. She was told that if she didn't go into labour before Saturday it would have to be induced. We took this as a message to return home the very next day. What if she went into labour and we were in El Cuetu? It would take 5 hours to get home and we had to be there to look after Elliot. I was worried all night and the next morning we made preparations to leave in a rush. I felt guilty for having gone at all. It was risky so I am now glad to be home.

Just as we were leaving I got a sudden reservation for that weekend and was happy to leave the house in a better condition. The people coming were a family from Galicia who wanted to do the famous Cares hiking trail in the Picos (Peaks of Europe). I have yet to do it but think that at this late stage in life I won't be adding it to my bucket list. It seems most people who rent our house in Asturias do so because of the attraction of hiking and mountaineering, perhaps more than beach hopping which is what we prefer, or I prefer.

Just as were leaving too, Loli, our neighbour came to give us more produce from her vegetable patch and more eggs from her hens. She came loaded with another giant courgette, big green peppers and the miniature variety too. How kind of her. I arranged for her to leave "a little something" for each group of guests from now on as well as flowers and local cider I bought for that purpose. Guests love arriving to see welcome packs on the kitchen table. I was thrilled with her generosity and there would be enough to share with Oli and Suzy. They are both vegetable freaks. I also thought of little Elliot who would enjoy the eggs.

We left at about 11.30, a bit late, and stopped in Posada to buy our lunch at the Lofer bakery; their wonderful tuna pie. I got a big one thinking of the girls who love it. I also bought their flagship apple sponge and some little walnut cakes (naughty but nice - oh how the kilos are piling on damn it). We were soon on the A8, the motorway that runs across the whole of the north coast and just as we got to Unquera in Santander - the next province and autonomous region, we saw the tail end of the Tour of Spain. That day was the most famous stage which takes the peloton to the legendary Lakes of Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe. My friend and former Tour de France and Vuelta de Espana winner, Pedro Delgado, now a commentator for TVE, was in his home country as it was probably on this stage that he forged his fame in Spain. It is perhaps the most difficult stage of the Tour of Spain. I mused how if this had been 15 years ago I would have been there too. In my past I had strong links to professional cycling but that's another story.

We stopped in Unquera to fill the tank of the car and our own tank, in that we had our morning coffee there before resuming our journey. We had another picnic lunch at the same place as our outbound journey, at the beautiful little village of Alar del Rey. Here you have me sitting down at our picnic table which we got for 10 euros from Decathlon last year for our trip to Portugal. We had the whole area of grass by the river Pisuerga just to ourselves. What bliss. I love eating out but I also love our picnics. 
Me enjoying our picnic by the river in Alar del Rey on our journey back from Asturias on Wednesday

The heavens opened when we resumed our journey and it rained for much of the way. There has been a lot of rain this week in Spain which is good for filling the reservoirs, good for our gardens but not good when there is too much of it. There was freak rain this week in the East and South East which caused so much damage to people's homes. It wasn't just in Spain. No doubt you have read about Storm Ida in the USA where catastrophic flooding caused the death of over 40 people in New York,  Even the metro or subway as it is called there was affected. Imagine the "subway" not working in the Big Apple? 
Flooding in New York affected the subway
In the New York and New Jersey, this was the worst rain storm in 150 years. Once again that is thanks to global warming.

On our journey home we drove through heavy rain for over an hour. That was so strange to experience here in Spain at the end of August. It wasn't warm when we got home at about 5.30 but the rain had stopped. After unpacking I went to greet my father who told me he had been well cared for- thank you Lucy. I then greeted my Danish guests, Ditte and her cousin Camila, from Copenhagen. They have come to settle in Ditte's 15 year old son, William, into a special basket ball school. My guests come for all sorts of reasons. I was sorry they had bad weather. Ditte told me they had brought no warm clothes so I lent them two of my winter shawls which I saw them wearing later at dinner. I remarked that they could have dinner inside in the dining room to which they replied they were Scandinavians and eating outside in the cold was no issue for them. They also told me this was warm for them hahahha.

As soon as we had settled in, we went to Oli's house. I was keen to see how she was and to see Elliot again. As usual, he was excited to see us.  My very pregnant daughter explained that she had decided to give birth at a different hospital to the one where she had been going to for check ups. So, instead of the Monteprincipe hospital she had chosen the Quirón hospital also in Pozuelo. She just didn't like the gynecologists at the former. I thought it was as wise choice. I like the Quirón hospital which has a state of the art Women's unit. She went there on Tuesday and that's when they told her the baby was getting too big. Juliet had gone from 3.2kg to 3.7kg in under 1 week. Her due date was 4th September and at the Quirón she was told it was better to induce labour on Saturday rather than wait the stipulated 10 days after the due date as the baby would only get bigger and bigger. Again she was told the head was very big. With Elliot she had the same issue and a very difficult labour. I could tell my daughter was worried. She didn't want to face another difficult labour. I understood and hope it will be easier this time.

I took lots of the produce brought back from Asturias and Miguel made a huge Spanish tortilla which we all enjoyed together. They especially appreciated the pie. Over dinner we discussed how we would take care of Elliot while his parents were at the hospital. We told them not to worry and that we would take good care of him. Of course we would but I knew it wouldn't be easy. He has never slept a night without them. Also it won't be easy for him to  see them with another baby usurping his place. It will all have to be handled with care. As advised by my cousin Katty, I have bough a present for him which I will give to him when he meets Juliet and tell him it's from her. 

It was great to sleep in our own bed that night. We sleep well in our house in Asturias but our bed here is the best in the world, for us at least. Thank you Lucy for changing our Zara Home sheets each week and for ironing them. I never iron sheets but do appreciate sleeping in them.

Thursday came and it had rained during the night. The temperature in just 10 days or so had gone from 43 to 24 and it felt fresh and cool. It didn't rain any more and now the weather has stabilised. That day our Danish guests went into Madrid and Felipe was out. So we had the house to ourselves. The girls were coming for lunch with Miguel and Elliot of course so after our walk with the dogs - much appreciated by Norah our beagle - we did some emergency food shopping.

I made bacalhau à brás and Suzy grilled the mini green peppers Loli had given us from her kitchen garden. We had a feast all together. After lunch both Eladio and I were shattered and in need of a long siesta so I think the girls and co just left. I felt sorry for breaking up the party but I so needed to rest. I had a pain in my groin which comes and goes occasionally and it came, most uninvited, on Thursday. Thankfully by Friday it had gone. It's probably wear and tear of which I have plenty (hahaa). I just hope it is not the run up to a broken hip. No, I wouldn't want that.

So we didn't see Elliot again until Miguel, his father, sent me a video of him learning to swim at their pool. I could hear the swimming pool attendant, Marcos, cheering on. Elliot is very fond of Marcos and now calls him by his name. These days his vocabulary is increasing and he is beginning to learn to say people's names. This is the video. Isn't he clever, learning to swim so young - not yet 2? Well, he has a great teacher as his father is an amateur swimmer who has competed many times in open sea races. 

Friday came and I was up early at around 6.30 am. I read the headlines and most of The Times digital edition to which I suscribe. It was all about the Taliban who are about to announce a new government - without women of course (hate the Taliban) and Covid as usual plus some British politics which doesn't really interest me. What did interest me was the story of the come back - albeit digitally - of the Swedish group Abba. That may seem frivolous but at least it is a positive story and we need positive stories these days.

So, yes Abba announced a come back that day for a concert to be held in London in November. I was a bit disappointed to hear they wouldn't be appearing live but as avatars, digitally. 

Why ever don't they want to appear live I wonder? Abba was hugely popular when I was a teenager in the 70's after they won the European Song Contest in 1972 with the song "Waterloo". No doubt you know this if you are from my generation or near about. They split up, after the marriages came apart. I'm not sure who was married to who - I never learned their names which are too difficult to remember - but rumour had it they swapped partners. So that probably caused the split up of the amazingly popular group. Their return is 40 years late in coming and the members are now in their 70's.  Agnetha Faltskog is 72, Anni-Frid Lyngstad, 75, Benny Andersson 74 and Bjorn Ulvaeus 76. Between them they sold more than 400 million records and I know I bought a few such as Abba Gold. Their most popular song was Dancing Queen. Yes, I liked that but my favourite has to be "The Winner Takes it All". I once heard that played in the Abba studio in Stockholm when I took a bunch of Spanish journalists there on a press trip with Nokia and I shall never forget the moment. 

Abba have released two new songs called "I still have faith in you" and "Don't shut me down".  I was interested to listen to them and found them on You Tube. They are very reminiscent of all Abba songs so I am happy they have stayed true to their roots and haven't moved on. If you haven't heard them already here is "I still have faith in you" and here is "Don't shut me down". I read too that the lyrics reflect the group's legacy and are a reflection on their past and the journey to this come back. It must have been amazing for the four of them to meet again and record new songs. The new album is called "Voyage" by the way. No doubt they will make a substantial amount of money but I somehow doubt their comeback is for financial reasons as I'm sure they make enough just with royalties to never ever have to worry about money. 

Being Friday we went to do the weekly shopping. Lunch was just us and my father - so very quiet. Our afternoon was quiet too. The highlight would be the night. We had a dinner date with our oldest friends, Mari Carmen and Roberto. Roberto is Eladio's friend and they were colleagues for many years. Mari Carmen is a pharmacist and I consider her my friend. We have known each other since the late 90's when I was still working at Motorola. Wow I was only 40 or so then. That's a long time. Our friends split up not so long ago but they still seem very close to me. It's a strange split up hahahaha. We had dinner at the fancy "Quinto Sabor" where they only serve a tasting menu. Its quite a famous place and in a very unusual location; an industrial estate not far from here. But oh the food is divine; exquisite I would say. Our dinner started at about 9.30 and we didn't leave until nearly midnight. We were so busy talking and eating that I forgot to take a photo. 

We were home late and I was up watching more of Grey's Anatomy for the second time round. I found it difficult to sleep knowing Juliet would be coming today. I also felt worried for Olivia who will  have the second most difficult day of her life today.

I was up at 7 and here I am now finishing this post in haste to get ready and rush to their house to see them off and take care of Elliot. 

So, my friends, here you have it, the tales of this week. Next week's post will be all about Juliet. I just can't wait to meet her. 

Cheers for now,
Masha




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