Part two of our anniversary trip to La Rioja, entertaining Nellie and Shar in Nájera, home again, reunited with Rania, carnage in Kabul, dinner in Pozuleo, off to Asturias and other stories.

 Casa del Cuetu, Asturias, Sunday, 29th August, 2021

In Nájera on our last day

Good morning again my friends. It is now the end of August and it was to be the last of our travels this summer except that on Friday we decided to go to our house in Asturias after the final set of guests left. Last Sunday I was writing from La Rioja and today I am writing from El Cuetu. 

How has your week been? Ours has been exciting; meeting Nellie again as well as Rania, a lovely Lebanese lady who was my guest in 2018 and with whom, like Nellie and Joanne, I became friends with. While we were in La Rioja last Sunday she arrived at our house. We would see her upon our return and we would meet her daughter Karelle (lovely name) too. 

As to the news it's the same topics, Covid and Afghanistan. Last week I reported a total number of infections and mortality of 212.165.567 and 4.436.957. Today the figures are 216.766.751 and 4.508.171. In Spain finally we are seeing the  numbers go down but slowly. What Spain is doing well at is ramping up vaccinations. It is one of the countries with the highest percentage of vaccines administered, even higher than the UK. This is the latest chart I stole from The Times who got it from Our World in Data.

So, yes Covid is still there but it was the last thing on our mind in La Rioja although we did try to be careful. As to Afghanistan, if you have been following the news you will be familiar with   the dramatic scenes of refugees desperately trying to flee the country and of the expected backlashes by the Taliban who are imposing their rule; a rule that dashes the hopes of a country, like none other in the world. You will know too that time has almost run out to bring home those who collaborated with international forces and organisations.

This time last Sunday saw us move from Briñas to the town of Nájera where we had booked 2 nights in an Airbnb. It was the be part two of our anniversary trip. We were going to be self catering so had to go in search of food; no easy task in the provinces where most shops are closed on Sundays. We were told by the hotel staff that there was a local market in a large village called Anguciana and a supermarket open in nearby Labastida which is actually not in La Rioja but in Alava in the Basque Country. 

As we drove to Anguciana after leaving our lovely hotel, we both commented how everything is very near in La Rioja. That's because in the peninsula, at least, it is the smallest "comunidad autónoma". Spain is divided into 17 of them as well as two cities in Africa, Ceuta and Mellila. These autonomous communities can be compared to the German lands or US federal states. These regions in Spain are not federal states but have just as much devolved power or more. In the map below you can see all the different regions and find La Rioja in the north, the smallest of them in the peninsula. There you have it, a little lesson in geography this week.

Spain - divided into autonomous regions - see La Rioja in the north. It is the smallest in the peninsula. 

The Balearic islands (not on the map) and the Canary islands are also autonomous regions. Each region is very different, has a rich cultural identity and a marked difference often in landscape but nearly always in gastronomy. Spain may be known for paella outside the country but I can assure you it comes only really from the Valencia region. Most tourists flock to the "costas" for sun and sea. That's fine but there is so much more to see and experience in Spain. So if you are coming again, venture further from the costas and try the north of the country, where, my friends, the food is the best to be had in the country; especially in the Basque country. 

On the topic of food, we needed some and arrived promptly in Anguciana only to find there was no fruit and veg at the market. Ah but there were other things; mostly clothes and I had to have a look didn't I? Here I am at the first clothes stall I saw and where I bought two more summer dresses. 

At the village market in Anguciana last Sunday

We spied people carrying eggs and bread and got directions to a tiny shop where we got some provisions. Bread was to be found at Bar Palomas where we also bought "pinchos"- tapas on top of bread which we ate for lunch. From Anguciana we drove to Labastida and arrived just before 1 when the little supermarket was about to close. We were there just on time and got the rest of the provisions we needed for our stay in Nájera.

We finally headed for Nájera which was a 30 minute drive; so again not far. Nájera, although it has a rich history is not one of the more interesting places to visit in La Rioja. However, I couldn't find the type of Airbnb house I wanted for these dates anywhere else. The place we were staying at seemed perfect and ticked all my boxes; place of our own, self contained, a garden and a river across the road for good walks. You can see the listing here. 

Our Airbnb house. It's divided into 3 independent apartment. Ours is at the top with a terrace

It is owned by two sisters, Julieta and Chavela in their 70's and it was their family home which they turned into three independent apartments. There were other guests there with whom we would only share the garden but there was no sign of them on our first day. In the end we only saw two of them. We loved the place. It was perfect for relaxing, reading, eating good meals, reading and going for walks. We had had our fill of visiting places in La Rioja so the second part of our anniversary trip would be spent there without leaving the town.

Our hostesses were very accommodating and showed us around. They had left us some home made "vegan" biscuits, home grown tomatoes and some tomato jam - not too keen on the latter. We moved in as soon as they left and were very soon settled in. The apartment is one big room with two beds, a kitchen area and a dining area with an ensuite bathroom. It is not particularly well decorated being simple but very comfortable. I particularly liked the outside terrace and of course the huge garden full of fruit trees. Julieta and Chavela said we could help ourselves to the fruit and we did.

Our Airbnb in Nájera

The Airbnb was extremely cheap at only 50 euros a night but our stay was free as I had used my yearly superhost coupon to book it. 

As soon as we were settled in we made a simple lunch with the provisions we had bought, including the delicious "pinchos" from the bar in Anguciana. I later spent the whole afternoon in the garden reading and working. Eladio joined me and we had the garden to ourselves. What a wonderful place. 

Time in the garden

We also inspected the fruit trees. There were quite a few but the only ripe fruit were apples and greengages. We helped ourselves to as many of the latter as we wanted.

We only ventured out that day to go on a walk by the river named Najerilla and to explore what there was to see of the old part of town. In medieval times and before the unification of Spain in 1492, Nájera was once the capital of the Kingdom of Navarra but that seems long, long ago. Today it is in decline and there wasn't much to see of any interest apart from the imposing Monastery of Santa María. There was a free piano concert being held in the cloisters inside but it was full and we couldn't go in. So we took photos outside, including some funny ones where you put your head in a sort of wooden statue - of the kings of the area from its past, like the one below. 

The Monastery in Nájera

Perhaps the best thing Nájera has to offer is the river and river bank which divides the town into two.We walked some of it but would walk along the river again before we left.

The River Oja in Nájera

Dinner was another simple affair: gazpacho, ham and bread which we had with some of the wine we had bought on our first day in La Rioja. If only the owners had provided proper wine glasses. It's not the same drinking good Rioja from a tumbler glass.

The TV didn't work so I watched a series from my iPad while Eladio was on his PC. We were asleep by about 11.30 and in very comfortable beds.

I woke up on our last full day in La Rioja at 06.40 but I had slept well that night. On Monday, we decided just to see a bit of Nájera and to rest in the garden at our lovely little Airbnb. Again we walked along the river bed to the bridge that takes you to the old town. From the bridge we spied a red rock formation with caves. 

The red rocks above the river in Nájera

It reminded us of Petra on a smaller scale of course. It was from these rocks that King García Sánchez III of Navarra built the foundations of the amazing Monastery in Nájera, Santa María el Real. It is believed that while out hunting he lost his falcon which flew into the cave. He went after it and came across a wooden Madonna. He took it as a sign from God and built a chapel for the virgin. He later built a church and then the monastery. There is not much left of the original building and the monastery is a complete mixture of architecture; Gothic and Plateresque and even Rococo. Its main treasures are the altarpiece and choir stalls. The original Madonna is still there in her cave and beside her are buried kings and noblemen from medieval times.

The original Madonna in the cave

One side of the Monastery

Eladio outside the Kings' gate

There was not much else to see in Nájera so we went in search of fruit for our meals which we found. we also came across a local pottery shop and bought a salad bowl. You may or may not know that Eladio and I have a collection of salad bowls from many of our trips. We love to use them and remember our travels.

We spent the rest of the day at our Airbnb. Silly me, I lay on a sunbed in the garden for a while and woke up with a splitting headache. It made me very sleepy and I slept for 2 hours after lunch and woke up to find the headache hadn't gone. This was not good as we were having guests around for drinks. Nelle and her sister Shar were in town believe it or not and I was dying to see Nellie again and to meet her sister too. They had come to stay in Nájera too and arrived promptly at 7 pm. We sat under hazelnut trees drinking Rioja wine and eating pistachios. I showed our guests around the garden and discovered even more fruit trees, including a kiwi and damsel tree. Unfortunately the kiwis and figs were not ripe but the greengages were.

Drinks in the garden with our new Aussie friends, Shar (left) and Nellie. 

When we had parted the day before we left for La Rioja I had not expected to meet Nellie again or meet her sister. We had plans of maybe, maybe, meeting on our trip to the Caucasus next year, possibly in Georgia, so I was delighted that we met again so soon. After the sisters left Madrid last weekend they hired a car and upon my recommendation headed north, visiting La Rioja first. They they went on to  explore the north coast of Spain, known as the "Green Coast". 

We had booked a table at a sort of tapas bar - tapas here are known as "pinchos" - called Las Ocas. Julieta had recommended it to me. When the time came we walked across the street to the river bed and crossed the same bridge again. Here we took photos. Dear Shar took one of Eladio and I which I have chosen for this week's feature photo. 

Eladio with our new Australian friends - Nellie and Shar in Nájera on our last night in La Rioja

Las Ocas was just a modest little bar but served divine pinchos. We ordered a lot for a small amount of money and enjoyed a dinner for kings. Everything was delicious. 

Dinner at Bar Las Ocas on our last night in Nájera

It was getting quite cold - about 19ºc - we were all tired so said our goodbyes at about 9.30 or 10. We vowed to meet again, hopefully in Georgia. As you will have read last week we want to go on a road trip next year to Iran but it seems to be difficult to enter as an independent traveler and can be dangerous for a UK citizen like me. Thus, as recommended by an ex pupil of my father, Johnathan S, our final destinations will most probably be Georgia and Armenia. It was Nellie who inspired me when she mentioned Georgia as part of her trip with her sister which has been ongoing since the beginning of the pandemic. So hopefully we shall meet again and in the not too distant future.

I slept well on our last night in La Rioja and was up early on Tuesday morning, the day of our return home. We had had a great time on this romantic anniversary trip but all good things come to an end and it was time to go home. 

We had until to noon to check out but decided to leave as soon as we were ready. So, at about 10.30 we set off having left the apartment tidy and clean just as I would like all my guests to leave our houses (not all of them do unfortunately). Our apartment was at the top of the house and has an extremely steep staircase to reach it. My dear husband lugged all our stuff down in in a few trips. The apartment was perfect except for this staircase. But at only 50 euros a night for 2 people I was not complaining. 

The steep staircase to our apartment in Nájera

As usual the satnav played tricks with us and to leave Nájera we found ourselves on a dirt track on the verge of a canal. It took some manoeuvring to get back onto a road that would lead us out of the town. Our drive home was quite short, just under 4 hours so we decided to have lunch at home. We stopped just once for a coffee at a roadside café about 100km from Madrid and noticed how much warmer it was than in La Rioja.

Eladio is my waiter - bringing me coffee at a roadside café on our way back from La Rioja on Tuesday

We were home by 13.45 and lunch was ready - thank you Lucy. Pippa was the first to greet us - she always is and it was wonderful to be reunited with her. It was also great to see my father again with whom we had lunch as soon as we arrived.

Our house seemed so spacious compared to the places we had stayed. After lunch we were soon in our huge suite of rooms ready to unpack - I do the unpacking - but needed the air con desperately as they had been closed in our absence. We watched the tail end of the news with dire stories of the desperate flee of people from the airport in Kabul. On Tuesday there were warnings from the Taliban that there could be no planes taking Afghans away as from 31st August. The situation must be terrible and it is. 

I live a life of luxury compared. I couldn't sleep so by about 4 was having a cup of tea and printing my last blog for my father. Suzy returned about then from looking after her friend, Marta's house, plants and cat. It was good to see her. I spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool with her and we had it to ourselves. I had to take a dip as it was very warm.

I was looking forward too to being reunited with Rania who was out flat seeking for her son who studies dentistry at the University nearby. We first made friends when she came with him in his first year in September 2018. We saw each other twice more but, owing to Covid, not since 2019. My Airbnb adventure has allowed me to meet and make friends with people from all over the world. Of all of my guests 3 stand out, 3 who have become close friends. They are dear Rania of course who is a Lebanese Christian who lives in Brussels, Joanna, my English friend who is a teacher of Spanish in Lancashire and more recently wonderful Nellie from Australia. Oh why do all my girlfriends live abroad? I don't have any proper girlfriends here since my dear best friend Fátima passed away in December 2018. Rania had brought me presents as she always does; chocolates from Belgium and biscuits from Lebanon.

She was home just as we were having dinner but wasn't hungry as she had had lunch at 5.30 that afternoon. It was so great to see her again. We sat and spoke until at least 10.30 and the next day we would have lunch together. 

Wednesday came and Eladio and I absolutely had to do the shopping as there were no supplies left in the house. But first we went for an early morning walk at 8 am to avoid the sun. The dogs were so pleased to get a walk. On the path we ran into a couple with a dog with shoes on believe it or not. I had only ever seen that in New York. The couple explained its paws had got infected from thorns on the walk. I shall have to inspect our dogs' paws now. I can hardly imagine them with shoes on, can you?

We did the shopping in record time and I was back on time to put stuff away and then I was off again, this time to pick up Rania who had been apartment seeking in Madrid. We went to have lunch nearby at El Tinglado, a lovely bar restaurant near us which serves divine food. We went for three starters that we shared; salmorejo (a variation on gazpacho from Córdoba), artichokes and dessert foie (minced frozen foie which when served looks like sand!). 

Lunch with Rania - pure pleasure - on Wednesday

It was so good to have lunch with a girl friend and to catch up with Rania. She had so much to tell me, especially about her home country, The Lebanon, where her mother and a sister still live. We only hear about Afghanistan at the moment but The Lebanon is in a dire situation with shortages, banks closed, no fuel, not much electricity and people not having enough food to live. I had no idea. She told me it was similar to Venezuela and is doing whatever she can to bring her mother out. How sad for such a beautiful but war torn country. Thankfully Rania lives comfortably in Brussels but of course she is worried about her family.

We came home for a siesta and believe it or not at about 4 or 5 pm the clouds suddenly opened and we had a surprise and quite a strong rainfall. That was good for the garden and cleared the air making it so much fresher. I even put on a cardigan when we went out again, this time to look at two apartments near the University for her son.

Once home, Suzy was in the throes of making our dinner as we were to be joined by Oli, Miguel and Elliot whom we hadn't seen since we left for La Rioja. Oli is very heavily pregnant with less than two weeks to her due date (4th September). Juliet already weighs 3.2kg and, like Elliot, her head is big. I do hope the birth will be easier than last time.

We all had dinner together and it was the highlight of the week for me, at least. Elliot behaved perfectly. He sat next to me and ate everything put in front of him.

Family dinner with Rania on Wednesday night

We all had to speak English, including Miguel and Eladio who are always a bit hesitant but who both speak it quite well. Elliot has no problem with either Spanish or English but still doesn't talk properly. He seems to have his own language, only one he understands and he babbles at us and we don't understand except for a few words. But oh how he wants to express himself. He is a very communicative little boy and often has us in stitches.

All good things come to an end as did our lovely family dinner that night. Oli and family left at around 10 pm and soon Eladio and I were in bed. We started a new series on Netflix that night called "Sweet Girl". I fell asleep quite soon and the next thing I knew it was 6.45 and I got up.

Thursday was another day in August which is nearly at an end. That morning while I was at the hairdresser and then at Spain's flag ship store, El Corte Inglés to pick up my new Samsung S20 phone, something terrible was happening in Kabul.

We all know that thousands of Afghans are racing against time to get out of the country now led by the Taliban. The deadline is the day after tomorrow for foreign forces to leave and take with them as many locals who have collaborated with them as they can. Well, Isis came on the scene as if there wasn't already enough chaos. Two suicide bombs went off at the airport and at the Baron Hotel, an HQ nearby for registering those leaving. The bombs killed over 100 locals and 13 US military citizens. It was carnage in Kabul as seen before but deadlier than ever with the current situation. 

A scene from Kabul airport suicide bomb attacks on Thursday

And there I was at the hairdresser and buying a luxury phone. I wonder if people like me realise just how lucky we are to have been born where we were born, in safe and relatively rich countries. That was on my mind as I set up my new phone and transferred all the data from my old one. It took me until the night. Lucky me though. You won't be surprised to know that my old phone will be for my husband Eladio. Times have changed for us all. When I worked in the mobile phone industry I had access to all the latest models and never had to buy one. I suppose I never realised just how expensive they are and took them for granted. I don't today. 

Friday was a quiet day but exciting in its own way. I had no errands that morning so after our walk Eladio and I went to see Elliot - and his mother and father of course (they get less attention these days haha).  Here is our darling not so little boy Elliot happy to see us again. 

Little or not so little Elliot happy to see us again on Friday

Miguel was busy with paperwork for his mother who sadly became a widow just a week or so ago and went for lunch to her house. Oli and Elliot joined us for lunch and it was a marvelous meal as we were nearly all together, including my dear father and Suzy who we don't see much of these days.

Despite Elliot we were able to have a siesta. I didn't take a nap but took the time to set up Eladio's "new" phone. He was delighted with it as I am with mine. Oli had to wake up her little boy who slept for 2 hours and she brought him to our bed. He woke up smiling next to us. I gazed at just how long he is and got out my trusted old tape measure, inherited from my mother. He measure about 90 to 95 cm which is probably the size of a 3 year old yet he is not even 2 until next month. We spent some quality time with him and when his parents went to do their food shopping we kept him entertained. He loves getting into our cars, playing with the toys he has here, as well as some of my bric a brac but he also loves the swings, the swings his mother and aunt got when they were just as bit older than him now.

Elliot on the swings.

Normally we would all have had dinner together except that Eladio and I had a dinner date with Rania and her daughter, Karelle, who came to join her from Brussels on Thursday. We chose a half way point to Madrid, in Pozuelo, which, by the way is the richest town in Spain. It's mostly made rich by the huge villas, many of them occupied by Real Madrid football players hahaha. By then Rania had found an apartment for her son for when he comes back for his third year in dentistry at the local Uni. So she was free to enjoy time with her  old delightful 22 year  daughter whose first time it was in Madrid. Karelle was loving Madrid. We went to La Txitxarrería (try saying that), a Basque restaurant we are fond of in upmarket Pozuelo and to where we take many of our non Spanish guests. The food is great and the place authentic. There is not a tourist in sight. 

We were a bit late and arrived at about 8.45. I was amazed to see it was nearly midnight when we parted. Apart from eating delicious food, we just talked and talked and talked. Rania and I have so much in common and have become really good friends. Her daughter reminds me of me when I was her age. I was only one year older when I met Eladio. I looked at her when I thought that that but don't remember thinking I was particularly young at the time but I was of course. She has a whole life ahead of her and a head firmly on her shoulders. She is studying business engineering and wants to become a business woman in the luxury goods industry. It's not often someone her age has her mind set on what career she or he wants to pursue. No doubt she will do well. She has her own You Tube channel which you can find here. She is looking for more subscribers so please oblige. 

With my friend Rania and her daughter Karelle on Friday night

We had to fight over the bill and Rania won. So thank you my dear friend. Have a great time for the rest of your stay and come back soon.

We came home to a dark house; everyone was asleep and soon were we too.

Saturday came, the day we had decided to come to Asturias. But we had a problem; a message was popping up in Eladio's old Volvo to say it needed servicing. He solved it by getting an early morning appointment at Norauto in Majadahonda and we hoped to be able to leave at around 11 am. He was back earlier than expected and I was ready with all our luggage, Pippa and some supplies including our picnic lunch.

We left soon and as always stopped for a coffee on the way - one of the pleasures of traveling by car. Our picnic lunch was had at Alar del Rey, a pretty little place in the province of Palencia we discovered a while back. We set up our table and chairs on the grass by the river and were soon tucking in.

Our picnic lunch yesterday on our way here

It's only 1.5 h from Alar del Rey to El Cuetu so we would soon be here. We did stop though in the town of Posada on the way to get some food for our stay. That took a while as we went to the butchers, the green grocer, the bakery and the supermarket. We would have enough for 2 or 3 days. Soon we were in our village.I was delighted to see a peach tree in full bloom in the plot next to our house - oh how we would love to own that plot but it's not to be unfortunately.

The peach tree in the garden next to our house here

It took us a while to unpack and settle in. With all the guests this summer, things in the kitchen were all over the place and I had to put them back the way I like them. There was just a short space of time left before dinner and I spent it on the terrace where Loli had left all the laundry out to dry. We greeted her and she kindly gave us half a dozen of her eggs. They are the best in the world. With her and her husband was a woman called Susana - like my daughter - who unbelievably is from the same area as Eladio in León, an area called "Omaña". Like us, she owns a house here. She even knew people from "our village", Montrondo. What a coincidence.

We had Loli's hens' eggs for dinner with ham, followed by fresh fig and a bit of cake from the bakery. Later we started a new series on Neftlix but Eladio soon fell asleep. He was tired from driving. I joined him shortly afterwards as did Pippa who slept on my bed - she always does here.

I got up later than usual this morning, at about 7.30 and here I am now finishing off this week's blog post. Breakfast awaits me so I shall sign off now until next week. Maybe, maybe, by then Juliet will have been born and I shall be telling you all about her next Sunday. 

Cheers then to all from me until the next time,

Masha

Leaving Montrondo, the Taliban take over Afghanistan, meeting Nellie, figs from our garden, trip to La Rioja to celebrate our 38th wedding anniversary and other stories.

 Briñas, La Rioja, Sunday 22nd August, 2021

Photo taken last night during our anniversary dinner

Good morning everyone from the famous wine area of La Rioja in Spain. Many of you reading this blog post will be familiar with the wine but I wonder if after reading this, that I may have whetted your appetite to actually visit the area which I sincerely recommend you do one day. Put it on your bucket list if you haven't already been here. 

It has been a very full week so let me rewind to start from last Sunday. This time last week marked the end of our stay in Montrondo. It was hot, 30ºc and an unbelievable 41ºc in Madrid. We were not looking forward to coming home. The heatwave which began over a week ago is now receding but I don't remember it ever having been as hot as this. I reported last week that in Spain the highest temperature ever recorded was in a town in Córdoba when mercury reached over 47ºc. Most of southern Europe has been sweltering and we all attribute it to climate change. So, I was surprised to read that the current highest temperature ever recorded in Europe was in 1977 when mercury reached 48ºc somewhere in Greece. 

The heatwave continued in the news as did Covid. Once again, I start my Sunday blog post reporting on the lastest figures worldwide. If this time last week the total number of those infected and those who died was 202.987.420 and 4.299.760, today these figures stand at 212.165.567 and 4.436.957. So, yes, once again, the numbers are going up. Here in Spain or in my little bubble somehow I feel immune not necessarily to the virus but to the news. We have never caught it, we have lived through tough restrictions and come out safe and life seems relatively normal, except that it isn't. On the plus side we really can do nearly anything we want so I feel lucky.

On Sunday morning last week I was up early and by about 11.15 or so we were all packed into Oli and Miguel's big station wagon type car with so much stuff it looked like a gypsy caravan inside. Eladio drove, Oli was the co pilot and I sat in the back with Pippa at my feet and Elliot in his car seat next to me. I was surrounded by all his stuff and the journey was not to be smooth I'm afraid.  We were stopping in León, the capital of the province, to see Eladio's 99 year old mother at her care home. 

We had last seen her in May and that was the first time in a year so my husband was looking forward to a reunion. I was looking forward to seeing my mother-in-law but above all I wanted her to see her great grandson, Elliot. We arrived just a few minutes late as it was damned difficult to find anywhere to park. The idea was to take her out for a coffee so we could all be with her as otherwise only 2 people are allowed inside. We parked and Eladio rushed to get his mother only to be told it was nearly her lunchtime and he only had 20 minutes. Meanwhile Oli, Elliot and I were waiting at a designated cafe only to receive a call from Eladio to go quickly to the care home if we wanted to see his mother. That wasn't easy. It was boiling hot, our car was far and Oli, being nearly 9 months pregnant walks very slowly not to mention Elliot with his little legs. I got there first and was allowed in to the visiting lounge. The window was open so we wheeled Ernestina to the window to see Elliot and Oli who had just arrived but couldn't come in. We were "caught" by a member of staff who went ballistic. She said it was against the rules even to take a resident to a window to see relatives! I couldn't believe it. It made no sense that she could go out and see as many people as she wanted yet only 2 can come in and she is not allowed to go to a window to see people. I mean how stupid is that. With little Elliot waving at his great grandmother who was being dragged away, I'm afraid I burst into tears. I was too distraught to argue with the staff who were more interested in their resident getting her lunch on time than seeing her far off relatives. I didn't like the way they referred to her either when they called her "this one" saying she was happy and easy to feed. I think she would have been far happier to go outside with us and have her lunch late. It was just too much for me and for us all. Thus, no photo to record this very disappointing visit. 

As we left León, I rang a few places on the way to book a table for lunch but it was mission impossible. Sunday 15th August is perhaps one of the busiest days for the hospitality industry. It is the middle of the high season but also 15th August is the Feast of the Assumption and  a bank holiday. Oli suggested we eat in León and found us a restaurant she though was   a cider house but it turned out to be an "oriental" restaurant, a quaisi one at that. The food was nothing special and I didn't particularly like much on the menu but then again I am something of a fussy eater. Elliot was happy mostly about an old red scooter in the dining room which was there for decoration.

Elliot with his grandfather, Eladio, at the restaurant in León where we had lunch last Sunday on our way home. 

We were out by about 3.30 and resumed our journey. Elliot slept for a while, thank goodness. It was around 4 pm when Oli got a call from Miguel, her partner, to say her father had taken a turn for the worse.  A few minutes before we were talking about buying an ice cream at a petrol station but after this bad news I was in no mood for ice cream. A week ago last Sunday, Paco, his  father had been admitted to hospital with terminal stomach cancer. He had been diagnosed with metastasis in June and had rapidly deteriorated since then. Since he was admitted to hospital his digestive system stopped working and he was getting worse by the day.  How sad. I watched Elliot who was blissfully unaware of the news I have only met Paco on a few occasions and they were happy ones; at the birth of Elliot and on New Year's Eve at a party at our house in December 2018, just before the pandemic.  I had hoped he would live to see Juliet but it was not to be.

Just as we had the bad news, Oli's relatively new and state of the art mobile phone stopped working; the screen was broken. Thus she had to use mine to communicate with Miguel. Then Elliot had to use it to watch Peppa Pig to calm him down. Usually my phone is out of bounds for my not yet to be 2 year old grandson but on that stressful journey home, I had to let him have it. Thus communication was somewhat stressful too. I couldn't wait to get home. However even that would be difficult as we entered hot, hot Madrid at about 5ish. Oli didn't have her house keys so we drove first to our house to get the key. Eladio returned with her to help her unload and carry all her stuff with loads of baby paraphernalia to her flat. Thankfully I was allowed to stay at home. Mysteriously since then Elliot's bag of summer clothes and Oli's kindle never appeared and we suspect someone broke into the car during that stressful journey home. There is no other explanation. 

I walked into our bedroom and it was like a sauna. The temperature was 32ºc inside. I switched on the air con immediately and it was left on until the early hours of Monday morning. After unpacking, greeting my father and taking a shower, I went to look for my new guest, an Australian woman called Jenelle (Nellie) just 3 years younger than me  who has been "back packing" for a year and a half with her sister since the pandemic began in January 2019.  She and her sister had sold up their properties, put the proceeds into stocks and shares and  left for a 2 year trip around the world. They argued that now was the time to do it before they had grandchildren or were too old. Their first destinations were India and Nepal and they were in Kathmandu when the pandemic broke out. They had two choices, return to Australia or carry on their travels. They chose the latter and have been doing slow traveling ever since, staying long periods of time in Greece, Turkey, Egypt and now Spain. Their next destinations seem to be Italy and Cyprus. They have no fixed return date so are taking their trip slowly. Oh, how I envy them. 

We met by the pool and I immediately loved my new guest. I could tell she was the kind of guest who would turn out to be a friend. One of the great advantages of hosting people in our home is the opportunity to meet people from all over the world and to make new friends. I knew that Jenelle - aka as Nellie - would be one of them. 

We spoke for a while and then went to to the kitchen. My Aussie guest, true to her British origins, wanted a drink - i.e. something alcoholic. She offered me  vermouth, something I never drink so I got out a half full (notice I said half full and not half empty) bottle of chilled Bornos white wine from Rueda. Felipe, our Russian born lodger was having his dinner so we joined him on the kitchen patio. The encounter turned into a little drinks party; the sort I like best. There we were, an Australian, me and Felipe hybrids of Russian Spanish and Russian English origin and then my husband  who joined us, added another nationality; Spanish. It was like the United Nations. I should also count another nationality for Lucy who is from Paraguay. When the wine was finished I got out a bottle of Asturian cider and some gazpacho. 

A scene from our impromptu international drinks evening with our guests on Sunday night

I also offered my guests some of my leftover apple crumble. We sat around the table exchanging information about our origins and our lives and it was the most wonderful end to a very stressful day.

It was last Sunday when the Taliban entered the Afghan capital of Kabul. The fall of Kabul marked the end of a 20 year mission from western forces. In just one day freedom came to an end. The country's president, Ashraf Ghani fled the country, seeking refuge in Uzbekistan. Anyone who could get out was trying but there were no commercial flights leaving the country. Last Sunday and in the following days, the capital's airport, protected by US troops - those that were still there- was mobbed by thousands desperate to escape. Thousands are still trying to leave. There are many people who collaborated in the last 20 years with foreign forces, notably translators, and they know they will be a target for revenge. Many of them are trying still to get out. 

Photo courtesy of The Times

But only military planes are leaving and taking home their nationals and some Afghans who had worked for their countries. Last Sunday marked too the beginning of the second era of Taliban rule and all that means, mostly for women. Women who had abandoned the old blue burqa were buying that awful curtain like overall again and there was  a roaring trade for them in markets everywhere. Imagine having to wear one of these?

Buying a burqa in Kabul

Imagine being a woman in Afghanistan today. Young women don't remember the previous Taliban rule but their mothers do and they are urging their daughters to wear these repressive burqas. The Taliban who never really disappeared, returned after Biden, the US President, ordered his troops home a few months ago. It has taken just this time for them to rule again. Oh how I hate the Taliban. Oh how I feel for women in this country, one of the most oppressive for women in the world. America was not looking good and it was on Monday that Joe Biden gave a press conference which offered a simple explanation. What I understood was that they left after training and funding a new Afghan army to fight the Taliban and that it was not the mission of the US to rebuild the country. Biden basically blamed the new army for not standing up to the Taliban. From what I have read and know, it is pretty obvious this would never work as allegiances are easily changed in Afghanistan and thus many soldiers either stopped fighting or joined the Taliban. This has happened over and over again so all of the US money to build a new army has come to nothing without them supervising. Then in an unprecedented move on Tuesday, the Taliban held a press conference for the world to watch and listen. The message was more moderate than in previous times but for me whatever they said that was moderate was for western ears only. Women, they say, will have rights but within their framework. We cannot believe a word they say because we know them for what they are. They will install a government based on the hardest version of Sharia law that exists, the hardest in the world. So yes they say girls can go to school but the reality is that probably they will only be taught religion. Not much more. Women will be confined to their houses, TV and music, not to mention internet, will be banned and no doubt hands will be chopped off of those suspected of stealing. There will be probably be a return to public executions. We are already seeing signs of it. What a mess. 

In our little drinks party on Sunday evening we briefly mentioned this news and thanked our lucky stars we live in the west which even with all its faults, is paradise compared to life under an oppressive regime. I went to bed at around 11 pm feeling exhausted after a very long and stressful day but thankfully I slept quite well.

I was awake at 6.30 on Monday morning.  I got a message soon after from Miguel who was on his way to the hospital. He asked us to take care of Oli and help her with Elliot as she is exhausted, mostly because she is heavily pregnant. We would do so of course. Oli needed either to mend her phone or buy a new one, so I suggested we go together and leave Elliot with his grandfather. The idea was to give Oli time off too which she badly needed. So there we were out shopping together at Spain's flagship department store, El Corte Inglés. I told her I felt like a criminal but it was also a thrilling feeling to be out shopping and on our own if only for 1.5 hours. Mending her phone was too costly to be worth it so my daughter decided to get a new one. I'm afraid I got one too. Mine is not old but the battery life is not what it was and I thought I deserved a new one after all my work this summer. We both got a Samsung Galaxy S20 FE with 250 GB which should have enough capacity even for me. It's not the latest model which is the S21 but I preferred the S20 because it has room for a memory card and you don't have to rely on Samsung's Cloud storage. This model is 5G so is quite up to date. There were none in stock but hopefully we should get our new phones quite soon. 

Soon to be my new phone

While at the department store I splashed out on a new bottle of perfume as I was completely running out. I bought a new one this time, one I had tried out a while ago which is so fresh and lovely for the summer. It's by Guerlain and is the mandarin fragrant EDT. Love it, love it.

My new perfume - love it

We were home by 1.30 and shortly afterwards, Suzy arrived to make the family complete. We all had lunch together which I think made not only myself pleased but my father too. He looked on at little Elliot's antics with a great grandfatherly smile. 

We all had a siesta in air conditioned rooms and convened again at around 5.30. Suzy had gone but we would see her later in the week. It was hot, Elliot was playing up and Oli was frankly exhausted so we took over. We both put on our bathing costumes and took him down to the pool where we spent the afternoon.

Oli and Elliot in the water on Monday afternoon with Pippa looking on

Little Elliot was completely oblivious to the fate of his other grandfather as he enjoyed life with us. Oli was permanently on the alert for news and so were we. We finally got the fatal news when Miguel called my youngest daughter shortly before 6 pm. Even though we were expecting the bad news, it still shocked us all. The only thing that comforted me was the fact that both his sons and his wife were with him until the end. I reflected that when my mother and my brother died I was not able to be with them. I would have loved that privilege however awful the moment would have been. We wanted to join Miguel and his family but he told us it would all take a long time and not to go until the next day when the coffin would be placed at the big funeral parlour on the M40 ring road in Madrid. In Spain it is customary to take the deceased person to lie in a funeral parlour so family and friends can pay their respects. Then 24 hours after death the body is either cremated or buried. We would go to the funeral parlour the next day. My heart went out to the family and I was upset that Paco would never meet Juliet soon to be born. He did however get to know his little grandson Elliot and that brings me comfort. 

I'm sure Oli would have liked to be with Miguel in those dreadful moments but we advised her not to go. She is  too pregnant to be driving far from home. Thus she stayed and we had dinner together. Lucy made us some Spanish tortilla some of which I saved for Nellie, my Australian guest. When they left I spent some time with my new Airbnb friend by the pool. It helped me relax after such bad news.

Tuesday came and it was to be a somber day. Oli picked us up at about 10.30 and we went in search of flowers before getting to the funeral parlour. We only found closed florists with owners and staff on holiday. In August Spain almost grinds to a halt. Thus I had to get them online and that worked fast. I was very ashamed later to see that ours were the most humble of all the flowers people sent. We arrived soon at the big funeral parlour which I have seen countless times when I have driven on the M40 but never imagined myself going inside. But I did on Tuesday. I wore black out of respect but also because I don't really have a smart summer dress suitable for a funeral. I did, at least, get Eladio to wear long trousers and a long sleeved shirt. It was so good to finally be able to hug the family. Maybe we shouldn't have because of Covid but we are all vaccinated and we needed to hug. Elliot, of course, hadn't a clue what was going on. As the parlour assigned to his other grandfather was on one of the upper floors he was delighted to see all the cars on the ring road, shouting out "car, car, .car". He was also delighted without knowing why to suddenly be together with his two grandmothers. He had never experienced that since he was a baby and of course he can't remember. He kept holding both our hands and he just brought a breath of joy to an otherwise very sad occasion. 

We stayed for about 2 hours comforting the family who was distraught just as I was when I lost my mother and then my own brother. There is no preparing for the death of a parent or child. We came home for lunch which dear Lucy made and in the early evening returned for a little service called a "responso" before Paco was taken to a cemetery on the other side of Madrid to be cremated.  I hoped his family would be able to rest too. They will be going through the mourning or grief period, one I am very familiar with. Time helps and heals but it's early days and now they are distraught. I hoped they would at least be able to sleep.

Once home, we were all exhausted, especially my heavily pregnant daughter Oli. I made a huge effort to come up with something for dinner as our cupboards were practically bare. When Oli and Elliot left I sat with my guests Felipe and Nellie. We spoke about the Taliban press conference. Neither of us women were on the same page as our Russian born guest who argued that it was sort of ok for women to be second class citizens in Afghanistan as that was the country's culture. Obviously we heartily disagreed.

There was no rest for the wicked that night as I got into bed tired after a long, hot and sad day, because I started getting messages from potential swimming pool guests for this weekend. I finally got a reservation for 12 who are coming today while we are away. That had me messaging to and fro until well past midnight.

Wednesday came and my priority was shopping. Eladio's was to mow the lawn. Good for him; it needed doing. He was up early to beat the sun and still hadn't finished when I left to do the shopping. I took Nellie with me as she hadn't left the house since her arrival and her cupboards were bare too. It was lovely to go out with my new friend. For her, food shopping here is rather different to in Australia of course. We went to Mercadona then to the more exclusive BM after which I took her for a coffee to Alverán, our local little cafe I am fond of. We sat there for a long time chatting away - we are both chatterboxes. Thankfully by Wednesday the weather had cooled down to 34ºc max (that's still a lot) and life was pleasanter outside. 

We came home to unpack the shopping and that's when I spied fruit on a fig tree just under the garage roof. I looked up and could see a few. How exciting. Our fig trees are quite young and until this year had not borne any fruit. Although I have lived in Spain since 1980, I still get a thrill from fruit growing in our Mediterranean garden or when I spy orange trees lining the streets of some of Spain's towns and cities. I still find it exotic as I was born in England where picking figs or peaches from your garden is almost unheard of. 

Eladio on the ladder picking figs

Eladio only picked 4 as the rest weren't ripe enough. We then went to inspect more fig trees which are smaller than the one by the garage but didn't find any fruit. I admired Eladio's freshly mowed lawn and had to have a photo of him posing with Pippa. Here they are, two of the loves of my life.

Eladio and Pippa posing on the freshly mowed lawn on Wednesday

Lucy was in charge of lunch that day so after picking the figs I had half an hour to myself before lunch. I chose to lie on the new sunbed in the shade by the pool with my kindle. I would spend the rest of the afternoon there too, all by myself and in peace with no household or family responsibilities; what luxury. There was time too for a skype call with Amanda, my oldest school friend who lives in Devon. It was good to catch up as we had missed two weekly calls. There she was inside her home with a thick jumper on and there I was sitting by the pool clad in light summer clothes. After catching up with my friend I had half an hour more to myself. I chose to ring Oli who I was missing as I was missing Elliot. It was my first day without them for more than 10 days. Oli was resting at home, rest she needed. 

Dinner time came, the highlight of my day in the summer. I love our dinners in the evening at this time of year on the kitchen terrace. We were joined by Nellie who I just loved hosting. I got Eladio to take a photo of the two of us. Here we are enjoying life. 

Dinner with Nellie the night before we left for La Rioja

It was to be our last night with Nellie. She has been a pleasure to host. I wish her well on her travels and hope to see her again. 

That night we watched a documentary film about the Spanish poet and play writer, Federico García Lorca. It was on because Wednesday 18th August was the 85th anniversary of his death at the hands of a nationalistic firing squad at the beginning of the Spanish Civil War. Lorca is one of Spain's most famous poets and I studied his life and work when I did my degree in Hispanic Studies at Nottingham University. Lorca is loved in Spain by many but he is revered so much more by English and American Hispanists. I'm not sure why he is so revered by them. I think it has something to do with the fact that first he was gay - so taboo in Spain at the time and also because of his works on the repression of women. That's what made me fall in love with his work. Of all the Spanish writers I studied he is still my favourite. So, I watched the documentary film avidly on Wednesday night.

Thursday 19th August dawned, a day I had been looking forward to for a long time. We were leaving for our 5 day holiday and anniversary trip to  La Rioja  - the famous wine growing area in Spain - to celebrate our 38th wedding anniversary which was yesterday, 21st August. Gosh, 38 years, that's a long time. We always celebrate our anniversary and in the past few years have gone on holiday to do so. The idea is to celebrate it every year as we really cannot know how many years we have left of good health. Inspired perhaps by Nellie, it was in La Rioja here that an idea formed in my head for next year's trip. The idea is to go on a long and slow road trip all the way to Iran. I have long wanted to visit Iran after receiving Iranian guests from Airbnb. They assured me the country was very safe but that may not be so for UK independent travelers or so I was told by someone in the know. If that is so we shall take his advice and head to Georgia and or Armenia instead Eladio loved the idea so watch this space. This is something very special to look forward to; the trip of our lifetime. So, thanks Nellie, for the inspiration. Maybe we will meet in Georgia. Imagine!

Hopefully next year's anniversary road trip - from Madrid to Teheran (6000 km 63 hours) and if that is not possible we shall go to Georgia and Armenia.

 

For now it was to be just a road trip in Spain. By about 10.30 on Thursday morning we were in the car and off. I had booked a table at one of my favourite places in Spain, the Hotel Landa Palace just outside Burgos, the lovely cathedral town you may have heard of. It was a good job I had as there were huge queues for the cafeteria and all the tables at the restaurant were booked. We sat down at a little table for two in the magnificent Castillian style dining room and we knew exactly what we would order; suckling lamb. It's the speciality of the house and typical in the Burgos area.

Lunch at Hotel Landa outside Burgos on our way to La Rioja. A great start to our anniversary trip. 

We did not have a starter and I resisted the desserts sharing a plate of fresh figs with Eladio.

After a long and delicious lunch we set off again. It was only an hour or so to our destination, Briñas. Briñas is a little village outside Haro, the supposed capital of the Rioja wine region. We had been there before in 2008 when I was organising a big summer party for employees and partners of my former company, Yoigo. We were to stay at the same hotel, one we loved and always vowed to go back to; the Hospedería Señoria de Briñas. It's a small 18th century palace turned into a hotel which is built with the local sandy coloured stone.

Our lovely hotel in Briñas - Hospedería Señorío de Briñas

We soon found it and easily parked outside. Check in was simple though complicated a bit by anti 

Covid rules - we had to say what we wanted for breakfast the next day as they cannot serve a buffet which was unfortunate but understandable.

We loved our large and quaint room. I unpacked and put everything away or out, like my Nespresso machine and travel kettle to make coffee in the morning (very important) or tea in the afternoon. Breakfast at this hotel isn't until 8.30 and I wake up early and the first thing I need is a coffee. Once I had done all that I went down to the hotel garden while my husband rested. It was charming and I had it all to myself.

The little garden belonging to the hotel. 

I read a silly old book on my kindle and felt at peace with the world. I also felt very content and happy to be away on this small but quite luxurious trip. We hadn't been to a hotel for possibly 2 years and I knew I was going to love my stay here.

At about 6.30 or so Eladio joined me and we both agreed it was time for a walk. We had missed our walks in Montrondo because of looking after Elliot and had missed them too in Madrid where it had been far too hot. La Rioja is in the north of Spain and the temperature is much more acceptable. We had remembered from our trip her 13 years ago that there was a pretty walk along the River Ebro to the town of Haro and we headed there. Oh what a beautiful path.

On the path along the River Ebro from Briñas to Haro

The path by the river led us to a big bridge Eladio suspected was made by the Romans - he usually knows. We loved it and took some photos there.

Photos taken on the bridge (Puente de Briñas) over the River Ebro as you enter Haro.

We crossed it to carry on our walk to Haro and the distance was far longer than we had calculated.Our walk took us across vineyards with rows and rows of the famous Rioja grape vines nearly ready for picking; perhaps next month. I was in awe of what I saw. Rioja wine is superb and there I was seeing the grapes ripening and soon to be picked and turned into the wonderful wine from this area. I learned on this trip that wine as we know it today was first made on a big scale in this area when an epidemic called "phylloxera"   ruined the crops in the Bordeaux region which has a similar climate to La Rioja. This happened in the late 19th century. Thus the French wine makers came over to Spain and started making their wine here. They showed the locals how to make it their way and thus wine making in La Rioja as we know it today took off. The rest is history. Although there are many wine making regions in Spain, Rioja is the most internationally recognised of all Spanish wines. 

Vineyards and grapes to be seen everywhere in the Rioja region

I was interrupted by more reservation enquiries and had to attend to them - there is no rest for the wicked. We walked past huge bodegas which looked so enticing. I knew some of the big names such as CUNE or Muga but not all of them. 

We headed to the old town which we vaguely remembered. It was teeming with people - a lot of tourists and some  of them - not many - from abroad - in the main square where we took more pictures and finally sat down at a bar which looked popular.

In the main square in Haro, the capital of Rioja wine

Would you believe we didn't order wine being in the wine capital? We didn't but Eladio had "mosto" a drink like wine but made without alcohol. It was dinner time and the tapas, renowned in La Rioja, looked enticing but we were just not hungry. Instead we decided to buy some fruit to have in our hotel room and went in search of the local supermarket. We got a few peaches, apricots and kiwis. Too tired to walk again we got a taxi to take us back to our hotel.

I think we were out of practice and my legs were killing me especially my right groin which sometimes gives me a problem. We ate our fruit, brushed our teeth and were soon lying in the great big bed watching the news about Afghanistan which was dire. I feel asleep soon, woke up at around 12 to answer another reservation enquiry and then slept till 6. I couldn't get up so early and made myself stay in bed until 7.30.

It was so cool the next morning but would get warmer as the day progressed. Breakfast wasn't served until 8.30 am so I spent the time writing this blog and catching up with the headlines. We had breakfast in the garden and it was lovely. Again I felt happy and at peace with the world.

Breakfast in the garden at our hotel in Briñas on the first morning here

We had plans for the first day of our anniversary trip. We were going to a bodega. We could have gone to any of the big ones but decided on a small one. Called Señorío de Líbano and located in the pretty little village of Sajazarra (try saying that), it had been recommended by the host of the Airbnb house we are going to today on the second part of our trip. She, in turn, had been inspired by a tweet from one of Spain's most famous journalists - Jordi Evole. He had been on holiday in Sajazarra and visited the bodega. I rang and got a slot for a visit starting at 11 am on Friday morning. As we drove the 20km or so past rows and rows of grape vines we spied what we thought were people picking the grapes - immigrants of course. I had to have a photo. I got it although the workers protested. I later heard they weren't picking the grapes but pruning the bushes. This is it.

Immigrants labouring the vineayards

We arrived in Sajazarra just on time for our visit and soon found the Bodega.

My husband at the entrance of the winery in Sajazarra on Friday

We were the first visitors of the day and got an exclusive visit around this small but beautiful and traditional winery. Señorío del Líbano makes wine for domestic use but most of it is exported; some to Israel as it also makes kosher wine - interesting. Wine here is made the traditional way with very little machinery involved. We were impressed.

At the end of the visit we were escorted to the winery terrace to sit and taste some of the wine - the most exciting part of the visit. It was midday and as neither of us usually drinks in the day or in between meals so we only drank cursory sips. We loved both the "crianza" and "reserva" and ended up buying a case of 12 bottles. 

Me trying the wine at the Señorio de Líbano winery in Sajazarra on Thursday morning. I was in my element. 

We then explored the village, considered one of the most beautiful in La Rioja and we were not disappointed.

The main square in Sajazarran considered one of the prettiest  villages in La Rioja

There were some enticing places to eat but we had a table booked in the even prettier town of Ezcaray where we had been before. We were to have lunch at Echaurren Tradición which was guaranteed to be good and it was. The hotel Echaurren has two restaurants, one run by the mother and one by the son. We have tried them both and they are exceptional. Celebrities and other people come from afar to stay at the Echauren hotel and enjoy its restaurants. Apparently Julio Iglesias has been many times. We love it too.

Lunch at the Echaurren restaurant in Ezcaray on Friday, a highlight of our anniversary trip

I chose light dishes and made up for it with the stupendous chocolate tart - wow. We later wandered down to the river Oja, the "Río Oja" to which Rioja owes its name for a walk along the river bank. We discovered this lovely walk last time we were here and were keen to see it again. It is beautiful just as Ezcaray is beautiful.

My husband by the River Oja in Ezcaray on Friday - rather dry it was. 

It was too hot for a long walk this time so we drove back to our hotel. At 5.30 I was due for the best massage I have ever had. I had booked one at the hotel spa and Lola was waiting for me in a delightful little massage parlour. She was just great and just what I needed. Lola found my back, shoulder and neck very very stiff. I knew that of course. Lola surmised that judging by the state of the muscles on my back that I was a very active and responsible type of person and a bit nervous too.  She may be right. I felt great after the massage and wandered down to the garden in my bath robe  - I felt completely at home at this little hotel. It was still too warm for an evening walk and Eladio and I read in the garden until about 8 pm. We then left the hotel to explore our village - Briñas. We spied the "Mirador de Rollo" (Rollo view point) which we hadn't seen before and loved it. It has views of the village, the river and  of course vineyards.

Eladio posing by the Mirador de Rollo in Briñas overlooking the Ebro river

We did walk along the river afterwards as that is the most obvious place to walk in Briñas. This time apart from swans and ducks we saw apple and fig trees, blackberries and other flora which we admired. Again we were not hungry that night and had a bit of fruit in our room instead.

Saturday 21st August dawned, the day of our 38th wedding anniversary, the reason for this trip. Ours has been and is a good marriage. To quote my friend Anne it is "as good as it gets" and I have no regrets. I love my partner to the moon and back and without him I think my life would never have been so stable or happy. Thank you Eladio. The years have passed indeed - 38 of them. This was us, two young things on our wedding day on 21st August 1983. I have to say I am glad Eladio never went  bald or developed a beer belly (hahahaha). 

On our wedding day 38 years ago

We would celebrate in the evening but felt happy and like young lovers all day. We decided to explore some of the pretty little villages we hadn't seen before and which had been recommended to us. We started with Briones which is a bit bigger than Briñas the village where we have been staying. It's not far and we loved it as soon as we saw it. The village is perched high up over the River Ebro with great views from the old walls which once must have surrounded it in the times of the wars between neighbouring Navarra and Castille before the country was united. That's why there are so many castles in Spain. Ah and because of the "Reconquista", the reconquering of Spain from the Moors who were finally expelled in 1492 (the year Colombus sailed the ocean blue - remember that from school?). So La Rioja may be all about wine but there is a lot of history too. We had our photo taken by the walls with amazing views of the river and vineyards which is one of the few photos of the two of us on this trip. 

Yesterday, the day of our 38th anniversary - 21st August -  saw us in Briones, another pretty little village in La Rioja. 

We also saw a bit of the old city where as in nearly all towns and cities in Spain there is a main square always called "plaza mayor". 

The Plaza Mayor in Briones. The house on the left is the oldest house in La Rioja. It's from the 16th century.

We are not really museum going people but our interest was piqued when we saw a sign saying "casa encantada" at the town hall, another beautiful palace and building. Casa Encantada means enchanted house and we only realised why when we had seen it all because we were enchanted with the visit. The house is a museum full of domestic items from the 19th and 20th century with exhibits of how houses used to be in the area. We loved it. Eladio having been brought up on a farm in the second half of the 20th century recognised many of the items. 

From Briones we drove to San Vicente de la Sonsierra, another town with lots of wineries. We had already seen one and bought enough wine so were more keen on seeing another pretty little village and we were not disappointed. We especially loved the "Plaza Mayor" with its wine motif spring with fountains of water in the shape of swans. Everyone was drinking from them and taking photos. I did too. 

In the main square of San Vicente, having a coffee

We had read that the main attraction of San Vicente was the castle and the views over the River Ebro - supposed to be one of the best in La Rioja. We got as far as the steps of the castle and as it was so hot we stayed below but still enjoyed the views which were as good as promised. We could see Briones from there where apparently  a peace treaty had been signed between the Kingdoms of  Navarra and Castille. It was signed in 1379 between Enrique II, King of Castille and Carlos II of Navarra. At the time San Vicente belonged to Navarra and Briones to Castille. Only the river separated the two kingdoms. It's hard to imagine that now. 

The view from the castle of San Vicente de Sonsierra of the River Ebro and the medieval bridge that separates it from Briones.

We only had time to visit one more village on our bucket list and decided it would be Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón, another medieval village but by a different river this time. The main attraction was another castle, the parish church and the river and river bank. We loved it immediately. 

In Cuzcurrita yesterday

My dear husband walking across the River Tirón yesterday in Cuzcurrita

Normally we would have had a slap up lunch somewhere good where I would have booked a table but we didn't as we would have a slap up dinner to celebrate our anniversary. So when we were hungry we went in search of the nearest bar to have tapas. Tapas in this area and in the Basque Country are more usually called "pinchos" (pintxos in the Basque Country). What they are is a sort of tapa on bread with a tooth pick like stick holding the topping to the bread. All the toppings are delicious. I went for prawns and croquettes and Eladio went for cod. Being in La Rioja we both had a glass of local red wine which tasted delicious. 

Sticking to our usual routine, we drove "home" - to the hotel to have a siesta and seek refuge from the heat. The air con was much appreciated and our bed very comfortable. I couldn't sleep though and after a while when I had rested, came down to the lovely little garden of which I have become very fond. Eladio later joined me and there we sat at one of the tables each of us with our laptop. I wondered if on our wedding day we had envisaged what our lives would be like together. We were only starting out then but very soon formed a family. The rest is not yet history. It is a life together well led with its ups and downs but built upon a rock of love.  

Eladio in the hotel garden yesterday afternoon.

Soon it was time to dress up for dinner. I had booked a table ages ago at the Palacio de Tondón which has the best restaurant in the village.It had good and bad reviews but we were not disappointed. The restaurant is right by the river where the hotel also has a wonderful terrace. 

The restaurant terrace by the river, a lovely spot

I only wished we could have eaten by the terrace which was much more romantic. The dining room was luxurious and well appointed  though so all was good. Before sitting down to our anniversary dinner we took some pics of us dressed up. Again I was wearing my little black dress which has held me in good stead for years now. Here we are by the river.

Posing on the terrace by the river just before dinner.

Our table had views of the river so it was well placed too.

We enjoyed every minute of our dinner. Everything was delicious. We chose to share dishes and had prawn carpaccio, a dish of vegetable and risotto. Dessert was crème brûlée made with maracuya. It was definitely one of our best anniversary dinners ever. Later we took our bottle of wine and bottle of water down to the terrace to enjoy the view.

We were in our room by 10 pm. Eladio got engrossed watching the final of the  triathlon world championship of all things and I read my book. I think we were asleep by about 11 pm both of us feeling happy and good with the world.

This morning I woke at 6 but stayed in bed until 7.30 and here I am now finishing this blog post in the hotel garden and waiting for Eladio to come down and for breakfast to be served. It will be our last breakfast at this divine little hotel. We are leaving today for Nájera - another pretty town in the area - where we have booked 2 nights at an Airbnb. I hope we like it as much as the Señorío de Briñas.

Now my friends I have come to the end of my tales of the week which I hope you have enjoyed reading about. Thus I shall leave you to publish this post and you will hear again from me next Sunday when we will be back in Madrid.

Cheers my friends until next Sunday,

Masha