El Cuetu, Sunday, 1st November, 2020
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| The goodbye photo taken just before Suzy left. |
Good morning everyone. How are you all and how has your week been? I have had the privilege of having my family with us this week in Asturias, staying at our lovely new house in El Cuetu, tucked away in the countryside between the beaches of Llanes and the Picos de Europa mountains. We came just after our first guests had left last Saturday. Andrew, a guest from London wrote this wonderful review. I couldn't have asked for a better one. This is it:
"Couldn’t recommend this beautiful home more. We were a couple working remotely and stayed for one month. Communication from Masha was excellent and we had loads of recommendations and help with any questions we had. The town is so gorgeous and perfectly situated between the gorgeous coastline (amazing beaches) and the picos de Europa mountains! Posada, the nearest big town, has everything you need (supermarkets, restaurants, cafes etc) but our favourite was our local Bar Tilar in next door Mere (the town right under El Cueto in The Valley) . The WiFi was brilliant and we had several lovely barbecues outside. We also rented mountain bikes recommended by Masha to explore the local area. It was so lovely to be a little off the beaten track and not hear or speak English for the month! Would recommend learning some before you come here but equally it’s an amazing opportunity to immerse yourself in the language fully! Definitely stay here if you want to truly experience Asturias and this incredibly authentic area of Spain!"
We ourselves were finally able to enjoy and share this treasure of a house, bought on the spur of the moment this summer, with our family; both girls, Elliot our grandson and his father, Miguel.
Last Sunday the Spanish government called for a state of emergency or alarm and imposed a nationwide curfew in Spain, except for the Canary Islands. This came after the number of infected rose to over 1 million cases the week before. The Government had to call for a state of alarm in order to give powers to the heads of the autonomous governments to impose the restrictions needed in the different regions in the country. Curfew times are different in different areas as are restrictions. This means that the state of alarm affects regions differently. This causes lots of confusion. Some areas are now in near total lock down and some aren't. Surprisingly for us Asturias announced on Monday that the whole province would be closed off from Wednesday. We could still stay here and leave when we want but will not be able to return here until lock down is lifted. We wondered if Castilla León, the autonomous community where our village, Montrondo, is, may also go into lock down and it did thwarting our plans to go there after our stay here. There is nothing worse than restrictions of the movement of people. It's a fundamental right and something we have never suffered before. As to curfew, well that doesn't bother me as we don't go out much at night and mostly go to bed early. But young people don't and I suppose it has been planned to stop the illegal parties being held all around the country. Many other countries in Europe have taken similar measures and some are already in lockdown or semi lockdown or are about to enter it; France, Belgium and the UK for example. Soon I think we will all be in lockdown like we were in March and we shall just have to stick it out. Today the figures worldwide are 46 million infected and the death toll is 1.2 million . If last week I was depressed and ranted on about coronavirus, this week I was able to sort of get away from it all being far from the capital and deep in the Asturian countryside. Being with my family helped a lot.
Last Sunday it rained but we dared the weather and went out as well equipped as we could be with rain coats, boots, umbrellas and warm clothes. We drove to the nearest seaside town, Llanes, the capital of this area of Asturias. The idea was to walk along the beautiful coastal walkway above Llanes called Paseo de San Pedro The sea was rough that day and the views as always stunning.
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| View of the sea and cliffs from the San Pedro walkway in Llanes last Sunday |
It got wetter and wetter though and we had to abandon the coastal walk and come down to the town from where we scuttled into the main streets in search of somewhere to have a cup of coffee. We hurried past the main beach, El Sablón, which looked so different to when we had been here in the summer. It was deserted.
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| The deserted Sablón beach in Llanes last Sunday |
We found just the place to have a coffee in one of the main squares, Plaza de Parres Sobrino where scenes from many films from many Spanish films appear. It's so quaint and lovely. We always go back there. In fact many films have been shot in the Llanes areas, especially in the streets of the old town and the beaches.
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| Plaza de Parres Sobrino where we had a coffee together last Sunday morning in Llanes |
In that same square there is a wonderful gourmet store selling the highest quality products of the area. Wow it is just amazing and I could spend hours in there and loads of money too. Miguel bought cheese and Oli bought cider and "cecina" (salted dried and thinly sliced beef). For the record the shop is called "Aramburu" and it is well worth a visit if you are ever in the area, I highly recommend it.
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| Miguel and Elliot at the Aramburu gourmet store in Llanes last Sunday |
There was a very interesting little boutique next door selling clothing at 25 euros each. I couldn't resist and bought a dark green padded waistcoat which I would wear most of this last week. I love it. We would have liked to stay in Llanes for lunch but I had brought so much cooked food we had to eat it so drove back home. We would go out for lunch another time.
I was pretty bushed for most of the day as I had slept so badly, if at all, the night before but managed to sleep for 20 minutes in front of the "telly" when the news was on. We were all waiting for Suzy to arrive. She came later than us as it was her last week in Spain before heading to Costa Rica and she wanted to say goodbye to her friends. Finally, though, she arrived here last Sunday at about 5pm and we were delighted to be reunited with her. She loved the house and I loved having her here. We were soon out on a walk again. It had stopped raining but was a bit blustery and of course as the clocks had gone back the day before, it was soon to get dark.
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| Elliot, Miguel, Oli and Suzy on our blustery walk in El Cueto last Sunday just after Suzy arrived. |
Suzy fell in love with the village and surroundings immediately. I was so glad she liked it.
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| The mountains around our village as seen on our walk last Sunday |
Soon the girls were making dinner. One of the biggest pleasures this week has been making meals together. It is so uniting and I treasure these moments. We all went to bed early as we were all tired, except for Elliot who has an aversion to falling asleep hahaha but after being given a full bottle of milk with cereal he finally settled down. Thankfully Suzy had brought me my sleeping pills which I had left behind in Madrid. Thus I got a good night's sleep. It was very restoring and I felt so much better on Monday morning when I woke up at the reasonable time of 6.50.
Monday was a day dedicated to the family. Suzy had to teach in the mornings so we only enjoyed her company after her lessons. Miguel and Olivia though were on holiday, a holiday my younger daughter was much in need of. That morning I went for a walk with them and the little baby who slept throughout. We walked from our village to Debodes about 2km away along a pretty country lane. It's quite a hilly lane and the walk down was fine but coming up was quite a struggle. We got as far as the entrance to Debodes and stopped by the bridge over the little river to take photos.
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| On our walk to Debodes on Monday morning |
We went dressed for rain but there was no need as soon the sun came out and Monday was mostly dry which was great for walks and being out and about. We came home to have coffee with Eladio. He had stayed behind as someone from a firm was coming to expect the house for woodworm. We discovered it in some of the beams in the attic and that has worried my husband ever since. It doesn't worry me that much as we have been assured it can be treated and the house will not fall down. We then waited for Suzy to finish her lessons before all going out for lunch. I used the time to take more photos - I take endless photos don't I? Well, I love this one of Oli, Miguel, Elliot and Eladio by our new house with its lovely name, "Casa del Cuetu".
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| Outside our new house in the sun on Monday |
By 1.30 Suzy had finished her lessons and we were able to leave. We had chosen to go a restaurant near Cangas de Onis in the Picos de Europa mountains. Casa Pedro in San Juan de Parres just 3km from Cangas had been recommended to me by a friend. He in turn is friends with the chef and part owner, Cristian. Eladio and I had been there in the summer, were very impressed and wanted to take the family there. Casa Pedro has a great menu of the day for just 12 or 18 euros each and both with lots of choice. The food is more than divine. Their "fabada", a typical Asturian bean soup with chorizo and black pudding had won 3rd prize for best fabada in the region. We parked nearby and had to leave little Pippa in the car as we would be eating inside and dogs are not allowed in restaurants in Spain. Here is Suzy carrying little Elliot in her arms walking to the restaurant. I love that picture.
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| Elliot being carried by Suzy on the walk from the car park to the restaurant on Monday |
Everyone loved Casa Pedro and we were greeted personally by Cristian. I was happy to hear from him that business was doing well considering the circumstances. That's probably because the food is so good.
Here is my family around the table in the dining room which was originally a granery (horreo).
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| Family lunch on Monday |
Of all the food we tried between us, sharing dishes, perhaps the best was the "pote asturiano" (Asturian stew) and the "fabada". Here are the close ups. As one friend remarked on FB, that was one "hearty meal". Yes it was and it was drowned down with the delicious local sparkling cider of which we had copious amounts and would result in a headache for me for the rest of the day, damn it.
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| Pote Asturiano |
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| Fabada |
After our delicious lunch we decided to visit Cangas de Onis. Eladio and I had been there in the summer and both girls too but a while ago. Our main aim was to have a photo by the famous Roman bridge there. And voilá our "in house" photographer, Miguel, captured the four of us with little Elliot. Lovely isn't it?
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The family - Roman bridge, Cangas de Onis on Monday
It was a bit late by then to do any more exploring of the area. It was also beginning to spit with rain so we went home. I had really wanted to visit the famous Lakes of Covadonga but we would have to wait another day for me to see them.
We came home to rest, have a cup of tea and lounge around till dinner time. Of course we were not hungry at all so opted for fruit and yoghurt. We were in bed early too; before 9 pm and Eladio and I tried to watch the news on my iPad in our bedroom but Elliot didn't think that was a good idea and interrupted us the whole time. That made me remember when our girls were small and how they hated us watching the news or reading the newspaper. One Sunday, years ago the paper didn't arrive or I thought it hadn't until weeks later I found it hidden under the cushions of a sofa. Little Suzy had hidden it there as a way of calling our attention and letting us know she didn't like us spending time reading. Oli used to hate us putting the radio on in the car to listen to the news. I find that pretty funny as she would turn out to be a journalist who is always avid for news. We are news freaks in our family, all of us except for Suzy. That I inherited from my father.
I slept quite well on Monday night. I was up at 6 am but then again I probably fell asleep at 10 pm, well before any of the curfews in Spain. While the numbers of Covid cases was rising higher and more restrictions were being imposed everywhere and even Asturias was about to be closed off to the rest of Spain, we continued our quiet life here, trying to keep our minds on other things and enjoy family time together. That morning saw us drive to a village nearby to go on the much recommended walk, "El Camin Encantau" (Enchanted pathway). Just before we left, the daily bread van arrived and Oli and Miguel bought some bread. They are great fans of bread hahahaha.
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| Buying bread from the daily bread van that came on Tuesday morning |
Here are Eladio and Olivia leaving the village holding little Elliot's hands. Isn't he adorable?
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| Eladio and Olivia walking with Elliot |
We got to the beginning of the path when it suddenly began to rain. Just there we found an enticing bar for refuge where we had a cup of coffee. In the fields next to the bar there were cows and hens which were of much interest to Elliot. This trip has been a new learning experience for him when it comes to farm animals.
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| Miguel and Elliot by the field with cows, calves and a bull - near the Camin Encantau |
Soon the rain stopped and off we went again. We were lucky with the weather that day as it was dry and warm from then on. We started on the lovely enchanted path walking along the riverside and enjoying the autumn colours but there came a point where it was steep and the terrain was unsuitable for Elliot's push chair so we had to turn back. We shall have to go another day as the path looks very attractive.
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| Sign post to the path |
With time on our hands before lunch and before Suzy finished her lessons, we decided to go to our nearest town, Posada de Llanes, for some provisions and to show the place to Oli and Miguel. I rather like Posada I have to say. We did some shopping at the local supermarket, Alimerka which included 12 bottles of local cider, the traditional drink of Asturias made from local apples. We then went into the ironmongers to get a few things for the house. That was when I persuaded Eladio to buy a cider pump needed to pour the cider properly to maintain its sparkle. Here in Asturias cider is poured from high. The verb to pour cider is "escanciar" and is a bit of an art. You have to pour it from high above the glass and unless you are an expert, it generally gets poured elsewhere too. That's why electric cider pumps are so useful. They are fun too. I wanted the one called "Isidrín" in the shape of a funny little man. I got my wish and later that evening we tried it out and had cider on our terrace. The cider here goes down nicely and has only 4 to 6 percent alcohol.
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| Eladio trying out our new cider pump |
I have never really known why cider has to be poured in this way in Asturias and learned that the reason is to "create a foamy layer as well as to release the aromas in the cider". Ah, and once the cider is poured the glass must be emptied in one go to enjoy the flavour and smell. So there you go, I finally had everything I needed to enjoy cider the Asturian way without having to pour it manually and get all wet and sticky. I love my little "Isidrin" pump.
While in Posada we also dropped into the wonderful butcher in the main square to buy some locally sourced steak. This shop sells lots of local produce too and we shall be going back again, I'm sure. On our way back to the car, Oli and I went into the bakery from where the bread is delivered to El Cuetu, our village. Oli couldn't resist the tuna fish pie and some pastries that she liked.
We were home just as Suzy finished her lessons and between us all set about getting our lunch ready. Miguel had made "fabada" the day before so no one needed to cook. It was very good especially as it was his first attempt at making this local flagship dish.
The afternoon was spent leisurely and outside as the weather was behaving and it was quite warm - about 19c. It was good quality time with the girls and with little Elliot.
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| Quality family time with Suzy and Elliot |
At one point a local man went passed us carrying a wheel barrow full of bread. He said it was for his goats and we asked to see them. Felipe, kindly obliged. So Oli, Miguel, Elliot and I went to see his goats. I can't resist four legged animals. He had kid goats too and after asking him, he handed me one of them. The poor thing squealed in my arms. I told the girls I was "kidding around" a good pun for a moment with goats don't you think hahahah? Oli took photos but she should have taken a video just for you to hear the poor dear creature squealing so loud. Kid goats sound like babies, it's so funny. I'm not sure what Elliot made of the goats but I loved my goat moment.
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| With one of the kid goats |
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| Some of the goats |
I only wished Felipe had more animals to show but he only has goats. I, as you can imagine, was in my element though especially with the new born kid goats. Oh how I love animals.
It was later in the evening, at dusk, that we sat on the chairs on our terrace and tried out the Isidrin pump. In just a few minutes we polished off one whole bottle of the lovely local cider. In the short video below you can see Eladio using the funny little device.
Cider is part of the local culture and Asturians are proud of their national drink. When in Asturias, drink the local natural cider and be sure to pour it from high or to use one of the newly introduced electric pumps, like little "Isidrin".
Soon it was dinner time and as usual we made a meal of it (sorry for the pun again). Then it was time for the news, interrupted as usual by little Elliot. He is most interested in the remote and in our phones which have to be hidden from him all the time. What he doesn't like is going to bed and I think we were all in bed before he finally fell asleep. The news that shocked me most that night was of a gala dinner held by the right wing online newspaper, El Español, where the crème de la crème of the political world in Spain gathered for what could only be called a gala dinner aka a great big party. Images emerged of top politicians from all the parties and top guns from the armed forces enjoying a night out, many of them not wearing masks. Criticism on social media was at boiling point. There was the Minister for health and other top politicians enjoying a party while the general public are not only not allowed parties but are not allowed to gather in groups larger than 6. They were not practicing what they preached and gave a dreadful example. I was indignant as was most of Spain.
Wednesday came, Suzy's last day with us. She was busy of course with her lessons until lunch. Busy too were a bunch of workmen who came to reinforce some of the woodworm beams in the attic. What a noise they made. Oli, Miguel, Elliot and I decided to go and visit the Playa de Póo, that beautiful beach with an unfortunate name. It was such a pity Suzy never got to see this lovely spot. One day though, she will. It was of course deserted and unfortunately the two bars there were closed so we didn't get our glass of cider sitting on the terrace and contemplating the amazing view of this little beach tucked into the mountains against a most gorgeous back drop of nature with the peaks behind it and the cliff above.
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| Miguel and Elliot - Playa de Póo on Wednesday morning |
As Eladio and I did last time we were there, we walked up the hill to see the cliffs and the spectacular views they command. I think Oli and Miguel were impressed. I just love that place, both the beach and the hilltop with its dramatic coastline. We took lots of photos. These are just some of them.
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| On the cliffs above the beach on Wednesday with Pippa (of course) |
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| Miguel, Elliot and Oli on the cliffs above the beach on Wednesday |
As we walked down the sun came out and we spent time on the beach. Elliot loved the sand. We will have to bring him back in the summer.
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| Oli, Miguel and little Elliot on the beach on Wednesday |
We were home on time for Suzy's last lunch with us. She was sad during the meal as we all were. We were very conscious that we won't see her again for a long time. She had a 4.5h drive home so had to leave shortly afterwards. She clung to me and we both cried. I told her I loved her and that she had my blessing to go but that she had broken my heart. Her idea is to live in Costa Rica. She left with a one way ticket so who knows how long it will be before we see her again. Before she left I asked Miguel to take one more family photo with her, one of the last in a long time. That's the photo I've chosen to illustrate this week's post; the goodbye photo. Sad isn't it? But she has her life and has to live it so we have to let her go.
We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging around until it was time for dinner. We felt the absence of Suzy around the table. We all went to bed early again. I was stunned to see it was 7.30 in the morning when I woke up on Thursday. Wow, that was a good night's sleep.
It was to be the sunniest day since we came to Asturias and we wanted to make the most of it. While we were having a jolly time, horrifying news came from Nice in France. The French were subjected once again to a terrible Islamist terrorist attack. That day 3 people were stabbed to death in a church by a young Tunisian branding a knife and shouting "Allahu Akbar". This comes after a French teacher, Samuel Paty was beheaded outside Paris after showing cartoons of Mohammed during a lesson on free speech. Response in many Muslim countries was met with protests and calls for boycotting French goods as well as criticism of the country's leader, Macron after he defended the right of a magazine to publish cartoons depicting the Prophet. How awful for an attack like to this to happen at all but for it to happen in a Catholic church makes it even more sinister.
Our quiet life continued here and that morning we went to Llanes for Oli and her family to enjoy this pearl of the Asturian coast with some sun as when went last Sunday it was pouring down. We parked, as we always do, by the town's main beach, "El Sablón". The sea was rough that day and it was exciting to see the waves crashing high against the cliffs. We had to have photos of course.
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| Miguel and Olivia by the cliffs in Llanes on Thursday morning |
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| Photo taken by Miguel of Eladio, Pippa and I by the sea in Llanes on Thursday morning |
From the lovely view points of the sea and cliffs we walked along the port into the town and across the bridge where countless small boats and yachts are harboured. It looked so picturesque.
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| The port in Llanes |
It was indeed a lovely day and soon we were drinking coffee in the sun on one of the terraces by the port. Elliot slept throughout which was a blessing for his parents (haha). We then stopped at the gourmet store, Aramburu, to buy more "cecina" (smoked beef) before heading home. Lunch that day was a splendid meal of steak and chips; the steak being of the very best quality and sourced locally. Asturias is famed for both its meat and fish. Feeling pretty heavy afterwards we all took a siesta. We were out again the afternoon just before it got dark, to explore the village paths which we still don't know. We took the one leading to the mountains and boy was the path steep. At least we had worked off some of our lunch, hahaha and shouldn't have been hungry for dinner but of course ended up eating something - my leftover soup.
We tried to watch the news, constantly interrupted by Elliot who keeps looking for the remote but only really caught the headlines which were, as usual, all about Covid and more restrictions everywhere. When is it going to end? This is one big nightmare isn't it? Eladio and I later watched a film about Churchill. I think it was the one called "His darkest hour". We had seen it before and it's well worth watching but not in Spanish. At some stage I fell asleep and ended up going to bed past midnight.
I was up at 6.30 or so on Friday morning. That day we were going to visit the Covadonga Lakes, the centre of the Picos de Europa national park, one of the most popular nature destinations in this country. I had always wanted to visit them but somehow in all these years living in Spain it just hadn't happened. Generally because of its popularity the road to the Lakes is closed off but we were lucky on Friday as it was one of the few days it wasn't.
We set off in brilliant sunshine and the drive took just under an hour. These glacial lakes are right at the top of a mountain road which is so steep it is often included in the Tour of Spain cycling race. It is here that Spain's most beloved cyclist, my friend, Pedro Delgado, gave so much joy to cycling fans. He knows the route like the back of his hand. But oh my what a steep and winding road. It's a 12 kilometre climb to the Lakes with gradients reaching 15% but seems like 24. We finally made it and were to see Lake Enol and Lake Ercina in glorious weather and with few people around - what a treat. It's not the lakes themselves that are anything special, its the backdrop of the mountains which makes the place look like a mini Switzerland. We parked in the almost empty car park near Lake Enol and admired the views of the valley from there.
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| View of the valley from the car park |
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| Lake Enol |
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| Walking from Lake Enol to Lake Ercina |
Oh boy the backdrop there was just breathtaking. What a beautiful place. How come this was my first time there after nearly 40 years living in Spain I wondered as I took in the scenery?
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| Lake Ercina |
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| Elevenses at midday at Bar María Rosa by Lake Ercina |
We then strolled down to Lake Ercina to enjoy the scenery and the weather I should say as by then we were in our shirt sleeves.
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| Miguel and Oli by Lake Ercina with the backdrop of the majestic Peaks of Europe |
By then Elliot had woken up and later played with the stones on the shore of the lake. He wanted to go in as he is very attracted to water hahaha.
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| Oli and Elliot by Lake Ercina |
One day he will be able to say he visited the Lakes of Covadonga when he was a baby:-) When we had had our fill of the place, we went in search of somewhere to have lunch on the drive back home. We found it at a restaurant/hotel, "Repelao" (Rey Pelayo - King Pelagius of Asturias) near the sanctuary of Covadonga where we went after lunch. I loved the hotel building - the Indiana Colonial style.
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| Restaurante Repelau where we stopped for lunch after our visit to the Lakes of Covadonga on Friday |
I also loved the delicious local "fabada" I chose from the menu of the day. It would keep me satisfied until dinner time, it's such a hearty stew.
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| Fabada again on Friday |
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| With Elliot in Covadonga |
It was late by then and time to drive home. Soon we were back in our cozy little house tired and happy after another lovely day out together.
We then had a mid morning coffee at the only bar on the beach. Probably there are more in the summer as yesterday Ribadasella in general was pretty empty, despite the glorious sunshine.
While we were having lunch, Suzy was at the airport checking in for her 4 pm flight to San José in Costa Rica. She rang us just before she left so say goodbye. As I watched her I wondered when she would next be back on Spanish soil. Later at about 4 am in the morning I got a text to say she had arrived safely. I only hope she keeps safe. God bless Suzy.
Just as it was getting dark in El Cuetu, we heard the door bell. Who could it be I thought? Amazingly it was a village family clad in Halloween gear asking for a trick or treat. We were most surprised. I'm not into Halloween but I thought the visit was charming.
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| Halloween in El Cuetu |
The day ended with another nice meal together and time trying to watch the news, thwarted by Elliot as usual until he fell asleep on his father's lap.
Saturday came and it was another sunny day. It was amazing to believe it was the last day of October and the temperature was as high as 24c. We made the most of Oli and Miguel's last day with us and went to Ribadasella, another lovely seaside town on the Asturian coast which is about half an hour's drive from here. We headed to the beach there, Santa Marina, to stroll along the shore.
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| The Santa Marina beach as seen on Saturday in Ribadasella |
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| The walk along the beach in Ribadasella yesterday |
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| Coffee by the beach yesterday |
It was such a lovely spot I asked our in house photographer, Miguel, to take a shot of Eladio and me and I got one. Later I posted it on social media commenting I was in love as well as in love with Asturias.
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| By the beach with my beloved Eladio yesterday in Ribadasella |
We then went in search for somewhere to have lunch and walked through the pretty little town. We came across a children's park where Elliot enjoyed the swings.
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| Elliot and his mother enjoying the swings yesterday in Ribadasella |
It was nearly 4 pm by the time we had finished and had strolled back to the car, destination home to El Cuetu. The rest of the afternoon was spent quietly. Suzy rang to say she had arrived ok in Costa Rica and was already settling into her apartment in Jaco near the beach there on the Pacific Ocean. That was good to know.
We learned from the news yesterday that the iconic Scottish actor, Sean Connery, who immortalised James Bond for us all on the big screen, had died aged 90 in the Bahamas. It was the end of an era for cinema and for Scotland's greatest actor ever. I read his obituary in The Times and was surprised to hear of his very humble beginnings. He was born in a one room house where his family had to share an outdoor toilet. He left school at the age of 13 and did various delivery type jobs. He later joined the Royal Navy but soon left to pursue a career as an actor. And what an actor he was. RIP Sean Connery, you will always be remembered.
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| The one and only James Bond |
Sunday came and I woke up today really late at nearly 8 am which is a first for me here. Today Oli and her little family will be leaving as she has to go back to work tomorrow. We shall miss them. We plan to spend just a few more days here and then go back to Madrid as we can't leave my father for too long even though he is well cared for by Lucy.
So that, my friends, is it for this week. I hope this blog finds you all well.
Cheers till next Sunday.
Masha
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