Sunday 10th July.
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| The family group of cousins in La Teilee last weekend |
Hi again,
This week I am
writing from Montrondo. We came on
Thursday and will be staying until Monday.
I just love the village in the summer with long days and nights. It gets dark here at 10.30pm, imagine.
I left off last Friday which was 1st July,
the start of many people’s holiday but also the centenary of the most famous
battle of the 1st World War, the Battle of the Somme which of course
is in France. The British and French
forces were supposed to break through the German lines. 600.000 British soldiers came out of their
trenches on 1st July and went over the top. On just the first day some 58.000 were
wounded and 19.000 killed, making it the bloodiest day in British military
history. Instead of giving up the battle
continued for 140 days. The battle was
not really won by either side with a final toll of 420.000 British casualties,
200.000 French and 500.000 Germans. The
only reward for this terrible effort was a six mile entry into German
territory.
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| A scene from the horrific Battle of the Somme |
I can hardly believe that it happened now 100 years
ago. May it never be forgotten.
If you read last week’s post you will know Vueling
cancelled my 12.20 flight to Paris that day where I was looking forward to
spending the first part of my trip with an afternoon in the city with my cousin
Masha. I spent most of the day at the
airport where I read about the Battle of the Somme to while away the time. I was also approached by lots of people who
had recognized me from the Undercover Boss programme I had featured in and
which they had broadcast again on Thursday night.
Thanks to Vueling’s inefficiency I didn’t get to Orly
until 21h. From there I took the shuttle
and then the Orly Val train to Paris getting off at Luxembourg where my dear
cousin Masha picked me up in her car.
Masha is the daughter of my Mother’s first cousin also
called Masha (confusing eh?). Masha senior was sister to my Mother’s other
cousins Nastushka (RIP) and Olga (still alive and aged 90 and living in
Paris). The 3 cousins were the daughters
of my maternal grandmother’s brother Sasha who fled to Paris to escape the
Russian Revolution. His sister, my
grandmother, Sophie Lieven nee Stachovich, moved to Bulgaria and contact was
sporadic. Last weekend I was to meet up
with Masha my cousin, her daughters Marie, Anna, Sophie and Elizabeth. But I was also to meet Marie Helene, the
daughter of Olga whom I had not seen since my first cousin Zuka’s (Sophie)
wedding in 1968 in Bradford when she married Bruce from Yorkshire. Masha, Marie Helene and I were Zuka’s
bridesmaids when we were aged 14, 9 and 11 respectively. We had not been together since then. So it really was to be “bridesmaids
revisited”.
For the occasion Zuka got
out her wedding album which I had never seen and we found an amazing photo of
us as bridesmaids. Also in the photo was
another bridesmaid Anabel from Bruce’s family and little Antony who is
Nastuska’s son; the little boy carrying the icon. I should add the family is Russian although
living in France and have kept their Orthodox roots. To their credit they all speak Russian
together and very often French. Their
English is perfect too as all the women in this family spent a year at a
boarding school in England when they were children. I felt at a huge disadvantage with hardly any
Russian and very rusty French.
Here is that photo. I am on the far left. My Aunty
Valya made those lovely dresses from turquoise silk and added fur to the collar
and cuffs. I loved them.
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| Bridesmaids in 1968. at Zuka's wedding to Bruce. From left to right: M (aged 11) , Masha (aged 14) Anabel (aged 19) and Marie Helene. (aged 9). At the front little Antony. |
I was also to meet Marie Helene’s lovely daughters
Helene (just graduated from Cambridge) and Catherine (studying at Warwick
University). Zuka and her Mother Aunty
Valya (the wife of my Mother’s youngest brother Nicky (Kolya – RIP) were
hosting a cousin reunion weekend at Zuka’s lovely country house in La Teillee
(South Western France 30 mins from Poitiers) to celebrate the visit of her
darling daughter Katty and children Luc, Sam and Ruby who moved to New Zealand
5 years ago. We call them our Kiwi
family and fell in love with them when they visited us in the 6 month caravan
trip around Europe before heading for New Zealand. I just adore them and there is an amazing
connection with Katty who for me feels more like a sister. She’s beautiful isn’t she?
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| My cousin Zuka (left), me and Katty her daughter who lives in New Zealand. |
After the explanations of the family to be reunited
last week, let me go back to my arrival in Paris. Masha picked me up and we went straight to
see her older daughter Marie who was visiting that weekend from her home in
Geneva. Unfortunately she and her
boyfriend would not be able to join us in La Teillee but I was keen to see
her. The last time I had seen Masha and
her daughters was in 2005 on one of my final business trips with Nokia. All 4 of them have developed into lovely
women.
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| With Marie and her Mother Masha in Paris on Friday 1st July |
We chatted until late and then it was time to go home
to Masha’s house in Clichy, just outside Paris.
On our way we picked up her youngest daughter Elizabeth. They have a
lovely home where they have lived since Masha married. I slept right through in
the comfortable bed in the quaint attic room.
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| My cousin Masha's unique house in Clichy Paris where I spent the first night of my weekend in France |
We were up early on Saturday morning to beat the
traffic. Masha drove us all the way to
La Teillee in her partner Serge’s car who came with us too (with the Sat Nav
giving instructions in Russian!!!). I
sat in the back with her daughters Sophie and Elizabeth. It was a great occasion to catch up on each
other’s lives since we last met. Masha’s
4th daughter Anna and her husband who now live in Perpignan would be
driving from there to La Taillee bringing with them loads of fresh summer
fruit. Thus I got to see all 4 of
Masha’s sweet daughters.
On the Russian side of my family I am known as “baby
Masha” to distinguish me from my Mother’s youngest sister Masha (RIP). During the trip and reunion everyone called
me “baby Masha” which I hadn’t heard for many years. Zuka was worried I wouldn’t like it; but no,
of course I did. It was lovely to be
called that again.
We arrived at Zuka’s amazing place, like heaven on
earth – a restored old farm house in the middle of the French countryside with
lots of land. The reunion was so
emotional but happy too. All through the
weekend I kept wishing my Mother could be there to see us. I went from laughing
out loud at one moment to crying my eyes out the next. Zuka had an amazing gift
in store for me. In 1993 a friend of
mine (Amanda’s ex-husband Richard) had taped my Mother telling about the family
flight from Russia in 1919 and all that happened afterwards. She gave the tapes to Zuka who was to
transcribe them. However she lost them
only to find them recently. The gift was
the found tapes; all 12 of them. Apart
from hearing the complete story (I know most of it but only in parts) I was to
hear my Mother’s voice again and of course these tapes are fundamental to the
biography I want to write when I retire. Unfortunately when I got home and
played them – it was the first thing I did – the quality was terrible and I
could hardly hear my Mother’s voice. I was so disappointed. I have some hope
though that a sound technician can restore them and have given them to an
expert to see what can be done. Cross
your fingers.
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| The tapes of an interview with my Mother on her memories of the family's flight from Russia and what happened afterwards - finally in my hands. |
I was so happy to see everyone and of course photos
were in order immediately. It was amazing to be reunited. It was also wonderful to see and hug Katty’s
adorable children; Luc aged 14, little Sam aged 12 and darling Ruby aged
6.
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| With Katty's children. From left to right: Sam aged 12, Luc aged 13 and little Ruby aged 6. I just adore them. |
They are such wonderful kids; well behaved, fun to be
with, inquisitive and positive and a joy to be with. Ruby and I fell in love
all over again and she would follow me around and write me little letters
telling me how pretty or awesome I was.
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| With little Ruby at my favourite spot in Zuka's garden |
Katty, Zuka and Aunty Valya had prepared an amazing
spread and soon we sat down to eat. Here
we are at the table at our first meal together last weekend.
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| The family reunion lunch in La Taillee |
It was pure joy to be part of the
Anglo-Franco-Russian-“Kiwi” family reunion and I hope it won’t be the
last. We have all agreed we must do it
again next year. I would love to entertain them all at home in Madrid.
The afternoon was spent talking together; the kids
playing badminton and then some of us went for a walk in the beautiful
countryside. Zuka took us to a nearby
Druids’ seat made of stone in the forest which is where at some time
Protestants who were not allowed to practice their religion would come to pray.
It was the perfect setting for the picture below which I have called “cousins
in the forest”.
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| Cousins in the forest |
On our return, I got the walkers together with those
who stayed behind to take some group photos.
First I arranged for a photo of the “Bride” Zuka and her bridesmaids,
Masha, Marie Helene and myself which you can see below.
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| Three of Zuka's bridesmaids reunited 48 years later. From left to right: Me, Masha, Zuka and Marie Helene |
And here is a collage of the photo in 1968 and the
photo last Saturday, 48 years later! Wow.
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| The before and after photo - 48 years separates the two. photos. Indeed it was "bridesmaids revisited" |
Then we had a group photo of everyone. For the
occasion Marie Helene had brought straw hats with the French flag on them
hahaha. That is the photo I have chosen
to illustrate this week’s post.
Meanwhile in Nicaragua, Suzy and her group of friends
had moved from Popoyo to Playa Maderas. They were staying at their own villa
which looks just amazing, don’t you think?
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| Suzy at Playa Maderas in Nicaragua this week |
Unfortunately I began to have a headache which turned
into a full blown migraine and all I could do was go to bed, missing dinner
with my cousins, and get through the night as best I could. It was one of the most awful nights ever and
I prefer to erase the memory of it from my mind. Thankfully I woke up on Sunday morning
feeling better although rather washed out.
My headache hadn’t completely gone and would linger on until the next
day but at least I could now take full part in all the activities.
After a wonderful breakfast of fresh croissants and
French bread – their baguette is the best in the world – we had a quiet and
relaxed morning. It was on Sunday
morning that Marie Helene introduced us to the game of Mölkky which originates
from Finland. It is quite the rage in
France and there is even a world championship.
According to Wikipedia it was invented no so long ago, in 1996.
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| Being introduced to the game "Mölkky" in France last weekend. |
It’s a game similar to boules and skittles. Really it is a throwing game to knock the
pins down but the rules are completely different. We spent most of the morning playing. I loved it as an outdoor game for people of
all ages. There and then I ordered my
own game on Amazon and it was waiting for me when I got back on Monday. I can’t wait to play in Montrondo with all
the family.
It was Marie Helene who also introduced some of us to
croquet; having brought the game for Zuka.
I hadn’t played it since I was a kid and it was such fun. Katty was my partner and we lost the first
round dismally but went back to win in the second round. It was great fun.
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| Playing croquet in France. Loved it. |
As the afternoon progressed people began to leave
(Masha and Serge left on Saturday unfortunately) but just before that I went
for a walk with some of the younger generation.
They wanted to learn to whistle like I can with my fingers and we made a
lot of noise on the quiet country roads.
I treasure those moments of fun with the family. Everyone was to leave
afterwards and only I remained with Aunty Valya, Zuka, Katty and the kids. I had some quality time with all three. Here I am with my Aunt who has just turned 91
and seems eternal as she in great health and spirit. She kept telling me she could see my Mother
in me. I take that as a compliment.
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| With my dear Aunty Valya, the wife of my Mother's youngest brother Nicky (Kolya). |
As we were finishing dinner she brought out a book in
French about Russian nannies to Russian aristocratic families.
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| The book about nannies to Russian aristocrats where a chapter was written by my Mother about her nanny "Nashka" or "Nashinka". |
My Mother of course; Mrs. Lloyd as I knew here, but
born “Princesse Sérénissime Hélêne Andreievna Lieven” had a nanny; “Nashinka”
who practically brought her up and who had fled Russia in 1920 with the family to take
care of the children. My Mother adored
her. Amazingly I met her years later in
Biarritz when she was working for the Romanov family. In that book there is a chapter about my
Mother’s nanny and I couldn’t believe my eyes and ears when Aunty Valya told me
it had been written by my Mother for the author. Here is the page and a half she wrote in
French for that book.
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| The chapter written by my Mother in the book about nannies to Russian aristocrats. I wept buckets of tears as I read it. |
I read it out in my faltering French and what I didn’t
understand my Aunt and cousin translated.
All I could do was cry and cry and cry, for my Mother who wasn’t there
and for my Mother whose own Mother never really loved her and whose darling
nanny, Nashinkaka, brought her up and looked after her as if she were her own
daughter; the child she herself never had. It truly was an emotional end to a
unique weekend. I only wish my girls could have been there too.
As we were talking the kids were watching France play
plucky Iceland in the quarter finals of the Uefa Euro Cup at Le Stade de
France. It ended 5-2 in favour of the
French despite the Iceland fans’ war like Viking chant which had frightened off
the Brits. But wow how the Icelandic team, fans and country hit the news with
their new football prowess. I was to see
some of the fans at Charles de Gaulle airport on my way back.
Sunday night was important in our lives too as it was
the night both Olivia and Miguel moved into their new flat in Mirasierra on the
outskirts of Madrid. Here is a photo of
the half finished flat. I do hope they
will be happy there and I’m sure they will.
Love you bothJ
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| The lounge in Ol and Miguel's new flat - nearly finished. |
Monday hailed the end of the incredible and emotional
and happy reunion. Katty and Zuka drove
me to Poitiers to catch the 9.15 TGV (high speed train). There was time for a
quick café au lait together before I boarded it. I arrived at Charles de Gaulle at 11.45. The
TGV was a far cry from the dirty old green French trains I knew so well from
all my inter rail journeys in the 1970s!
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| My TGV arrrivng at Charles de Gaulle airport on Monday |
I had plenty of time on arrival but had planned my
journey thus because it is such a huge and bewildering airport. There was some scant security going into the
departure hall of Terminal 3 but not enough I thought. During my time there thoughts of suicide bomber
terrorists crossed my mind more than once.
Luckily nothing happened. I had a
lovely lunch at Pret a Manger; a prawn sandwich and fruit washed down by
coconut water which I adore. I also bought lots of chocolates and foie to take
home; so naughty but nice hahaha.
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| My yummy Pret a Manger lunch at the airport on Monday |
And there they were, many of the Icelandic football
fans, all dressed in the colours of their flag.
I congratulated many of them and sat next to this delightful young
couple who were so proud of their country.
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| Two Icelandic fans I met at the airport on Monday |
And then, out of nowhere and to everyone’s surprise
they all burst into the now famous Icelandic Viking Chant. Everyone in the terminal clapped, myself
included. When the team arrived back in Reykjavik, it seemed the whole country was there to greet the players.
This was the welcoming they got; an amazing Viking Chant which has now become
pretty famous thanks to their success in the Uefa Euro Cup this year. You can
see it for yourselves here on this link.
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| What a welcome the Icelanders gave their football team once back in Iceland. Here is a photo of the fans doing their now famous Viking Chant. |
My plane left one hour late and during the delay I
prayed the Vueling flight would not be cancelled as it was on the way out. Luckily it took off and everything went
fine. Dear Eladio was waiting for me at
the airport outside where the taxis are. I had forgotten just how hot it was in
Madrid compared to Paris and walking outside felt like walking into a sauna.
It was lovely to be home to see my Father, Salud and
the dogs but so strange that Olivia wasn’t there. So I rang her and we had a long chat and
agreed we would go over to their flat on Wednesday night for dinner.
Tuesday was back to orderly home life. I was in need of a fast that day after all the
food in France. On the subject of food Eladio hadn’t done the food shopping so
off we went to get 2 huge trolleys filled to the brim from Mercadona. I had to
go to our local shopping centre later, Centro Oeste. The sales were on and I bought 5 or 6
t-shirts, socks and espadrilles for Eladio. He never wants new clothes but I
like him to look good. Here he is in one
of the t-shirts which match the shoes.
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| Eladio's new look |
On Wednesday my beautiful game of Mölkky arrived. That spurred me on to buy a set of badminton;
both to be taken to Montrondo to play with the family in the summer.
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| My mölkky game duly arrived from Amazon on Monday |
I had a lunch appointment that day with my events
agency (QuintaEsencia) team; the three sisters Cris, Bea and Gloria as well as
Miguel. It was at El Quënco de Pepa on
the terrace; a place I love so much. We
went there recently with our American friends Sue and Gary. Here we are all
together at lunch that day.
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| Lunch on Wednesday with my events team |
We were having dinner at Oli and Miguel’s new flat
that evening but first we had to pick up Oli from Cuatro Vientos where she was doing
a live TV report on a plane that had crashed.
As a surprise I took Pippa along and they were delighted to be together
again.
We loved their flat which is nearly completely ready
and we had a great dinner around their TV table. The dining room chairs have not yet been
delivered.
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| Dinner at Oli and Miguel's new flat on Wednesday night. |
Later Oli and I washed up together in her kitchen.
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| Oli in the kitchen of her new flat. |
I was happy to see them settled in and content. The evening was great but it was a funny
feeling Oli being there and not at home which seems so empty now.
On Thursday morning we were off to Montrondo. I was up at 6.45 and we left early at 9.15.
Of course we had the usual pit stop at Rueda for a glass of local white wine
and plate of ham.
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| Elado in Rueda on our way to Montrondo this week |
We got to sunny Montrondo at 1.30. We were expecting to see Dolores, José
Antonio and my Mother-in-law, but got a lovely surprise to find that their
daughter Sara was there with her 4 month old baby Lucas who we had never
met. They invited us for lunch.
In the afternoon the men set about cutting the grass
on the plot of land behind our houses called “La Era”. Here is my husband using his father’s scythe
very professionally.
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| Eladio cutting the grass with a scythe on our arrival in Montrondo |
I went for a walk that night with Dolores and
Manolita. We didn’t get back until about
11 when it was still just light. Thus
dinner was very late. Thankfully Eladio was entertained watching France beat
Germany in the Euro Cup semi-finals. The final will now be between Portugal and
France. Place your bets ladies and
gentlemen. Later Eladio and I continued watching a series on Netflix we are
addicted to: “Sin Identidad” (without identity) about stolen babies in the 60’s
and 70’s in Spain.
Meanwhile Suzy’s adventures continued in
Nicaragua. That day the group had
travelled to the volcanic island of Omotepe and would be staying at the Eco
Lodge in the middle of the jungle.
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| The jungle in Omotope in Nicaragua |
On Friday I was up at 06.40. I got work out of the way before breakfast. Then it was time for an early walk to Murias
and back with Pippa.
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| Me on my walk to Murias on the old path on Friday morning |
The village looked beautiful in all its summer glory.
It really comes alive at this time of life.
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| Montrondo in summer is how I like it best |
That morning I was to drive Dolores to Villablino, the
nearest town from here. Dolores always
goes to the market there on Fridays and it was nice to accompany her. Here she
is buying fruit.
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| My sister-in-law Dolores buying fruit at the market in Villablino on Friday |
I had a quick look at the stalls and the produce on
sale. For the record, I bought a home
made vegetable and meat pie and local cherries.
I also bought a pair of white sneakers and snapped up the t-shirt in the
picture below. It’s me isn’t it? In fact
I’m wearing it now.
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| The t-shirt I just had to have at one of the market stalls in Villablino on Friday |
We were home for lunch and a siesta or rather lunch
and some more work in my case. In the
early evening we inaugurated the terrace behind our house as we were having
people for tea. My mother-in-law’s first
cousin Dolores was coming and I just had to have them both on camera. Dolores
hadn’t visited her native village for a long time and she is very well loved
here. I had to pass on my condolences
for the death of her sweet sister Eva last year but more painfully on the death
of one of her sons just before that. Very
sad!
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| My mother-in-law Ernestina aged 94 with her first cousin Dolores aged 90 |
Dolores was accompanied by Pacita (Paz), the mother of
J.M., the girls’ friend from childhood here in the holidays in the
village. And here is the table of guests
on Friday afternoon on our newly opened summer terrace.
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| Afternoon tea in Montrondo |
As the afternoon progressed, Pili, Eladio’s youngest
sister, arrived as did Isidro, his youngest brother, his wife Yoli and older
daughter Laura. The latter brought with
them their lovely new puppy, Marly.
Pippa was delighted with Marly’s company just as she was when they met
last time in Montrondo.
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| Pippa and Marley get on famously |
In the meantime Oli and Miguel were enjoying being in
Valencia. They would have been to the beach, eaten paella and here in this
photo she sent me, they are drinking “horchata”.
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| Oli and Miguel in Valencia this weekend |
Friday night was Suzy’s last night in Nicaragua. From
Playa Maderas they had travelled to the volcanic island of Omotepe on Wednesday
night. This is the photo she sent of
some of the group in Omotepe.
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| Suzy and the group in Omotepe Nicaragua this week. |
We had a quick whatsapp call that night. It was super to hear her voice or what was
left of it hahaha. She told me the whole
experience had been like Big Brother hahaha. They even found a scorpion under
her bed as of course they were in the jungle.
She told me she had been on a zip line and I was happy to hear about
it afterwards rather than before. It was
with a heavy heart that she started her return journey to London with Anita on
Saturday. They have had a marvelous time
from all accounts and the group got on famously together.
Yesterday Saturday, I was up at 7.15 with plenty of
time to work, make breakfast and prepare the lunch of “cocido madrileño”
followed by apple crumble.
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| The apple crumble I made on Saturday in Montrondo |
After that I went off with Pippa for a long walk to
Senra and back. It got hotter and hotter I must say but I loved the sounds and
sights of summer. I was accompanied by
the music of the river flowing and the birds singing. My favourite path looked so leafy and it was
a delight to walk on as it is all in the shade.
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| My favourite path in Montrondo |
One of the typical summer sights of course is the
villagers cutting the grass in the fields to make hay stacks. Here the hay
stacks are round.
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| Cutting grass in one of the fields in Murias de Paredes. A typical scene here at this time of year. |
In Senra I was joined for coffee by Pili and her
husband and Isidro and his family. Only
Pippa and I walked home and my how hot it was.
Thankfully we could drink water on the way from the streams in Murias
and on the old path. I came home to do
some more work, hang out the laundry and finish making the lunch.
In the afternoon the men continued cutting grass and
also some of the great big flint stones at the back of the house whilst I read
my book (Ken Follett) and had a little siesta. They were both exhausted afterwards. I spent the rest of the afternoon with Pili and with Roberto's daughters Lidia and Diana and their Mother Ana. I introduced them to Mölkky and we played twice. I now look forward to playing again today and all through the summer. Indeed it is a great game. Many thanks Marie Helene for introducing me to it.
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| Playing Mölkky in Montrondo |
And today is Sunday and it will be another scorcher, even here in Montrondo.
Next week will be quiet. I hope I will see Olivia. I will be busy at work in the coming days preparing for the communication of the company's Q2 financial results.
I will leave you now to get on with Sunday in Montrondo. No doubt it will be a relaxing family day.
Cheers then my friends until next time,
Masha
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