Olivia reporting from Valencia, 40 years of Inter rail and my journey
across Europe in 1973, good news for Suzy, missing the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee
and other stories.
Being interviewed by TVE1 on Monday at home about my Inter Rail journey in the 70's |
Hello again my
friends,
The week has
been packed with activity and there are lots of things to tell you. I haven’t been away anywhere, it has been a
fairly quiet week but all in all a good week for all.
Last Sunday,
Olivia went off to Valencia where she would be reporting every day of the week
on local events. She was part of a team
she had great fun with and at one point posted on Facebook that she wouldn’t
mind living in that part of the world.
Olivia and her team having a bit of fun in Valencia. |
As most
mothers, I am at my happiest when my girls are happy and this week was a good
week for both of them, especially for Suzy as you will hear later.
Olivia looking spectacular with the team in Valencia this week |
Unfortunately
I missed nearly all of Oli’s live reporting because I was either way at the
office or in meetings in town. Determined
to see at least one appearance, I saw her on Friday in a place called Paterna
where she reported on a unique story of a group of unemployed people who had
started from scratch, using old fashioned techniques to make and sell constructions
out of rope and clay, originally used to make “barracas”. That brought me right back to my University
classes at Nottingham in the 70’s where Dr. Cardwell would lecture on the
Valencian author Blasco Ibañez who wrote the famous novels “La Barraca” and
“Cañas y Barro”.
A typical Valencian "barraca" |
On Monday I
was taken back again to my past, but this time for another reason. A friend of Olivia’s and ex colleague, María,
was preparing a report for the TVE1 news programme about the 40th
anniversary of Inter Rail scheduled to be broadcast on 6th June.
María was looking for people who had been on Inter Rail in its early years to
share their experiences in the special report.
When Oli asked me if I knew anyone who had done Inter Rail at the
beginning I said that of course I had.
And that was how I suddenly found myself being interviewed at home by
the TVE1 crew that very afternoon.
I remember
that trip very vividly although I still can’t remember whether it happened in
1973 or 1974. My Father, who has the
most amazing memory, swears it was 1974 so it probably was. My brother George, went in the inaugural year
in 1972 when a month’s trip to visit 21 countries in Europe cost just 25
pounds. When I went it cost 33 pounds
and was the cheapest way to discover Europe, although in those days you
couldn’t visit any of the Iron Curtain countries, something I would have loved
to have done. There were very few low cost airlines in those days, so most
young people travelled by train. Inter
Rail was a real revolution for “back packers”, the ticket being actually
cheaper than a return ticket from London to any European destination. So in the following years when I travelled to
Spain in the “Callosa Days”, I would often just buy an inter rail ticket and use
it only to travel to Alicante and back to Yorkshire. Later we would travel by bus to Alicante or
in my Aunt’s battered old cars but, that’s another story.
The trip I
took in 1973 or 1974 is ingrained in my memory forever as the most adventurous
journey I had taken until then. It was
difficult at just 16 to find other friends to come with me. Most of their parents wouldn’t let them hop
around Europe but my parents who were true globe trotters and from whom I had
inherited my travel bug, were much more permissive. I finally found someone to come with me, Tim
M, a pupil of my Father’s at Bradford Grammar School. He was then a first year student of German
and Scandinavian languages at Surrey University, so was very keen to travel to
Scandinavia which is what we did. He was
not my ideal travel companion, as it later transpired he was rather keen on me
and I wasn’t one bit interested. That
would become a problem when we had to share rooms in Lapland, to save money.
We started off
in London at Victoria station, that wonderful old vibrant station which is the
gateway to Europe. From there we made
our way to Dover from where we took the ferry to Calais, a journey I made
countless times in my youth. From Calais
of course we travelled to Paris on one of the old green SNCF trains past
Amiens. We would arrive at Gare du Nord,
the gateway from France to England.
Paris stations were always teeming with North African immigrants and I
found myself surrounded by them as if I was a jar of jam and they were flies. I suppose being blonde and young was the
reason. But I could never get rid of
them and yet didn’t realize the danger, although I had heard, of course, of the
“white slave trade”. At Gare du Nord I
always remember enjoying a wonderful French breakfast of café au lait with the
best croissants in the world, or so I thought.
From Gare du Nord, in order to take a train to the north of Europe, we
would take the metro to Gare Austerlitz, in memory, of course of the famous
Napoleonic battle. Just being there
brought back memories of my history lessons with my adored Miss. Scorer at St.
Joseph’s college. Here we would board
the train to Hamburg, the famous German port where sailors would get off, get
drunk and visit the red light district, the Reeperbahn which is exactly what we
did when we got there, that is visit the district but not get drunk. What we did do of course was try out the
hamburgers which I suppose originally came from this German town.
To economise,
we did not spend much money on accommodation and most nights actually slept on
the trains. I remember getting on the
French and later the Spanish trains at the beginning of the journey and often
not finding a seat and having to settle for the corridor, something which is
probably unthinkable today. The worst
spot was next to the toilets, which was ok at the beginning of the journey but
a nightmare at the end, because of the smell.
Needless to say the German and Scandinavian trains were much more
civilized. Today, Spanish trains are
probably the best in Europe but at the time were probably the worst and the
slowest. As I told Maria in my interview
with TVE, I remember the train journey from Barcelona to Alicante taking most
of the night and feeling longer than the journey throughout Scandinavia. There were no high speed trains at the time
in Spain but I do remember trying to board an attractive looking Talgo train at
the Barcelona Sants station, only to be pushed off it not very gently as the
“better trains” were not included in the Inter Rail pass. That was a bit of a hard lesson.
France was
dirtier in those days than England, although perhaps today, it is the other way
round. However Spain was much dirtier
and I vividly remember the difference of the stations at the border. On the French side the stations were quite
pretty with flowers on the platform.
However as soon as you entered the Spanish station on the other side of
the border, there would be hundreds of flies and rather nasty smells. Today both countries are much cleaner.
I remember
taking about 100 pounds with me for the whole trip, money I think I had earned
working at a factory in Bradford for a month after school broke up. There was little money for accommodation
which is why we mostly slept on the trains and not much for food either. Of course we didn’t go to restaurants in
those days, the alternative being to eat street food. So for most of the journey our meals were
made up of hamburgers or hot dogs bought at kiosks which were cheap and very
tasty.
From Hamburg
we made our way to wonderful Copenhagen where we woke up at a very clean
station and where I was able to have a shower for an awful amount of kroners
for me at the time. I showed María the
photos of the trip which are in a very old album of mine and there is only one single
photo of me, the rest being of my companion, scenery, trains and the
Scandinavian capitals. It is of me
outside the Tivoli Gardens. And here it
is, taken 39 years ago.
Outside the Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen during my Inter Rail trip in the 70's |
I loved
Scandinavia, as I always have and funnily enough in my professional life I have
been very attached to both Finland when I worked for Nokia as I am today to
Stockholm because of my job with Yoigo.
Scandinavia, I should mention, holds an even bigger attraction for my
Father who actually studied Scandinavian languages at Cambridge University. Maybe I inherited the love of this area of
Europe from him. But actually I think it is more to do with the merit of these
countries themselves, so clean, so green, so civilized, so organized and so
ahead of the times. I well remember in
my inter rail trip tasting my first McDonalds meal in Stockholm. Having never been to one, I remember being
surprised at the system of ordering and also thought the meal was rather
expensive. I also remember vividly being
surprised by finding “sex shops” there which I had never seen in prude England.
We travelled
even further north and from Copenhagen made our way to Sweden where we actually
travelled right to the north to Lapland.
Here I remember being eaten alive by mosquitos, including both
eyes. So bad were my eyes I had to visit
a hospital in Stockholm and the image of that immaculately clean and white
hospital where doctors and nurses moved around on skates, has remained in my
memory forever. It was like being in
another world. From Sweden we travelled
to Norway and visited the fjords and I think made our way to Bergen. We were joined by a young American traveler whose
name I cannot remember. Throughout our
journey we made new friends and met people from all over the world, but funnily
enough no Spaniards. When Maria asked me if I had met Spaniards, I answered
truthfully that I hadn’t. Thinking back,
this is probably because young Spaniards in those days had fewer opportunities
than their counterparts from the better off countries in Western Europe. Not to forget either, that under Franco’s
regime it was not very easy to travel.
So no, there were no Spaniards at the time, but plenty of Germans,
Scandinavians, Brits and Americans of course.
Had it been
today, I would not only know the American boy’s name, but we would be in
contact forever afterwards on Facebook and whatsapp. Also we would probably have been updating our
statuses on both throughout the journey.
But in 1973 affairs were very different.
There were no mobile phones, no internet and of course no social media,
so when you met someone, you would maybe exchange addresses and write for a
while but afterwards would lose contact.
In those days we would send letters and post cards and call our parents
very occasionally on the phone. Of
course a long distance call would usually be, in my case, by “reversed
charges”, not always easy to manage when making a long distance call. To think we complain today that making phone
calls is expensive, when it was much more so in the 70’s.
From Norway,
my only ever visit to that lovely country, we decided to go south and travel
all the way to Spain, to Callosa, the village where my parents bought a house
in 1973. That was one long trip,
especially from the French boarder all the way to Alicante. You can read more about our experiences of
the beginnings of our Spanish adventure if you look up “Callosa Days” in my
blog.
The experience
of being interviewed on Monday is one I will remember for a long time as I
thoroughly enjoyed it. Funnily enough
when the report, including my interview, is broadcast on 6th June I will find
myself in Copenhagen for an international meeting. Luckily I will be able to watch it via
streaming as these days most TV news is available online, something I would
never ever have dreamed of when I first took that inter rail trip back in the
70’s.
On Tuesday,
over lunch with my dear friends Julio and Fátima, to celebrate Julio’s
birthday, I told them about my TV experience.
Later my friend Sandra commented on my post about the interview on FB
that I was slowly getting on the air, to which I replied, it was part of my
personal branding. In a way I suppose it
was.
My friends Fátima and Julio at lunch on Tuesday |
Friday was
this week’s highlight by far. That was
the day Yoigo launched its new revolutionary tariffs in the shops and they have
been buzzing ever since. Friday, was
also very important for Suzy. It was the
day her contract with Aramark was extended for another 18 months. But even more important is that she has been
promoted and has become a “front line manager”.
Her boss told her she had worked hard to deserve the promotion. Well done Suzy, I am very proud of you. That day, I suppose, to celebrate Suzy went
off to spend the weekend at our flat in Santa Pola. She was joined by Elena and her newfound
Russian friends. I haven’t heard much so
far, but imagine they will be spending most of the time at the beach as the
weather is marvelous.
On Friday
night, Olivia returned, happy from her week’s reporting in Valencia. I spent most of Saturday with her and we went
shopping to nearby shopping centres where I swear, this time, I didn’t buy
anything. Lunch was a family affair and
we were joined by Juli. The afternoon
was spent in a relaxed way by the pool, where we tend to spend most afternoons,
reading, or in my case working with my computer.
Because it is
so hot, our walks now take place after dinner.
I love the evening walks in June when the days are so long. In fact I took a photo of the view from our
room one night last week to show just how light it is at 10 o’clock at
night. When we come back, we sit by the
pool where most nights I have taken a bathe to cool off after what we call our “power
walk”. The dogs lie at our feet, generally
flat out after the exertion too.
The view from our room one night last week at 10pm at night, amazingly light. |
Today, Sunday,
will be quiet also. Today is one of
those days I would love to be in England.
You are probably wondering why.
Well, I am missing the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee festivities. If I lived in England, I would be watching
the Thames Diamond Jubilee Pageant where a flotilla of more than 1000 boats will
sail seven miles from Albert Bridge to the majestic Tower Bridge. I would also
probably be taking part in one of the many street parties, something I have
never ever experienced. You may be
wondering why. Well I was brought up on
the Royalty and whatever my political bending, sometimes left, sometimes in the
middle, sometimes to the right, Royal pageantry is something that touches me
emotionally and makes me feel more British than I really am. I can’t help but admiring the Queen. She has been part of my life ever since I was
born. She came to the throne in 1952 and
is a part of a world that is constant although the world has changed so
much. I wouldn’t like to imagine the
world without her.
Missing the Diamond Jubilee celebrations in England this weekend |
Her first televised Christmas
broadcast was in 1957, the year I was born.
You can watch it here. Her voice
is so familiar, I can’t help but love it.
It is also a reminder of my childhood and life in Britain, after so many
years.
The Queen's first televised Christmas broadcast was in 1957, the year I was born. |
This week with
all the fuss of the Jubilee, her son Prince Charles, unveiled many private
photos and film, many taken by the Queen herself, as part of a tribute to her
in a special programme on the BBC. I
watched it here on You Tube and my favourite photo is one of Prince Charles and
his sister, also in 1957, with his sister and one of their corgi dogs, on a
beach in Norfolk. This photo and the
others in the programme suddenly made the Queen much more human. I read later that there is a huge PR effort
to restore the image of the monarchy. Apparently
the new Communications Director, who previously ran the PR for Manchester
United, is doing a great job with his team.
So maybe, this documentary was thanks to him.
A great pic of Prince Charles and Princess Anne in 1957 |
The Queen today,
60 years later, as seen yesterday at the Epsom Derby, was as poised as then but
probably much more relaxed.
The smiling Queen yesterday at the Epsom Derby |
These four
days of “jubilee” and pomp and celebration, as only the British can do in their
special way, are one of the things I miss most about the country I was brought
up in.
It is no consolation for me to know that today it is raining as it was on her Coronation Day, but also no surprise to find the British online press are using the pun ”Long to rain over us” in their coverage of the event today!
One of the most spectacular photos I have seen of the Diamond Jubilee . Buckingham Palace floodlit with the Union Jack, what a sight! |
It is no consolation for me to know that today it is raining as it was on her Coronation Day, but also no surprise to find the British online press are using the pun ”Long to rain over us” in their coverage of the event today!
With these thoughts
and some nostalgia, it is time to leave you and prepare lunch as today is
Ivanka’s day off.
A happy
Diamond Jubilee to all my English friends, at home and abroad and all the best to
all of you until next time.
Masha
Dear Marsha,
ReplyDeleteI came across your great blog when I did a google search for Inter Rail (following a Radio 3 programme about IR travel in the 1970's). I loved the photo of you in Copenhagen but couldn't resist haveing a go at restoring to its proper colour and exposure.
If you would like me to send you the restored picture you can contact me at garylafferty@blueyonder.co.uk
PS I did interRail in 1978.